Hemi

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes, pretty much. It's hard to give an opinion on parts like this without all kinds of information. I've went down this road before and it cost me lots of money so I wouldn't like to see that happen to someone else.

[cuda hunter]

Ok, I will try to set up my machinist with the parts to get the information I need.   

So, if I went into the guy with the hemi and parts, and said I'll give ya 4K for all the hemi stuff.  Would I make out?  Meaning if it isn't what I wanted to use for a street block would I be able to resale and recoup what I put into it as a back up plan? 

Opinions of course. 

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes, you would be fine at that price, however if he's old, crotchety and thinks the stuff is gold then you'll just tick him off. It's a slippery slope. I would ask if you can take the block to get a few things checked out and if he balks then say in that case I can offer you $4k as everything sits as I think I am taking a leap of faith.

[Flatdad]

I spy:

Aluminum main caps, changing back to steel caps = $$$

Check and/or ask if it was changed over to 1/2" head bolts or studs, you wouldn't prefer that for a regular street build. Not the end of the world, its just more cost & non-standard parts.

Something is odd about the rear-most main cap, rear main seal area. I bet the crank was splined or keyed for a slip-on rear flange & that modified rear cap set up for a round oil seal... wish they were that way from stock.

Freeze plugs in the water pump feed holes, meaning the drag strip passes were done without water, meaning it was probably running supercharged on alcohol...= high stress environment

You definitely need to know if the block's water jackets have been filled with hardblock or something, & if so, how high does it go?

I can't quite see, but it looks like the oil pickup tube hole has been plugged for external oiling. You need to know if the plug is permanent or if you can still run a stock style internal pickup tube & pan.

The passenger side of the bell housing looks milled a bit on the side. Chassis fitment?

Like others have said, knowing if the block has been decked significantly is important, especially if fire ring grooves are to be milled out of it.

'90 mains 80 sides' means 90 ft-lbs of torque on the main cap bolts & 80 ft-lbs on the cross bolts through the skirts.

If its truly standard bore, thats worth some money in my book.


Considering the life the block has lived, and the potential corrective machining, not to mention the cost of getting steel caps for it... I would personally pay between $1800-$3800 for the block, $800-$1200 for the rocker assemblies, $100-$300 for the painted valve covers, & I'd avoid buying any heads if possible.

[cuda hunter]

Thanks for the assessment.  That's a lot of specific great information of which I will look into.

If the heads are stock iron heads would you still not purchase? 
I understand not purchasing the aluminum heads. 

[Flatdad]

Thanks for the assessment.  That's a lot of specific great information of which I will look into.

If the heads are stock iron heads would you still not purchase? 
I understand not purchasing the aluminum heads.

Nope, I wouldn't want the heads to constrain the rest of the build plan. Save up money for new heads that match your build plan & don't look back.

[Flatdad]

In fact... I can't stress this enough... The block is all that really matters here. The rest of the parts could be sourced new pretty easily if you wanted to pony up the cash. BUT the block is key, the block is everything. None of the other parts matter until you're sure you've got a good block to work with.

Make sure you really want to do this because unless you plan on dropping it off at a builder and writing a check, you're choosing a life of parts hunting and a huge mental investment in learning about the parts, a dedicated amount of storage space at your home, and of course the considerable monetary cost to go with it.

I'm starting to go into 'first Hemi build' PTSD thinking back to building mine myself out in the garage, lol.

[cuda hunter]

Thanks for the encouragement.  I do realize it will be a labor of love and take a lot of time to put everything together.  Interesting though you don't think I should buy the heads, even if stock.  Very much appreciate the opinion though.  I'll keep that in mind.  After all, the block is really what I'm after once I'm sure it's a truly stock block.

[Topcat]

anything stamped here? 

I did not see anything, nor did I see any grind marks to suggest there was stamping removed.
I can go back by there and look again. 
What would the numbers stamped there tell me? 
And if there are no numbers, what would that tell me?

Josh,

It was a hard road I went down to have a Hemi

Bores were coned out needing a bore out to..063
Carbs were fried and barely able to save
Crack in the head and had a Jedi Master of head repair save it
The conversion mounts nightmare
Getting the right parts more than once.
Waiting and waiting to find that one part nobody sells.
One year plus lead time to get it back.
The Stroker Crank that had more holes drilled in it than Swiss cheese.

If you sat with me asking what it took; we would go thru an 18 pack.   
I bet I have more in the engine than I do in the rest of the car.

But in the end, It's so F'n Cool! 
I would love to see you succeed and build this Pachyderm.

It's a long way to the top if you want  to Rock N Roll. 
Wish you the best on this.   

[Fastmark]

A hemi that has been modified like that one for fuel racing is a money pit for sure. Jim Hale( a long time Hemi racer in Arkansas) told me that the last east casting of the hemi were done in 73-74. After he sonic tested all of the the ones he had, he sold them. The castings were the the worst and thinnest he had ever seen. Since the one in the funny car is a 73, I bet that one is as well. Those alum main caps look strange. I cant tell but it looks like something is in the cap on the front and rear mains.  if you don't get it cheap, I'd pass. $4000 for it all would be my best price. And you'll be lucky if he turns you down. I guarantee you you that he is thinking it's worth $10,000 at least. I'd pass on the alum heads, crank rods, and pistons.