WIW Need a fair selling price for my 1974 Cuda

[Deadeye74]

Hey guys...I need some advice on a realistic price to expect for my Cuda. Also what would be the best listing venue considering it is parked in rural northeastern PA. I have a price in mind but I need to see if my numbers are even close. I have been watching what is and isn't selling for a few years now...and while this isnt a '70 or '71...I think it has a lot to offer the right person.

I will just post the write-up here with the links to everything about the car. If you have the time to look...let me know what you think. Warning...there are over 200 pics at the Imgur link. The further down you go the more recent it is. Thank you in advance for your time.

1974 PLYMOUTH CUDA 360/727 All Numbers Matching

I am the third owner of this car, but the second one to have it on the road. The original owner gave it to his nephew for a graduation present, but he never tagged it or altered it, then I purchased it from him in 1989. It has a clean Maryland title, two broadcast sheets and original fender tag. I have all of my maintenance and restoration records and receipts. It is currently parked in the NE PA area. It has been run and moved around from time to time.
I started to restore it in 1995 but then kids and houses took priority.  I put about 9500 miles on it since the partial resto up until 2003 when the tags were pulled for storage. It has not been tagged since and was garage kept from 2003 up until 2017 when I lost a place to store it. In 2003 a car caught fire that was parked beside it. Even though the fire department did a great job of keeping the fire and heat off of the Cuda...the paint on the driver's side door and rear quarter bubbled up and eventually peeled off in the last few years. It did not warp the panels or affect anything else on the car.

I have 98% of the original parts I swapped out car and some extras I picked up along the way that will go with the car. I do not have the original Road wheels, radiator & shroud or exhaust manifolds. The Rallye wheels and side mirrors came from a 1974 Roadrunner. I tried to make it easy to restore everything back to factory original if desired.

The engine was done by Reggio at Maryland Performance, and was fitted with a throttle body fuel injection system from DFI/Accel with  Calmap 6.2 software. It will need updated to a new F.I system or put back to stock carb though as the software runs on 1995 DOS computer tech. The old 286 computer I was using died so I can no longer access the system. The engine and drivetrain is still solid and has never been raced. It was estimated around 400-425 HP and it has a lot of torque which makes it a nice cruiser.
The 727 trans with a Slapstik shifter was done by Steve at Thoroughbred Transmissions The original standard duty 727 was upgraded to a heavy duty trans and a shift kit was installed. It has a 2800rpm stall converter. The rear axle is an 8 ¾ Suregrip with 3:23 gears and was tore down and inspected and all bearings and seals replaced.

It has a $1k Alpine AM/FM/CD/stereo system with an Alpine V12 amp with two Triaxial JBL speakers in the rear deck and two coaxial JBL's in the door panels. Included is an extra pair of door panels untouched so it can be put back to stock.
The A/C did work but has leaked out over the years. It needs to be converted to the newer type Freon. The car will need repainted of course and the usual spots for body work need redone. There are also some small rust spots resurfacing here and there as seen in the photos. The seats need attention and dashpad has a crack also, but had a new headliner and carpeting in it. The frame rails are straight and rust-free and floorboards are solid. I opted to remove and inspect the floor seams sealer and everything was fine, so I resealed it with the correct body sealer and installed a complete body plug kit and insulation. The undercoating has deteriorated allowing some surface rust in some places. The center trunk floor had pinholes after the body was media blasted but was still fairly solid, so I built it up with several layers of POR-15 top and bottom and it is still rock solid.
The front and rear suspension had all the bushings replaced with new polyurethane bushings. Tires have 3700 miles on them and have no sign of dry rot and the brake components in good shape. The gas tank was new with a #6 AN bung installed in the bottom for the fuel line and pump.

I will post photos of some of the invoices of new parts installed in 1995 as its too much to list here. All the parts shown on the ground are either off the car or spares I bought and will go with the car. I will also include the service manuals and decoding books pictured in the sale. Look over the photos, check out the videos and ask any questions.

With bodywork, paint, a new fuel system and a few other small items attended to, this would be back to a nice daily driver. It does run and can be driven at low speeds but the engine will not throttle up. I believe the fuel injectors or pump may be deteriorated from sitting.

This is the link to my Imgur page where I have everything downloaded to...the photos of it by the white house is current .....
https://imgur.com/a/eplOr

Last year but still a current state walk around video of the car at this link....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UThFpknLP9k&index=2&list=UUEyLczaKXkrijvMLkHMsflg

This was a walk around in 2010....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7Dpg4Z2FhM&list=UUEyLczaKXkrijvMLkHMsflg&index=19

BS23: Plymouth Barracuda
Special, 'Cuda
2 Door Hardtop
L4B: 360 245HP(net) 1-4BBL 8 CYL HP
1974
Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI, USA
291510: Sequence number
E58: 360 cid 4 barrel V8 245hp
D34: Std. Duty Automatic Transmission
KY5: Yellow Blaze Exterior Color
A6X9: Trim - Basic, Vinyl Bucket Seats, Black
000: Full Door Panels
C10: Build Date: December 10
426417: Order number
KY5: Yellow Blaze Top Color
U: USA Specifications
B41: Front Disc Brakes w/Standard 10in RR Drum
C16: Console w/Woodgrain Panel
C56: Bucket Seats
G11: Tinted Glass (all)
G51: L.H O.S Manual Chrome Mirror
H51: Air Conditioning with Heater
J54: Sport Hood
M21: Roof drip rail moldings
M25: Wide sill moldings
M26: Wheel Lip Moldings
M31: Belt Moldings
M88: Decklid Moldings Treatment
N41: Dual Exhaust
N42: Chrome Exhaust Tips
N76: Coolant Recovery System
R11: Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)
26: 26in Radiator
L2: Unknown
593: Unknown

[61K T/A]

I would contact Hagerty for a value.

[anlauto]

Quick Sale : $12K-$15K 
Average Sale $15K-$20K 
A little harder time selling $20K-$25K 
Waiting a Looooong time to sell $25K-$30K 
Ain't gonna happen sale $30K+ 

I've sold several cars on "Cars-on-line" web site.....One price, runs until you sell....don't be surprised if it goes overseas... 

[RUNCHARGER]

I would have to agree with Alan.

[Deadeye74]

Thanks for looking this over guys. 

Alan, that sounds spot on from what I have been watching on the web too...and I was thinking of starting with a middle to high end of the average sale category. I have looked in to the Cars-on-line site and it seems reasonable. When you say it may end up over seas...are you talking in general or specifically that site? Not that it matters where it ends up...but I imagine dealing with someone out of the country will be a bit more involved. My first '74 Cuda could be over there for all I know! 

[anlauto]

No I wouldn't say an overseas sale is more prevalent with that web site, I just think there's a huge market of overseas buyers right now looking for decent cars in your price range.

I've sold a few overseas now.....just let the buyer handle all the logistics, maybe help them out by arranging a local inspector or something....In two cases I actually delivered the car to a shipping yard close to my home....

[RUNCHARGER]

My orange car went overseas. The buyers arranged shipping etc. I would have arranged it differently however they were the buyers so when the shippers picked up the car my responsibility was over (I fully documented the car when it was loaded on the truck for transportation to the shipyard in case someone damaged the car or lied about it after it left my yard).

[Spikedog08]

Quick Sale : $12K-$15K 
Average Sale $15K-$20K 
A little harder time selling $20K-$25K 
Waiting a Looooong time to sell $25K-$30K 
Ain't gonna happen sale $30K+ 

I've sold several cars on "Cars-on-line" web site.....One price, runs until you sell....don't be surprised if it goes overseas... 

And these are US prices?  Just to clarify . . .

[quapman]

The bubbling paint and rust (especially cowl rust) is going to scare off most people.

Overseas buyers want done, restored, ready to drive cars.

74s are still the hardest year E body to sell.

You're better off keeping the "$1k stereo".

My 2 cents says $12k max. Buyers spending $20k + are very picky these days.

[ledphoot]

That's a very nice project for somebody.. New EFI is easy, about $1300 will knock that out with one of three nice throttle body solutions. As stated previously the bubbling rust is frightful to many, myself included, because it hints at  much more involved project than what you see on the surface. Anybody serious about this car is going to want to take a good close look to understand the reality of what it is they are taking on. I like the later Cudas / Challengers. Not a fan of the bumpers / running lights, but if you are going to do body and paint those two things are VERY easy to fix. The car completely done is worth $30K... Somebody is going to easily spend $15-20K do get it there. So I am going to ballpark it's present value at ~$14-15K. I am shocked at what body and paint work on these cars cost these days. The numbers I stated are if the person restoring does a lot of the work themselves.

[anlauto]

Quick Sale : $12K-$15K 
Average Sale $15K-$20K 
A little harder time selling $20K-$25K 
Waiting a Looooong time to sell $25K-$30K 
Ain't gonna happen sale $30K+ 

I've sold several cars on "Cars-on-line" web site.....One price, runs until you sell....don't be surprised if it goes overseas... 

And these are US prices?  Just to clarify . . .

YES...but I would say the same for CDN as well

[Deadeye74]

Sorry guys...I didnt mean to bail on the post...just my brain grape has been causing havoc with my head and vision lately.

@anlauto...Thanks for the advice Alan.. hopefully it will go to someone I can deal with face to face...but I would work with anyone with it as long as it checks out to be legit.

@RUNCHARGER...good point to document the process. If it comes down to an overseas sale..I'll probably have to check back with you guys to verify I'm doing it right.

@Spikedog08...good catch..I wouldnt have thought about that. 

@quapman...I wont sit here and defend rust for sure...but the cowl isnt that bad except for one spot...and yes I know how the rust chase goes. The main reason I put screen in the openings was to make sure nothing got in while in storage and started rotting. The main rust is where it was originally...lower front fenders by the door...and the lower rear quarters along with some of the rockers...and the drivers side around the windshield. The tiny bubbling on the roof back by the rear window I believe is from poor paint adhesion or contaminates. Unfortunately I didnt have the best of the best to do the body and paint at the time...in fact they were the only ones in the area that would do restoration work...everyone else only did collision. The 74's were considered the last of the dinosaurs...and being the lowest numbers may be an advantage in the near future...dunno. I had thought about putting the original radio back in the car but I really have no need for the stereo. Its not one of the car shaking systems like they have now...I just put quality components in it for clean sound. I think someone buying the car that doesnt want it back to factory would appreciate not having to buy and install a good sound system.

@ledphoot...I hear ya about the bumpers...not only the looks but after owning my first 74 and dislocating a knee every time I worked on it...the front ones came off this one first thing after I bought it.    Yeah with the FI systems they have now that will be an easy fix. It has dual 3/8" fuel lines to the tank already. With that brought up to date the mechanical aspect of the car is great. I cant think of anything else besides the AC that doesnt work. Basically a complete drivetrain with 9500 miles on it that I wouldnt hesitate to drive cross country with...once I knew all the seals were still holding. I put around $25k total in it back in 1995...thats like $46k in todays dollars...so yeah the cost of things are ridiculous. When we grew up we did auto repair and welding in school...and that sparked interest for guys to do it for a living...but now you dont have that so the supply and demand for good body and paint dictates the extreme cost as well IMO.

Well...I appreciate the input...I will try to get this thing listed asap. I think I will list it at $19.5k and see what happens. I see a bunch of 72-74's come out of the woodwork for sale while I was away...one that looked like they spray bombed the whole car (rust bubbles and all included) then wiped the windows off..for what $17-18k!   

[quapman]

I have also been looking at cudas a bit more recently as well. There's a "sweet spot" price, but I have yet to figure out what it is. My original opinion was based on the 73 I sold last year, turn-key 440 auto for $23k that became the cover car of a French car mag. It was far from perfect, but based on ASKING prices I see a year later, it would be $30k now. That's 100% insane. I see the positives in your car, but buyers like to take an asking price, then add up the negatives and subtract them from the asking price. It's the new common core math I guess. I could see a dealer buying yours, fixing it and flipping it, but dealers want to double up, so they'd offer you $9-10k.

The stereo thing might have an age factor. I'm 52 and don't give a rat's ass about it. A used system is worth about $50 to me.

[rhamson]

Haggerty has it at $30,000 but with the issues you spoke of it will be much less to a savvy buyer. If the Buyer is a flipper he will probably offer around $10,000. That way he can flip it for $15,000 and make a profit. If he fixes it up he will probably put out another $7,000 to make it right and will have to sit on it to get to maybe $20,000. If you find a novice you probably will get around $15,000 and they will pay to fix it up as they play with it. Even with all the original parts the car is not as you say in the collector years of interest.

[RUNCHARGER]

One thing's for sure. I am not going to buy in this market. If it never comes back, will so be it. An E-body is a luxury for me and not something I will overspend on. So I may be out of the hobby I think.