firm feel sway bar and skid plate

[mopar jack]

I'm restoring my 71 road runner and upgrading the suspension, I know not an E-body but the parts are the same. I added a skid plate to  the k frame and now the ! 1/8 bar won't go through. Had no problem doing this on my barracuda without the plate. Don't want to cut the plate off as I had every thing powder coated. Have others had this problem?

[HP2]

I had this problem with the stock k in my Challenger because it had 4 decades of jacking done to the center of the k-frame and it did not have a sway bar originally. To resolve, I took a 6' section of roll bar tubing I had sitting in the corner of the garage, slide it into the K,  and gently pried the bent section down until I could get the sway bar through it.  I did pry from both sides. Other tube would work too, as might a wooden wedge and a hammer.

[mopar jack]

I had this problem with the stock k in my Challenger because it had 4 decades of jacking done to the center of the k-frame and it did not have a sway bar originally. To resolve, I took a 6' section of roll bar tubing I had sitting in the corner of the garage, slide it into the K,  and gently pried the bent section down until I could get the sway bar through it.  I did pry from both sides. Other tube would work too, as might a wooden wedge and a hammer.

First thing I did before installing the skid plate was to repair the flattened area caused by floor jacks. It's an easy job off the car and done with a press. The k member has hole on top in the center, just put a heavy plate inside and press it down. My problem now is that it's powder coated sitting on a cart with every thing mounted to it. I can slide the stock bar through the hole and it is tight but the thicker firm feel bar won't go.

[MOPAR MITCH]

I've had the problem with the bigger 1-1/4" FF bar... my K-frame had also been bent a little from years of jacking up there... used a hydraulic spreader to open it up... was a bit difficult but... eventually opened it up enough that a larger than 1-1/4" front bar could fit in.... the FF 1-1/4" bar actually measures 1-5/16" OD.  (speaking of their hollow sway bars.... lighter weight vs solid by about 7 pounds ... as was my previous bar).

Also, be aware that FF front sway bars may be a little too long to clear the vertical links... I found the bar was hitting the LCAs.. had to grind the ends of the bar and move the kframe brackets/bushings forward by grinding the bushing brackets to clear the bolts/washers.   I called them about it ... informed them.... that maybe they are making their sway bars too long and/or needs grinding at the end-link holes.... so, beware.

[mopar jack]

I've had the problem with the bigger 1-1/4" FF bar... my K-frame had also been bent a little from years of jacking up there... used a hydraulic spreader to open it up... was a bit difficult but... eventually opened it up enough that a larger than 1-1/4" front bar could fit in.... the FF 1-1/4" bar actually measures 1-5/16" OD.  (speaking of their hollow sway bars.... lighter weight vs solid by about 7 pounds ... as was my previous bar).

Also, be aware that FF front sway bars may be a little too long to clear the vertical links... I found the bar was hitting the LCAs.. had to grind the ends of the bar and move the kframe brackets/bushings forward by grinding the bushing brackets to clear the bolts/washers.   I called them about it ... informed them.... that maybe they are making their sway bars too long and/or needs grinding at the end-link holes.... so, beware.

Wanted a hollow bar for weight reduction but weren't available and will definitely have to grind on the end of the bar. I installed one on my barracuda and it hit the lower arm.

[MOPAR MITCH]

I'm aware of another person who had the same problem with the longer arms of the FF sway bar hitting the LCAs... just had to grind them to clear the LCAs.... shouldn't have had to do that.  When I informed FF...  told me they make their sway bars to the same dimensions as the OE sway bars.  My own measurements showed their bars were too long and therefore required grind-to-fit at the LCA link areas... its simply too flattened that needs the grinding.   I'd be curious if other company's selling similar hallow sway bars have such a problem.

[HP2]

First thing I did before installing the skid plate was to repair the flattened area caused by floor jacks. It's an easy job off the car and done with a press. The k member has hole on top in the center, just put a heavy plate inside and press it down. My problem now is that it's powder coated sitting on a cart with every thing mounted to it. I can slide the stock bar through the hole and it is tight but the thicker firm feel bar won't go.

If you restored the opening to stock dimension then all it will fit is the stock .94 bar. Putting a modern bar that is .185" larger is going to require a larger opening.  You can try what I suggested earlier about hammering a wooden wedge in on both sides to flex it just enough to get the larger bar in there, but, moving it over around 3/16 of inch without cracking the powder is the question mark in this effort. If the K is warm or you can put some mild heat to it so it is more flexible, you might be able to move the metal without cracking the powder. But, I'll admit I've never worked with one of these skid plates, and based on its stamping, it may not move much at all.

Of course you can wait until its bolted in the car and then use a larger bar to bend it a bit but doing this without cracking hte powder is still the challenge. Alternatively, you can use the stock sway bar and step up to the next t-bar size to make up the roll resistance.

[Cratos]

 can I se a photo of the SKID Plate I have never seen one on a late model