Starting my resto thread here, I have one over at cc.com also, started in 2014 with some more pictures.
I will summarize the work done so far here:
My car had a 340/727, was planning to keep that for a while but found a Hemi and sold the 340 right after I got it back from the
machine shop will all new parts.
Current state is that the body is sandblasted and 2K primed. I'm in the process of adding the US Cartool inner fender braces and radiator support. Will also change the trunk floor and extensions. I decided to paint it black, it is FC7 now.
Focusing on the body and driveline now, paint and interior will come later.
Engine/Transmission
6.1 Hemi from a -06 Charger with a NAG1 Tranny
Harness and computers from Hotwire Auto
Tank with pump from Tanks Inc.
Radiator, TTi headers, Oil filter adapter, motor mounts, PS pump from Bouchillion.
Body reinforcement
Kit from US Car Tool, subframe connectors, inner fender braces, Core support.
Suspension Parts from Firmfeel
HD Street/Road Race/Track leaf springs
Suspension Rebuild Kit
Upper Control Arms
Front Sway Bar Kit 1-1/8
Rear Sway Bar Kit 3/4" (AAR/TA design)
1.00 Torsion Bar: HD/ Street app
LCA reinforcement plates
LCA Greasable Pivot Pins
Bilstein Shocks
Selector support kit
Fast ratio pitman arm
Fast ratio idler arm
Firmfeel steering Stage II
K-frame reinforcement plates
Drum spindles (used)
Brakes
Wilwood front Kit 12.88 6 piston
Wilwood rear kit
Hydraboost system
Wilwood Master Cylinder
Rear Axle Parts from DrDiff
Green bearings
8 3/4 Third Member 3:55
Pinion snubber & Seals
Exhaust
TTI headers
Dynomax Mufflers
new 2,5 TTI exhaust system
Misc
AC system Vintage Air
Canvas Top kit w. glass window
New Instruments (bought a Rally dash on e-bay, will either get it done by Redline or put Speedhut gagues in it)
The NAG1 has the starter on the passenger side, and there is no headers made for that combination (if you wanna go stock style suspansion w. T-bars) so I found a bellhousing from a Jeep Grand Cherokee, that has a Hemi/NAG1 with the starter on the driver side, that way the TTI headers that are made for a Hemi/727 will fit. I also got a Jeep Cherokee starter.
My latest progress is that I got the bottom end done with the oil pickup and a Milodon oil pan. Got the wrong pickup, so I had to cut it and reclock it so it would fit. Used the old spashguard/oil pan gasket. Got new bolts for the 2 main cap bearings that needs to be swapped, since I got both the advide to reuse the old bolts and to get new ones because they could snap if reused.
WOW Ken, you're building a Bully! Going to be an awesome car when you get done! :clapping: Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing more photos. Make a video of your first burnout. :yes:
Great work Ken. :veryexcited:
Looking great! :bradsthumb:
Thanks guys! It started here, in 1979, my first e-body. Had 7 of them since. Spun a couple of main bearings in that burnout...
I'm waiting to see the sound system in that thing when it's finished. :popcorn:
Quote from: soundcontrol on January 18, 2017, 01:01:58 PM
Got the wrong pickup, so I had to cut it and reclock it so it would fit.
I had to do this exact same thing to the pickup tube. The Milodon part number changed to #18341 for the 2009 and later Hemi's. I've heard of guys waiting for months for this part BTW.
Started with the inner fender braces. There's a Whole Lotta Grinding Going On here...
Had to add some material also. I'm also painting the area under the pieces I'm welding, gonna do the same inside the big fender brace.
After welding I'm gonna apply Eastwood internal frame coating to cover the welds.
Unfortunately I found some more rust that even the sandblasting did not reveal. Someone had put a big chunk of weld on top of it, when I tried to grind it down to make it look nice I found rust, and I could poke a hole in it. Its in the corner area of the cowl, glad I did that, that will eventaully had rusted through and caused a leak in the inner firewall. So now I gotta fix that before I can continue with the fender braces. Looks lika a tricky part to make a patch for, I also gotta repair the top overlapping part of the upper cowl. Oh well, I'm up for the challenge.
You're doing a fantastic job man!!!!! :clapping: You must be so proud of the way it's turning out. :yes:
So any idea of what you're going to do for a sound system? ;)
Quote from: Cuda Cody on January 20, 2017, 10:19:45 AM
You're doing a fantastic job man!!!!! :clapping: You must be so proud of the way it's turning out. :yes:
So any idea of what you're going to do for a sound system? ;)
It's very hard in a convertible, no room for good speakers, I got a 5 channel poweramp already, I'm gonna build something in the trunk for subwoofers, and use the 3 speaker dash for tweeters, and also possible add speakers in the kick panels. It wont be perfect though, I would like 6x9"s but I will not cut my rear panels, or the door panels.
Fixing the rust, looks simple, but it was really hard to make that corner patch, to get the top curve right and fitting OK, thats my second attempt, first one failed. Have to weld some from the inside of the car, since the upper cut is inside the cowl area. The overlapping piece, corner of the upper cowl is gonna be even harder, has a curved ridge in it.
Looks really good from here! :clapping: Takes a lot of time, but when it's done it will be awesome and rust free super solid!
I made a tool to press a straight ridge, any suggestions on how to make a curved ridge, for the overlapping piece?
Thats a good tool, I will get those, not for this, but for my next project. This ridge is like the one I made in the trunk patch, (before I decided to change the whole trunk floor), but it has a curve in it. I made a tool to press that.
Nice patch! And then you didn't even use it? Just replaced the whole thing?
I think a combination of an English wheel and then a Bead Roller could to the trick. But not sure it's worth buying those just for a small job. You seem to be advanced level at figuring out workarounds! :clapping:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on January 29, 2017, 02:08:27 PM
Nice patch! And then you didn't even use it? Just replaced the whole thing?
I think a combination of an English wheel and then a Bead Roller could to the trick. But not sure it's worth buying those just for a small job. You seem to be advanced level at figuring out workarounds! :clapping:
Thanks! Yeah, I did that patch before sandblasting, after that some parts of the trunk floor was pitted and thin, so I decided to replace it completely. I'll try to make one with the tools I have. We'll see if I succeed :thinking:
Made a patch today, used the tool I made and a press, then added the curved part by taking a large bolt, cut it and rounded the end, used it with a hammer and a sandbag. It's not perfect, looks a bit bumpy but I think it will do. And, its gonna be under the inner fender braces, never to be seen again. If this was a V-code stock resto, I would get new parts.
Quote from: soundcontrol on January 30, 2017, 03:49:29 PM
Made a patch today, used the tool I made and a press, then added the curved part by taking a large bolt, cut it and rounded the end, used it with a hammer and a sandbag. It's not perfect, looks a bit bumpy but I think it will do. And, its gonna be under the inner fender braces, never to be seen again. If this was a V-code stock resto, I would get new parts.
That's nice work . :bigthumb:
Really nice Job ken! That's going to fit nice and will be nice clean solid metal. Superb work making that from a bolt, hammer and sandbag! :clapping:
Oh shit...I just bought another Hemi, a low milage 5.7 from a truck with all accessories. For the next project, couldn't help myself...
Nice find! How did you come across that deal?
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 05, 2017, 04:13:38 AM
Oh shit...I just bought another Hemi, a low milage 5.7 from a truck with all accessories. For the next project, couldn't help myself...
Quote from: Cuda Cody on February 05, 2017, 08:14:01 AM
Nice find! How did you come across that deal?
I saw an ad online, so easy to buy stuff now, just a click and you bought a Hemi... :D
They don't come around so often in Sweden, and shipping from US is expensive. So I figured, better to buy it now, even if my other car is years away from needing an engine. I decided though, new Hemi and a stock manual tranny.
Just finished that corner, not perfect, but I'm getting better! Just gotta grind down the last weld on top.
Nice work Ken. :cooldance:
Great job Ken!!!!!! :clapping: It's looking really good. :twothumbsup:
That looks great! :bravo:
Can anyone tell me what thickess the stock pans has, floor, trunk, firewall, inner fenders. And does the outer body panels has the same thickness?
Only a guess, but I would think no thicker then 18 gauge and most likely 20 gauge. I don't have any cars in bare metal right now so I can't get an accurate number. And I use a lot of clear so I'm not the best guy to give out numbers. :D
Can you measure some of your old pieces? If you want I can find a repop piece and measure it, but not sure it means much because it's not original? :notsure:
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 06, 2017, 12:28:36 PM
Can anyone tell me what thickess the stock pans has, floor, trunk, firewall, inner fenders. And does the outer body panels has the same thickness?
I have been measuring some, I measure in metric, than I have to convert, "Gauge" is not used here. When I measure I get something slightly less then 19 gauge, (but the car is sandblasted). I have been using 1.2mm, that is slightly thinner than 18 gauge. I was concerned with the slight diference in thickness, read that I should use exactly the same thickness to prevent the pieces to shrink differently. I do have an AMD trunkfloor I can measure, did not think that far....thanks!
Nice fabrications skills. I'm jealous of people like you. :bigthumb:
Finally got the right side almost done with the inner fender brace, biggest time consuming thing was the little rust that had to be fixed before, and making a sliding nut for the hood hinge. I just tack welded the underside for now, I will weld that up when the car gets back in the rotisserie, since I suck at welding from under. Painted the inside of the brace and all the areas I cant get to later with 2K epoxy primer and a black top coat. Now on to the driver side!
Freaking awesome work!!!! :bradsthumb:
:ohyeah:
Gonna change the trunkfloor soon, have a 2 piece AMD, with extensions. Whats best, to keep the car on the rollers or do it in the rotisserie?
I like to do trunk and for that matter any metal replacement with the car on a jig or dollies that picks up frame rails and supports the body well. That way the body is secure when replacing structurally metal. The rotisserie can put stress in the middle of the car when you release body panels. A truck would probably be fine, but if you have a good jig just use that. :alan2cents:
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 19, 2017, 05:06:58 AM
Gonna change the trunkfloor soon, have a 2 piece AMD, with extensions. Whats best, to keep the car on the rollers or do it in the rotisserie?
Starting on the drivers side, same rust spot, but a little less of it. Made the first patch. That little hole, in Pict 1, I cut it out in Pict 2, I assume is for the insulation, since I'm gonna use Dynamat or similar, I just didn't drill it again.
You should be proud. You're really making sure very little piece of rust is gone! :clapping:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on February 20, 2017, 07:04:42 AM
You should be proud. You're really making sure very little piece of rust is gone! :clapping:
Don't like rust! Just the thought of what my framerails looks like inside is keeping me up at night.... 8)
I will get to the rear rails inside when I remove the trunk floor, and I'm gonna figure out a way to clean the fronts as good as I can, then I got many cans of Eastwood internal frame coating to apply
Driver side rust fixed. I cheated a bit, didn't taper down that ridge as I did on the other side since I discovered that it was just in the way for the inner fender brace, fits better if I just keep it straight.
Nice work Ken. :ohyeah: :woohoo:
Almost done with the drivers side now, just gotta weld it up, first I gotta fix an exhaust system for the garage because the ventilation in there is bad and its small, when I weld for long the air gets extremely bad in there. Got the parts, (long vent pipe in the car, a hose and a big powerful fan), gonna build it tomorrow.
Not super happy with the fitment of the inner fender braces, can the cars really be so different that I have to ad 1/2" of material in places and grind off 1/2" in other places...?
:clapping: Looks like you're making good progress each day. Nicely done.
I think there was some pretty wide margins for error when they build cars back in the 70's. :wrenching:
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 24, 2017, 02:43:16 PM
Not super happy with the fitment of the inner fender braces, can the cars really be so different that I have to ad 1/2" of material in places and grind off 1/2" in other places...?
I had a similar experience with those parts. In the end, the parts worked, but nothing really "fit" out of the box....at all...
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on February 24, 2017, 08:29:28 PM
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 24, 2017, 02:43:16 PM
Not super happy with the fitment of the inner fender braces, can the cars really be so different that I have to ad 1/2" of material in places and grind off 1/2" in other places...?
I had a similar experience with those parts. In the end, the parts worked, but nothing really "fit" out of the box....at all...
:iagree: Same thing here.....
Nice progress
On a side note, there are small inexpensive cameras you could buy to snake into the rails both front and back to see what the extent of the damage is. Take it from someone who went further than he wanted to.
Quote from: HP_Cuda on February 25, 2017, 10:19:59 AM
Nice progress
On a side note, there are small inexpensive cameras you could buy to snake into the rails both front and back to see what the extent of the damage is. Take it from someone who went further than he wanted to.
Thanks! Yep, I got one of those, have not used it yet though. I found a nice wire brush that is about the size of the framerail inside, its made for cleaning out sut in channels in fireplaces, gonna use that to get loose rust out and then use Eastwoods internal frame coating.
Inner fender braces done! Moving on to the lower radiator support, fitment issues there also, I assume the brace is most effective if it has direct contact with the frame rails, makes no sense welding them to the stock radiator support flaps that are just spotwelded to the frame with2 spots, (Pict 2).
So I cut those off and welded the stock support direct to the framerail, that way the new brace will be welded direct to the framerail.
Pict 3 is the very best TIG weld I ever done welding upside down :unbelievable:, before grinding, I just cant get them to look nice in that position....
That car is going to be very tight! :)
Got the lower ratiator support in place. I ended up removing all the spotwelds for the stock support to frame and tuck that back, so the new one could be welded direct to the frame instead of to the spotwelded flaps for the stock support. Then I will weld the stock support back from the inside. I just tackwelded it for now, will weld it up when I get the car back in the rotisserie so I can get in a good position.
You are leaving nothing to chance. This thing is going to be TIGHT! Are you planning on racing it? :)
Quote from: Cuda Cody on March 04, 2017, 10:07:58 AM
You are leaving nothing to chance. This thing is going to be TIGHT! Are you planning on racing it? :)
No, my racing days are over, used to street race a bit in the 80's but this is gonna be my summer daily driver.
Fixed the ugly ass patch under the battery today. Have a few of those here and there to fix, I wonder why people don't just do it right the first time instead of cutting corners... :notsure:
Did not drill the holes for the battery tray yet, since I'm not 100% sure that the battery will go there.
Sweet job! Let me know if you want me to see if I can get you a hole location for the battery tray mount hole? :slapme5:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on March 09, 2017, 04:13:43 PM
Sweet job! Let me know if you want me to see if I can get you a hole location for the battery tray mount hole? :slapme5:
Thanks, but I'm saving the old piece for that, if needed, it got the holes. Gonna try to keep the battery in it's place, most Hemi swaps move it to the trunk, I don't like that.
Love seeing all this metal work. :veryexcited: There's something about fixing rust that makes me happy.
Dang battery acid, never is kind to metal. :Thud:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on March 10, 2017, 08:39:05 AM
Love seeing all this metal work. :veryexcited: There's something about fixing rust that makes me happy.
Me too. I come home from a whole day of welding and grinding and I just sit down and watch Youtube videos of other people welding and grinding....my wife thinks I'm crazy.
Now I have 2 spots on the sides of the radiator support that previous owner just welded over rust holes, (they did not cut out the bad parts, just ugly welds over the rust). I thinks thats a common spot for rust on the Challengers also, seen it on many cars. Since the sides are a bit bumpy, I'm cutting out more than just the rust spots on the left side, that big square hole, is that for the harness to the lights? I forgot, and didn't take a picture of it assembled. I actually cut that out also, cut more after I took the picture.
Quote from: Brads70 on March 10, 2017, 07:29:28 AM
I had the same issue on mine when I first got it. Pretty common spot to rot out.
You got the holes all nice and stock looking, I wonder why there is so many, I think there is 2 bolts there right?
Those oval long longs are normally for clips that are used to hold the fenders on. :alan2cents:
Quote from: soundcontrol on March 10, 2017, 03:26:13 PM
Quote from: Cuda Cody on March 10, 2017, 08:39:05 AM
Love seeing all this metal work. :veryexcited: There's something about fixing rust that makes me happy.
Me too. I come home from a whole day of welding and grinding and I just sit down and watch Youtube videos of other people welding and grinding....my wife thinks I'm crazy.
Now I have 2 spots on the sides of the radiator support that previous owner just welded over rust holes, (they did not cut out the bad parts, just ugly welds over the rust). I thinks thats a common spot for rust on the Challengers also, seen it on many cars. Since the sides are a bit bumpy, I'm cutting out more than just the rust spots on the left side, that big square hole, is that for the harness to the lights? I forgot, and didn't take a picture of it assembled. I actually cut that out also, cut more after I took the picture.
Very impressive skills with the fabrication and rust repair. I'm fortunate that my needed little fabrication and what it did need was done by my best friend who is a paint and body man. Otherwise, I would have been in a land of hurt. :crying:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on March 10, 2017, 05:19:03 PM
Those oval long longs are normally for clips that are used to hold the fenders on. :alan2cents:
Clips are for bolting the battery tray to the fender.
Done with the front radiator support repairs, came out pretty good, need minimal amounts of filler before paint, (don't know if I will decide to box in the upper radiator support yet, we'll see). The TIG is working out pretty good for me, even though everyone says I should really use a MIG. I don't put in a lot of heat, use 25 amps and pulse mode (to 10 amps), no big warps of the panels, and it's pretty quick to weld the panels up. I will borrow a MIG next week to change the trunk floor though, the plug welding is probably easier with it. I can do great spot welds with the TIG, but only of the panels are super clean, really tight and if I get a copper piece behind the weld, and that ain't happening everywhere. And I decided to improve on the Mopar way of only spot welding the sides to the upper support so I welded the whole upper edge.
Nice job!!!! :wrenching:
Quote from: JS29 on March 20, 2017, 08:43:30 AM
Nice job!!!! :wrenching:
:iagree: :perfect10: :bradsthumb:
Nice job man! :banana: Glad to see the TIG is working well for you. I spent a few days at Walden Speed Shop and he's a be TIG guy. He was showing me a few tips on TIG welding and I was really getting in to it. I could see if I was a little better with TIG I would use it a lot more. Always more then one way to do it. And the way you're doing looks great.
https://www.waldenspeedshop.com/
Quote from: soundcontrol on March 19, 2017, 02:29:54 PM
The TIG is working out pretty good for me, even though everyone says I should really use a MIG.
Nice job! I've got to learn how to weld one of these days! :bricks:
Quote from: usraptor on March 27, 2017, 04:17:53 PM
Nice job! I've got to learn how to weld one of these days! :bricks:
I bought a TIG in 2014, got a Master Youtube Degree now! :haha:
Love it though, shaping and welding metal is both relaxing and rewarding.
I'm not a total newbie to it, I did go to a welding night school when I was 18, gas and stick welding, and I've been using a MIG every now and then, the TIG is very similar to gas welding.
I fixed another ugly repair on the inner fender today. I also discovered that the factory missed a few spotwelds so the inner fender bracket on the driver side was not connected to the framerail, just hanging loose. Fixed that also.
Looks much better! Good job.
Next fix is this. I wonder if I should wait until its back in the rotisserie though, (for better access inside) they ugly-patched the cowl like this but did not repair the holes behind it in the firewall. Might be better to cut this out, but then fix the firewall behind it before I patch this up again?
That can be a tough one to get behind there. Since it's so small and you already know you'll have it back on the rotisserie it might be best to wait. :alan2cents:
It never ceases to amaze me as to what some people call body work/repairs. :headbang: I'm glad you're doing it right. :wrenching: :twothumbsup:
I welded up all the holes I don't need now, not sure about a few of the wire clips holes, but I left them just in case, if I don't use them its not the end of the world.
Looks great Ken. :banana: Getting close to paint? What's left to do?
Good job!!! Looks very nice :perfect10:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on April 12, 2017, 07:13:43 AM
Looks great Ken. :banana: Getting close to paint? What's left to do?
Gonna turn it around now and start changing the trunk floor and extensions. I have to get it out and turn it outside and there a big 63 Ford Galaxie in the way, maybe we can get that out during easter now. After that its back on the rotisserie to fix the front torque boxes, weld some stuff I left out because of access, and modify the T-bar crossmember for the NAG1 tranny. And the big decision to cut and re-weld the quarters or not.... (see my thread about that one). Then it's painting time, all under and inside.
Dang someone's going to town on their build. Thanks for the engine bay photos of the holes you filled in.
Keep up the great work.
GO KEN GO :woohoo:
Looks great. You have done a great job so far keep it up
Working on the trunkfloor now, was gonna take the car outside and sandblast the insides of the framerails today, but as soon as I got it out it started snowing! It's April, spring! GRRR.... :verymad:
Just to roll it back in again.
Had to test fit the AMD panels though, seems to fit well.
Found another bad spot I did not see before, passanger side corner between the quarter and the light bar panel. Rust at the edge of the lightbar panel flange, I wonder why they didn't fix this while changing the quarter skins...
Better weather today, blasted and 2K epoxy'd the inside of frame rails and the top of the rear shockmont, so nice to get access to these parts and make them rust free and protected.
Thanks for the updates!!!! Nice work like always. You're making great progress. :banana:
Been using a copper piece with magnets on the sides for backing while welding up holes etc. My TIG goes bananas when close to a powerful magnet, the arc just bounce around. So I made this tool today, I copied an Eastwood design that I saw in a YT video. Now the magnet gets far away from the welding point. Works great.
Pretty slick! :twothumbsup: I like it.
How do I get the paint and bondo off the quarters without making a mess in the garage? I bought some paint stripper, didn't work, maybe I didn't wait long enough, or put enough of it on.... gonna try again. Cant grind inside, even with a sander that has a vacuum connection, it gets dusty. Any other way?
Don't think paint stripper will do much good on bondo. Sanding it always makes a mess, but it's kinda the best way to get it off.
Heat gun and scraper but it's really really slow
Quote from: A.Gramz on April 27, 2017, 03:27:36 PM
Heat gun and scraper but it's really really slow
Thanks, gonna try that, I just need to clean off some weld area. I can sand off the whole quarter later outside. But I can't get the car out right now, and it's stopping my progress.
Ken, been a while since I checked on your progress. Once again, I'm very impressed and jealous of your skills. I would have given up a long time ago. Keep up the good work and the updates coming!
Quote from: usraptor on April 28, 2017, 07:37:53 AM
Ken, been a while since I checked on your progress. Once again, I'm very impressed and jealous of your skills. I would have given up a long time ago. Keep up the good work and the updates coming!
Thanks! I'm getting skills as I go :)
Lets see if I give up and let someone else paint if later, or if I will attempt that one also.
Decided to cut out the quarters. I have new skins, hopefully they will fit. Feel nice to get to the areas behind there, so I can sandblast and protect it. I am going to change the outer wheelhouses. First some repairs on the inner wheelhouses. Redoing some ugly patches from previous owners.
Great work so far. It's really coming together and when finished with be a testament to your skill n hard work.
I linked my CC.com thread to this one, gonna continue just here, because its so much work to resize every picture to fit CC.com.
And since most of the admins here are admins there also, I hope that it was OK.
If not... :sorry:
And here is the link to my CC thread if anyone wants to see it from the start:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=102525.new#new
The detail and lever of repair you are doing. Going to be an awesome car when it's done!!!!! :banana: Nice job so far buddy.
Fixing the wheelhouses, it was kinda tricky, takes a lot of time. There is 3 parts that meets there on the convertibles, and a major rust area. I did not know what it supposed to look like because someone just cut it out and put a big ugly patch covering everything, but I found some good pictures of the area on Alan's website, so now I know!
I always think that my welds are not good enough, and work a lot to get them perfect, than I turned around and looked at the factory welds......reality check!! (Picture 3) :haha:
Can't beat a friday night in the garage with a Hemi and a couple of Trashy Blondes! :D
I know what you mean... Can't tell you how many times I see factory original welds and :barf:
Quote from: soundcontrol on May 07, 2017, 11:56:31 AM
I always think that my welds are not good enough, and work a lot to get them perfect, than I turned around and looked at the factory welds......reality check!! (Picture 3) :haha:
Checked my rear framerails and inside the rockers today with a small USB camera. Looks very good for a 47 year old car! I'm gonna use Eastwoods Internal frame coating in these areas. Picture of rocker is from the rear, a little surface rust 4-5" in the back, thats all. I wirebrushed the area and used some rust converter on it.
The black stuff in the video is blasting media, gotta get it out somehow.
Technology is so cool.
Eastwood Internal Frame coating inside the rockers. I wanted to do this before I cover up the end of the rocker with the new wheelhouse so I could see if it covers good. And it does! Applies very nicely, I can't see a spot thats not covered. Hose nozzle is a bit too short for the rockers though so I put 2 of them together on a straightened out a wire clothes hanger and fastened it on, so it got some support. Did one round from the rear and one from the front, there is a hole in the front in to the rocker.
Looks like it covered everything nicely. :twothumbsup:
Hadn't checked this thread in awhile... Couple things... Up front some of the holes you filled need to be put back... Up on the radiator yoke there are bolts to mount the front fenders... Missing.... Probably should put those back.. (Assuming you want fenders)
On the battery area, original battery trays had a drain hole & the same location on the inner fender had a drain hole, Some earlier B bodies actually have a rubber hole with a formed flange/grommet that snapped into the tray keeping an fluid that leaks off the sheet metal..
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on May 18, 2017, 12:28:16 PM
Hadn't checked this thread in awhile... Couple things... Up front some of the holes you filled need to be put back... Up on the radiator yoke there are bolts to mount the front fenders... Missing.... Probably should put those back.. (Assuming you want fenders)
On the battery area, original battery trays had a drain hole & the same location on the inner fender had a drain hole, Some earlier B bodies actually have a rubber hole with a formed flange/grommet that snapped into the tray keeping an fluid that leaks off the sheet metal..
Oops! Yeah, kinda forgot about those up front....fenders would be nice. :) Thanks!
The battery tray, was gonna wait and see if I can fit the battery there or if I have to put it in the trunk. I would like to keep it in it's place but I see most Hemi swaps puts the airfilter there. I was gonna test some other solutions for the airfilter in order to keep the battery in the engine compartment. The rubber grommet is a great idea for the drain there!
Lack of progress lately so I'll post a picture of my daily driver from 1985. Just found an old photo album. If I remember right it was a real R/T, 383/727.
Was that a real TX9 black Challenger?
Quote from: Cuda Cody on May 29, 2017, 01:40:55 PM
Was that a real TX9 black Challenger?
I don't know, and I don't have too many pictures of it, at the time I wasn't that interested in Fender tags and codes. I just drove that one during the winter and my convertible in the summer.
Been slow but I got some stuff done today. Finished the left side of the rocker, found a small area on above that was pitted so I changed that also.
Was hoping that the right side would be OK, but nope, same hackjob, even worse, thick layers of bondo on top of rust!
I should have blasted this area also.
Who put a nice expensive FC7 paintjob over such crappy repairs!! :verymad:
And when they did the "repairs" they cut the rocker way too deep so the also made deep cuts in the convertible reinforcement, fixing those. I really hate TIG welding upside down, there is not one cussword I know that didn't get used here.
A MIG would have been much easier here, but I don't have one.
I can barely tig weld standing up and you're doing it on your back. :twothumbsup: Very cool. Nice job.
Over a month since I worked on the car, been working 24/7 around the clock lately, no time for anything else, got a few hrs off from work today so I got started on the other wheelhouse, pretty much the same crappy repairs, I'm just cutting it out and doing it properly. The area where the rocker meets the wheelhouse is probably the most time consuming repairs I done so far.
Lots of great work I just quickly scrolled through this thread it sure brings back lots of memories
That would be so much easier with a rotisserie. I've done the overhead and I can't say I want to do it again.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on July 29, 2017, 08:17:09 AM
That would be so much easier with a rotisserie. I've done the overhead and I can't say I want to do it again.
I know, but I needed to get that stuff fixed before I put the quarters, trunkfloor w. extensions and the rear crossmember in. It can not go in the rotisserie right now. I only weld as much as I really have to, on areas that will be covered up by the quarter, will do the rest in the rotisserie. But I gotta say, I am getting better at welding in that position, first try's, it was nearly impossible with a TIG.
Yes! I got a day off from work, after 6 weeks of nonstop work on a TV show. Well not a whole day, now I gotta work a nightshift, but enough to go work on my car some. No rain so I decided to take it outside and sandblast and paint 2K epoxy inside the quarters. Good thing I got that done, the weather is slowly getting bad here for the fall, wind and rain. I painted the inside of the first quarterpanel also, gonna spray bedliner on it over the epoxy.
Time to get back at it! After sandblasting inside the quarters I noticed that the last piece of the rocker is way to pitted to save, looked OK before blasting though, I even blasted som new holes in it. So I cut it out, made a new piece, I used etch primer on the bare steel here, what is the best way to continue here, should I use a regular primer, then a topcoat? I read that the etch primer does not like a 2K epoxy on top of it...
Look at those layers and layers of unprotected panels overlapping each other at the very place most likely to rust on the car...
My OCD makes me pry everything apart, clean and protect it.
These cars were not made to last 50 years, its a wonder that area is not totally gone.
That part is done. Will never rust again, during my lifetime at least.
Nice work Ken. :ohyeah:
Looks great :bigthumb:
Wow that looks great. sooo much great work there.
Mike
Just picked up this thread. I'm really impressed with the work you've taken on and accomplished. Most of the welding I've done has been with a MIG, and most of that has been on my back too. Keep up the great work!
Thanks guys! I just picked up a MIG also, I can't get the TIG to work well on the plugwelds, MIG is quicker and easier there, I tried a lot to do spotwelds with the TIG, (with no hole) works great on a bench when you really can press the 2 pieces together really tight, but in real life, on your back under the car its hard to do properly. So I will use the MIG for plugs and the TIG for buttwelding.
Do you have a thumb wheel on the tig? I did not see foot pedal.
Thanks.
Quote from: YellowThumper on November 30, 2017, 06:33:08 PM
Do you have a thumb wheel on the tig? I did not see foot pedal.
Thanks.
No thumbwheel, I have a foot pedal, but I can often not use it in weird positions, so I just set the amps and use a slow pulse, and moving faster when it gets hotter.
Quote from: soundcontrol on December 01, 2017, 02:51:26 AM
Quote from: YellowThumper on November 30, 2017, 06:33:08 PM
Do you have a thumb wheel on the tig? I did not see foot pedal.
Thanks.
No thumbwheel, I have a foot pedal, but I can often not use it in weird positions, so I just set the amps and use a slow pulse, and moving faster when it gets hotter.
Thanks and now more questions....
Do you have arc start when touching tip? Continuous start arc?
Just curious. Been tigging for many years but am about to do some panel replacing for the first time on another project car. Have been trying to Tig but I am becoming a better grinder than welder... Auto welding is clearly a different animal.
Quote from: YellowThumper on December 02, 2017, 08:53:31 PM
Thanks and now more questions....
Do you have arc start when touching tip? Continuous start arc?
Just curious. Been tigging for many years but am about to do some panel replacing for the first time on another project car. Have been trying to Tig but I am becoming a better grinder than welder... Auto welding is clearly a different animal.
No, I have an electronic start, I think it's called HF, creates a spark when I push the button, works great. (When I forget to connect the ground clip, I still get the spark, but no arc). I wish I had a thumb wheel though, since I'm never in position to use a foot pedal. But it works without one also. I have only been TIG welding for a couple of years. I find the welds to be smaller and easier to grind than MIG/MAG welds, I like the control with the TIG, (as I like the speed of the MIG). I know most people uses MIG/MAG but I saw that many pro's use TIG for panel welding so I went that route. I still have not done big panels, I will, soon. Ordered new AMD quarter skins just now, so I have a 5-6ft long weld to do when I get those, that will be a challenge. Gonna try to do as long runs as fast as I can, with a copper backing.
I'm just finding your thread and am very impressed with your work. Personally, this is my favorite part of a build. It's long hard work but it's very satisfying to know what you have done, while never really seen by others, is right and there for good.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers!
Mickm
Quote from: Mickm on December 03, 2017, 02:25:26 AM
I'm just finding your thread and am very impressed with your work. Personally, this is my favorite part of a build. It's long hard work but it's very satisfying to know what you have done, while never really seen by others, is right and there for good.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers!
Mickm
Thanks Mickm! I like the bodywork also, I'm a newbie on it, so I'm learning as I go, I don't really care right now if the car looks perfect on the outside, with nice paint and so, it will get there in time, but if its rusty inside, I can't deal with that, makes me crinch :D
Check out my thread about the quarterpanels in more detail, and why I dissed the ones I have and orderdered new AMD's from MoparDave.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/body-shop/5/cut-the-quarters-or-not/1339/msg66635#msg66635
Quote from: soundcontrol on December 03, 2017, 02:09:51 AM
Quote from: YellowThumper on December 02, 2017, 08:53:31 PM
Thanks and now more questions....
Do you have arc start when touching tip? Continuous start arc?
Just curious. Been tigging for many years but am about to do some panel replacing for the first time on another project car. Have been trying to Tig but I am becoming a better grinder than welder... Auto welding is clearly a different animal.
No, I have an electronic start, I think it's called HF, creates a spark when I push the button, works great. (When I forget to connect the ground clip, I still get the spark, but no arc). I wish I had a thumb wheel though, since I'm never in position to use a foot pedal. But it works without one also. I have only been TIG welding for a couple of years. I find the welds to be smaller and easier to grind than MIG/MAG welds, I like the control with the TIG, (as I like the speed of the MIG). I know most people uses MIG/MAG but I saw that many pro's use TIG for panel welding so I went that route. I still have not done big panels, I will, soon. Ordered new AMD quarter skins just now, so I have a 5-6ft long weld to do when I get those, that will be a challenge. Gonna try to do as long runs as fast as I can, with a copper backing.
Thanks again. I am in process of replacing a large floorboard section. Combination of spot on correct lap areas but there will also be cumulative sum of 6 ft of butt welds also. Unless I Improve greatly in short order MIG is will take over.
For your panels. With TIG you will still need to weld many short lengths while moving around to let cool.
Quote from: YellowThumper on December 03, 2017, 12:38:59 PM
For your panels. With TIG you will still need to weld many short lengths while moving around to let cool.
I have been told not to move around from real pro's thas been doing this for 40+ years. Weld as long as I can in one "take" (excuse my soundrecording lingo). Move pretty fast and even, as long as I can. Reasoning is that if I move around the panel will distort more. Any welding will cause shrinking to a point and its better and easier to deal with it on a long even weld than many heating and cooling areas. After welding I have to go over the weld with hammer and dolly to expand the shrinked part, and there is were the TIG weld is easier to hammer, not as high and softer. I heard this from many bodyguys, not just one. Time will tell if it is good advise, its gonna be exciting!
Found this video by Eastwood on the subject. They talk about that @18:50
https://youtu.be/9jusDPVfEVs
Thats a good video, I'm watching the whole thing, lots of good tips, at 35:35 he is welding with no filler rod, thats what I want with my quarter skins, challenge will be to cut the old and the new skin exact all the way, not an easy one.
Ok then... learn everyday. Sure it all depends on heat applied.
I will watch the vids as well. Thanks.
That video is great, I found a mistake I'm doing, I use the 1/16 wire, (they say its to thick), when I should just be using a straighten out MIG wire, about half as thick and melts quicker.
:bigthumb:
Waiting for more sheet metal, I managed to switch the bellhousing on my NAG 1 tranny, it was pretty easy. Bell from a Jeep Cherokee, now the starter goes on the drivers side and my TTI headers fits. Gonna take the pan off and change the filter also, and try to clean it up, bought a bunch of different cleaners I'm gonna try.
So did you find a new dust plate for between the engine and transmission as it's different for driver's side starter? I remember asking you before, but don't remember the answer. If you haven't found one, I couldn't forever, you can get one at the dealer for $20-30.
Corey
:bravo:
Quote from: JpRngr on January 06, 2018, 10:32:08 PM
So did you find a new dust plate for between the engine and transmission as it's different for driver's side starter? I remember asking you before, but don't remember the answer. If you haven't found one, I couldn't forever, you can get one at the dealer for $20-30.
Corey
Darn, I could have ordered one when I got the NAG1 steel gasket, seal for the converter and a filter kit, but I forgot. Tricky for me since I live in Sweden, no dealers here... but my daughter is moving to L.A next week, she'll be my small parts supplier from now. :D
Thanks for reminding me, it's on my list now!
2 metal Hemi emblems, delivered to my mailbox, direct from China, 15 bucks including shipping....
I wanted the 6.1 HEMI emblems but could not find them, so I ordered these to see if they were any good.
Looks fine to me. I also ordered a SRT grille emblem, didn't get that yet.
Nice. I put newer emblems on my hood.l as well. Subtle change
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180302/b7e22c03d62e887ae89fe8d1d966eeb7.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Made my own. However yours look good there.
No updates on my build, will get back into it in June, work work, work... :tired:
But my wife just came back from L.A and brought me this nice setup (collecting parts for my 73 project).
Seriously thinking about buying a new gen. Challenger, just need something to drive this summer....
...and so I did, got this very nice 08 SRT today, traded in my bike (in the background, had the bike for 18 years and it had 4600 miles on it).
This will be my daily summer driver. I will use it a lot more than the bike.
I didn't like the wheels when I only saw the car on pictures, but then IRL, they are growing on me, and the paint is metallic black so it looks great in the sun.
Very nice, you will (and I am sure are) love it. I love my 2010 RT PCP 6 spd.
Is there a lot of them in Sweden ?
Quote from: anlauto on April 11, 2018, 12:44:11 PM
Is there a lot of them in Sweden ?
Not sure of the number, but I see a lot of them on car shows and cruises.
There is around 30 of them (all years and models) for sale here now, 3 of them Hellcats.
I do think we have more e-bodies than Gen 3 Challengers though.
I'm probably gonna remove the hoodstripe and go with a sidestripe like the one you put on your wifes car Alan, that looked great.
Quote from: soundcontrol on April 11, 2018, 12:57:21 PM
Quote from: anlauto on April 11, 2018, 12:44:11 PM
Is there a lot of them in Sweden ?
Not sure of the number, but I see a lot of them on car shows and cruises.
There is around 30 of them (all years and models) for sale here now, 3 of them Hellcats.
I do think we have more e-bodies than Gen 3 Challengers though.
I'm probably gonna remove the hoodstripe and go with a sidestripe like the one you put on your wifes car Alan, that looked great.
I know there's tons of vinyl graphic places around, I'm sure in Sweden too.....but just a thought....here's where I ordered my wife's: https://vinylimagination.com/Pages/Automotive/Dodge/Challenger/Challenger-2k15/Challenger-MOPAR10-Beltline-Stripes-15.php
I think red would look great on black too :drooling:
Quote from: anlauto on April 11, 2018, 12:44:11 PM
Is there a lot of them in Sweden ?
I got curious myself so I mailed the swedish DMW and they responded that they have 569 registered Challenger from 2008 - 2018, of that 65 are 2008's. :brainiac:
Wow...less then I thought :thinking: .....we have that many in our neighborhood :haha:
Dont let this new car stall your more important project. :pokeeye:
Quote from: nsmall on April 19, 2018, 09:37:53 AM
Dont let this new car stall your more important project. :pokeeye:
:haha: :haha:
True!
I love the 70 style red longitudinal on a Challenger. 3 Hellcats in Sweden, wow.
very cool.
So what is in the packages? So hard to tell. :slapme5:
Yes! Finally I get a few hours to myself, so I could prepare the new quarter panels for install.
Two coats of 2k epoxy and one coat of Raptorliner. I sprayed it on pretty thick.
I used one bottle of Raptorliner for the 2 quarters, I think it will be good with the epoxy under.
Won't rust in my lifetime.
Looking good. Sounds like you have been taking a break or have been too busy to work on your project?
Quote from: nsmall on July 22, 2018, 01:50:27 PM
Looking good. Sounds like you have been taking a break or have been too busy to work on your project?
It's work, been working 12-15Hr days including weekends since christmas, slowing down a bit now.
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 22, 2018, 01:38:20 PM
Yes! Finally I get a few hours to myself, so I could prepare the new quarter panels for install.
Two coats of 2k epoxy and one coat of Raptorliner. I sprayed it on pretty thick.
I used one bottle of Raptorliner for the 2 quarters, I think it will be good with the epoxy under.
Won't rust in my lifetime.
Nice, the raptorliner is good stuff and applies well. I used it on mine.
The body lines on the AMD's are so much better than the Goodmarks I had!
The body line looks good. How's the fuel cap area compared to good mark.?
Quote from: A.Gramz on July 24, 2018, 04:11:25 PM
The body line looks good. How's the fuel cap area compared to good mark.?
Much better, seem to match stock, but I have not tried to fit the cap yet. It certainly did not fit on the Goodmark!
Keep it coming!
Watching for details on the quarter panel skin installation...
I will move slow, still working every day of the week. Next step is to testfit everything, then weld in the trunkfloor with extensions and outer wheelhouses.
Finally got some welding time in today. I put the trunk floor braces in place. That was more work than I expected, I painted them inside, and the trunkfloor area that they cover with primer and a top coat, then copperbased weld primer on the weld areras, it will not rust in my lifetime. I suspect I made the holes for the plugwelds a little bit big, 6mm (thats close to 1/4"), next time I'll try 5mm (3/16"). But its a good area to start with since I have not done any other plug welds with my new MIG yet.
I'ts probably overkill to grind the welds afterwards since its gonna be completely hidden but I did, gotta try out my nice new beltsander... 8)
Nice welds! Grinding the welds relieves some stress off the welds, so it's good to do it. :alan2cents:
Good progress.
Keep at it!!!
:twothumbsup:
Looks good. Keep it going.
The wheelhouses come together in the rear with a flap that I think is spot welded, and there is a big opening there covered by seam sealer by the factory. Mine had rust there, both sides, and all my other e-bodies I owned had rust there. I decided to weld it shut, must be a better solution for the area, and I don't care about it looking stock there.
Then I prepared the trunkfloor for welding, drilled holes for the frame plug welds, bought a hole punch for the flanges, (that was a nice tool! )
Put copper based weld prime on both sides of all flanges and weld surfaces.
Now, I made a new rear crossmember, the one that connects the two framerails behind the bumper, should I put that one the rails before I weld the floor in or can I do it after?
Edit: Looked at how MCR does it, I better install the crossmember before the trunkfloor.
Wow, over a year since my last update! Well, work is slowing down some, only 50-60 Hrs/week now, feels like I'm on vacation... 8)
I did get the trunk floor in this summer though!
Getting back at it, gonna get the quarters on, so I took the advise of the pro's here and dug up the fenders and hood, so I can check all the gaps and fitment of panels before I weld. Fender to rocker, second pict, is there supposed to be a gap there to match the door gap or should it be tight to the rocker?
That looks good, you don't want it touching the rocker.......great project, It looks very similar to my own
Factory original placement on a 74.
Yours looks correct.
Great! thanks guys, my door is a little off now, gonna get everything as good as I can before welding quarters now.
Its about time soundcontrol. Thanks for giving an update.
That gap looks good. Exciting time in the build!
The 1 piece trunkfloor fit well! I screwed it down, (after this pict) not welding anything until everything fits.
I forgot to order a new rear crossmember so I made my own, just moved all weldnuts from the old one.
Looks Awesome Ken!!!
Seems like I'm never gonna get this quarter on. Wheelhouse is fitted now and I'm welding it finally. Next step to fit the rear valance with the quarter, bought a new valance, and then the trunk floor extension. After that I can paint again with epoxy primer and 2k epoxy.Takes me forever to fit everything.
It does take a lot of time, however it is fulfilling and 1 hour spent on getting it to fit will save 5 hours down the road.
I know the feeling! The driver's side quarter on my car took FOREVER to get fitted and installed. I swear it took me a month or two to get installed.
It gets better though; when you do the other side it'll probably take a fraction of the time once you get through the learning curve.
Good jobs take time! When I have to do the something on both sides of a vehicle, I do the right side first. The practice from that makes the secant one come out easier and maybe better. the customer looks at the left side more often. :rofl:
Quote from: JS29 on January 29, 2020, 06:36:09 AM
Good jobs take time! When I have to do the something on both sides of a vehicle, I do the right side first. The practice from that makes the secant one come out easier and maybe better. the customer looks at the left side more often. :rofl:
:haha: :rofl:
Picked up 2 Corvette Z06 seats a few days ago. Was gonna use Porsche seats, (have those also) but I got such a good deal on these, 630 bucks, was in a 07 Corvette, the owner changed them after 2 years so they are practically brand new. Porsche seats needed to be reupholstered, would have cost me 2 grand in leather. I'm gonna paint the car black, and possible a red stripe and red carpet, so the red inserts will fit.
They seem to fit good in the car also, rails are about 2" longer than the originals, but the same width.
I might cut them some, but I gotta do some more testing when the time comes.
Just need to make a bracket for the L-R height difference.
Electric driver seat. Very comfortable to sit it.
Only slight problem is the Z06 logo ::)
Here is my fight with the non fitting driver side trunk floor extension.
I could for the life of me not make it fit. So I cut it in half, horizontally,
then fitted the lower part to the quarter and the other part to the trunk floor and wheel house.
Then I made a mark and cut a piece out, at the widest about 3/4".
Made some welds with the pieces mounted on the car, then took it out again and TIG welded it back up.
Now it fits. Massage they call it, I call it major surgery.
Wow...you're putting up quite the fight ! With all the AMD sheet metal my metal guy has worked with, we've never run into so many issues installing quarters....I feel for you man :console:
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 09, 2020, 01:52:26 PM
Picked up 2 Corvette Z06 seats a few days ago. Was gonna use Porsche seats, (have those also) but I got such a good deal on these, 630 bucks, was in a 07 Corvette, the owner changed them after 2 years so they are practically brand new. Porsche seats needed to be reupholstered, would have cost me 2 grand in leather. I'm gonna paint the car black, and possible a red stripe and red carpet, so the red inserts will fit.
They seem to fit good in the car also, rails are about 2" longer than the originals, but the same width.
I might cut them some, but I gotta do some more testing when the time comes.
Just need to make a bracket for the L-R height difference.
Electric driver seat. Very comfortable to sit it.
Only slight problem is the Z06 logo ::)
I'd install the steering column and wheel and see how those seats fit before you get too much into them? Distance between steering wheel and seat is always at a premium on our E-Body's .One of the reasons for the popular tough wheel as it's smaller in diameter giving you more room. When I was "shopping" for new seats at the wrecking yards I found lots of nice looking comfortable seats but they were always too tall under the steering wheel to work . Lots of really nice seats in BMW's and Mercedes and even new Challengers but to tall ....
Quote from: Brads70 on February 09, 2020, 02:52:27 PM
Quote from: soundcontrol on February 09, 2020, 01:52:26 PM
Picked up 2 Corvette Z06 seats a few days ago. Was gonna use Porsche seats, (have those also) but I got such a good deal on these, 630 bucks, was in a 07 Corvette, the owner changed them after 2 years so they are practically brand new. Porsche seats needed to be reupholstered, would have cost me 2 grand in leather. I'm gonna paint the car black, and possible a red stripe and red carpet, so the red inserts will fit.
They seem to fit good in the car also, rails are about 2" longer than the originals, but the same width.
I might cut them some, but I gotta do some more testing when the time comes.
Just need to make a bracket for the L-R height difference.
Electric driver seat. Very comfortable to sit it.
Only slight problem is the Z06 logo ::)
I'd install the steering column and wheel and see how those seats fit before you get too much into them? Distance between steering wheel and seat is always at a premium on our E-Body's .One of the reasons for the popular tough wheel as it's smaller in diameter giving you more room. When I was "shopping" for new seats at the wrecking yards I found lots of nice looking comfortable seats but they were always too tall under the steering wheel to work . Lots of really nice seats in BMW's and Mercedes and even new Challengers but to tall ....
I'd also check with the top up. I ended up modifying the outter floor board on mine to make it flat even with the inner portion so I could use '11 Challenger seats. They were way too tall otherwise. Fit perfect now.
Good points guys!
I will mount the seats when the car is ready to drive (in 10 years? :haha:)
and test everything before I decide, the Porsche seats are slightly higher than the Corvette seats and I tried those with the wheel in the car,
seemed to work out well. But I didn't drive it, engine was out. I have a Grant wood steering wheel for it, I also have a Tough wheel, they are about the same size.
Wow I have had to work my trunk extensions before but that is a large modification for those.
Looks Great!
Finally the trunk floor is all welded up. It's just screwed down while I was fitting the trunk extensions and wheelhouses.
Second pict: I worried if my plug welds looked good enough, then my eyes moved 1 inch to the factory welds on the convertible pump bracket.... :crying:
I just have to redo those also, along with a bunch of other superbad welds from the factory.
I wonder if the OE resto guys replicate the bad factory welds :dunno: :D
Little bit of progress today, nice to have a super professional ventilated paint booth in the 2 car garage :haha:
2 coats of epoxy primer, 2 coats of black epoxy.
FINALLY! My quarter is on the car for the very last time. Wheelhouse lip and flange to trunk extension glued with panel bond.
I got the gap almost perfect for TIG welding, (no gap) some welding now and I'm ready for the passenger side, hopefully that will go faster.
I'm gonna try the SE rear trim on the car before I finish welding the quarter flanges to the taillight panel, with the old quarters it did not fit well there.
Just take your time, Nice job so far. :perfect10: good looking welds, about another thousand or so and it will be time to start grinding. :slapme5:
Quote from: JS29 on March 23, 2020, 05:36:45 PM
Just take your time, Nice job so far. :perfect10: good looking welds, about another thousand or so and it will be time to start grinding. :slapme5:
With the TIG, and a copper backing for cooling, I can go about an inch at the time without so much shrinking, except for a stretch above the quarter window, where I can't get the copper backing in. There I have to take it easy. I bought some cooling paste for that area.
I love seeing another purple ragtop coming back to life, looking good !
I was dreading this long ass weld for over a year! Now it is done and I 'm very happy with it.
Thought I would get some distorsion and shrinking around the weld, but nothing! I was surprised.
I took it easy, welded about 3/4"-1", then waited so I could touch it, then continued.
Did not take a long time at all, maybe 3 Hrs including time to reposition the copper on the back and moving heat absorbing paste.
Second picture is just after steelbrush and 3rd picture after some light grinding with a mini flap disc.
I don't think I need any bondo at all on this weld.
:veryexcited:
:bravo: You used a tig welder on that? again :bravo:
Quote from: JS29 on March 28, 2020, 02:25:02 PM
:bravo: You used a tig welder on that? again :bravo:
Yep, love my TIG welder, much more control over the weld. I only use the MAG for plug welds.
That makes it official, I want to get one. :perfect10:
Quote from: JS29 on March 28, 2020, 02:37:37 PM
That makes it official, I want to get one. :perfect10:
Get an AC/DC TIG, mine is only DC, with AC you can weld aluminium also.
I'm getting an AC/DC one as soon as I can stop buying rust buckets and car parts and save up some cash... :)
Weld looks great. Yup, I am looking for a TIG as well.
That looks really good.
Yep tig all the way for me as well.
Sooo much more control.
2021 is the year I'm gonna start up the work on this one again, car is in jail right now, in the corner of my friends garage, blocked by a 63 Ford Galaxy, and I can't move it or get to it until my friend is free from his Covid19, he spent a week in the hospital on oxygene and just got home last night.
I rented a new garage, I can't call it a "shop" but it's big enough for working in 2 cars, for now, my wife's Barracuda and my 70 Challenger.
I really need a bigger space but this will do until I find a better one. I still have all my parts scattered in multiple locations.
On top of that my latest impulse buy, the local junkyard scrapped a Jeep Cherokee SRT 06, low mile nice running 6.1 Hemi, I bought it with tranny and all computers, wiring, gaspedal and shifter for 4k. Might go in my 70 Barracuda later...
Nice score on the 6.1 drive train, lots of potential. Wish I could find one near me that is in my price range.
First time in years the Challenger see daylight. preparing for the move to my new place.
The Ford guy is so happy to pose with a Mopar! :D
How did you solve the speaker problem in the convertible? Thanks
Quote from: BluRaySRT on March 13, 2021, 07:20:46 PM
How did you solve the speaker problem in the convertible? Thanks
I didn't, ...yet. Not sure exactly what I'm gonna do, don't wanna make holes in the interior.
I will use the 3 speaker dash for tweeters, and put a subwoofer in the trunk, but not sure about main speakers...
Project is on hold for now, life got in the way, and my wife got the 65 Barracuda thats No 1 prio now ! :rolleyes:
Wife's priority is a good one also.
Convert the rear seat to buckets and build in a center portion for the speakers.
I do have a pretty good space to work now!
Doing some small body repairs on the Barracuda then it's off to the paint shop, and I can start on the other quarter on the Challenger.
Happy wife, happy life. :yes: