72 Challenger Is Back

[71vert340]

 Inner Fender hinge area repair is done. I spot welded the nut plates to the repaired inner fenders and drilled a bolts hole in each of the plate corners to bolt through with a 5/16" bolt. I should not experience any more problems.  Here's a few photos of the rusted- out pieces and the repair. The friend who sold me the car stopped by today and was a little sad he let the car go but was glad to see the progress on repairs. He knew the car deserved to be fixed up and he couldn't do it. So, all is good.
Terry W.

[71vert340]

 I ordered the carpet, headliner, window sweeps, door, trunk and window seals, and a few other items. I had the heater box rebuild kit and firewall gasket set already on my parts shelves. So far, I'm into the car about $1100. I'm going to use the new carpet to replace the carpet in my convertible and use that carpet in this 72. The convertible carpet is in good shape and I've been meaning to order new carpet for the convertible anyway. I'm going to buy a rebuilt 360 with aluminum heads and a mild cam along with the rebuilt auto 727 trans for another $3k from the friend who sold me the car. We'll see how the work progresses.
Terry W.

[71vert340]

 I cut out the last of the car's rust from the rear driver's side rear quarter panel. It's about a 1"x2" piece. Here's a couple of photos of it.

[71vert340]

 After removing that piece, I found what caused the rust. A small piece of gravel and a nut were behind the piece along with a bunch of dirt and crud. All cleaned out now. here's a couple of photos that show the finds and you can now see the trunk extension drop off which is really in good shape. I'm wondering if there's something I can use to coat the metal now that it is open. I have a body stud welder that I'll weld a stud in the middle of the patch piece of metal to hold it in place while I tack weld it in.
Terry W.

[YellowThumper]

After removing that piece, I found what caused the rust. A small piece of gravel and a nut were behind the piece along with a bunch of dirt and crud. All cleaned out now. here's a couple of photos that show the finds and you can now see the trunk extension drop off which is really in good shape. I'm wondering if there's something I can use to coat the metal now that it is open. I have a body stud welder that I'll weld a stud in the middle of the patch piece of metal to hold it in place while I tack weld it in.
Terry W.

Spray on rust converter that turns to primer.

[Wayne]

What a great project, super clean car to start with!

[71vert340]

 Test fit of a pair of 70-71 front fenders to the body today. No shims at this point. All is good. I'll set the hood on and see if everything is straight and
  then I'll remove the front clip and continue with the body work. I needed to know that the frame straightened on the driver's side allows for good panel alignment.
  Terry W.

[71vert340]

  An update: I finished cleaning out the trunk drop-off voids. I pulled out a 3/8" socket hinge handle, a pocket knife, gravel bottle cap and some screws, a lug nut, etc. I finished rebuilding the heater box and am working on the dash wiring harness. I noticed a melted female plug on the bulkhead connector. See photo 1. My ohmeter probe is inserted into the female plug. I split the connector and found to wires melted together - the ammeter wiring for the dash - see photos. I've never been crazy about the ammeters in our cars as the entire electrical load goes through the ammeter. There's an ammeter bypass drawing over on the B-body site that is highly recommended. All the other wires in this harness check out great . I have several harnesses giving me extra bulkhead connectors. I have the tool allowing me to remove wires from the plastic connector. What are others doing here to work around this ammeter fire hazard? I want to do something in my 71 convertible and the 71 hardtop to eliminate this hazard. Some put in voltmeters. Some bypass this bulkhead connector completely with the ammeter wires. I can untape and replace these two wires but I can still have the hazard. Suggestions. I'm glad I check the harnesses in the cars before installing them. Thanks for your suggestions.
Terry W.

[anlauto]

Buy new M&H wiring harnesses

[71vert340]

 Yes, I could spend almost $800 for a new wiring harness but that still doesn't help me eliminate the alternator wiring going through the bulkhead connector to ammeter and then to the ignition switch. This can be a fire hazard in the older Mopars as even a dirty connection can cause heating and start a fire under the dash due to the high amps going through the ammeter bulkhead box to the ammeter connections. I really think the best way is to eliminate the ammeter and install a voltmeter instead. I have seen several of these wires melted in harnesses, especially as loads are added with higher output alternators. Since this isn't a restoration but rather an update to the electrical, if anything, I'd go to a Painless wiring system.
Terry W.

[anlauto]

There's nothing "painless" about a Painless Wiring System 

[71vert340]

True it's not Painless but looks clean if done properly. I think what I'll do is run new red and black wiring from engine compartment through a bulkhead grommet going around the white plastic bulkhead connector. I'll have a new plug for those two wires under the dash supplying the steering column etc. I may or may not use the ammeter but I'll test it in case I change my mind. My new wires will be fused either with a fusible link or a new style fuse. I'll replace this melted bulkhead connector with one in good shape. We'll see how it goes. I have the red and black wires out of the bulkhead connector now.
Terry W.

[71vert340]

 I think I'm done with the welding on this car. I welded studs on the dents in the passenger side door and in the Passenger side rear quarter panel. It looked like a porcupine with its quills raised. Pulled out the dents as far as I could.  All good. Now for some filler. Too bad the quality control for body panel alignment back when these cars were built was so poor. I have owned a few Chevrolets starting in 1969. I've owned a Pontiac, several Fords, 3 Datsuns, several Broncos, Blazers, and trucks. I've owned 9 e-bodies starting with my 71 Challenger in 1972. My parents had a 70 Duster then which I drove. I must admit, Mopar has the worst bodies back in the 70s. I remember a guy in 1983 bringing a Challenger over to my house to ask me how to align the doors, fenders and hood. The car was untouched from when built. He was upset with how the gaps with the door and hood to fenders were. I told him how to align the body panels but not to get his hopes up as Mopars were known to have great drive trains but the bodies were POS. The other brands were better. Working on this car brings it all back. 
Terry W.

[71vert340]

I stare at this photo of me in 1972. I had my Impala with a 283 auto. My 71 Challenger behind it with the taillights of my parents Duster on the right and my 36 Chevrolet Standard in the background on the right under the tarp. I enjoyed driving all of them. I had the fenders on the 36 Chev unbolted and just sitting on the tires to get the cracks in the fenders welded up.

Terry W.

[71vert340]

Update on my project. I'm progressing slowly. I keep getting back boxes of parts I gave to the owner before me to help him fix this car up. I decided today to hang the 70 valance, grille and headlight bezels to see what brackets I'm missing. So far, it's fairly complete. The grille I selected from the 3 grilles I have turned out to be missing mounting tabs. Checked other 2 grilles and they are complete.  This one will be used for parts. I must admit it looks like a Challenger now compared to when I got it here in October. Also, I'm into it about $4700 including the rebuilt engine and 727 transmission. I'm not including the $750 I'm into it for a 4 speed transmission, pedals and shifting rods if I go that route.
Terry W.