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Fuel gauge non rallye

Started by RJChallenger, April 01, 2018, 12:41:59 PM

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RJChallenger

Great site, very informative. Im trying to make one good gas gauge out of two . one has a very beautiful face and a burnt bi-metal strip. the other a very shitty face  but good electrically. My problem is the gauge only reads 3/4 full with 5 volts to the terminals and id like to re-calibrate the gauge. If you look at the inside it looks like to adjustments are possible. Has any ever calibrated a fuel gauge before thanks. Hopefully you can see in the pictures the arms with little teeth

Brads70

What car/year are you working on? I have a few  gauge clusters here for a 70 Challenger?

Cuda Cody

Non rallye fuel gauges are not hard to find.  But if you want to fix yours I'm all in to help.   :D  When you put 5 volts to it how much resistance are you using?  Normally you will use between about 10 and 70 ohms. 


Cuda Cody


RJChallenger

I'm working on a 70 challenger A66 car. Presently a 440 pistol grip 4 spd. Its been on jack stands for the last 34 years waiting for the kids to move out. I hope to have it on the road in 2019. The cluster I'm working on is a 71 model( date code 2280) I just picked up for 40 bucks hoping to flip or trade for other parts to move my project along. Whats a gas gauge worth and what can I sell the cluster for? Where abouts in Ontario are you

RJChallenger

your awesome on you tube. Im just using 3 AAA batteries taped together. I bought this cluster at a swap meet $40 very clean unit ( Date code 2280). I found a broken wire on the bi-metal strip at the grounding stud. Had an old broken gauge and used it to fix the clean gauge. But only reads 3/4 full at 4.5 volts. The two inside have teeth that are accessible through holes on the back cover . I'm hoping to be able to calibrate by moving these teeth which should affect where the needle reads.Am I missing something here

Cuda Cody

I'll tell ya, I've never had to open one up.  I just bend the sending unit arm to make the gauge read right.   :sorry:  Sorry I can't be more help.


Brads70

Quote from: RJChallenger on April 01, 2018, 09:14:45 PM
I'm working on a 70 challenger A66 car. Presently a 440 pistol grip 4 spd. Its been on jack stands for the last 34 years waiting for the kids to move out. I hope to have it on the road in 2019. The cluster I'm working on is a 71 model( date code 2280) I just picked up for 40 bucks hoping to flip or trade for other parts to move my project along. Whats a gas gauge worth and what can I sell the cluster for? Where abouts in Ontario are you

I'm in Barrie. If you need a gauge to progress your project , I'll give you one. If your wanting parts to fix up and sell/flip .... well I can do that myself.

Bullitt-

First off I question your whether your power source is possibly the issue .....  This is NOT anything I've ever dealt with but this post on a Jeep forum seems to cover what your trying to do possibly.  I don't see all the adjustments they reference on your piece but imagine there are a couple the same. .

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fuel-gauge-calibration-393162/

Good Luck & let us know if this works for you. 
.         Doin It Southern Style
       

RJChallenger

Thanks for the offer,That was very kind of you. I'd be happy to buy or trade for the gauge. I'm not interested in flipping parts as a job. I'm more interested in trading the the parts I don't need any more for parts that I do need.To help out a fellow brother. I only bought this cluster because of a 2280 date on back of the cluster. I've just recently found out just how my challenger is a one year only car. The parts that I need are one front retractable seat belt (black) , drivers door panel (black) and a head liner. Thanks Rob.

RJChallenger

Cody your wrong about the amount of help you've been.The responses to other posts and your "you tube stardom" have been a huge source of information. If I didn't type with one finger Id post more. Thank you for all your help,and that of the E-body forums Rob


dodj

I agree with bullit. At 4.5v you are starting off with a 10 percent loss in supply voltage.  That will give you a corressponding lack of needle deflection.
Doesn't account for all of your issue, but correct what you know to be a deficiency first and work from there.

A helping hand like brad offered is the easiest route?
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Brads70

Quote from: RJChallenger on April 02, 2018, 05:31:08 AM
Thanks for the offer,That was very kind of you. I'd be happy to buy or trade for the gauge. I'm not interested in flipping parts as a job. I'm more interested in trading the the parts I don't need any more for parts that I do need.To help out a fellow brother. I only bought this cluster because of a 2280 date on back of the cluster. I've just recently found out just how my challenger is a one year only car. The parts that I need are one front retractable seat belt (black) , drivers door panel (black) and a head liner. Thanks Rob.
Yes 70  Challenger has a few unique parts.... do you have the ribbed bezel or smooth one? 70 Gauges are a one year only thing too. I likely have the entire set up here if I go digging? I know I don't have the ribbed switch panel though.

RJChallenger

Until I can afford a 70 rallye cluster Ill have to made due with what I have.Presently I have a 73 rallye cluster and wiring harness. It took quite a bit of thinking to remove the inter lock system from the wiring harness, make operational. Pull wires from the back of the fuse block bulk head , so that the two incompatible wiring harnesses would work together. I'm not going to touch it until I have a 70 cluster.As far as ribbed or not I wouldn't be that picky. I just don't want to be that guy that took 35 years to fix a car.Thank you for offer

Brads70

Quote from: RJChallenger on April 02, 2018, 08:36:59 AM
Until I can afford a 70 rallye cluster Ill have to made due with what I have.Presently I have a 73 rallye cluster and wiring harness. It took quite a bit of thinking to remove the inter lock system from the wiring harness, make operational. Pull wires from the back of the fuse block bulk head , so that the two incompatible wiring harnesses would work together. I'm not going to touch it until I have a 70 cluster.As far as ribbed or not I wouldn't be that picky. I just don't want to be that guy that took 35 years to fix a car.Thank you for offer

Are you sure it's a rallye cluster you have?  :huh: I found a set and pulled this fuel gauge out. It's yours if you need it, just pay the shipping would be great?