Need repair advice on damage to a lacquer car

[70Challenger440]

My Challenger was damaged during transport. I did choose a transporter known as one of the best that uses their own enclosed trailers. Unfortunately they sent their guy who mostly transports modern exotics. He couldn't handle a car without a passenger side mirror and ended up scraping the right side against the inside of the trailer trying to back out. There is minor body damage and the entire side will need to be repainted and cannot be buffed out. What is done is done, and I am just looking for info to help me get this fixed well and not relive the transporter's negligence which I have lost sleep over.

The car is its factory color but was painted Acrylic lacquer about 40 years ago. The car was rarely used and was never left outside so there is no fading nor checking despite the paint's age. Worth noting is,  it does have that 'distinct lacquer' look to it that is different from modern paints. Most actually think the car is original paint due to the lacquer.

The problem is finding a legit body shop that can spray and get lacquer. (which seems impossible). Shops are telling me that I will only be disappointed if most of the car is  lacquer & one side modern paint, and that it will be devalued being this is a very nice show-car if repaired that way. They also say the only way to do this correctly is to strip the car and repaint the whole thing using modern paint. It seems the transporter is only willing to do a partial repair at this point.

Your thoughts and advice as to what I should do and expect would be appreciated.

[mtull]

Frank Badalson is in Richmond VA, his specialty is survivors.  Hopefully he can help or recommend someone who can. 

[torredcuda]

Lacquer paint is still available thru TCP Global and others. They can mix factory colors - https://tcpglobal.com/pages/acrylic-lacquer-paint

[70Challenger440]

Lacquer paint is still available thru TCP Global and others. They can mix factory colors - https://tcpglobal.com/pages/acrylic-lacquer-paint

That is good info, but I need to find out if they can mix to color variations of a factory color if provided the info from a paint match scanner. Otherwise what they provide is good only if you paint an entire car or repair a car originally painted with their own product. Am I wrong to think this?


I also hope to hear if some on this forum have painted cars with their lacquer. Their site also sells items one would not expect a car paint company would sell, like Xmas and Halloween decorations. (see attached).

[Brads70]

I'd say your likely going to end up painting the entire car. Not saying it's impossible to have a perfect match just very difficult, but finding the right guy that has the talent and equipment will be tough.

[jimynick]

You don't need to paint the whole car. Lacquer blends in quite well and in the 8 years I worked in a GM bodyshop, we did it all the time. I'd see about determining the colour and formula and order a small amount if possible. Don't sand the whole panel to paint and keep your repairs as small as possible, blending out and hopefully preserving the original paint at panel edges. We used to final coat them by pouring the paint quickly out of the gun and mixing in some slower thinners, swish it around and spray the repair with an eye to achieving a smoother finish. Cuts the buffing in half and bites into the adjacent paint better. If it's hot out, a dash of retarder also works. As you mentioned, find the right guy and you're half way home. Good luck! 

[7E-Bodies]

I shot many complete paint jobs in lacquer back in the early 80's and if you can get the product, it's easy to blend in and not tough to shoot. The only thing I'm not seeing here is the color code. I shot a complete FF4 70 Challenger 440 car in the late 80's at the body shop I worked in and it turned out spectacular. So what color code is yours?

[70Challenger440]

I shot many complete paint jobs in lacquer back in the early 80's and if you can get the product, it's easy to blend in and not tough to shoot. The only thing I'm not seeing here is the color code. I shot a complete FF4 70 Challenger 440 car in the late 80's at the body shop I worked in and it turned out spectacular. So what color code is yours?

Late 80s ... The car was repainted using A4 PPG acrylic lacquer and then was cleared with PPG lacquer at the same time.  Ever since the repaint the car has a faint greenish tinge to it.  Over the years, I have seen this color both as more silver and like mine with a hint a green. The car is currently out of state because it was damaged during my move by the transporter so I cannot provide pictures.

[jimynick]

First time I've seen a mention about clear coat. Clear had a bad reputation for cracking and yellowing. I don't know how or if you could paint the localized damages and blend clear them out with a modern clear. I think I'd try to contact PPG's tech guys and get their opinion.

[tparker]

After reading all this and what little I know, I would assume you will find  any modern painter that would have the equipment, knowledge, skill, and incentive to do the work. I would imagine there are a few retired guys are specialist  out there willing to do the work if you could find them. Personally I am not a huge fan of modern paint. It doesn't look right to me.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[torredcuda]

Color matching is always an issue and even more so when the paint is old, faded and using a different paint manufacturer. I would contact TCP and see if they are willing to match your sample or scanner and also see if you can get a few ounces of the different toners used in case your painter has to further adjust it. As said you need to find a good painter tat knows how to spray lacquer and blend it out if needed. I used to work at a Chevrolet dealer body shop and we sprayed plenty of lacquer and it`s actually very easy to work with. Aslso as said clear adds another issue if it`s yellowed.