Checklist for Alignment Shop-UPDATE Numbers IN

[Solarguy]

I finally finished up my front end rebuild, all stock moog components, regular rubber upper control arm bushings, rubber lowers,  etc and am awaiting tires which the tire shop should receive next week.  Tires will be Cooper Cobras, 235/60/15 front and 255/60/15 rear. 

What should I be concerned with regarding alignment?  I was going to remind  them to loosen the lower control arm shaft bolt before adjusting ride height, get me as much positive caster as possible with stock bushings, a degree or so negative camber and 1/8 toe in.  These front end arrangements  are common to most mopars for about a 20 year span so should I be worried about the process or am I just overthinking things like I usually do.  I've read some post about alignment shop horrors and it got me thinking. 

[1 Wild R/T]

Before you take them the car adjust the eccentrics so it goes to them with absolute maximum caster,,, Rear adjuster with the bolt head as far to center as it will go... Front adjuster as far out as it will go..... Speak directly to the alignment tech not a salesman, not a service writer, the tech....  You want a half degree negative camber, one degree is to much unless you want to trade tire wear for max handling... Which the fact you used standard upper bushings shows you don't....

When you get the car back look again at the eccentrics, the rear eccentrics should still be at maximum adjustment, the fronts will be slightly tweaked to set camber & cross caster...

[HP_Cuda]

As HP2 and Strawdog have mentioned before - you could have them copy the open specs of other cars if your shop won't take a custom alignment. For example I've heard the alignment for a 2005 Ford Mustang is very close.

I got lucky my shop will allow custom specs and I asked to get the max positive master. Then again I used the moog offset bushings as well.

[RUNCHARGER]

A lot of these guys have never seen an old Mopar. Also, one of my pet peeves is to make sure they adjust the tie rods to line the steering wheel up which makes sure the steering box is on center when going straight ahead.

[Solarguy]

Just got back from alignment shop, they got as close to the numbers (2.5-3 + caster, .5 Neg, camber and 1/8 toe in.)  as possible, could hit on left side exact but not right, compromised with these settings.  Car drives dead straight, no pull when braking, returns to center fine.

[Cuda Cody]

Must feel good to have that done!   

[Solarguy]

Must feel good to have that done!   

It sure does, I really notice it when going over bumps.  Now I have to fix the dash lights which went out while the car was down and that kills the budget until next year. 

[1 Wild R/T]

Those are really good numbers for having standard bushings, Offset would haver pushed it out to 4+ degrees & then you'd really love it....  With those numbers I'm sure it drives great...

[RUNCHARGER]

I am surprised it came in that good as well.

[1 Wild R/T]

I am surprised it came in that good as well.

I've had quite a few do that well, plenty that wouldn't too.... Thing is allot of alignment guys listen to what you tell them then do whatever the hell they feel like.... When the alignment is finished look at the eccentrics... If the rear isn't all the way in & the front isn't nearly all the way out there's more to be gained.....

[Solarguy]

 They took me to the alignment machine and showed me they could get over 4 deg. positive caster.  The problem was when they went for .5 neg camber, it put the caster below 2.5 on the pass. side (the drivers side they could get).  They suggested and I went with the compromise of 0 camber with  as close to 3 positive caster on both sides. 

Perhaps if I used the offset bushings set for more camber, that would have helped? 

[cordodge]

Mine will need this done shortly but I have the alterkation, anyone one have experience with one of these. I figure I can get it close to what their instructions are but not sure how well it will work??

[HP2]

Alter K is a whole 'nuther animal and has a much larger range of adjustment than stock parts.

[1 Wild R/T]

They took me to the alignment machine and showed me they could get over 4 deg. positive caster.  The problem was when they went for .5 neg camber, it put the caster below 2.5 on the pass. side (the drivers side they could get).  They suggested and I went with the compromise of 0 camber with  as close to 3 positive caster on both sides. 

Perhaps if I used the offset bushings set for more camber, that would have helped?

It drives great, don't worry about it... Another trick to gain caster is use washers between the lower ball joint & the spindle attachment, what that does is give you negative camber... It you don't have to trade caster for camber you get to keep that close to five degrees....

[HP_Cuda]

Here is what I got with Moog Offset bushings. You mileage may vary...