Best application for local weekend cruiser conversion front drums to disc?

[MatchlessIndian]

Guys, what would be the best option for me to convert my front drums to disc? I know there are kits and then there is the A/B body bone yard swap conversion. I have a limited budget trying to get everything ready to finish this car and wasn't sure which way to go. I live in a mid size city and the car will be just a local weekend crusier (it's a 71 340 R/T currently with all drums). Any suggestions?

[EV2RTSE]

Good article -

https://www.moparaction.com/2016/03/16/disc-main/

[Mr Cuda]

I would like to counter that article by saying  that my preferred spindle is the 73 up B or F body spindle.
Basically any mopar 73 up non A body. They all have the same part number until 1980..
Now the article says not to use them because they are taller, which they are. This is normally considered a good thing as it changes something for the better (I believe camber when turning). All the other brands reccomend taller spindles as a upgraded mod. Of course the article says they offer  their own casting of the shorter height ones.
The argument that the upper ball joint is over angled  is something to check as most people lower their cars. Lowering is a whole topic to get into as it alters alignment and spring rate, which is too soft to begin with.
Back to over angled  upper ball joints,  buy tubular or cut and weld your uppers. They are mild steel and you have just welded your entire rusted car  together,  I don't think a pie cut and weld on 3/16th steel will be difficult.
Moving on, the 11.75" cordoba  rotors and caliper brackets are a good upgrade. Now all you need are 70-74 e or 71-2 b calipers. This is where things get harder. I saw them get short supplied15-20 years ago and started whoring them up. Don't know where you might find them now.
BUT! WAIT!! since bearing size changed in 73 on all mopars,  you can put 73 C body rotors on F body spindles with the tall bracket.  This allows you to use 69-73 C pin calipers on your E. I'm sure many people have bought c body calipers thinking they were b-e only to find out the caliper bridge is wider, or haven't figured that out yet until their pads wear down and they spit a pad.
I have the 69-72 C rotors  on my 71 because because of the smaller  bearings. I stuffed them in with half worn pads so I could use my E calipers  and not have to rebleed the system. To get the rotors to clear the B big brake brackets,  you do have to grind some clearance on the caliper bracket,  its minor,  no strength issue.
Stops from 100mph are much better,  especially the second time with all the brake mass.
** tall bracket 11.75 rotors  requires 15" wheels ***

[Brads70]

 

That's one reason I used 73 C-Body spindles. 

https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/-using-c-body-spindles-on-an-e-body-and-a-body-lcas-and-viper-calipers/58/

[Bullitt-]

  You mentioned budget... I know there are better ways and maybe cheaper ways, if you can source boneyard parts, but this may be the lowest cost way to accomplish using a single source. 
  https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1962-74-Mopar-B-E-Body-Front-Disc-Brake-Kit,3793.html
Would still need a proper master cylinder & proportioning valve.

[bc3j]

I found that the parts that work well together are all Mopar sourced. Dr Diff is a good resource. My system is modeled after the article and I have good braking.

[MoparLeo]

The factory disc brakes are more than adequate for street driving. The guys that recommend going against the article tend to be more performance oriented.
Remember to also get a disc brake master. The calipers have much more fluid capacity than the wheel cylinders had.
The disc brake upgrade in the article has been duplicated for almost 25 years. Here is the most recent dated update.
https://www.allpar.com/threads/disc-o-tech-stop-on-a-dime.237038/#post-1085245451

[Dakota]

I have a "sunny day" driver.... don't autocross or run at the dragstrip.   This kit worked fine for me:

https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/mdc62dc

There are more expensive kits available with drilled & slotted rotors, chrome finishes, etc. from this vendor and others.

The only real challenge was adjusting the pushrod length for the master cylinder change so that the brakes engaged before the pedal hit the floor (my first couple of stops were unnecessarily exciting until this was addressed).

[tparker]

I have a 67 Dodge D100 I am going to switch over to discs and someone mentioned this site. It's not all mopar and some may have other thoughts on this for whatever reason. It's cheap and worth checking out. 
https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=64

[MoparLeo]

You don't want your budget to be your ultimate guide. Brakes are the most important system on your car. Doesn't matter how much power you have if you can't stop.
Even a budget changeover using new parts will set you back $400 +
If you don't have that much now, just wait until you do. Do it right and you will only do it one time. The factory setup is just fine. You can upgrade the performance with higher quality rotors and pads.
Keep your rear brakes in proper adjustment, Flush the brake system every 2 years and you will be set for a lifetime of normal driving.
Your cars brake system right now is over 40 years old, just think what a new system will do...

[BIGSHCLUNK]

 

Plenty of "GO" is worthless without plenty of " WHOA"

Years ago I did SSBC Was not the cheapest, but reasonable. Over 12 years later still doing the job with no issues! (and I've had to get on them a few times over the years) And was able to keep my stock 15" wheels. I think SSBC is gone now but consider more than just price.... it will be forgotten when issues arise