72 Challenger Is Back

[erat340]

What is the story on that caliper anti rattle spring bar? how is it exactly mounted and why?

[71vert340]

It came with the caliper and  is shown in the FSM. I installed it, since it was included, on the driver's side first. I have it just sitting on top on the passenger side but will install it tomorrow. Drawing shows how it installs over the pins.
 Terry W.

[71vert340]

Here is the driver's side showing the anti-rattle spring installed.
Terry W.

[erat340]

Thank you. I have a rh inner pad rattling and have tried that clip but it did not help.

[71vert340]

I'm thinking if the part labeled as the positioner is loose, then there may be rattling also. I have to check as mine on the drivers side appear loose.
Terry W.

[71vert340]

I'm working on the engine wiring harness and dash wiring harness now. The engine wiring harness that came with the car had several sections of the harness looped back and forth tie wrapped to itself to take up excess wiring. I laid it out and it's the wiring going to the distributor and to the coil. It looks like it is for a big block engine instead of the small block the car came with. Okay, not a problem. Probably replaced at some time. I am using the FSM and need to get an Ignition Control Module. I would prefer to stay with the stock ignition system. Only the 4 pin module is listed as available for Challenger, on line, unless I order the 5 pin 1972-74 Dodge M300 module. The 1972 FSM shows the car should have the 5 pin module. Why would every chart list the 4 pin module as stock? I've included the FSM drawing photo. What have some of you found with the stock system?
Terry W.

[71vert340]

 After doing more research on this, I found out that I use the 4 blade ballast resistor with the 5 pin Ignition Control Module and use the 2 blade ballast resistor with the 4 pin Ignition Control Module. Either will work as long as I use the correct ballast resistor.
 Terry W.

[71vert340]

Started work on the dash harness. I had to replace the engine side of the bulkhead connection box. It took about 45 minutes for me to change all the wires over. I cleaned each one and checked for corrosion. I have installed the black and red wires to do the alternator bypass and will not run it through the bulkhead connection box. For now, I connected both ammeter wires together on one ammeter post and will be installing a voltmeter gauge in the blank spot on the standard instrument cluster. The plastic on the connection box had too much damage for me to reuse. I'm checking all wires with a multimeter(ohms). I'm checking all bulb sockets for corrosion. I was surprised this harness is not all hacked up like most of the originals are. I only found one plug missing and it went to the parking brake pedal. I replaced it.  A few photos to show.
Terry W.

[dodj]

Thank you. I have a rh inner pad rattling and have tried that clip but it did not help.

The anti rattle spring only affects the outboard pad. For the inner pad try applying hi temp silicone brake grease to the face of the caliper piston to reduce rattle