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New to Mopar world./ Stripped K member bolt!!! Help

Started by northerncuda2021, March 08, 2021, 07:52:03 AM

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northerncuda2021

Hi just want to introduce myself, i'm from Manitoba/Canada , did a frame off resto on a chevelle 15 years ago, now I went and picked myself up a mopar. 1970 cuda non matching.  I've been getting so much valuable info off this site and really appreciate it. I will help when I can.  My first issue I came across just happened this morning. I was in the process of dropping K member with engine/transmission attached. All was going great till I got to the last bolt. It stripped inside the frame and keeps turning.  What are my options at this point? Cut and deal with after? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Northern Cuda

JS29

 :welcome: You my need the cut a slot in the frame rail to fix that! You wont be the first.  :console:

Cuda Cody

 :iagree:  A simple cut to open it up to get access to fix it.  Keep in mind the location so it may be better to access it from the side or something so the original location of the hole stays in place.

And welcome to the forum @northerncuda2021   :welcome:


northerncuda2021

Ok guys thanks. I was hoping not to cut frame rail, but you gotta do what needs to be done. Ill get a good welder to zip it up when I'm done.
Thanks illl give it a shot

anlauto

Yup I agree, it's about your only solution  :alan2cents:
Budget for your Cuda restoration to cost about 10 times more than your Chevelle restoration :bigmoney:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

73_Cuda_4_Me

If it were me, I'd grind the head of the bolt off, and use a punch to pop it up into the frame rail... the threaded portion of the frame rail 'might' still be good!

At least you can inspect the frame rail better with the k-member off, then decide what needs to be done!
73 340 `Cuda 727 Auto on Column

BS23H3B

anlauto

#6
I'm guessing the nut is broken right off inside the frame rail :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Brads70

Try wedging in a pickle fork between the frame rain and the k-frame. Keeping it tight might allow you to remove the bolt. If that works , then drill a couple of holes from the bottom and see if you can get a couple welds on the nut to keep it in place and from spinning.   Might  save you from having to cut into the frame rail. If you do end up having to cut into the frame rail , I'd be tempted to cut a slot about 1/2" x 2" wide by 3"? long or longer? , then get some cold roll steel 1/2" x2" drill and tap for the bolt in the correct spot  then fit it in so it fits flush to the side of the frame rail then weld it in. It is then big enough it will never spin again and doubles as a patch for the frame rail too. Double duty if you will.

7212Mopar

May be put the other three bolts back in first before cutting to keep the registration correct.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket

Chryco Psycho

Welcome to the site , not too tough to repair the frame rail / mount

northerncuda2021

Thanks guy went like a dream.  Cut 3/4"x2" slot with oscillating tool got nut out.  I was real real tight.  Solid inside no rust.  I'll put new nut tack it in and weld it all up when engine goes back in. Thanks again. All great info I got. If I would do this again my advice would be to drill a tiny 1/8" hole about 1" up from k member bolt spray with a good penetrating oil and let sit overnight.  Bet it would go!!!  Thanks again.


RUNCHARGER

Yep: Us old guys spray them a week before we try to turn them.
Sheldon

jimynick

" Us old guys spray them- every day for- a week before we try to turn them. Just sayin' AND, heat is your friend and yellow is the colour you want it to be.  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"