Best way to remove brake fluid from system

[GrandpaKevin]

Slowly getting parts in for my front disc brake conversion.

While doing the conversion I'm planning on replacing the master cylinder, proportioning valve, rear wheel cylinders and every brake line on the car.

I want to remove as much of the current brake fluid from the car as possible to avoid brake fluid spilling/dripping when I remove the old brake lines, especially in my painted engine compartment.

I was thinking of opening the passenger side rear bleeder and pumping the brake pedal to remove as much brake fluid into a container as possible then sucking any left over fluid out of the master cylinder.

Would I need to open and pump the bleeders on the rest of the wheels?

Is there a better or easier way?

Thanks.

[Cuda Cody]

Turkey Baster for the master then drain what's in the lines when you do the swap out.  When everything is installed then you put fresh fluid back in the master and flush the system.  Start with the furthest away brake first (rear passenger) and work your way back to the front drivers.   

[Rich G.]

I would do what Cody said and remove all the fluid from the master cyl. If you're replacing the lines you can just crimp the ends or fold the ends over. Or just put the caps on the ends that usually come with the new lines. The master cyl is usually the messy one.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I would gravity bleed all four corners. Just take the mc cap off and let as much fluid drain as possible.

You can also run some denatured alcohol through it to help push the rest, it will evaporate and isn't aggressive on paint.


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[Burdar]

I would gravity bleed all four corners. Just take the mc cap off and let as much fluid drain as possible.

  Just open the bleeders and let gravity do the work.  You can put some vacuum hose on the end of the bleeders to direct the fluid into some cups for disposal. 

[JH27N0B]

Like said here, gravity bleed and cap off the master cylinder.
I wouldn't recommend running alcohol through the system.  When I worked at Raybestos I heard alcohol could possibly damage the EPDM seals.

[Daveh]

What everyone said but remember if you're using DOT 3 or 4 to wipe off right away what gets on the paint because it will begin eating it away if it sits on it for a bit.  Good luck.

[B5fourspeed]

Brake fluid will eat your paint down to the primer real quick.It will not go thru primer.Also have a big glass of water ready to throw down if the brake fluid gets on any paint.Water will neutralize the brake fluid.

[GrandpaKevin]

Thanks guys.

Keeping the brake fluid off the paint is the main goal.

Since everything is being replaced I might just suck as much fluid out of the master cylinder as possible and crimp all the metal brake lines shut.

I did a front disc brake conversion and went through the entire braking system the same way on my wife's Challenger last year and used DOT 5 fluid.

[Daveh]

I'm putting mine all back together after being painted.  The brakes are one of the last things to do.  I'm going with DOT 5 also because everything is new and I'm using steel braided lines instead of the rubber ones to try to avoid a spongy pedal.  I'm not too worried about it since I don't thrash the car like I did in my youth.      

Although I do have to use DOT 4 for the hydraulic clutch for the TKO 600.  I hear if you use DOT 5 you run the risk of hurting the seals and I don't feel like pulling to transmission to fix it.  Good luck

Just keep the water close by and you will be fine.   

Dave 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I have DOT 5 in my hydraulic clutch and brakes. It works, but I probably wouldn't do it again. It's a real pain to bleed and I'm not confident it's 100% clear of air.


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[GrandpaKevin]

I'm putting mine all back together after being painted.  The brakes are one of the last things to do.  I'm going with DOT 5 also because everything is new and I'm using steel braided lines instead of the rubber ones to try to avoid a spongy pedal.  I'm not too worried about it since I don't thrash the car like I did in my youth.      

We've driven the wife's car about 100 miles now and the pedal feels excellent and I haven't noticed any lockup of the rear brakes....yet.

Her setup is is pretty basic with manual brakes with 10.95" factory type disc brake conversion up front and factory 11" drums in the rear with 7/8" wheel cylinders.
Aluminum master cylinder and 73-74 disc brake proportioning valve from Dr. Diff.

Since the brakes are working so well I'm doing the exact same setup on my Challenger.

[Daveh]

If someone could tell me with 100% certainty that I wouldn't have any leaking issues with using the DOT 5 in the hydraulic clutch I would go for it but I don't want to risk it.  Talked to a ton of people some say it will be fine some say not.  Just have to be super careful.  So DOT 4 it is.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

If someone could tell me with 100% certainty that I wouldn't have any leaking issues with using the DOT 5 in the hydraulic clutch I would go for it but I don't want to risk it.  Talked to a ton of people some say it will be fine some say not.  Just have to be super careful.  So DOT 4 it is.

2,500 miles and about 10months since installed with DOT5 in my T56 magnum throwout bearing and wilwood master. No issues thus far.

Not the longest test, but it is working so far.


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[PlumCrazyRTSE]

A few years ago at the mopar nats, I saw a car that had just completed a rotisserie restoration and it was leaking badly from the master cylinder, back onto the brake booster and down the firewall.  It looked like one of lines into the master cylinder probably wasn't seated or tightened properly.  I'm sure the owner hadn't realized it yet.  The paint below the booster was destroyed.  I use DOT 5 in my restored challenger and have never had any problems with it.  After seeing that car at the nats, I would never again consider using DOT 3 or 4 in a restored car.