A few weeks ago I picked up my dream car. Its an 1970 Cuda, 383 4 spd car. The car has a near perfect build sheet. Engine and transmission match. The car was in FL and last plated in 1976. The car has 49k original miles. Its needs work, but I love it and l can't believe the shape the body is. Figured I would start a thread showing the projects I do on the car.
I also just started a FB page for the car, Youtube and Instagram. If anyone wants to follow I am Backyard Hotrods.
Here are a few pictures the day I brought it home.
https://www.instagram.com/backyard_hotrods/
[facebook]https://www.facebook.com/Backyard-Hot-Rods-488123511930725/[/facebook]
Congrats. Looks like a really solid car! I bought a '70 Cuda with a 383 and 4-speed new in Oct 1969 for $4200 OTD. However, it was triple black and did have AC and power brakes. Kept it 4 years and then sold it like an idiot. Tried to find it years later but never could. Keep us posted on your progress.
Thanks usraptor!
The past week I have been doing what I can to bring the paint back to life. Pretty happy considering what I started with.
Sweet Cuda !
I really liked the videos .
Thanks !
Really cool videos. That blue tape really exposed your car. At first I was like that car looks pretty good, then after that tap came off you could tell it was in need of some love. IS THAT A RIVER IN YOUR BACK YARD you lucky man?
Quote from: nsmall on May 19, 2019, 10:11:19 PM
Really cool videos. That blue tape really exposed your car. At first I was like that car looks pretty good, then after that tap came off you could tell it was in need of some love. IS THAT A RIVER IN YOUR BACK YARD you lucky man?
Its still a 10 footer lol but its so much better. Thank You!
It is a creek technically. We just moved here 2 years ago....been a goal to find a property on this creek for decades. I like to trout fish and this is Heaven for me and the family. Only thing it didn't have is a big garage. There is room to add a detached down the road. But we'll see.
Quote from: Cuda Cody on May 19, 2019, 11:12:08 PM
Love your passion @Wayne (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/wayne_4348) :clapping: Fantastic find!!!! Great videos too. :bravo:
Thanks Cody, I appreciate it!
That's a great find. Nice red on red. Pretty scarce.
Addressing the major mechanical issues that I'm aware off. The first is the trans which would make noise in 3rd gear & the TOB was also very noisy. So I jumped right in this past week I have been working on pulling the trans. It came out with no issues. This is actually my first four speed car. The clutch adjusting rod/linkage does not look right to me. I dropped the trans off locally to have it rebuilt. They should be calling me anytime with an update once they crack it open.
Next is the motor. The engine had a ticking noise which I didn't think was exhaust related. I pulled the valve covers...hoping it was a collapsed lifter or a bent pushrod. Unfortunately it was neither of those and more serious. I can't believe this held together actually. The engine has 6 cracked valve spring retainers...from what I can see. And some of them are hitting the rockers!! After I dropped the trans off I went to a local engine builder and they thought these were aluminum retainers from back in the day. Makes perfect sense to me. Has anybody seen anything like this before?
So we talked engine options. Pretty sure I am going to pull the matching # 383 and put in the corner for now. I think I will build a low deck stroker. We are discussing options. They have a 400 block ready to go....quite tempting. I want a really strong pump gas motor and don't want risking the matching #'s motor. Two of my close friends have blown up there matching #'s motor...which would really suck.
Below are some photos and I made another video. You can hear the TOB and see the valve spring retainer issues. Next plan of action is to get the motor out and clean up the engine bay. Waiting on my friend to drop off his hoist so I can get it out. But its giving me time to get everything organized and strip out the engine bay of everything.
https://youtu.be/K7dGgjzO0Hk
Whoa: Really good save on the engine. 400 strokers are great, it's either the original block or it isn't so there is no use putting a different 383 in there, might as well do the 400 stroker. I would keep it a low deck and for your car I would be willing to lose performance to go with a stock appearing intake manifold and a camshaft to work with exhaust manifolds. Not my car though of course.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 24, 2019, 07:07:10 AM
Whoa: Really good save on the engine. 400 strokers are great, it's either the original block or it isn't so there is no use putting a different 383 in there, might as well do the 400 stroker. I would keep it a low deck and for your car I would be willing to lose performance to go with a stock appearing intake manifold and a camshaft to work with exhaust manifolds. Not my car though of course.
Yeah, that could of gone south in a hurry! I do plan to run headers and a single plane. It doesn't matter to me if it doesn't look bone stock / original. But as long as I can go that direction down the road if I like.
The orignal owner planned to race the car, but never got to it. He had started some projects but luckily we saved it before he went all out with it. The car had a 9", rolled the quarter panel lips, and crude frame connectors that partially went through the floor and mini tubs :('. The guy I bought it from put it back to stock. So it has been worked on unfortunately. But i am ok with it its going to be driven and enjoyed.
I just pulled my matching nos. 440 and had my engine builder build me a different 440 block. Good piece of mind knowing the matching No. engine is safe on an engine stand where it isn't going to get blown up.
Be careful if this keeps up you will find yourself tearing the Cuda completely down.
:haha:
Quote from: HP_Cuda on May 24, 2019, 08:37:32 AM
Be careful if this keeps up you will find yourself tearing the Cuda completely down.
:haha:
:) Oh man that's how it starts right lol! No when to say when :ohyeah:
Nice car.
Finally had a little time to work on the car today. Decided to tackle the heater core...it was leaking when I picked it up so we bypassed it. First time I have been inside a heater box. I got the heater box out without much issue. I already picked up a heater core from Roseville Moparts. They have been great to deal with. The box itself isn't too bad. It was obviously out before as one of the top bolt holes was cracked. Two of the clips were pretty rusty and chewed up the box a little. Will have to try and repair that. The doors inside had a strangle film on this not sure if its replaceable or what the best option there is. Any thoughts?
The blower motor plate had a broken stud. So I wanted to get that out and either rebuild or replace the blower motor while its out.
Unfortunately the wheel/cage on the blower motor cracked when I was working it off. Couldn't believe how seized up it was on the shaft. So I will have to try and find a replacement.
I just did some quick searches and seems like classic and year one don't have the parts I need. Does anyone have any leads on the following:
1. Blower motor plate
2. Blower motor cage
3. Rebuild service or replacement for the blower.
Detroit Muscle Technologies sells a complete rebuild kit for all the foam seals etc...
NOBODY sells a correct replacement motor, but guys like Stephan Fournier do an excellent job of restoring them correctly.
The Blower cage wheel will have to be source used, nobody makes a new one.
Thanks for the info Alan much appreciated! :bigthumb:
Check with Bill Meerholz for a restored blower motor. When you look for a replacement blower motor plate, get one with studs that are not pointed at the ends. That would be correct for your application.
Thanks for the info! Found his website. Will be giving him a call :bigthumb:
The doors inside usually have a thin foam film on them as insulation , the foam breaks down leaving the tape film on the doors , not sure where to find replacement foam for the doors .
www.MrHeaterbox.com is your source for that blower wheel."Brian" also does full restorations on Mopar and AMC heaterboxes only
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on June 07, 2019, 09:47:30 PM
The doors inside usually have a thin foam film on them as insulation , the foam breaks down leaving the tape film on the doors , not sure where to find replacement foam for the doors .
Ahhh that makes sense. Thanks for explaining.
I reached out to Bill @ BMCuda and he has been a huge help and I should be getting some parts from him this week to address the heater box and wipers.
Until then I took the hood of in preparation for pulling the motor and have been working on the underside of the hood. The plan is to paint the engine bay and the underside of the hood. The hood had black paint over the factory red. It was a mess and took a lot of time to strip the black off. Used laquer thinner with rags and then scotch brite pads
Now that is done I am going to start sanding the rusty areas and figure out the best way to prep those areas before priming. Blasting is out of the question. So we'll see what I end up doing. Not entirely sure yet.
Here are a few pictures of the hood. You can see in the first picture what I started with and where I ended up at now.
Great job cleaning the hood :twothumbsup: For what it's worth though, that's not the original hood to the car, it's been replaced at some point. :alan2cents:
Quote from: anlauto on June 17, 2019, 06:34:41 AM
Great job cleaning the hood :twothumbsup: For what it's worth though, that's not the original hood to the car, it's been replaced at some point. :alan2cents:
thanks sir! Still waiting on my fingers to recover from swimming in thinner lol
Well, how about that then! I appreciate the input. How can you tell?
It has dips called crush zones near the front edge of the hood. When the car was in a head on the later hoods with these crush zones would buckle up rather than stay straight and be shoved back through the windshield. I would fill them in with sheetmetal and use the hood. Don't forget to wipe it a few times with wax and grease remover.
Correct me if i am wrong, mid year or so they started using the crumple zones from what i understand. if that is the case, a later later production car could have them correct. :alan2cents:
Awsome find!
Look forward to watching your progress.
It would have to be pretty darn late. I've seen 70 hoods on 71's but never the other way around. :alan2cents:
Quote from: YellowThumper on June 17, 2019, 08:55:20 AM
Awsome find!
Look forward to watching your progress.
Thanks!
Very interesting info. My scheduled build date was Feb 16 FYI.
Are the crumple zones at the arrow locations I marked up?
Yes those are them...Not something to worry about, you're not doing an OE Gold concourse restoration and it's something 98% of the people wouldn't notice. :alan2cents:
I've seen the crush-zone "bulge" 'cuda hoods as early as April 1970
I've seen the crush-zone "bulge" Challenger hoods as early as June 1970
I have not seen a non-crush-zone "bulge" hood on a '71 e-body (non-crush-zone SHAKER hoods are common during 1971 'cuda production)
Quote from: 6bblgt on June 17, 2019, 10:59:26 AM
I've seen the crush-zone "bulge" 'cuda hoods as early as April 1970
I've seen the crush-zone "bulge" Challenger hoods as early as June 1970
I have not seen a non-crush-zone "bulge" hood on a '71 e-body (non-crush-zone SHAKER hoods are common during 1971 'cuda production)
I stand corrected thanks to Dan....I just went through my pictures and it was a 71 Shaker hood car that I had restored with a 70 hood.
However I think Feb 70 is still pretty early. :alan2cents: I would just not worry about it, sorry I brought it up.
Quote from: anlauto on June 17, 2019, 11:07:18 AM
Quote from: 6bblgt on June 17, 2019, 10:59:26 AM
I've seen the crush-zone "bulge" 'cuda hoods as early as April 1970
I've seen the crush-zone "bulge" Challenger hoods as early as June 1970
I have not seen a non-crush-zone "bulge" hood on a '71 e-body (non-crush-zone SHAKER hoods are common during 1971 'cuda production)
I stand corrected thanks to Dan....I just went through my pictures and it was a 71 Shaker hood car that I had restored with a 70 hood.
However I think Feb 70 is still pretty early. :alan2cents: I would just not worry about it, sorry I brought it up.
No apology needed! I am glad you brought it up and created a good conversation....mostly with people with much more knowledge than me on the matter :)
You are right, either way I am not going to worry about it. I am not doing an all original restoration. I am curious though if it is the original hood. But, only curious.
the lack of paint on the inner fenders is curious also, does it look like they've been worked on or replaced?
do you have a picture of the underside of the hood - forward left corner :takealook:
Quote from: 6bblgt on June 17, 2019, 11:21:24 AM
the lack of paint on the inner fenders is curious also, does it look like they've been worked on or replaced?
do you have a picture of the underside of the hood - forward left corner :takealook:
I don't have a good picture of it but I can take one later today and upload it. I have a minute video I uploaded to my instagram account that might show what your looking for.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Byx3vgylkz1/?hl=en
Me and my friend were looking over it really close the other day....the welds on the inner fenders appear to be stock. Our only thought is for whatever reason the original owner stripped the original paint off but I have no idea why. The car was going to be raced but never got there. The car had some crude inner wheel tubs put in, weld in sub frame connectors and the rear frame rails were notched. The guy I bought the car from put it all back to stock. So its not a car that has never been touched, but is perfect for me.
the video doesn't catch what I'm looking for ..... AFAIK there are 3 different "bulge" 'cuda hoods
5/16" bolts & NO "crush-zones" (early-mid 1970 model year)
5/16" bolts & "crush-zones" (late 1970 & very early 1971 model year)
3/8" bolts & "crush-zones" & 3 reliefs for the 1971 "PLYMOUTH" emblem
here's a '70 hood & I marked the approximate location of the 3 reliefs used for the "PLYMOUTH" emblem that started in 1971
do you have a broadcast sheet pic that you can share publicly or privately? email to dhead68@hotmail.com
I took a couple pictures of the front corner. I can email you the build sheet.
I finally finished prepping the hood. Sanded it down with 250 grit by hand. The plan is to shoot some primer later this week.
I also got all my parts from Bill @ BMCuda.com He was really helpfull. New wiper motor, blower motor, blower wheel and blower plate and 3 speed arm. I also ordered a gasket set from Detroit Muscle Technologies and that should be here tomorrow. I plan to start putting the heater box back together.
Next will be to get the fenders off so I can focus on the engine bay.
Here is the Eastwood Etch I used on a couple areas of the hood and then mostly on the hardware for the heater box. It worked good. Let the product sit for 30 minutes then wipe it off. Then a couple rounds of wax and grease remover and it was ready to prime and paint.
Phase 1 of the paint project was to fix the poor bodywork on the door and fender where the paint lifted and was rattle caned. I just couldn't stand looking at that area. Phase 2 will be the engine bay. i finally got the bodywork straightened out and block sanded. Then on Sunday my friend Trent came over to lay down some color for me. I am very happy with how it came out. I think it will blend in perfectly with the theme of the car.
:1place:
That's a years progress for some and then they never bolt it together again.
Thanks Sheldon, I really want to drive the car this year before winter hits. I have a bunch of little stuff I will need to do once the paint is done...not counting putting it all back together lol.
Really to trying to bust out it out quick while not skimping in any area. I want to have some time to sort things out after its all back together and not rush once the motor is done. Although I don't have a date for the motor yet.
Summer is short & life is short too , Get her done & drive it !! :wrenching:
We just got back from a much needed weeks vacation yesterday. Got out on the garage for a bit today. I'm really running out of room in the garage. I ended up taking the fenders off a moving them to the basement. Thankfully no scratches! Took off the radiator support and will be ready to prep in the engine bay.
Next I need to get the steering box out.
My goal is to primer it next weekend. We'll see.
Got the steering box out today. Trying to get the drag link free from the pitman arm was less than fun on this car lol. Spent some time cleaning up the k frame. My question is... I have never seen a k frame this color. It has an OE looking stamp on it. I've always seen them painted black. Has anyone seen one this color? I can't believe it's not original but you never know!
Thanks!
They're usually black. It looks like it has a part # stenciled on it, possibly it was bought over the counter to replace the original, that is some funky welding ahead of the drivers side engine bracket too.
I don't see the coin, stamped washer on the front left corner. my not be original. :alan2cents:
I'm with Sheldon....That K frame has been replaced at one time. :alan2cents:
Thanks for the input fella's! :bigthumb:
Was thinking I might leave it if it was originally that color from the factory. That settles it, I am going to prep it and paint it as well. So much grease.... :('
Been jamming on the cuda this week getting the engine bay prepped. Had a bunch of small parts media blasted. They are on the rack. Made a quick spraying rack for about $15. The wifey was wondering where her aluminum foil went. :D Got it primed today. I'm pumped to reach this big milestone! I feel like the not so fun work is behind me now. Color next and soon hopefully!
Looking for a little help today. In regards to my hood hinges bolting to the fenders. The forward mounting hole had a bolt, washer and nut on both sides and they were not the same socket size as the rearward bolts. This can't be right? Anyone have a picture or a link to what should be there? Hoping there is an available replacement :(
Looked online to no avail.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Yup: Supposed to be a caged nut there.
Yea it's a large thick metal plate that floats inside those two tabs and has a 5/16-18 threaded hole to match the other two bolts.
Kool, thanks for the help fellas! :ohyeah:
That will be easy to fab up.
Made a couple of them yesterday. Fit like a glove. :)
WOW...that looks incredible :worship:
Very nice job. This car is in good hands.
Fab skills help immensely with these projects. :bigthumb:
I second that. Great fabrication skills! :clapping: :worship:
Thanks so much for the kind words! I definitely appreciate it :bigthumb:
Decided to spray the car myself....the hood and engine bay were a challenge for me. I don't have a lot of experience spraying color. Mostly small pieces. It came out alright, a little dry in some spots. The front valence and header panel came out the best by far as I didn't have all the nooks and crannies to paint around.
Looks great
Next step, black out the front of the radiator support and vent cowl. looks good, I always thought red was a nice color on a barracuda! :perfect10:
Quote from: JS29 on August 12, 2019, 01:32:51 PM
Next step, black out the front of the radiator support and vent cowl. looks good, I always thought red was a nice color on a barracuda! :perfect10:
That's what I'm researching now. What exactly gets blacked out.
I have some leftover chassis black I used on the k frame, would that work or is there a specific finish to use?
I used semi gloss on the blackout.
SEM trim black works good for the blackout
Quote from: 73440 on August 12, 2019, 06:57:45 PM
SEM trim black works good for the blackout
:iagree: 100% I think I would lightly scuff it before app-ling it.
Prepped and painted the cowl while the fenders are still off. Came out alright. Hoping to have some time today or tomorrow to put the fenders on. Will black out the front once the front end is on I'm thinking
Went to order a new brake lines over the weekend and everyone seemed to be out. Going to try calling a few stores today see what availability is.
It never ceases to amaze me the quality of work the average enthusiast is doing at home today, good job. :bigthumb:
:1place: :bigthumb:
I did get the passenger fender on (only partially aligned) so I could do some wet sanding and a little buffing. Going to wait and put the driver side fender on once I am done with the brakes, wipers and steering.
Right now I am getting the wipers all together to hopefully install this weekend. Needed a couple more clips.
I had some time over the weekend to make a video showing the different stages of the painting process I went through.
WOW ! looking pretty SWEET .
It takes a lot of time , but you will love it when it's all done.
Good job !
You make awesome videos. Nice work!!!
Your car is looking really nice! I liked the video, especially seeing the results you have achieved by painting outside without a booth!
Quote from: larry4406 on August 29, 2019, 02:36:36 AM
Your car is looking really nice! I liked the video, especially seeing the results you have achieved by painting outside without a booth!
Quote from: nsmall on August 28, 2019, 08:55:43 PM
You make awesome videos. Nice work!!!
Quote from: gaddied on August 28, 2019, 02:38:25 PM
WOW ! looking pretty SWEET .
It takes a lot of time , but you will love it when it's all done.
Good job !
Thank you I really appreciate! I really want to drive this thing and put some miles on it. I hasn't been easy to do the videos in the sense that you put yourself out there for everyone to see and possibly judge. I'm no expert by any means.
Dropped the drums off to get turned. Guy behind the counter said "Are those from a 1 ton?" I said nope, Plymouth Cuda. Gave me a chuckle lol. Picked them up today and then spent some time cleaning them up and sprayed them with Eastwood cast iron gray.
Then as I was leaving they started to demolish this old Rite Aid next door . These guys were sketchy to say the least. I kind of felt bad fir this camaro that was parked way to close. They should of had much more of the lot taped off.
Here is a link to my Instagram post with a video of it
https://www.instagram.com/p/B1zcx_Ll8ti/?igshid=wscs0gwnngwy
Definitely not the proper demo procedure, they were only worried about filming it as it almost toppled over on them.
I had to pause on finishing the brakes as I needed to replace the rear axle seals....then I decided to pull the center section to change the fluid...then I decided might as well put the gear I want and ditch the 3.23. So I dropped it off to the local Ring and Pinion Shop on Monday and picked it up today/ Friday. It needed bearings and had to put a new yoke on it and went for 3.73's. I think they will be perfect for my setup.
Also drilled and tapped the housing so i could install a drain plug. Going to put the axles in tomorrow, fill it up with fluid and finally finish the rear brakes and bleed the system.
Drain plug is a great idea ! :twothumbsup:
The drain plug on the differential housing and on the transmission pan should have been done at the factory's. Engineers and bean counter's don't work on them, so why bother! :alan2cents:
Quote from: JS29 on September 14, 2019, 07:01:48 AM
The drain plug on the differential housing and on the transmission pan should have been done at the factory's. Engineers and bean counter's don't work on them, so why bother! :alan2cents:
Thanks Alan! I'm glad he told me about it and gave me a plug! Yeah I'm surprised the dealer didn't as it would make servicing so much easier
Tried to finish the brakes but the rear shoes I had were 11 x 3 , I gave 11x 2.5". Called the local auto parts store said they have them...they were 10 x 2.5. Ugh. I found the part # I needed in one of the old parts catalogs they had. We'll try again tomorrow!
I have been waiting for the Eastwood zinc phosphate to come back in stock...and finally was able to try it on the hood small bits. Real happy with the results for little money speunt. Finished them off with matte clear. I'm real happy with it
Here...I fixed it for you.....The latches and hook look absolutely amazing, but the loop on the hood should be body colour....of course so the paint can chip the first time you close the hood :smile:
Ughhh :headbang: lol. Thanks Alan, at least that will be the easiest of the bunch to redo.
It won't matter if you leave it the way it is....it likely won't be prone to chipping that way....I've seen more then one restored car with this piece not painted body colour. :alan2cents:
Picked up the proper rear shoes on Monday and got them on. Brakes are finally done. Went with in-line tubes stainless hard lines and the braided flex lines.
Had a voltage regulator from Roseville but it had this sticker with the white letters. Wasn't really feeling it. Saw Mancini had one labeled oe with yellow paint. It came yesterday with a sticker that was upside down....lm going them a call. Would like one without a sticker.
Picked up the engine bits I had powder coated this week. Then dropped them off at the engine builder/machine shop.
Nothing like heading down to the engine builder and seeing all the projects they have and seeing your engine you have dreamed off coming to life. I'm using Best Machine as they are local to me and have a reputation second to none. Pete and Chuck have been great. They are getting real close to making some noise.
The next 3-4 weeks should see the car come around and wrapping up many projects.
Here's some latest engine shots. My motor before I had the intake coated...man am I getting excited!
Oooooh: Bunches of Hemi blocks!
Had a productive weekend and was able to start putting the front end back on the car. Nice to see it look like a car again and not the never ending project of doom.
Monday I blacked out the front end.
Nice job on the black out :bigthumb:
Quote from: Wayne on September 24, 2019, 05:20:42 AM
Nice to see it look like a car again and not the never ending project of doom.
Never ending project of doom? Didn't you buy this car about 6 months ago? Sure it probably sucks that you weren't driving the thing this summer, but scope creep is to be expected when working on old cars. Personally, I'm pretty amazed by the progress you've made. Especially since it looks like you've got at least one young kid at home. :worship: Looks great and you'll be enjoying the fruits of your labor soon enough. :burnout:
Quote from: DeathProofCuda on September 24, 2019, 09:46:43 AM
Quote from: Wayne on September 24, 2019, 05:20:42 AM
Nice to see it look like a car again and not the never ending project of doom.
Never ending project of doom? Didn't you buy this car about 6 months ago? Sure it probably sucks that you weren't driving the thing this summer, but scope creep is to be expected when working on old cars. Personally, I'm pretty amazed by the progress you've made. Especially since it looks like you've got at least one young kid at home. :worship: Looks great and you'll be enjoying the fruits of your labor soon enough. :burnout:
Its just seems everything system I work on needs complete overhaul and or was missing the correct parts (such as wipers) as well as incorrect or missing hardware. Now I'm feeling the pressure to get this car on the road (without compromising anything I do) before winter hits us here in MI.
I appreciate the kind words/encouragement. Yes I bought it late spring, with one child at home. Have had to get creative with time spent in the garage. I can't wait to drive it but even now it seems so far off lol.
Sorry, I just thought the "never ending project of doom" thing was funny. I also have a 70 Cuda 383 4-speed car that I've owned for 30+ years now and mine doesn't look half as good as yours. Talk about a never ending project... But for me, the never ending project is a lot of the appeal. :wrenching:
Keep up the great work! :bradsthumb:
Quote from: DeathProofCuda on September 24, 2019, 12:41:27 PM
Sorry, I just thought the "never ending project of doom" thing was funny. I also have a 70 Cuda 383 4-speed car that I've owned for 30+ years now and mine doesn't look half as good as yours. Talk about a never ending project... But for me, the never ending project is a lot of the appeal. :wrenching:
Keep up the great work! :bradsthumb:
No need to apologize...things could be a lot worse :bigthumb: Have any pictures of your Cuda on here?
I also did find comment humorous.
Mine is another 30 year "project of doom".
Regardless of duration there is always "when will this end" thoughts.
Quote from: YellowThumper on September 25, 2019, 10:15:34 AM
I also did find comment humorous.
Mine is another 30 year "project of doom".
Regardless of duration there is always "when will this end" thoughts.
thats a good looking Chally!
I guess in the end, these cars are never done
Getting ready to jump into the fuel system next....oh boy!
the fuel system isn't bad to do, but can be expensive! :wrenching:
I ordered a stainless tank, mat, straps, rubber seals, and a new fuel pump assembly. Should be here by the weekend. I drained the tank last night and took the rear valence off. That's the weekend project. Plus more if things go well.
New blue Monroe shocks came today and I scotch brited those and sprayed them black.
Got another update from Best Machine today. They are getting close! Closer than me lol. Might be lightning the candles next week on the 471!
I have really enjoyed watching you fly through this car. Once I saw the pics of you tearing the car down, I was like uh oh, hes heading sideways fast. But you are so passionate based on your videos I have seen and I am more than certain you will finish, whether that before snow falls, well :notsure: Either way, you can just take a step back and enjoy the winter and getting it right the first time.
Quote from: nsmall on September 26, 2019, 10:00:52 PM
I have really enjoyed watching you fly through this car. Once I saw the pics of you tearing the car down, I was like uh oh, hes heading sideways fast. But you are so passionate based on your videos I have seen and I am more than certain you will finish, whether that before snow falls, well :notsure: Either way, you can just take a step back and enjoy the winter and getting it right the first time.
Thanks I appreciate it! Weather is definitely turning. Thus weekend definitely felt like fall. But I think I am in good pace. We'll see.
New stainless tank straps, filler neck and cap with an electric in tank pump. Still have some plumb and wire it.
Had been avoiding the monster in the corner (heater box) assembled it and thought I was going to be able to install it but the defroster cable was kinked and needs to be replaced. Luckily they are reproduced. Also noticed the car doesn't have the fresh air cables. Will order those too.
Then had my helper build the engine stand. Said "it was the best day ever!" Wait till we go for a ride in it!
Pretty sure I've found why my door keys don't unlock the doors. A rod was off and not connected to the key tumbler. Been looking online and only see the whole tumbler. Anyone know of or have the clip on the back of the door tumbler? First pit is my handle and 2nd is what I believe I need.
I just ordered a set of door cylinders from Roseville. Easiest fix I think
Or...
If the old locks are good. You could try and just switch the lever and snap ring over to old.
Quote from: JS29 on October 01, 2019, 06:52:05 AM
@Wayne (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/wayne_4348) You could send your new locks to a lock smith and have them keyed to match your ignition key. :alan2cents:
Quote from: YellowThumper on October 01, 2019, 07:50:10 AM
Or...
If the old locks are good. You could try and just switch the lever and snap ring over to old.
New cylinders came in yesterday from Roseville. I called every local locksmith (over a dozen) and none could do it.
I pulled off the driver side door panel and the clip was on the cylinder but the rod had had fallen out. Put the rod back in and it worked fine. The passenger side is the one that didn't have the clip on the back of the cylinder. So I took one off one of the new ones and swapped it over and it worked fine.
Short story is now I have proper :twothumbsup:functioning door locks!
Although having to lock the doors with the key after it closes i'm sure will become frustrating....maybe another day & time
It's actually not a big deal, You get used to it.
How often do you lock your car ?
Quote from: anlauto on October 03, 2019, 07:28:32 AM
How often do you lock your car ?
So far .5 mile :-[ But... I plan to drive it alot when its done. I will deal with and it embrace the uniqueness that it is.
FWIW re-keying these locks are a simple task. Top cover will snap off and on. Inside are small round brass tumblers. 2 per each key touch point.
Years ago I raided many jy locks to disassemble for their tumblers. Put key in and find stack up that brings them up to flush with cylinder face and you are good to go.
You used to be able to purchase tumbler kits. I would expect that the correct diameter of brass bar could also be purchased for cutting to length as necessary.
Also.... you can omit a row or two or three if you dont have replacement tumblers. Key just gets increasingly less effective.
Your local Chrysler dealer should be able to accommodate you. :alan2cents:
Good tips on the cylinders! Didn't even think of taking them to a dealer
And the heater box is officially in! When your in Michigan you need heat! New defrost cable (with a picture of what you don't want one to look like!). I was finally able to get it installed tonight as the defrost cable just came in.
Car was missing the fresh air vent cables and those should be in soon.
This is the first car I've had with no passenger side mirror. It only took backing it into the garage once got me to realize that was going to have to change. Pretty sure I measured 5x before I drilled the holes :D.
Painted the grill and buckets Saturday. Took a while to get the hang of the black round discs. They were dropping everywhere at first. But we got it figured out late last night. First time I had the in there I didn't have the light harness in....luckily I only had 2 bolts in and not all of them.
I bought a new light harness and it has the connection for what I believe is the top of the fender turn signals which my car doesn't have. Anyone else run into this and what did you do with the unused connector on the harness? Tape it up or plug it?
Looking great :bigthumb:
The bullet connectors for the fender light can be left open , I would pack grease into them or you could push a male connector into plug .
Its looking like a real car again! Front end is all on now. Put the hockey stripe back on the door. The guy I bought the car from had a new set so I didn't have to buy those per se. The fresh air vent cables came in from RoaevilleMoparts and those are done now.
Next I want to work on the rocker moldings and start on the wiring harnesses in the engine bay.
The biggest tasks I have to get it ready to run is:
1. Install the under hood wiring harnesses.
2. Wire the fuel pump and run new lines.
3. I want to bypass the ammeter gauge (picked up a 90 amp alternator).
4. Install the new ignition box.
5. The big one...get the engine back
Your grille restoration came out really nice. :clapping: Great job. :bravo:
Quote from: usraptor on October 14, 2019, 05:31:09 PM
Your grille restoration came out really nice. :clapping: Great job. :bravo:
Thanks I am happy with it.
Lots of time prepping, taping, some light plastic repair on the bezels. The argent I got from RosevilleMOparts worked pretty well. I liked the color match but the metal/flake just wasn't as big as the oem. I think the only way could match the oem argent is to have something mixed up and sprayed through a large tip gun.
I agree the grill looks fantastic :drooling:
Is that the front bumper that was on the car ? I notice the jack slots ::)
Quote from: anlauto on October 15, 2019, 05:26:24 AM
I agree the grill looks fantastic :drooling:
Is that the front bumper that was on the car ? I notice the jack slots ::)
Thanks Alan!
Yes, that is the bumper the car came with. I can only assume from your response it should not have jack slots :( its too nice in my opinion to be the original.
If that is the case I will have to keep an eye out for one locally, but its not a big concern.
There's always something right.... :bricks:
Car is coming along great... :worship:
Quote from: anlauto on October 15, 2019, 06:01:10 AM
There's always something right.... :bricks:
Car is coming along great... :worship:
thanks again! I appreciate it. Yes there are plenty of those. I have a list of things mentally I know I wan't to fix but aren't pressing right now. But the positive is those I see as little projects and will be fun to do down the road and aren't holding anything up right now.
Decided to tackle the rocker moldings next. One is a repro. and one is original. Decided to paint them both and needed to do a small repair on the orignal. The repro's have a lot of texture molded into them vs. the original one I had. Took about an hour to mask off each one. Wasn't too bad...i have had much less enjoyable projects thats for sure. I am pretty happy with them.
Also made another video. This video is a little different. I wanted to show more detail and go over all the steps I did. Let me know what you think if you watch it.
I remember doing that once, even after I knew the factory supplier just did it by gun angle.
That would look way better then the factory ever did :twothumbsup:
Did the same with my OEM gills. Remember masking off each of those little gills. Like you said, lots of worse jobs but still time consuming and they came out nice. I get several comments at car shows asking me if those were original factory equipment.
Thanks guys I appreciate it!
I am going to run a MSD ignition and distributor in the car but didn't want' to mount it in the engine compartment. A few factors drove me to the MSD brand. The engine builder highly suggested the distributor. Its fairly common if I ever need replacement parts. They are all designed to work together as well. I have seen a few pictures online of guys getting creative with hiding it. After a lot of time looking at every possible spot I decided on under the dash behind/above the vent cables. There was enough room with a creative yet simple bracket.
I wanted a pretty solid mount so i chose .080 aluminum sourced from Amazon actually. I was also able to use existing holes in the dash for mounting. This was another place I could use the Rivnut tool and use those to secure the ignition box to the bracket and the bracket to the dash. This would allow easy installation and not fight with nuts and washers when mounting lying on my back. I don't have any special tools but I am pretty happy with it. Started with a simple cardboard template flat pattern.
I will do the wiring later once the engine is in the car. I have a couple existing holes in the firewall I could use. One being by the master cylinder for the washer pump that is not being used and has a plug.
The Project is really ramping up now with the arrival of......her heart is home!! :banana:
Picked it up last Friday. Was great to hear it run finally. Best machine have been great to work with. They always answer the phone, up front and honest people. Very impressed with their knowledge and attention to detail.
The block was in epoxy primer so I had to
Clean it with wax and grease remover
Scuff it with scotch brute pad
Spray the dipstick and oil pan with etching primer
Clean the engine again
Then spray single stage enamel
Did I say I m excited! :yes:
Plan is to install it this weekend :wrenching:
Looking good. I love your passion.
Quote from: nsmall on November 10, 2019, 10:52:16 PM
Looking good. I love your passion.
Thank you, I appreciate it. Although family members think i'm nuts. i'm sure most can relate! :))
I have two big updates!
My friend had Friday off work so I proposed I take the day off so we could focus on the getting the clutch, trans and engine together and put in.
I ended up going with the McLeod RST twin clutch. I had a twin in another car and loved it. I like the fact that it has a lot of grip and light pedal pressure. Going this route I shouldn't need a hyd. throw out bearing. I also used the McLeod flywheel.
It was a long day had a few obstacles but got through them. We tried to bolt the trans up after the bellhousing was bolted to the motor. It just wasn't working. So we unbolted the bellhousing and bolted it to the trans and was able to get it all assembled in that order. It was a tight fit with the trans but we were able to get it in and didn't scratch up any of the fresh paint...on the engine or engine bay! It feels so good to get to this stage and I love how the engine is looking in the bay. Although the orange engine in a red engine bay is still growing on me lol
The next big update is on the trans side. I have always wanted to have an overdrive but my motor would be too close to the torque limit of the 5speed by Tremec and the 6 speed required cutting the floor which I wouldn't do. Plus I really wanted to keep my original trans. After talking to Gear Vendors I decided to give them a try. They have a tail shaft housing that bolts to the 4 speed and only required some clearancing but no cutting of the tunnel. Plus they have a very high hp limit so I won't ever have to worry about reaching its limitations. It is activated by a switch that is on their custom pistol grips that go on the stock shifter. Pretty slick. Whenever I want my o.d. I hit the button. Or...I can use it to split any gear I want for a clutchless shift.
With my 28" tires, 3.73 and the .78 od in 4th/over I can cruise @ 70 mph at 2450 rpm. I plan to drive the car and this will give me great acceleration and easy cruising.
The whole assembly is about 13" longer so I just got off the phone with Dynotech and am going to have a driveshaft made that is shorter than my existing and fits that package.
Does that allow for the same shifter mounting points and is there any interference with factory shift linkage?
Quote from: YellowThumper on November 11, 2019, 10:10:18 AM
Does that allow for the same shifter mounting points and is there any interference with factory shift linkage?
The GV tailshaft housing/adapter has provisions for the the ebody shifter location as well as the more forward shifter location. The GV unit is behind the shifter mounting point so no interference with the linkage. I will take another picture of it in the car today. Actually thought I did, but alas no. I do not have the shifter in yet though.
Had to put the car on the ground and double check the length for the drive shaft and took a couple pictures of the GV installed
Quote from: Wayne on November 11, 2019, 04:33:59 PM
Had to put the car on the ground and double check the length for the drive shaft and took a couple pictures of the GV installed
Perfect pics. I didn't realize it was on the very back end.
Going to put on the water pump housing and pump soon. Curious, do any of the bolts that hold them on go into water jackets. Not sure if the bolts require any sealant. Couldn't find anything in the FSM.
Thanks, hoping for a productive weekend! :banana:
The bad news is we got blasted by a snowstorm a couple weeks ago ...a good 10". Good news is it warmed up last week and it's all gone now.
Got the clutch fork in and adjusted. Z bar is in. Pinned the shifter in neutral and got the shift rods installed. Put MT 90 in the trans. 1-4 feels great. Reverse seems a little tricky to find but I'm still new to the 833. Clutch pedal effort feels pretty good. Not as heavy as aggressive 3 finger clutches I think I'm going to be pretty happy with the pedal effort
Started putting the front of the motor on. Water pump housing, pump, t stat, crank pulley and power steering pump.
Going to find some time this week between turkey dinners and get the fuel lines routed. Just got the driveshaft and need to check my driveline angles.
Happy thanksgiving to all! :unitedstates:
Fantastic progress! :clapping:
Quote from: usraptor on November 28, 2019, 12:32:26 PM
Fantastic progress! :clapping:
Thank you! :bigthumb:
Since the GV is powered by a switch I wanted to hide the wire the best I could. Decided to mill a .125 x .125 channel in the front of the shifter for the wire to sit in. Then some clear silicone to hold it in place. Came out pretty slick
Hoping this weekend I can finish routing my fuel lines. I'm about half done but needed a few different fittings so I have been waiting on the delivery man.
That is pretty slick ! I like it :twothumbsup:
I was able to finish up the fuel feed and return. Added a post pump filter and s fuel shutoff valve. I stopped the lines on the rail under the alternator. I just have to route from there up to the regulator which I needed an adapter for.
Once I started looking at the slip yoke for the GV unit, which has 1350 i joints, I just decided to have a driveshaft made with a 1350 in the back. Dr diff had one so now I have the same joint front and back that I should never have to worry about. Picked up the driveshaft from dynocomp as they are down the road from me. Great people and beautiful work. Went with the aluminum shaft. Was able to get that in with the new yoke.
Thank God my old 1/2" electric impact got the pinion nut off....it took about a minute before it finally budged!
A lot of nice stuff hiding under there, looks great ! :bigthumb:
Quote from: anlauto on December 09, 2019, 01:04:14 PM
A lot of nice stuff hiding under there, looks great ! :bigthumb:
Thanks Alan I appreciate it. I know it's not a stock build so it's probably not everyone's cup of tee.
I recently finished up the lines to the carb. Think I will make a support bracket for the FPR though. Headers are on now. Went with TTI 1 7/8. They fit nice. Followed the instructions and no issues. Picked up the summit drop base air cleaner. Had to dimple it in two spots to clear the carb and now it fits nicely.
Just trying to keep moving consistently...day by day.
Nice work and enjoy following updates.
Well I must admit things are taking longer than I expected :(. A couple months ago I was really hoping to fire her up around Christmas and before winter really gets kicking here in MI. It hasn't happened yet...honestly it doesn't bother me as I don't have any pressure to get it done by a certain time and I don't wan't to rush. On the other hand...our weather here has been very mild 8) Running my little 30,000 btu propane heater just a few minutes makes it comfortable to me to work. When things start dipping below freezing outside....thats another story.
So the latest. All the mechanical projects are pretty much done for now. A few days ago I made some adapters for my fan shroud as it wasn't matching up with my Griffin radiator. Used some press / flush fit studs in the brackets that worked perfect. The radiator fit the car fine at least.
Switching gears now (no not literally yet) and focussing on electrical. Finished the wiring for the pump at the back of the car. Had to take some of the interior out to route the pump power wire along the factory harness and drivers side rocker. Mounted the fuel pump relay along with the gear vendors control box at the drivers side kick panel. Made a simple bracket for both. Keeping them out of site and out of the engine bay as I want the engine bay as clean as I can make it.
Next I need to route the GearVendors wiring, install the factory harnesses in the engine bay, wire up the new ignition components....
Now a couple questions regarding the last 2 pictures. :please: There is a green wire with bullet connector behind the drivers kick panel. Looking at the wiring diagram this morning I am thinking it goes to the foot dimmer switch?
Next question is there is a hole in the firewall that I have not been able to figure out what it's intended for? If it's not used I'm thinking of finding a grommet that fits and use that to pass my new wires to the engine bay.
I've made a lot of progress with the electrical. Not much to show there picture wise though. I need to hook up the coil and then I will install the battery and check for 12v sources under the dash to finish the electrical. Plan to do that this weekend.
This past weekend I took a brake from wiring to finish installing the TTI exhaust. The exhaust was closer to the tank and shock support on the driver side than I expected. Was surprised it was that high over the axle...,I didn't expect that. Needless to say I had to reroute my lines a little. Needed a 90 fitting instead of a 45 out of the tank. Going to install that tonight and hope that takes care of it. I ended up getting all the pipes on and the tips aligned. I'm pretty happy with it. Hopefully it doesn't look different once it's on the ground. Had plenty of clearance with the gear vendors.
When I was done with it on Sunday my back was feeling it! Doing this on my back wasn't the most memorable time I've had turning a wrench!
Yea tedious work on your back for sure.
Especially when a soon as you get under. Ya find out you forgot something...
Mike.
Quote from: YellowThumper on January 28, 2020, 08:20:34 PM
Yea tedious work on your back for sure.
Especially when a soon as you get under. Ya find out you forgot something...
Mike.
:iagree: SO true :headbang:
Had a good week and found some time out in the garage! I was able to finish wiring my ignition, fuel pump and overdrive. Also installed the horns. Ran a tap through the bracket and fender to make sure I had a good ground. Also installed some Firecore wires. The 45 degree boots were perfect for the headers and angle plug heads
Put the battery in the car for the first time since last summer... man was I excited yet a little nervous! Was awesome to see the green dash light up again! First thing I tried was the horn, it worked 😁. Next checked the msd box, yep it had its red light 😁. Next tested the pump to to see it would come on. Yep 😁. no gas in the tank yet so I just wanted to make sure it came on.
After that went well figured I would test the clutch switch. Car in neutral and tried to start the car without pressing the clutch...nope wouldn't turn over 😁 good. Pressed the clutch in and she turned right over! 😁
ok 👌 knew the car had some light/ electrical issues. Tried the turn signals...nope 🙁. Headlights...nope🙁. Parking lights yep 😁. Brake lights ... only the driver side.
Today went to the auto parts store Ed bought new bulbs, flashers for the turn signals and hazards. Will have a new floor headlight dimmer switch today from Roseville and will try those tonight Hopefully it's that simple. Haven't done any diagnostics yet.
So my game plan is to pick up some coolant and premium gas and put those in this weekend and check for leaks.
So the real question is when do I try and start it.. well the the car has a scheduled production build date of February 16. So why not 50 years later🤘 I have a few things to sort out and double check till then! Yes there will be a video
An BIG update!
First I bought new flashers and they fixed the turn signals and the hazards work. The headlights work. All that needed was to have the battery cables tightened on the battery. I had them just hand pressed on.
So on Sunday the 16..she fired right up!. No issues at all. She sounds real good. Fuel pressure stabilized and I was able to get that set. Checked voltage on the battery and the alternator is charging like it should. The oil pressure gauge is at the 3/4 mark. Water temp gauge is working and moved up once the motor warmed up. Tach isn't working. I need to check the wires on the back of the tach. Not a lot of room there. We'll see.
Made a short video this week. I almost can't believe this car is running again. Its been a ton of work. I have a lot of appreciation for guys that do a complete restoration and the time that would take.
Enjoy the video.
oh man i love that sound.. :ohyeah:
Quote from: dodgemania on February 22, 2020, 04:52:47 AM
oh man i love that sound.. :ohyeah:
Thanks man! :bigthumb:
Sounds healthy, Nice work. :congrats:
Congrats on getting her running! :woohoo: :bravo: I know the feeling of that first start up. :veryexcited: Nothing like it. :banana:
Looks very nice! No sweeter sound! :clapping:
Awsome milestone for sure.
Your car looks beautiful! One question, have you checked on your hood clearance with that manifold carburetor combination? It looks like it sits pretty high. I'm using an Edelbrock Performer RPM on my 440 and I had to make a custom air cleaner just to get a minimum of clearance.
thanks everyone! What a great feeling it was!
Quote from: Joegrapes on March 07, 2020, 02:43:57 PM
Your car looks beautiful! One question, have you checked on your hood clearance with that manifold carburetor combination? It looks like it sits pretty high. I'm using an Edelbrock Performer RPM on my 440 and I had to make a custom air cleaner just to get a minimum of clearance.
Thank you, I appreciate it! :bigthumb:
I know right! Once the motor was in there I thought to myself that aint gona fit lol. I knew it would based on the people running a 440 RB with the edelbrock air gap intake. Which is fairly common and we know fits. My low deck is .745" shorter than the RB. the rpm air gap has a manifold height of 5.35". The Trick flow is 5.75" By the numbers my carb height should be .345" lower than an RB with the air gap.
I have since put the hood on and everything fits with my drop base air cleaner and 3" element. i am using the k/n air filter lid for better air flow in tight areas. I checked hood clearance and I have 1/2". :banana:
Good choice on the filter lid. Using a drop base air cleaner seems pretty restrictive without the filter lid.
About a week ago we had another decent day and I decided to do a shakedown run down the street to check everything out. Man, it has been a long time since I rode in her.
First thing I noticed before I pulled her out was the fuel pressure was on the high side...just over 8. Pulled her out and checked the breaks in the driveway and they worked fine. Clutch felt fine for now. Tach doesn't work. :(' Pulled out and headed down the street. The new steering box felt great. Brakes worked....but man 4 wheel drums are scary! :)) The trunk lid was actually rattling. The weatherstripping is shot which I new. Its on the list. Went up and down the street 3 times just soaking it all in. Trans shifted great. It wasn't running very smooth though. It idled fine. So....the one concern I had with this fuel system seems like its going to be a problem.
The fuel tank sending unit I'm using has an electric pump in the tank. Designed for efi and it has a return line that is 5/16". the feed is 3/8". My return line is 3/8" and then an adapter stepping down to 5/16" barb right before the tank. The last thing you want with an electric fuel pump and a carb is any backpressure at the carb. When I first fired up the car the fuel pressure was at 7. Where the engine builder tuned it at. Since then its been just over 8 and the floats are high... Decided to do a test. I drained the carb and took the adapter off the back of the return line so I had straight 3/8" line into a gas can. Fired up the car for a minute....checked the fuel pressure and sure enough now it was just under 6. So that one fitting was causing a 2.5 psi pressure increase I was seeing at the carb... not good.
Made a few calls and talked to Inline Radiator out of New York and he said he could update my assembly with a 3/8" return. :twothumbsup: Perfect, this should solve those problems. Pulled it out and shipped out a week ago and it should be done next week.
While that was out I decided to pull the gauge cluster and ship the whole unit out to Redline so he could go through them and update the gauges, and convert to a volt meter. Although just before my parts arrived he had a big order come in so now it is going to be 4-6 weeks :o Two weeks ago he told me 2 weeks. Oh well. I have some other projects to work on and that will put me into mid April which really isn't that bad.
I also had a trans leak. Which surprised me as it didn't leak until I drove it. Seemed to be leaking at or near the reverse light switch or just below it at a large nut. Will have to investigate that too.
Overall for a first shakedown run it went pretty well. My neighbor came over and said it didn't sound quite stock.... No sir, no its not :D
Figured it was a good time to address the trunk weather stripping. It was so compressed the deck lid rattled as the car went down the road. Made another video of the process for those that are interested
Just watched your video of the deck lid weather stripping install, excellent job brother. :worship: I basically do the same thing, I like using paint sticks in between all my clamps so there isn't any "divots" in the rubber, those should go away over time. What I would do next is lower the latch a little so the corners come down to utilize the outer rubber bumpers for deck lid height. :bigthumb:
With 3M weather-strip adhesive, I've never had to use any type of clamping method :dunno: Interesting :thinking:
You make great videos by the way :bigthumb:
Quote from: HEMICUDA on March 16, 2020, 05:09:39 AM
Just watched your video of the deck lid weather stripping install, excellent job brother. :worship: I basically do the same thing, I like using paint sticks in between all my clamps so there isn't any "divots" in the rubber, those should go away over time. What I would do next is lower the latch a little so the corners come down to utilize the outer rubber bumpers for deck lid height. :bigthumb:
Thanks man I appreciate it! Ahhh paint sticks would work well. Thanks for the adjustment tips. I will try that.
Quote from: anlauto on March 16, 2020, 06:04:46 AM
With 3M weather-strip adhesive, I've never had to use any type of clamping method :dunno: Interesting :thinking:
You make great videos by the way :bigthumb:
I should of let the weatherstripping lay flat and unroll before using it right out of the package. It definately had some memory to it which caused my issue of needing it be held in place.
thanks for the compliment on the video. I hope people don't think I am trying to push them onto people. I just enjoy doing them and the challenge of learning something new (making videos) and trying to get better at making them.
So if I understand this correct. You are using an in tank ele pump. You are running a carburetor with return line. BTW I have mine setup this way as well.
My question is where is your regulator located?
Is it before the carb in feed line?
If yes then I recommend that regulator be placed after the carb feed and into the return side.
With regulator first, your carb will only receive what is allowed past the restriction. This could cause possible lean conditions along with some pressure fluctuations.
With regular after carb it then will regulate pressure of system with the fuel in essence being discarded. Carb will never be starved. It will always receive all the pump can supply. :alan2cents:
Hope the return increase corrects your issue.
Mike.
Yes, electric pump in the tank. FPR before the carb. I saw that as an option in the Holley regulator instructions... just never known anyone to plumb it that way with a carburetor.
I could plumb that way, would take some rerouting and a few new fittings but possible.
Quote from: Wayne on March 17, 2020, 04:30:19 PM
Yes, electric pump in the tank. FPR before the carb. I saw that as an option in the Holley regulator instructions... just never known anyone to plumb it that way with a carburetor.
I could plumb that way, would take some rerouting and a few new fittings but possible.
Mine is installed as I described. Learned from following several turbo builds. The eventual plan for mine.
Again i hope the line change corrects it for you. Just another option to try if issue continues.
Have had some extra time on my hands...seems like we all do. My modified fuel pick up just arrived so I am going to work on that this weekend. Although my gauges are still out and will be a few more weeks so won't be able to start it yet as all the wiring is disconnected behind the dash.
I have been looking into what air cleaner setup I wanted to run and what would fit while checking my hood clearance. Decided I would make another video on what I decided on. Might help someone, probably not lol but maybe entertaining. Someone makes a special cameo appearance :))
My fuel pump sending unit came back from being upgraded with a 3/8" return. I was pleased with his work. This should take care of my high fuel pressure issues. I installed that with a Holley hydra Mat to help with not running out of fuel for the electric pump.
I ended up needing to replace my reverse switch as it was leaking and the thermostat gasket.
Good news now is my gauges are are on their way back from Redline. I will get them next week....then I will be ready for another test drive. I'm hoping this one goes alot smoother after addressing everything I found.
:popcorn: :bigthumb:
Quick update.... my fuel pressure is stabilized and the updated sending unit fixed it. More on that later.
My dome light never worked...it was just missing it's bulb. I like simple ones! :bigthumb: Picked up an LED to brighten things up. I popped the cover off and saw they had painted the inside of the lens cover red! Of course I had to give it a try ...remember this car has been off the road since 76. I'm digging it for now.....yeah it's staying! :ohyeah:
That is a nice touch. :cool:
Quote from: Wayne on April 28, 2020, 06:36:44 AM
Quick update.... my fuel pressure is stabilized and the updated sending unit fixed it. More on that later.
My dome light never worked...it was just missing it's bulb. I like simple ones! :bigthumb: Picked up an LED to brighten things up. I popped the cover off and saw they had painted the inside of the lens cover red! Of course I had to give it a try ...remember this car has been off the road since 76. I'm digging it for now.....yeah it's staying! :ohyeah:
Wait a second...hey I follow you on Instagram. I saw that pic this morning!!! LOL
Looks cool.
Do you have a part number for the LED light?
Jason
Quote from: Cudajason on April 28, 2020, 09:51:48 AM
Quote from: Wayne on April 28, 2020, 06:36:44 AM
Quick update.... my fuel pressure is stabilized and the updated sending unit fixed it. More on that later.
My dome light never worked...it was just missing it's bulb. I like simple ones! :bigthumb: Picked up an LED to brighten things up. I popped the cover off and saw they had painted the inside of the lens cover red! Of course I had to give it a try ...remember this car has been off the road since 76. I'm digging it for now.....yeah it's staying! :ohyeah:
Wait a second...hey I follow you on Instagram. I saw that pic this morning!!! LOL
Looks cool.
Do you have a part number for the LED light?
Jason
Hey Jason its a small world! Who are you in IG? The light # is 1142. I bought them from superbrightleds.com
My gauges came back from Redline and got them back in the car. Getting them back in took some patience. Wiring harness isn't long enough to make all the connections while the cluster is laying on the column. They work great and with the new led's they are lit up nice now. Its been raining the last few days so fired it up a few times and everything is working well. I had to take the MSD tach adpater off. Its not need anymore and it was causing the new tach to read high. After I removed it its reading fine now. It was great dealing with Shannon @ Redline. Real impressive work. These look incredible. :banana:
Very nice! :bigthumb:
Quote from: Wayne on April 28, 2020, 10:11:33 AM
Quote from: Cudajason on April 28, 2020, 09:51:48 AM
Quote from: Wayne on April 28, 2020, 06:36:44 AM
Quick update.... my fuel pressure is stabilized and the updated sending unit fixed it. More on that later.
My dome light never worked...it was just missing it's bulb. I like simple ones! :bigthumb: Picked up an LED to brighten things up. I popped the cover off and saw they had painted the inside of the lens cover red! Of course I had to give it a try ...remember this car has been off the road since 76. I'm digging it for now.....yeah it's staying! :ohyeah:
Wait a second...hey I follow you on Instagram. I saw that pic this morning!!! LOL
Looks cool.
Do you have a part number for the LED light?
Jason
Hey Jason its a small world! Who are you in IG? The light # is 1142. I bought them from superbrightleds.com
Yeah it is a small world!
I am still me on IG :haha: :haha: :haha:
My user name is CudaJas.
Jason
I was able to wrap up a couple little projects and felt like it was as good a time as ever to take her on her first maiden voyage! Things went pretty well. No leaks, nothing fell off lol, didn't have to get towed back.... but I do have a few things I am going to address this week. I had put new collector gaskets in the headers as I had a exhaust leak there...well it appears they are also leaking at the head. It sounds pretty bad. Alternator was acting up. I don't think it has been working right as I have checked it and the battery and volts stay at 12.2 -12.6. On the way back from my test drive the volt gauge pegged itself for a couple minutes which had me pretty nervous. I am going to pull that off today and take it up to a little local shop I got it from.
But the main issue I have to deal with is a drivetrain vibration. I knew I would have to do something with adding the gear vendors unit. It starts around 3k rpm. Its not speed dependent. No vibration in neutral free revving the motor. The motor dynoed fine. I just picked up a good angle finder. I didn't check my original trans angle as I didn't plan on this modification at the time so I am not sure what the original angle was. But my angle now is 2.6 down. Which seems off from what normal is... closer to 4 deg. down from what I've heard. My driveshaft is shorter obviously. My pinion stock was 2 deg. pointing down. I have tried 3 & 2 deg. shims to rotate the pinion up and the 2 deg. was slightly better than the 3. I ordered 1 deg. shims I will try next. Before I do that I am going to spin the driveshaft 180 and re set it in the yoke. Easy thing to try. Part of me thinks I will have to modify the trans agle....which is not an easy thing to do. There really isn't much room on the trans crossmember to modify it so the trans can sit lower. Would have to cut it and and reweld it or just make a new one. Either option I am not thrilled with. But one thing at a time.
Made a little video of its first voyage
Congrats on getting her out for her maiden voyage. :clapping: I still remember mine like it was yesterday. :banana: Nothing like it. I'm impressed that you resisted the urge to lite the tires a little. I know I did, but it was partially due to the 4:10s and I wasn't use to the clutch or gears. (sure :D) Nothing like rowing those gears. It's always fun working out those little bugs. I have a wind whistle with the driver's window down, of all things, that I can't figure out. Thanks for the video and keep up the good work. :bravo: :woohoo:
Quote from: usraptor on May 23, 2020, 02:46:59 PM
Congrats on getting her out for her maiden voyage. :clapping: I still remember mine like it was yesterday. :banana: Nothing like it. I'm impressed that you resisted the urge to lite the tires a little. I know I did, but it was partially due to the 4:10s and I wasn't use to the clutch or gears. (sure :D) Nothing like rowing those gears. It's always fun working out those little bugs. I have a wind whistle with the driver's window down, of all things, that I can't figure out. Thanks for the video and keep up the good work. :bravo: :woohoo:
thank you, I appreciate it! Yeah just enjoying the process. Trying not to rush as I want it all sorted out now so I can drive it...but reality is thats not part of the process.
Its been a while!
To be honest I got pretty frustrated with my car a while back and needed a break from it. I was driving it a little, trying to sort out some issues. Went to the gas station and it wouldn't start....turn the key and nothing happening. I had suspected the ignition switch had been acting funny periodically and figured it finally went out. Finally after 20 minutes of tinkering it did start and got it home and wouldn't start again.
Every once in a while I would turn the car off and the fuel pump would stay running. So I was thinking the ignition switch must be acting funny. I have the electric pump wired to acc power so I can prime the carb without it running....I know some are not a fan but I wanted to try that.
After diagnosing the ignition switch wire to the solenoid was not getting anything volts with the key on I figured I would need to replace the ignition switch....and then I didn't touch it for a while.
Now I am motivated to replace it. I have never done the ignition switch. Got the wheel off....my puller was a hare to big to get the crush can off. I had to take a hare of the ends of it with the die grinder to fit it inside. But that did the trick. I had to pick up some smaller snap ring pliers... it took the .047" tips if your wondering. The bearing housing at first didn't come right off. Watched Cody's video a few times. Put the nut on the shaft and tried to pull the housing up while giving it a few good taps and it did come off without using the special tool the manual states.
Going back out tonight to see about getting to the switch. Going to try and leave the shaft in the car....really don't want to remove that if I don't have too.
That job can be a real PITA to do in the car, but you're almost there :bigthumb:
I hope there is an issue with the switch and not just a loose wire somewhere :fingerscrossed:
I replaced my ignition switch also. It was a long time ago but if I remember correctly you should be able to do it with the column/shaft in the car. Good luck. :bigthumb:
Update time! I did finish the install of the ignition switch. Was able to keep the column/shaft in the car. The switch is working fine no issues.
But then a week later go out to start it and nothing....just like before. I was hoping/thinking it was the switch but apparently not. I can't find anything obvious. I can bypass the relay with a screwdriver and it turns over. Then the next day I go out and it fires right up....didn't change anything.
Over the weekend I went and filled it up and wanted to put a few miles on it....2 miles from home it lost power and died. First time that happened while driving. Pulled over to a side street and popped the hood. Nothing obvious...nothing loose that I touched. Get back in the car and it fired right back up. Went straight home.
All wiring harnesses in the engine bay are new. New relay, battery, voltage regulator and rebuilt alternator.
I know some people add an extra ground to the car. I haven't yet. just the factory neg. cable going to the intake manifold bolt and the other small wire going to the radiator support in front of the battery. Those are good clean connections.
Think I could be needing another ground?
Not really sure what to do now. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. Feeling pretty bummed that I don't feel safe really driving it now. Only have 200 miles on the car so far.
How about the safety switch on the clutch pedal ? Maybe it's not always sending a ground to the relay ?
You could unplug the green wire from the relay and run a constant ground wire to the terminal. See if the "no start" continues. Just be careful because now it will start in gear without the clutch depressed.
Are the main connections under the dash to the ignition switch clean and tight.
I have had an intermittent no start condition in my cuda in the past, no click nothing...usually wehern I squezzed the connectors it started right up.
Jason
Quote from: anlauto on September 11, 2020, 10:22:32 AM
How about the safety switch on the clutch pedal ? Maybe it's not always sending a ground to the relay ?
You could unplug the green wire from the relay and run a constant ground wire to the terminal. See if the "no start" continues. Just be careful because now it will start in gear without the clutch depressed.
I could check that...thats one thing I haven't replaced or looked at. Do you think that could cause it to cut out while its running?
Quote from: Cudajason on September 11, 2020, 10:42:20 AM
Are the main connections under the dash to the ignition switch clean and tight.
Thought so but I can / will double check that.
I have had an intermittent no start condition in my cuda in the past, no click nothing...usually wehern I squezzed the connectors it started right up.
Jason
Quote from: JS29 on September 11, 2020, 10:57:07 AM
@Wayne (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/wayne_4348) The safety switch has nothing to do with your issue. That is there so the starter won't engage unless the clutch is disengaged. I would do what Jason suggested. :alan2cents:
If the clutch pedal safety switch is not working properly, the car WILL NOT start, the engine WILL NOT turn over. The terminal on the started relay has to be grounded in order for the car to start with the key :alan2cents:
A faulty switch at the pedal will NOT cause the car to lose power while driving obviously.
Double checked everything in the engine bay and that looked ok. Went under the dash and looked at the long/flat connector for the ignition switch by the column. I just replaced it and the red wire wasn't fully seated and looks like it got pushed out when I put the two connectors together. I was able to get the wire seated properly and made the connection again. I'm sure thats why it died when I was driving it.
I am hoping this connection wasn't tight before and that's why it would occasionally not start. I went out for a drive on Sunday with a friend and put about 30 miles on it. Stopped a few times and it fired right back up. I restarted it twice after I got home and it was good. Hoping that was the issue.
Going to focus on getting the carb dialed in now.
Thanks for the help :ohyeah:
A couple picture from Sunday.
Sounds like you found the issue :twothumbsup:
On the hunt for rear seat belts for my car. Would prefer driver quality originals. Something I can bolt in and use. Don't need restored ones.
Even with red interior my front belts are black....which I believe is correct.
Any help would be great!
In my quest for rear belts I made a thread in the parts wanted section.
A member with only 1 post Tommy1867 sends me a message and says he has them and to email him. I do and he sends me a picture that doesn't look right to me and "how much I got to offer for the belt".
A quick google search brings up the picture he sent me from this post by Chris Pauluk....
Something smells fishy.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/74-cuda-rear-seat-seat-belt-pictures/5624/
Yes, there have been several posts recently about members posting for parts wanted and then being contacted by a new member with only 1 post that claims to have the needed part.
This Tommy1867 just contacted me too asking "how much you got to offer". Anyone know this member?
https://forum.e-bodies.org/general-topics/7/watch-out-for-tommy-1867/18327/
I finally am getting around to some little details under the hood like hood to radiator support seal, attach the fender tag, add the coolant and engine emission stickers.
On that note is there a proper place where the stickers go? I see the coolant stickers centered on the radiator support and sometimes off center to the right.
I also see the engine sticker to the right of the fender tag on the flat, sometimes on the bend of the inner fender.
Curious if one location is truly correct or not
I have attached a picture for reference.
Installed by Humans....so I wouldn't say a few inches either way would be incorrect.
Thanks Alan!
Correct.
All a general location.
My original one.
Sunday was maybe out last real nice day here in SE Michigan and went out for a cruise with my brother in law. There is this old gas station I have been wanting to take some photos at for a while. Car is running pretty well now but the carb needs more fine tuning. Anyway thought I would share a couple pictures as it's been a while
:ohyeah: :ohyeah: :clapping:
Very cool!
That Vette looks nice too. I love the C3s and want one to park next to my Cuda some day.
Jason
Wasn't sure if I would post this or not as what I am working on isn't for the car...but thought someone might find it helpful.
I had some aluminum I wanted to polish and decided to make another video to show the process I used. I do have have some car projects lined up in the next few months....buts its really cold out there right now and they aren't urgent.
If you have ever thought about polishing metal or need something to pass the time over the next few days enjoy :bigthumb:
I was going to take the Mrs fir a ride this past week but quickly realized the passenger, female front seat belt is not cooperating.
Thought I would ask here if anyone has 1 extra female/receiver belt?
Any help would be great.
Life has been pretty busy this summer and the car didn't get much attention. Starting to work on it a bit and drive it again now....with that being said. Thought I would post here as I really could use some help on the front seat belts I am having issues finding.
I have been talking with Bill Edwards who makes seat belts for months and thought that was going to work out but unfortunately that hasn't worked out yet.
I am looking for front buckles. I only need the female portions black (2 for each front seat, lap & shoulder) for my car. Don't need show quality, prefer a driver set. But at this point I'm taking about whatever I can get!
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Have you tried Dave at Rosevilles? https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/
I finally did get the front belts from Bill so I was able to get working front and rear belts in tne car! :twothumbsup:
While I was putting them in I decided to put in new carpet, door sill plates and new shifter boot and trim ring. What a huge difference
Then I loaded up the family and went to the cider mill for ice cream. First time all 3 of us got to go in the car. Good times.
A new video installing the carpet & belts.
Interior works really nice. Great job! :twothumbsup:
I don't even yet own an E-body of my own (hopefully that changes next year!), but I have read through every post and watched every video with great enthusiasm. Your passion really shines through!
This build thread has been really inspirational and your 'Cuda is really beautiful. The red-on-red is stunning - I don't think we'll ever see such loud color schemes in new cars ever again.
I did have a question, if that's cool with you. How do you find driving a 4-speed with the Gear Vendors overdrive? I've only really seen them coupled with automatic transmissions, and I was hoping to find out what it's like with a stick. Is it really possible to use it so that you shift: First; First Over; Second Over; Third Over; Fourth Over, thus getting a clutchless shift between your biggest gear drop?
Thanks!
-Matt B.
Quote from: Bad Bird on October 30, 2021, 03:15:24 PM
I don't even yet own an E-body of my own (hopefully that changes next year!), but I have read through every post and watched every video with great enthusiasm. Your passion really shines through!
This build thread has been really inspirational and your 'Cuda is really beautiful. The red-on-red is stunning - I don't think we'll ever see such loud color schemes in new cars ever again.
I did have a question, if that's cool with you. How do you find driving a 4-speed with the Gear Vendors overdrive? I've only really seen them coupled with automatic transmissions, and I was hoping to find out what it's like with a stick. Is it really possible to use it so that you shift: First; First Over; Second Over; Third Over; Fourth Over, thus getting a clutchless shift between your biggest gear drop?
Thanks!
-Matt B.
Thanks Matt I really appreciate it. Its funny, the red interior really drew me to this car. I love the bright interiors on old mopars like red and blue. Its just everything good about the 70's.
In regards to the GV unit. I never use it in 1-3 gears. In my opinion there really is no reason too. I mainly use it when I want O.D. so fourth gear only. For me with a 3.73 that's usually over 50-55mph. When in traffic and im using it I will keep it engaged if I slow down a little and downshift to 3rd or second and just work my way up to cruising in 4th with iton. Mine is controlled manually with a button on the shifter which I find is perfect for a manual trans. I plan to do a video showing using it in detail while driving with it.
QuoteThanks Matt I really appreciate it.
No, thank you for such an interesting thread - you have yourself a new YouTube subscriber!
QuoteMine is controlled manually with a button on the shifter which I find is perfect for a manual trans. I plan to do a video showing using it in detail while driving with it.
I'm looking forward to seeing it in action. There aren't too many videos showing how Gear Vendors behave when attached to a manual trans.
What an amazing find. I was looking at a Red on Red Cuda at a show last year, my buddy Craig didn't like it, he hates red interior, I was like Nah, that's HOT! I love it. He's a Chevy guy, so you know he has bad taste ;)
Thanks for sharing this awesome ride.
I ended up spending a lot of time this year dialing the car in and sorting little things out. The last couple months I was able to put in some quality time behind the wheel enjoying her which really was rewarding.
I decided to make a different video. Since I enjoy making them. I want to try and capture what it's like to enjoy driving these old cars and taking them on a good rip. Went up to the old Sinclair station, and lake on some fun winding roads with my buddy in his 1970 Bette. Then for something different the most holiday lights you will ever see in my little local downtown.
Hope you all enjoy it and have a Merry Christmas!
https://youtu.be/dEROsruaym8
Great video and exhaust note to your 'Cuda. :twothumbsup: Love the Vette also. Wow! What city/town is that that goes all out with the Christmas lights? Very festive! :bravo:
Awesome video great drive with the vette and all the lights in that town ship very nice . Love the way you started the video and ended it . Nice music choice enjoy it a got cheers :australia:
Quote from: cudamadd on December 26, 2021, 12:23:11 PM
Awesome video great drive with the vette and all the lights in that town ship very nice . Love the way you started the video and ended it . Nice music choice enjoy it a got cheers :australia:
Thank you I appreciate it :bigthumb:
Quote from: usraptor on December 26, 2021, 08:47:13 AM
Great video and exhaust note to your 'Cuda. :twothumbsup: Love the Vette also. Wow! What city/town is that that goes all out with the Christmas lights? Very festive! :bravo:
Thank you! That is downtown Rochester Michigan. Its a great little town really we are just North of it.
Happy new year! I hope has a healthy and successful 2022 and is able to get out and enjoy these old Mopars!
I have kept in touch with the guy who found my car and bought it dug it out of decades of storage. He has followed along the journey the car has been on since I bought it with lots of support. Well the other day he shared he wanted to send me a kool little piece of the cars history. He said it should stay with the car and I should have it. A few days ago the package arrived from Florida.... It was the plate that was on the car when he pulled it out of storage. He was going to keep it but really was enjoying what I have been doing with the car and said it should stay with the car!
Man, I now it's a small thing to most but I was happier than a kid on Christmas. I love the stories that go along with many of these old cars. There history... just so kool. :bigthumb:
For those that are new to this project the car was parked in 75/76 and sat there for decades I made a short video discussing some of the cars history for those interested. But here a couple pictures of the plate and inspection sticker on the windshield
Let me know if you guys have any creative ideas of what to do with the plate.
That's very nice of the previous owner to send you that plate . I to love the history of these old cars and still have the factory booklet .and the original red bottle now empty for the spare saver wheel. These cars will never be made again ,so any little piece of history from old parts to posters go on my wall . Your car packed in 75/76 is a great story with in its self . :australia:
Has anyone found a difference in the repop sunvisors? I have a driver side one on the car and its marginal and a passenger one that is toast which also has a bad rod. I just posted in the parts wanted area....doubt anyone has a decent set OG red ones but figured I would ask there as well.
I see vans auto has a set for $95 and legendary has a set for $160 haven't checked to see if they are actually in stock.
After much searching and help from one very kind individual (I love this community) I was able to find a near mint set of red sun-visors. Cleaned them and the rods up and bought some reproduction little pieces to finish them off and got them in the car. Just trying to stay busy with the little projects right now during winter while its freezing here in Michigan.
Really felt like I struck gold on this find :banana:
One more of those little projects nocked out this winter. I had bought the glove box liner last summer but never got to it. Seemed like to many "fun" things to do at the time that took priority!
Picked it up from Muscle Car Technologies. The car was missing it...was surprised the material it was actually made from.
Someone turns 52 today :happybday:
Quote from: Wayne on January 03, 2022, 11:46:09 AM
Has anyone found a difference in the repop sunvisors? I have a driver side one on the car and its marginal and a passenger one that is toast which also has a bad rod. I just posted in the parts wanted area....doubt anyone has a decent set OG red ones but figured I would ask there as well.
I see vans auto has a set for $95 and legendary has a set for $160 haven't checked to see if they are actually in stock.
They have subtle differences in the metal clips
Happy birthday to her ageing well .One thing I enjoy about this hobby, is how proud owners are . And so people should be . I offen say to members of my own family and friends. If you cannot see what we see in these beautiful cars . Then you will never under stand full stop . :australia: :cheers:
I wanted a smaller steering wheel with a more modern feel. Thought I would try the PG Classics wheel as it looks real nice and is leather wrapped....plus it comes in red :banana: I did run into a issue with holes for the screws being to small.
I also reached out to Mike / MickM on the forum here as I really like the horn button he makes. I wanted to go with the model with the fish and paint the button red. That came the challenge of trying to find the correct paint to match the dash/column. I talked to Instrument Specialties and they mixed me up a pint and put some in a spray can for me after checking with their supplier. They had never done that before. Was real pleased with the product. It took quite a few coats.
Made a video of the process and wanted to go over the whole project. Alot of people think you need an adapter to run a tuff wheel which you don't. I also go over in detail Mikes horn button and show the instructions and how I paint and install it.
Here are a few picture and a link to video if interested
Mike was great to deal with and so was Instrument Specialties :bigthumb:
Sure fits in with you RED theme :twothumbsup:
After driving the car last summer I decided I want to improve the handling characteristics of the car in a big way. After talking to a few manufacturers and car owners running various parts I decided on going with the Hotchkis TVS kit plus their torsion bars and shocks. Sway bars are still a week or two out... hopefully no longer. I'm really excited about doing this project 👍
It's time to get busy, spring will be here soon! :banana:
Maybe I missed this, but did you sell your rally wheels yet and if so what did you replace them with?
You didn't miss it....I did just sell them locally. New wheels are yet to be announced. :) I would rather wait till I have them and maybe tires on them to reveal them
This past week was all about getting the rear suspension out of the car so I can put in the Hotchkis parts in. I decided while I was in there I might as well put a B-Body housing in the car to make room for bigger tires/wheels in the future. I couldn't find a good deal on one locally but found a guy to cut down my housing and move the perches. It wasn't the original housing if anyone wonders or cares.
All is out now and the housing it out for powder. Moving along, was a good week! :banana:
Great video....might have been shorter if you had some power tools... :haha: :haha: :haha:
Quote from: anlauto on March 12, 2022, 09:38:47 AM
Great video....might have been shorter if you had some power tools... :haha: :haha: :haha:
Thanks .... Ain't that truth. I need to up my tool game :)
I see the car parked in front of Goodison Garage. I live within about a 3 min drive and a 10 min walk from there. We use the vet clinic next door. We're neighbors! Nice car
Quote from: 70 Top Banana on March 12, 2022, 07:44:53 PM
I see the car parked in front of Goodison Garage. I live within about a 3 min drive and a 10 min walk from there. We use the vet clinic next door. We're neighbors! Nice car
Wow small world! Do you have a 70 yellow Cuda? We should meet up this spring :bigthumb:
Not a Cuda, I have a 70 Yellow T/A. Bought it about a year ago. Pretty solid car and runs great but needs some work. Don't they all? Agree, we should meet up this spring! I am up the hill off Gallagher Rd. In Goodison Place. :handshake:
Quote from: 70 Top Banana on March 13, 2022, 10:50:19 AM
Not a Cuda, I have a 70 Yellow T/A. Bought it about a year ago. Pretty solid car and runs great but needs some work. Don't they all? Agree, we should meet up this spring! I am up the hill off Gallagher Rd. In Goodison Place. :handshake:
Nice! No kidding, we tried to buy a house in there when we moved to the area 5 years ago but weren't quick enough lol. We are off Dutton
Quote from: Banana on March 13, 2022, 11:12:50 AM
@Wayne (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/wayne_4348)@70 Top Banana
I'm at Livernois and Tienken. Let's see the cars as soon as the roads clear. 70 Challenger Convertible FY1.
Very kool to find other E body owners so close. Yes, lets meet up in spring! :banana:
Perfect, I am in. Let's keep tabs and find a nice day that works! Look forward to it!
Had a good/ productive week in the garage! Moved onto the front end of the car and was able to get all the front suspension and steering out. Had one upper ball joint that was pretty stubborn and one broken cheap puller in the process. But that allowed me a tool upgrade :D
I have a few small projects to do next then I can start putting it all back together :banana:
I enjoy watching the videos here on Sunday morning....almost makes me want to go out to my shop.......almost.... :rofl:
Quote from: anlauto on March 20, 2022, 06:22:29 AM
I enjoy watching the videos here on Sunday morning....almost makes me want to go out to my shop.......almost.... :rofl:
Thanks Alan! Yeah, it was kind of hard for me to get motivated at first. All things were working good on the car last year so hard to tear it apart.....and those cold winters/garage doesn't help. But I really don't want to be able to drive it and enjoy it soon so that keeping me going now.
Been multitasking a bit. Working on the lower control arms and they are off for powder.
So I picked up some disc front spindles and spent some time cleaning them up. They were pretty rough and needed alot of love :(
I got them from Stephens performance which took a while as he had to find a pair basically....then what he told me for price was for only one and I assumed pair....ugh. Wasn't too thrilled about my sticker shock in the end. I go into more detail in the video if interested.
Real happy with how they turned out for doing everything myself on these. Moving along, one project at a time.
Only 6 seconds in and I can tell the weather is nicer... :haha: :haha:
Okay, another great how to video, but PLEASE tell me that price included the caliper mounting bracket too ? :takealook: :bigmoney:
Quote from: anlauto on March 26, 2022, 02:56:15 PM
Okay, another great how to video, but PLEASE tell me that price included the caliper mounting bracket too ? :takealook: :bigmoney:
Thanks again Alan..,,sadly no. If I was going yo need them I would of really complained but I just let it go. The whole thing let a bad impression on me.... It still upsets me when I think what I paid. I didn't have to have the 70-72 spindles
The last pair of 73-74 spindles I sold about two months back, I let go for $100 CDN, and they had the brackets on them too...I just sold the complete 70 Charger disc brake set up for $500 but I included the K frame, ps box sway bar etc... etc... :dunno: I wish I had of known you were looking for this kind of stuff....to me it's just heavy junk I don't need laying around...
I have to post here more in the future when I am looking for stuff.
Good news is my LCA's finished up at the powder coater early this week and I was able to pick them up and finish putting the bushings and pins in them. Now they are ready to go back on the car. Which also means I can focus on putting it all back together...Everything is rebuilt or painted/coated now.
Since I am not doing an O.E. build I didn't try and duplicate the cosmoline coating but went for a more natural finish on them. I think it turned out nice. Also added PST's rebuild kit which includes the stiffening brace. Went over to my buddies garage and used his press and he tig welded up my old bushing so we could press them out and he welded on my braces. :banana:
Finally turned the corner.....and now I am officially in the putting it back together stage :banana:
I refinished the shock plates....touched up the upper control arm bolts/hardware.
This past week I assembled the rear end housing and center section. Put on the Hotchkis leaf springs with the Dr. Diff offset shackles. No big issues. Happy to have that in the car now. The Hotchkis subframe connectors can't go on until the car is on the wheels so those will go on last.
Hotchkis said my sway bars were shipping out at the end of this past week so I should have those next week. Thats been like a 5 month wait for those. I wonder if they have those made over seas or something. Everything else they shipped out to me back in December I believe.
Was out working on the car today and the UPS man pulled up. Dropped off the sway bars I have been waiting for since I ordered them months ago. He is super nice, wanted to chat cars for a quick minute before he left.
These came just in time too. Long weekend and needed them to wrap up the suspension upgrades. :banana:
Looking forward to the video :banana:
Had a busy yet productive week in the car.
Happy Easter everyone!
Was able to get the Hotchkis front end parts on the car. Less the sway bars.... Those are next.
The parts fit up good. Had a little trimming for the upper control arms on a flange which the instructions did note. Overall real happy so far, if they perform as good as they look I will be good.
Curious about running here joints in the street and longevity..., time will tell I guess
Again Wayne, enjoyed the video this morning, thanks for sharing...Those parts are very impressive looking for sure :drooling:
I agree the hymn joints don't scream confidence compared to a factory tie rod end, but I guess it all works together as a system...odd how they offset the front of the upper control arm as well :thinking:
I can see this new adjustability being awesome on a road course or rally racing or something, but with regular driving to a local cruise night, will you even notice a difference other then a very stiff firm ride ? :stayinlane:
Quote from: anlauto on April 17, 2022, 10:42:14 AM
Again Wayne, enjoyed the video this morning, thanks for sharing...Those parts are very impressive looking for sure :drooling:
I agree the hymn joints don't scream confidence compared to a factory tie rod end, but I guess it all works together as a system...odd how they offset the front of the upper control arm as well :thinking:
I can see this new adjustability being awesome on a road course or rally racing or something, but with regular driving to a local cruise night, will you even notice a difference other then a very stiff firm ride ? :stayinlane:
thanks Alan, I really appreciate it.
Relocating the one point on the UCA is designed to get rid of the bump steer that affects the stock style pieces. I do know quite a few people that have a lot of miles on heim joints...but still i'm a little cautious and we'll see how the work over the years. its not like I will be driving it 10k miles a year or anything.
The plan/desire is to improve the handling to the point its more like a modern performance/ GT car. seems like a big ask I know but I know what others have done and I want to optimize what I can. Yes, I know it will get more stiff but I am going to run "good" adjustable shocks which should make things decent for just cruising around. At the end of the day nothing is permanent that I am doing and just trying to build an old Mopar to have a lot of fun with.
Should be lots of fun ! :twothumbsup:
I'll throw into the thread that I look forward to the video also.
I got you on my big screen and I can see everything up close.
Great ride so far!! Love the progress! Keep em coming!
Quote from: cuda hunter on April 17, 2022, 03:26:57 PM
I'll throw into the thread that I look forward to the video also.
I got you on my big screen and I can see everything up close.
Great ride so far!! Love the progress! Keep em coming!
Thanks so much, it means a lot as it does take a good amount of time, but i enjoy it. :bigthumb:
Chipping away at the Hotchkis pile of parts in the garage! This past week I was able to get the front sway bar on the car. Looking ahead and it looks like the rear bar needs to be installed when the car is on the ground....so we'll see what I want to tackle next. Kind of need a little break to be honest.
Was hoping to start the brakes last week but remembered I needed to put new wheel bearings on my axles and replace the drum studs with something longer. Which means I had to go back to a friends house to use his press. Didn't have what we needed to get the bearing off the axles with a press so had to carefully cut them off with gentle precision of a surgeon :)
If I had the space I would have a press... and a few other tools that's for sure.
Been working on the brakes this past week and wrapped up the fronts. I decided to go big! Went with the Baer brakes front and rear. I also have their master and proportioning valve to install.
Their brakes are really impressive. I like the options they offer, and the design of the systems are really top notch. They came packaged very nicely. I started with the front kit. Uses their hub. My plan was 13" but the 14" kit was like only $40 more. The Baer sales guy I was talking to suggested going 14" if they fit....bigger rotors offer more surface area more cooking. So I sent the brake template they have on their site to the wheel manufacturer I will be using and they said with will fit fine.
I do plan on doing some driving events with the car if anyone is wondering....its not going to be a "race car". But I want to have the brakes to match the power and handling I am after.
Looks great, does Baer specify/supply a master cylinder that works with the chosen calipers?
What size rims are you going to use ? Those brakes are huge :rubeyes:
Quote from: Brads70 on May 14, 2022, 12:18:28 PM
Looks great, does Baer specify/supply a master cylinder that works with the chosen calipers?
thanks Brad, they suggest a master designed for manual brakes with a small bore. I am going to run their master with a 15/16" bore with their adjustable prop. valve.
Quote from: anlauto on May 14, 2022, 04:35:54 PM
What size rims are you going to use ? Those brakes are huge :rubeyes:
I am going to run 18" already checked the Baer template with the wheel manufacturer to make sure they clear
Rear brakes are on! All went pretty smooth. Had to do some light clean up on the parking brake assembly to get the axle collar to clear it.
I am working with a company to get parking brake cables made. I am hopeful and will post up how that turns out. The Baer rear brakes won't work with the factory cables....they make units for other cars but not Mopar for some reason.
I am going to run the Baer master cylinder and their adjustable proportioning valve. They said I can keep my existing brake valve if I remove its internals....i assume there is a spring or check valve in there. Thats what I will be starting next. It might be easiest / cleanest to keep it to same me from redoing all my front lines or adding a bunch of unions. Will look at that and see.
I've installed several sets of Wilwood rear disc brakes and they sell a universal cut-to-length E-brake cable set that is super easy and affordable to use and looks like it would directly hook up to your Baer calipers... :alan2cents:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-330-9371
Nice build and videos. I had subscribed to your YouTube channel and then discovered that you were on this forum not knowing you were here. Great work and great car!
Thanks, Wes
Keep it up!!! Thanks
Quote from: anlauto on May 21, 2022, 11:39:53 AM
I've installed several sets of Wilwood rear disc brakes and they sell a universal cut-to-length E-brake cable set that is super easy and affordable to use and looks like it would directly hook up to your Baer calipers... :alan2cents:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-330-9371
Thanks for the link Alan. If the company Baer suggested doesn't pan I will probably go that route.
Quote from: moparcar on May 21, 2022, 05:10:00 PM
Nice build and videos. I had subscribed to your YouTube channel and then discovered that you were on this forum not knowing you were here. Great work and great car!
Thanks, Wes
Thanks Wes, I appreciate it and thanks for subscribing and following along it means alot :bigthumb:
Quote from: nsmall on May 21, 2022, 10:38:21 PM
Keep it up!!! Thanks
Thats the plan!
Another small step closer. I installed the BAER "remaster" master cylinder and their adjustable proportioning valve. There parts really do impress. The master is 15/16" bore as its designed to be a manual brake system. Baer mentioned I could bypass the front distribution block or use it if I took all the internals out. First thought it would be simple to use it and strip out the guts and that would make the lines simpler...then after looking at the block and lines closer thought I would just remove it and use a T for the front lines and a union for the back and make jumpers up to the prop. valve. Which is what I am going to do.
Bought a short roll of stainless brake line and the Baer kit came with some nice stainless 3/16" fittings.
Borrowed a friends flaring tool but that wasn't working well on the stainless lines I have. Seemed like a good idea at the time lol. I ended up buying a new flaring tool by "Capri" that looks alot better with great reviews....I will give that a try today/this week in the next video to hopefully make the lines and modify the existing ones to the correct fittings I need/want. They don't say its good for stainless though...it was $50. Tools actually rated for S.S. are about $200...which I didn't want to spend. We'll see.
I picked up this one from Amazon and it works great with Stainless Lines... :twothumbsup:
https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=rvi_sccl_12/140-3216062-5770208?pd_rd_w=c0qYu&content-id=amzn1.sym.8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_p=8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_r=Z893YF0WPC2BZ8NPH5P1&pd_rd_wg=ZASc3&pd_rd_r=a030bc02-3eea-4041-b460-cfdc60f68cd3&pd_rd_i=B06XPRVCPV&th=1
Quote from: anlauto on May 30, 2022, 06:13:03 AM
I picked up this one from Amazon and it works great with Stainless Lines... :twothumbsup:
https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=rvi_sccl_12/140-3216062-5770208?pd_rd_w=c0qYu&content-id=amzn1.sym.8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_p=8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_r=Z893YF0WPC2BZ8NPH5P1&pd_rd_wg=ZASc3&pd_rd_r=a030bc02-3eea-4041-b460-cfdc60f68cd3&pd_rd_i=B06XPRVCPV&th=1
When you use that tool , do you use a hand file to bevel the outside edge of the line at all? Seems like most people suggest doing that
Good to know! That looks just like the Capri tool I ordered. Wonder who made it first :)
I just make sure the "cut" is nice and clean, de-burr the inside, then flare it...after the flare, I take it to the wire wheel to clean up the final product...but this style of flare tool works great, regardless of the brand, I wish I had of found it years ago... :twothumbsup:
The new flare tool made sone real good looking flares. Going to bleed the system thus week and see how they actually seal up. Made a couple jumper lines out of S.S. And they came out all right.
My parking brake cables will begin tomorrow and I'm real curious to see if they are exactly wgg he at I need.
I really like that style of flare tool as well...couple of hints though....I put some anti-seize on the die threads just so it won't bind ever, and I've always been able to put the head of the tool in my bench vice...I don't think I could match your arm strength :unbelievable:
Well my flare tool gave out on me today after doing several flares on stainless steel tubing, with only one more flare to go...it decided to pull the threads out of the insert instead :pullinghair: even used anti-seize too :'(
New one on order, will be here Friday :headbang:
Good tip on the anti seize. I did use sone grease on the threads.
I did 1 round of brake bleeding and I wasn't getting any bubbles but it feels a bit soft on the first press of the peddle then gets harder. Will have to try it again later. Good news is the flares sealed up great.
My parking brake cables came in and I was really impressed. I used Control Cables and I got them both custom made to length. Very reasonable too.
Those cables look awesome...I was a little concerned when you were copying the originals for length knowing that the mounting was different, but you explained that rather nicely at the end. :clapping:
As for the price....all I can say is WOW....unbelievable, because like I said earlier, I've been using Wilwood's universal kits $$$ :bigmoney:
Awesome video once again. Nice job and just as good as all the big name products , but at half the price. :australia:
Nice build you have going on here!
I started on Page 1 Post 1 this morning and read thru the whole thing and watched several of your videos. Loved the maiden voyage and rowing the gears.
Did you ever find and fix the vibration problem with the drive train?
When you installed the GV unit did you have to do any floor pan modifications?
Quote from: larry4406 on June 19, 2022, 05:28:08 AM
Nice build you have going on here!
I started on Page 1 Post 1 this morning and read thru the whole thing and watched several of your videos. Loved the maiden voyage and rowing the gears.
Did you ever find and fix the vibration problem with the drive train?
When you installed the GV unit did you have to do any floor pan modifications?
Thanks I really appreciate it. I had to clearance a few spots with a large hammer. Yes, the vibration was I had the driveshaft 180 out of the rear axle.....ugh. at least something simple.
I put the Hotchkis shocks on the other day. Real impressed with their products again.
Quote from: anlauto on May 30, 2022, 06:13:03 AM
I picked up this one from Amazon and it works great with Stainless Lines... :twothumbsup:
https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=rvi_sccl_12/140-3216062-5770208?pd_rd_w=c0qYu&content-id=amzn1.sym.8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_p=8b4d8c20-8e51-4634-a76f-c00a1995a502&pf_rd_r=Z893YF0WPC2BZ8NPH5P1&pd_rd_wg=ZASc3&pd_rd_r=a030bc02-3eea-4041-b460-cfdc60f68cd3&pd_rd_i=B06XPRVCPV&th=1
I just got this today, :fingerscrossed: I like that I can use it under the car. :slapme5:
Quote from: Wayne on July 09, 2022, 06:14:55 PM
Quote from: larry4406 on June 19, 2022, 05:28:08 AM
Nice build you have going on here!
I started on Page 1 Post 1 this morning and read thru the whole thing and watched several of your videos. Loved the maiden voyage and rowing the gears.
Did you ever find and fix the vibration problem with the drive train?
When you installed the GV unit did you have to do any floor pan modifications?
Thanks I really appreciate it. I had to clearance a few spots with a large hammer. Yes, the vibration was I had the driveshaft 180 out of the rear axle.....ugh. at least something simple.
I put the Hotchkis shocks on the other day. Real impressed with their products again.
They look like real nice shocks! 10-12 years ago when I built my car Hotchkiss just getting into the Mopar market and was using fox shocks . Nothing against them but I went with QA1 double adjustables. They are still performing nicely. I did use Hotchkiss upper control arms though, they have since changed their design to make them easier to adjust. Nice build I'm enjoying your posts and video's! :bradsthumb:
Thanks Brad, I appreciate it. I tried using their new uppers but had some clearance issues with the adjuster nut and my new rim lip....ugh
So BIG news! The new wheels and tires are on the car! Yes, you will have to click on the video to find out the wheels for now...I will post pictures of the car in a few days for those who don't watch the videos which I understand...The car is not done....but its a big day and things are progressing although life is super busy this summer. Did notice that even though I am not getting any air out of the lines and I thought they were bled good....still not great braking on the fist press of the brakes when I pulled it out of the garage today. She did fire right up though.
Nice rims! :bradsthumb: I have the same ones on my Challenger. I also have Falken tires ( 615K). I've enjoyed them for around 10 years now. Customer service from team III wheels is great I needed 1 replacement rim due to a fender bender ( not my fault) and they delivered it to me just last week up here in Canada.2-3 weeks total. I'm pretty happy with that! I'm running 18x11 on all four corners. With 315/30/18 up front and 295/40/18 rear. Handles really well, I surprise a lot of people.
Enjoy the heck out of them! Those tires are really nice grip wise! Mine have aged out time wise now and I need to replace them. I can definitely feel the loss of grip due to age. Tire wear is pretty respectable! They are also not bad in the rain. I've driven to Carlisle a few times now ( 7 1/2 hours each way) and got caught in a bad rain storm on the way home once.
Great Brad...blow the surprise for everyone else... :P I like the "?" rims :))
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO :worship: ....I'm glad to see you got power tools now...the video is shorter... :haha: :haha: :haha:
Quote from: Brads70 on August 13, 2022, 04:32:32 PM
Nice rims! :bradsthumb: I have the same ones on my Challenger. I also have Falken tires ( 615K). I've enjoyed them for around 10 years now. Customer service from team III wheels is great I needed 1 replacement rim due to a fender bender ( not my fault) and they delivered it to me just last week up here in Canada.2-3 weeks total. I'm pretty happy with that! I'm running 18x11 on all four corners. With 315/30/18 up front and 295/40/18 rear. Handles really well, I surprise a lot of people.
Enjoy the heck out of them! Those tires are really nice grip wise! Mine have aged out time wise now and I need to replace them. I can definitely feel the loss of grip due to age. Tire wear is pretty respectable! They are also not bad in the rain. I've driven to Carlisle a few times now ( 7 1/2 hours each way) and got caught in a bad rain storm on the way home once.
Thanks Brad, yeah we messaged each other about sizes a while back. I liked them on your car!
Quote from: anlauto on August 13, 2022, 06:57:08 PM
Great Brad...blow the surprise for everyone else... :P I like the "?" rims :))
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO :worship: ....I'm glad to see you got power tools now...the video is shorter... :haha: :haha: :haha:
Thanks Alan, yeah the wife got me the driver for my Bday last month. I don't know how I lived without it lol. Making vids now 10% shorter at least :D
I have a couple projects that I need to do on the car where I will need it up in the air but the weight of the car on the wheels. I decided to build some wheel cribs. I like the race ramps but didn't want to pay up for them. Fortunately my Dad has a bunch of lumber he offered up from a past project. They came out real nice and not even a break or flex when I put the car on them. Was just a touch nervous honestly 😂
I have to admit that things have taken longer than I would have liked the past couple months...but I decided to do all the welding which isn't much really myself on the car. I need to weld in the subframe connectors and rear sway bar mounts. I never really learned how to weld but decided I would put in the time and talk to people, watch some youtube videos and see if I could gain confidence to do this myself. I have learned a lot and it has been fun yet challenging and frustrating at times and I have made some progress. Some welds and angles are much more challenging than others.
This is my second video....the first you is on my channel but really shows how much I sucked in the beginning...now I just suck less :))
Happy to say I just finished welding in the first sub frame connector tonight and it went pretty good.
Man does it feel good to get this project done. Thus is the last piece I needed to install...now I can focus on getting this thing aligned so I can start driving it.
Overall the rear sway bar went on fine. I did notice I tried installing based on being able to read the sticker on the bar ...but alas that ended up having the bar upside down :( After flipping it over I could tell that was the correct way.
Finally getting the car on the road after this years big projects! Just in time for winter lol.
Scheduled an appointment to get the car aligned at a local shop that has a good reputation and does a lot of work on old cars. They did a good job and hit my target numbers. Car drives great and my steering wheel is finally straight.
Wanted to make a video and discuss alignment settings from what the manual says as well as more modem settings and what I ended up choosing
As the driving season is just about over here in MI I was able to get things sorted out and and spend some time to do a review of the suspension, brakes & wheels and tires. Many have asked me about my thoughts after the upgrades so I thought it would be fun to make another video and try and relay my thoughts on what the car is like....and a good excuse to get it out for some fun!
This one was a lot of fun to make, had some help from some friends...tons of editing...
AWESOME :veryexcited:
Great job! :clapping: Well built car! As you mentioned warm weather will be very different. I found traction to be drastically different in summer weather. I also noticed as the tires aged out that they do not grip as well as when they were new. I was quite surprised how well they performed in rain, much better than I expected.
I'm currently using Falken Azenis 615k and they are 8-10? years old now and need to be replaced.
So don't be shy go use them up and get some miles on it next summer! :burnout:
Very nice! Thanks for sharing your journey on this. What you did is probably what a lot of guys/gals want to do!
Wes
Quote from: anlauto on December 10, 2022, 06:09:25 AM
AWESOME :veryexcited:
Thanks Alan!
Quote from: Brads70 on December 10, 2022, 06:43:28 AM
Great job! :clapping: Well built car! As you mentioned warm weather will be very different. I found traction to be drastically different in summer weather. I also noticed as the tires aged out that they do not grip as well as when they were new. I was quite surprised how well they performed in rain, much better than I expected.
I'm currently using Falken Azenis 615k and they are 8-10? years old now and need to be replaced.
So don't be shy go use them up and get some miles on it next summer! :burnout:
Thanks Brad, thanks for being open when we discussed wheels and sizes. I will definately not hold driving her now to save the tires thats for sure!
Quote from: moparcar on December 10, 2022, 11:06:55 AM
Very nice! Thanks for sharing your journey on this. What you did is probably what a lot of guys/gals want to do!
Wes
Thanks Wes, I appreciate and feel very fortunate
So what's the future hold as far as more videos ?
Quote from: anlauto on December 10, 2022, 02:47:05 PM
So what's the future hold as far as more videos ?
Yeah good question, I Have more small projects to do and maintenance work I was thinking doing videos of. I probably won't copy these here unless I think they bring value to this site though. Was thinking of doing videos of cruising & driving/car events I want to do in the future. See how those are received go from there.
Fantastic video great car thank you :australia:
So the car is "finished" :huh: Yea...right, they're never finished ;)
Thanks for posting up the vids.
Built yourself a solid one for the driving pleasure.
Any specific outing plans for it next summer?
Quote from: anlauto on December 11, 2022, 11:14:48 AM
So the car is "finished" :huh: Yea...right, they're never finished ;)
oh thats for sure...I already ordered the Dapper oe look led lights on black friday, probably wait and install those in spring though. I want to put a stereo in the car, I have new door panels I bought from Cody a year ago waiting to go in, I put a nice scratch on the header panel last spring which I want to fix and its a painful reminder of a bad day lol and more little things....def. never done :D
Quote from: YellowThumper on December 11, 2022, 02:32:06 PM
Thanks for posting up the vids.
Built yourself a solid one for the driving pleasure.
Any specific outing plans for it next summer?
I plan to do a few of the Detroit Region auto X events next year. I have ran that series in the past with newer cars....so that is a goal to do with this car. There are a couple of smaller road courses within 20 min. of me that I have been on before and would love to get the car on as well, just for fun. But thats a much bigger risk as well....we'll see how things go. I have concerns about oil starvation with extended high rpm driving....could always add a oil accumulator but we'll see.
Thought it would be fun to drive across the state to some events / show like the https://gilmorecarmuseum.org/events/mopars-at-the-red-barns-2
but my car is def. not a show car and I hate people picking it apart...the body is a 10ft er for sure. But it would be fun to drive and video all that I thought.
Would like to get to the Holley Moparty event too....although the last couple years it has always landed on a weekend my son has a big sporting event so hasn't worked out. Would be fun to drive the car to that and again video it all...but a little nervous about road tripping that far to be honest. I don't have a trailer either so hauling the car anywhere is not a option at the moment.
Nice car, excellent craftsmanship, great attention to the details.
I would like to know the sizes of the rims/tires and make tires.
I am not interested in watching your video to try to find the answer.
It is alleged I have been to the road course more than several times. A 4 square tire set up allows the car to rotate thru the radius of the turn effectively & the car drives/rides better on 4 square. I'm fine with your choices just sharing lot's of experience. If you do track the car an accusump will prevent push-rod cup wear and valve spring fatiguing then fracturing. The rocker arm oiling is is 1st place that looses oil when the gauge heads towards zero in the turns under heavy braking. I found out the hard way.
Quote from: Ebody Edgar on December 17, 2022, 04:12:43 AM
Nice car, excellent craftsmanship, great attention to the details.
I would like to know the sizes of the rims/tires and make tires.
I am not interested in watching your video to try to find the answer.
It is alleged I have been to the road course more than several times. A 4 square tire set up allows the car to rotate thru the radius of the turn effectively & the car drives/rides better on 4 square. I'm fine with your choices just sharing lot's of experience. If you do track the car an accusump will prevent push-rod cup wear and valve spring fatiguing then fracturing. The rocker arm oiling is is 1st place that looses oil when the gauge heads towards zero in the turns under heavy braking. I found out the hard way.
Thanks I appreciate it!
Front is 18 x 9.5 with 275 35 18
Rear is 18 x 11 with 295 40 18
I know a lot of auto x guys try and run a square set up. I thought I would be better off with more tire in the rear for traction but honestly the car is not built solely for the track. I am ok if its not optimized for the track but I hope to dial it in to where its very good on track.
I will have to think where I could put a accusump where its out of the way. I really don't want right right in the middle of the engine bay. trying to keep the engine bay very clean/simple.
i appreciate the feedback.
Autocross/drag racing is child's-play...road course separates the men from the boys.
Nothing like a bad ass V8 howling at the moon like a wolf for minutes not seconds
The car is stored and now I have time to think about a few small projects this winter.
A year ago I was able to score a set of Metro Red door panels for my car from Cuda Cody...just happened to be on FB right when he posted and I was first to respond. Feel really fortunate on this one. I haven't even opened the box until now as I had plenty of other projects this past year.
They look so nice! I made a comparison video of these compared to the ones that were in the car. There were original door panels but not for this car as they were died. I always thought they were too dark and you can really see the difference of these vs the new ones.
I am going to try and die the front kick panels to match....thankfully legendary had a set of red armrests...last set and shipped me those. So that's what I will be working on the next few weeks.
Getting the interior looking better!
Great Video Wayne....The black panels are likely newer, that's why they have less clips along the bottom.
For red paint, I would try Herbs Paints :twothumbsup:
Thanks Al I appreciate it. Have a can of Herbs that I tried on the covers fir my Sun visors but it was more orange.
When I was talking to legendary last week he said he had 1 set of red armrests in stock .... So I jumped on that. They came in today and I couldn't believe how far off they are from my door panels. This is so frustrating. I have tried all 3 shades from sem and the one from herbs... I can't get a great match to these panels.
Have to think about this one...,
These cars were never "All one shade" of red from the factory....vinyl would be different from plastic, from metal etc....but that really sucks that it so far off...maybe have it custom mixed and put into a spray bomb ?
My doors didn't have the moisture barrier on them....was going to just install some 6 mil film but saw that Dynamat has a custom door kit for E-bodies and thought I would give that a try. Have always wanted to try / use their product. Being custom cut really saved on installation time. I had to make a small adjustment for my crank arm in the Dynamat but it was easy to trim. Everything else lined up great. It comes with material strips for the outer skin too. Being winter I have driven the car yet but just opening and closing the door and banging on the inner door it sounds so solid now. Really impressed.
Made another video reviewing the product and of the installation.
Another good video Wayne, but I do have a couple of comments this time....
First, there are reproduction vapor barriers available through Performance Car Graphics, and have been available for years: https://www.performancecargraphics.com/Door_Stuff/Moisture_Barrier.htm
Secondly, not sure if you addressed in the video, but the reason you had to trim the window crank hole, is because you bought the "challenger" set, as per your picture of the website at the beginning, and Challenger and Cudas have different window crank locations. :alan2cents:
:drinkingbud:
Hey Alan glad you enjoyed it. I did a search for the vapor barrier and nothing came up for me.... I hate making errors in my videos. I certainly don't claim to be an expert. I will as a note to the video description. The Dynamat only has one kit though for the ebodies.
Please don't take it as criticism, more as "fact checking" :rofl: There's so much incorrect information on people's YouTube videos, that you would hate to be steering people in the wrong direction....
I went on Dynamat's website just now and although the door kit is not "really" mislabeled, it does say it's for a Challenger E Body, and doesn't mention Cuda, Interestingly enough, the rear parcel shelf is labeled Challenger/Cuda E Body, which would be wrong because they have two different shapes :brainiac:
https://www.dynamatstore.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=9
The idea of the kits is great, I do wonder how it prices out per sq/ft against their bulk kits :thinking:
Oh its all good, I didn't take it as criticism. I appreciate the fact checking. Like I said I had now idea.
Does anyone know why this hole has a key way in it, driver side panel. I checked my mirror adjuster twice now and I don't see why I can't be just a hole but now I'm curious.
I'm currently prepping my new door panels for installation.
Do you have the square clip that supports the backside of the remote ? I has a location tab on it, although not very usefull :alan2cents:
Doesn't look like it. Are they reproduced?
Thanks sir
That big nut actually does the job better, you can just tighten it up in the position that you want. :dunno: but yes the clip is available in reproduction
Chipping away at the interior project this winter. Just finished up the front door panel assembly. Very happy with how they turned out. I ended up dying the new Legendary armrests to get a closer match to the new door panels. I ended up doing a blend of the SEM bright red and then top coating with OER red. The OER is a close match to the original color....but i've found the new metro panels are not the exact shade of the original red based on the red panels I have.
Cleaned up the arm rest brackets and cups...the panels have one correct metal cup and one plastic cup. Wasn't going to chase done the correct metal cup and just cleaned up and dyed what I had.
Getting closer.
The screws should have been black :bigthumb:
ahh lol, Good to know. But I am leaving them red ;)
I'm sure I'm the only one will ever know
Since I have been driving the car more now and the interior was mostly out....i figured now was a good time to put in a stereo. Being stock didn't interest me so I decided to go with an aftermarket bluetooth single din headunit with 6 x 9's in the back. I figure when I have the dash pad redone then I could look at adding a front speaker.
The head unit is a Sony with a built in amp...it had really good reviews. I decided to no go with a CD player just bluetooth tuner.
The speakers are 160 watt Focal, again I am no audio expert but they had great reviews.
https://www.sony.com/za/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/dsx-gs80
https://www.focal.com/uk/car-audio-kits-solutions/auditor/rcx-690
Also picked up some new wire crimps from Amazon for like 30 bucks and was real happy with them. I am real happy with the sound and fit. I did have to trim my lower dash piece just a hair which I wasn't thrilled with but o well.
Ever since installing the PG classics tuff wheel and spending some time behind the wheel I realized something seemed a little off. The steering wheel rim diameter is quite small and honestly wasn't very comfortable in my hands and didn't give me the driving feel I was looking for. I came across a company called craft customs https://craftcustoms.com/ They do a custom wheel repair and restoration. I reached out to them and they said they could add thicker padding to my wheel and wrap in leather. Currently it was vinyl. So I sent it off to them and in a few weeks later I had it back and was really impressed.
Originally the wheel was 1" cross section rim diameter. The thickest they could get it was 1.25" Which was a very nice & noticeable difference. Plus, the feel of the leather is a big improvement.
Overall, I'm really happy with what they did and happy with it.
Here is an after picture
I made a short video reviewing the wheel showing before and after for those interested.
Last winter I was hoping to reupholster my rear seat but there was a long wait unknown to me at the time. I went ahead and ordered them in January.....and look what just showed up :banana:
Great to see more videos Wayne :drinkingbud: