Are Speed Pro 340 Forged 2332 pistons and OEM Rods worth anything ?

[76orangewagon]

Like the title says, I have a set of 2332 .030 Speed Pro Forged Pistons and a mismatched set of OEM connecting Rods (7) are part number 3418645 and (1) is 2899496. I just pulled these out of my running 1970 340 Block that only had about 3000 miles on it since it's rebuild 28 years ago and they still look new, as they should with that low of mileage. So do you think there is any interest in the market for these ....if so, at what price or do I make a coffee table out of these and the forged crank I also pulled out?

[RUNCHARGER]

I think so. I am thinking with the crankshaft maybe the new price of the pistons for the whole setup? Say $400 I am guessing. (I haven't priced a SpeedPro piston in about 20 years).

[76orangewagon]

It seems these are the equivalent to the current Speed Pro L2316 piston. Piston weight is 729 grams + another 154 for the pin.... add the connecting rod weight of 758 grams and its a bit heavy combo.

[Chryco Psycho]

I was looking for info on them could not find much
Are they Forged or hyper tho ?
L2316F would be forged 

[76orangewagon]

I was looking for info on them could not find much
Are they Forged or hyper tho ?
L2316F would be forged

You are correct..... there's not a lot of info out there but I did find a couple of older discussion forums and it said they were forged. I still have my original build notes from 28 years ago and it said TRW Forged pistons.

[1 Wild R/T]

It seems these are the equivalent to the current Speed Pro L2316 piston. Piston weight is 729 grams + another 154 for the pin.... add the connecting rod weight of 758 grams and its a bit heavy combo.

Yes, they are heavy... Nothing like what is used today, but they worked great & took lots of abuse back in the day & being forged they will do it still today.....   As Sheldon said, it your not using the crank sell it as a rotating assembly.... I think $4-500 is fair....

We have a new member asking about building his 73 340, this would be a great option for him....

[Chryco Psycho]

except that he doesn't want to bore to .030 over

[1 Wild R/T]

except that he doesn't want to bore to .030 over

True, he doesn't... But once he talks to a machinist & gets those bores measured he might change his mind...

[tdwnilla1]

except that he doesn't want to bore to .030 over

True, he doesn't... But once he talks to a machinist & gets those bores measured he might change his mind...

Thank you Chryco that is correct, 1 Wild R/T thank you for thinking of me but like Chryco said I don't want to bore if I can help it. Honestly, with only 40,000 original miles on it I am quite disgusted that I have to do any of this to it but unfortunately replacing my main bearings and rod bearings did not make my lower end rattle go away it only quieted it down a little and bought me some time so I can still go to the Syracuse Nationals. Is there a specific stroker kit I should be looking for ? I would like to do as much of this myself as I can. I have means of honing the cylinders even though they don't look like they need it but it cant hurt to polish them as long as it is already apart. I live near Syracuse and we have a local place that turns cranks (Syracuse Crank and Machine) if I had to but by the sounds of things I can go with the stroker and it comes with a crank I believe. With all of that said, all I would need to do is have my block acid dipped and magnafluxed and put the stroker kit in and that would be it for my lower end and then all I need to do is get my heads done to oe specs correct ?

[RUNCHARGER]

I'm not really a small block guy but the pistons in question with the two valve reliefs are rated at 10.5 right? The ones with the 4 valve reliefs are the 8.1?

[1 Wild R/T]

I'm not really a small block guy but the pistons in question with the two valve reliefs are rated at 10.5 right? The ones with the 4 valve reliefs are the 8.1?

Those are the 10.5 pistons, the 8.5 don't have the chamfer to clear the chamber... The 10.5 actually have a positive deck height.....

[RUNCHARGER]

Thanks, once in awhile I get it right!

[7212Mopar]

Staying with OEM heads to look stock? Stroker needs good heads to make good power.

[tdwnilla1]

trying to keep it as much stock as possible, more power is nice but that is not what I am after

[1 Wild R/T]

Staying with OEM heads to look stock? Stroker needs good heads to make good power.

Stroker needs good heads to reach it's full potential but even with stock heads it'll make big block style torque down low.... But it'll run outta steam by around 4,000 rpm's...  You know, just when it was getting exciting....