Painting aluminum intake

[73chalngr]

Well I tried to search for a thread but couldn't find one . I just got done blasting my aluminum intake what steps do I take to paint it ? I blew it out with compressed air . Do I need to prep it , primer , then color ? What are the best products to use ? 

[Strawdawg]

Being that you blasted it, I would not worry about primer, or such.  I would just paint it as it is. The texture should hold the paint with no problems.  I would be sure I cleaned it with some wax and oil remover before I painted to get any dust and/or fingerprint oils off for the best results.

[larry4406]

Years ago I had an aluminum intake bead blasted and I simply washed /scrubbed with Dawn soap and a bristle brush, then dried it with a hair dryer, painted it with the same VHT paint that was on the engine.

Never had any issue with the paint other than it discoloring at the heat crossover area.

[73chalngr]

Thanks. Looking forward to the hp gain .

[Cuda Cody]

Blow it out and then blow it out some more.  Then wash it really good.  All it takes is 1 small bit of blasting material to ruin an engine.  Then if you want the paint to hold up really well use a 2 part epoxy on it.  They sell it in rattle cans if you don't have a paint gun.  Look for "2K epoxy" and it will have an activator hardener in it.  Once  you "activate" the primer (normally by pushing the bottom of the can to puncture the internal hardener so it mixes with the primer) you'll have about 24 to 96 hours to use the can. 

Then you can paint it with a good 2 part paint or if all you have is single part rattle can it will at least hold up okay on the 2 part epoxy. 

[kawahonda]

Cody, does the epoxy and paint need to be heat resistant or does regular old stuff do?

Basically, should engines be painted with the same paint as cars without any other considerations or worries?

PM me about the Hemi orange details sometime.

[Cuda Cody]

If you are using cheap single part rattle can paint, it helps to use the high heat kind.  But 2 part paints are so far and away better then any single part paint that they will be at least 10 times stronger and do not need "special" heat rating.  I've found for engines it best to use a single stage (2 part) where the clear is mixed in the paint with the hardener compared to using a base coat / clear coat. 

Think of it like this.  A 2 part paint (hardener mixed in the paint) is creating a chemical reaction similar to the way concrete creates a chemical reaction with water and cement.  Once the concrete (chemical reaction) hardens there's not much that can un-hardener it.  The same goes for 2 part paints.  Once the chemical reaction has happened it's super strong. 

~ Single PART paint = This is your craptastic rattle cans that you can buy at your local store or online.  Not very good for anything other then quick cheap jobs and interior parts.

~ Single STAGE paint = This is a 2 part paint that is mixed by a specialty auto paint store and has the hardener, paint and clear all in one.  You need to add the activator (hardener) right before you paint and it will have a shelve life anywhere from a few hours to a few days.  This is a super strong paint and can be used for engines and exterior painting of vehicles.

~ Base Coat / Clear Coat = This is also a 2 part paint but unlike the Single STAGE paint this has the base (color) and the clear coat applied separately.   You applied a couple coats of the base color until you get the desired shade and coverage and then you applied several coats of clear.  This system is the most expensive and time consuming to apply and is best for high end show cars and for vehicles that want a long lasting paint job.  It often needs to be cut and buffed after it dries.


All paints need to be applied correctly to get the performance they provide.  No paint will hold up over cheap or dirty prep.

[RUNCHARGER]

For best results I epoxy prime then use automotive enamel on engines using a spray gun. You don't need much primer, just a fog coat to help the top coat bite.

[kawahonda]

PPG # for 340 orange?

[nsmall]

If you are using cheap single part rattle can paint, it helps to use the high heat kind.  But 2 part paints are so far and away better then any single part paint that they will be at least 10 times stronger and do not need "special" heat rating.  I've found for engines it best to use a single stage (2 part) where the clear is mixed in the paint with the hardener compared to using a base coat / clear coat. 

Think of it like this.  A 2 part paint (hardener mixed in the paint) is creating a chemical reaction similar to the way concrete creates a chemical reaction with water and cement.  Once the concrete (chemical reaction) hardens there's not much that can un-hardener it.  The same goes for 2 part paints.  Once the chemical reaction has happened it's super strong. 

~ Single PART paint = This is your craptastic rattle cans that you can buy at your local store or online.  Not very good for anything other then quick cheap jobs and interior parts.

~ Single STAGE paint = This is a 2 part paint that is mixed by a specialty auto paint store and has the hardener, paint and clear all in one.  You need to add the activator (hardener) right before you paint and it will have a shelve life anywhere from a few hours to a few days.  This is a super strong paint and can be used for engines and exterior painting of vehicles.

~ Base Coat / Clear Coat = This is also a 2 part paint but unlike the Single STAGE paint this has the base (color) and the clear coat applied separately.   You applied a couple coats of the base color until you get the desired shade and coverage and then you applied several coats of clear.  This system is the most expensive and time consuming to apply and is best for high end show cars and for vehicles that want a long lasting paint job.  It often needs to be cut and buffed after it dries.


All paints need to be applied correctly to get the performance they provide.  No paint will hold up over cheap or dirty prep.

Listen to this man.  Preach it.  I used Cody's advice and that paint is so strong I accidentally got some on my phone case 6 months ago and its still on my phone case that literally will not come off.

[Racer57]

I had mine powder coated clear 5 years ago. This is what it looks like now.

[HP_Cuda]

I second the idea of powder coating.

It's very resistant to fuel/oil/grime/etc and I think it looks great!!!

[Burdar]

It's already been said but it can't be said enough. 

The blasting material can get caught in the rough casting of the aluminum.  When the engine warms up, the pours get larger and can release the blasting material into the engine.  Clean everything very multiple times.

What blasting material was used?

[JS29]

Glass bead only!!!!! NO SAND.