BS 340 Cuda torsion bars. Upgrades?

[FSHTAIL]

I'm figuring since I'm rebuilding the front end and using a bunch of qa1 stuff, why not look into some torsion bars if there are upgrades?

Are there any decent upgrades that won't rattle my teeth out, kill the ride, but handle a little better?

What size would a 340 BS 'Cuda have?     
Does anyone know the spring rates? 

[Brads70]

I'd recommend at least 1" diameter torsion bars, these cars were horribly under sprung originally. 

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

I went with Hotchkis 1.1" TB's, and I wish I had gone a little less... there was some confusion when I ordered them - Classic said were 1.030, but vendor lists as 1.1 as I look at the part number on their site now... I would say .98 to 1.01 would be max range for stock front weight...

The 340 just doesn't have enough weight to spring the bigger ones, so ride height is affected immediately when you start tightening the adjusters. Would not be a problem with a drop spindle, though...

[dodj]

Any of the 1" bars out there on offer. PST, Firm Feel, Hotchkis all offer thicker than stock bars. I bought the PST 1.03" bars and it made a dramatic difference in handling. I have a 'light' 440, (all aluminium except the block) and in hindsight should have gone a little thicker, maybe 1.1.


Hmmm Cuda_4_me and I should switch t-bars....

[anlauto]

I've used 1" bars in customer's cars with no complaints.

[MOPAR MITCH]

Hi Chris -- I've used many different TBs... T/A-AAR-Hemi (all same)... progressively thicker ... up to current max hex size to fit at 1.24" (hex is 1.25")... Don't be afraid of thicker TBs... too bad MaMopar didn't install thicker TBs way back then, but they also were using Polyglass tires... I commonly recommend at least 1.10-1.12, and FFs 1.18 is great TB size that will satisfy most performance drivers.   FF will make you 1.2 or 1.22, or the max at 1.24 upon special request (and they may have some in-stock from previous orders).   Believe me, whatever you choose, you will immediately notice a bit stiffer ride, but in no way extremely harsh... But, you can adjust the ride harshness with tire pressures, and also a factor if your're using very short rubber-band sidewall tires... the sidewall initially absorbs the bumps.

If you install ~1.1-1.2, you'll only say ... wow!.. Why didn't I get thicker ones???    I love my 1.24 TBs... and matched to near flat rear fiberglass mono-leafs... 225/inch (5-inch free arch).... and custom made 1.25" front and 1" rear sway bars... and adjustable Koni shocks (being replaced by new double-adjustable shocks (QA1 or Viking).

For tires, I use street/hwy/cruising BFG T/A 255-60-15 fronts, 275-60-15 rears, both on 15x8 mini-light rims.  For AX/HSAX/HPDE events, I use either BFG G-Force 255-50-16 front and rear mounted on 16x8 m ini-light rims;  or competition Hoosier A6 275-45-16 DOT radials on 16x10 light-weight rims.   The car has superior handling... and is completely streetable (always avoiding rough roads, pot-holes, etc).  Highway driving is best!!!

Enjoy your ride!!!

[FSHTAIL]

Any of the 1" bars out there on offer. PST, Firm Feel, Hotchkis all offer thicker than stock bars. I bought the PST 1.03" bars and it made a dramatic difference in handling. I have a 'light' 440, (all aluminium except the block) and in hindsight should have gone a little thicker, maybe 1.1.


Hmmm Cuda_4_me and I should switch t-bars....

I know there's a bit of a weight difference with the 440, thats why I threw the 340 stuff in the description..

What are the spring rates of these bars vs diameter?   

[Shane Kelley]

The 1.03 bars from PST work excellent. They are clocked so you can lower the car and still maintain correct tension. You lower stock bars and the front end is a marsh mellow. As mentioned above Mopar should have used the bigger bars from the factory. They ride just fine with no disappointments. Probably one of the single best upgrades you can do to the suspension. IMO

[RUNCHARGER]

I think quality shocks are an important part of the T-bar upgrade.

[jordan]

Runcharger is right.  You will need better shocks.  The TB will spring the car.  The shocks will give the ride quality.  Spend the money on quality shocks.  Adjustable shocks are best since you are in control of the ride.  Tune them into what you want.  You can always change them if it gets to be too soft or too harsh.  Definitely worth the money.  Lots of options now days.

[dodj]

I agree with runcharger and jordan, but it also reminds me..... once you upgrade one part....... 

[Brads70]

I agree with runcharger and jordan, but it also reminds me..... once you upgrade one part....... 

"mission creep"  seems to apply to every part of the car. 

As for the shocks I'm using QA1 double adjustable and am very happy with them. 
With the suspension , like building an engine, it's the sum of multiple parts that gives the results you desire. No one part is the "magic bullet" to make your car handle well. It's the sum of the right parts working together. I would buy good tires last, make your car handle well with "so so" tires so that your not "masking" tune able issues with good tires. Then when the tires go away your screwed. 
The number one reason I use the brakes now when cornering on the street is for the comfort of my passengers , not because the car won't stick in the corner.  The exact opposite when it was in stock form. 

[jordan]

It looks like Chris has done a bunch of mods already to get to this point.  The TB and shocks are just another piece of this puzzle. 

Chris......  Have you done any of the body stiffening parts?  US Cartool makes a great kit.  Subframe connectors, under radiator support, and upper shock apron to firewall braces will really tie the chassis together to let all of your suspension mods work best. 

[FSHTAIL]

I guess my last reply didn't send way back when I replied to you, the only thing I have are some old Hotchkiss subframe connectors.   

I plan on buying the US Car Tool stuff eventually, I'm just going to button up all this steering and suspension stuff I've got in the garage for it

It looks like Chris has done a bunch of mods already to get to this point.  The TB and shocks are just another piece of this puzzle. 

Chris......  Have you done any of the body stiffening parts?  US Cartool makes a great kit.  Subframe connectors, under radiator support, and upper shock apron to firewall braces will really tie the chassis together to let all of your suspension mods work best.

[kawahonda]

What's the size of stock A66 bars?

Can't imagine it's worth the upgrade given it's a 383 R/T suspension car, even with my upcoming 408 stroker. Isn't the A66 torsion bar very close to 1"?