Another Tire, Wheel Question? Sorry...

[Brads70]

Lots off good replys! A little more info from me. I can take some time to choose Brand of tires and Wheels. I want to make definitive choices
of tire and wheel sizes and even more important in the short term. Choose

1. 1 inch, 1 1/2 inch offset rear spring shackles, or original or AR engineering Shackles?
2. My E-body rear end housing or a B-body of what specific year rear end housing?
3. Do I have to roll the wheel housing lips with what ever tire/ wheel combination I choose?
4. If means anything I have Dr. Diffs 11.7 rear disc brakes ready to install in this rear end housing.
5. I may eventually have a set of rear tires/wheels to put on and take to the drag strip? So I want to have the clearance to do that.

As I said initially I want to at least start assembling the suspension.

What's your intended "usage"  for this car? How many miles a year do you estimate, street cruiser/car shows most of the time, track time?  Are you happy with your current gear ratio? Any future plans like OD transmission?  What percentages of HWY  /in town driving?

[chryslers4ever]

Brads70 to answer several of your questions- Present rear end gears 355's (Possibly could change),  8 3/4 rear end, transmission SST A41 4 speed automatic (650 ft lbs of torque model) with a .70 overdrive gear ratio. Not going to be a show car only type of car. 

[YellowThumper]

First order of business is determining exactly what you want under there.
Many tire size options offered that will fit generically.
Second is then wheel size and offsets available for wheel of choice.
Now with that info you can determine required changes.
Choose a B rearend. You now have mounting flange locations that will determine offset shackles. If tires of choice are larger get required offsets and then relocate axel mounting plates as necessary.
If in doubt purchase a tire and wheel offset measuring device. Or fabricate a simple setup to mount tire for measuring. AND.... be sure to take dims from both sides of car. These were sloppily produced with loose tolerances. If you are trying to squeeze in everything you can. Don't assume they are equal.

[Brads70]

Brads70 to answer several of your questions- Present rear end gears 355's (Possibly could change),  8 3/4 rear end, transmission SST A41 4 speed automatic (650 ft lbs of torque model) with a .70 overdrive gear ratio. Not going to be a show car only type of car.

I have the same transmission, reason I asked those questions is you might consider ( if your budget allows) getting a B-Body width Dana from Cass (aka DrDiff) I had 3:54 to start with and with my engine combo/camshaft it was not "happy" at 65 MPH more like 85 MPH ,( I got stopped driving to Carlisle at 122 MPH?)  so I changed out the rear gears to 4:10. You could likely sell your 8 3/4 3:55 for good money as its a popular/desired gear ratio , then put that towards a Dana with 3:73 or 4:10. It could be one stop shopping from Cass, offset shackle kit rear end, e brake cables, and brakes. His rear disc brake kits fit both 8 3/4 and Dana. Chances are you likely wouldn't hurt the 8 3/4?  but for sure you will never hurt the Dana.... It was piece of mind for me, sold the 8 3/4 before it got hurt.  You mentioned drag racing and having different tires for that. Sticky tires...That would be where you would hurt the 8 3/4  if you were going to hurt it at all. Again piece of mind, I'm more of a " overkill/overbuild" kind of guy, " do it once, do it right" sort of a thing. I hate buying the same part twice for the same car. Just my 


Dana pro's....
right width( b-body) for maximizing tire width. Cass knows all the required measurements
One stop shopping,parts all compatible, saves on shipping also
brakes from 8 3/4 all bolt right on to the Dana
opportunity to get the right gear ratio
everything is new, not 40-50 year old worn out parts
Upgrade Dana to truetrac, it's amazing!
Strange S60 is lighter than original Dana.
Piece of mind!
Adds resale value to the car
Dana cons....
cost
New driveshaft, can't use the one from your 8 3/4

PS I used this cover, stainless, never rust.... Looks great from the back.... you  gotta give the Chevy's something shiney to look at. 
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ktl-304m60/overview/

[chryslers4ever]

Brads70- Dr Diff, Cass is a great guy. I was hoping I could get away with better axel's and Truetrack (which were on my to buy list). If I can at least decide on a B-body (which year) rear end that will help me start acquiring parts Unfortunately, I buy a few parts at a time. LOL.... But I will get there.

[Brads70]

Brads70- Dr Diff, Cass is a great guy. I was hoping I could get away with better axel's and Truetrack (which were on my to buy list). If I can at least decide on a B-body (which year) rear end that will help me start acquiring parts Unfortunately, I buy a few parts at a time. LOL.... But I will get there.

Price out all the parts you need for the 8 3/4 add in labour if your not doing it yourself and I'd bet the Dana would come in around to pretty close to the same price and be bullet proof. When I did the math.... that was the deciding factor and I'm not a wealth person either.
I've read of some issues with the trutrack in the 8 3/4 not being so good. Nothing, no issues in the Dana though. I'd contact member crash340 for his advice of a truetrack in a 8 3/4? 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=106207.msg1042962#msg1042962

[dodj]

I put a tru-trak in my 8 3/4 last year and it has been trouble free.