Help Getting Rear Drum Off

[Cudajason]

Today I tried to get the rear drums off my cuda.

I know I need to back of the adjuster, but I can not get it go.  It is not seized, as I can spin it to tighten the shoes, but not to back them off.  I have tried to poke around move the adjusting lever off the start wheel on adjuster., but can not get it.

Any tips or tricks to get the adjusting level off the star wheel. 

Thanks? 

[DAYLEY/CHALLENGER]

Are the shoes holding it or is the drum stuck to the hud ?  Hammer time!

[anlauto]

BFH

[Cudajason]

Are the shoes holding it or is the drum stuck to the hud ?  Hammer time!

Shoes are holding it. I adjusted them out and now they won't turn at all. They were loose when I started.

[Chryco Psycho]

The self adjuster is connected to the rear shoe so in the rear opening you need to slide in a thin screwdriver & push the adjust out of the adjuster wheel then you can rotate the adjuster using s tool or second screwdriver

[jimynick]

Jason, I have the exact tool to do that, so if you want, I'll bring it to you. Just let me know. 

[Rich G.]

The self adj arm is on the bottom of the star wheel so you need to slide ( I use a piece of coat hanger ) under the wheel to push it out of the way so you can back off of the adjustment. Not as easy to get to like GM

[Cudajason]

Jason, I have the exact tool to do that, so if you want, I'll bring it to you. Just let me know. 

@jimynick that would be awesome!  even if you have a pic of the tool that is fine.

I am still working form home, so I am around most days, except Wednesdays.  Give me a call or just drop by.

[cuda hunter]

https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/cant-get-a-drum-off-of-shoes/21404/msg263071#msg263071

Maybe something here will help?

[jimynick]

I've got a wee selection if I recall and I'll bring them over tomorrow, hopefully! 

[Cudajason]

I've got a wee selection if I recall and I'll bring them over tomorrow, hopefully! 

@jimynick Ian, thanks for dropping by the tools.

It took some effort and all the proper things did not work. I think I buggered up the adjuster which did not help.

I tried cutting the pins that held the shoes, that did not help.

In the end I used my larger 3 jaw puller to get the drum off. I know I know. I like doing things the right way, but I got frustrated so I went with it. It took a bunch of force even with the puller. I got it and I don't think there is real damage. Other then to the shoes.

I have new shoes and hardware inc adjusters on the way. Sucks because all I was trying to do was change the wheel lugs. They came out very easy.

Might do new wheel cylinders while I have it apart.

Oh well projects are fun

[Dakota]

Glad you got your drums off finally.  I've wrecked more than one set of drum brakes shoes during drum removal, so I feel your pain.

You had mentioned removing the wheel studs.... is there room to do this without pulling the axles?   I have to put longer ones on my car.   Also, did you tap them out or use a tool?  I saw a handheld press that's available on Amazon, but at this point would prefer not spending the money for another limited future use tool.

[blown motor]

Yes there should be room without removing the axle. You will have to turn the axle a couple times to get enough room behind them.

[MoparLeo]

I recommend replacing those riveted shoes with bonded ones.
A couple of reasons, bonded are completely bonded on the entire shoe to lining surface. Stronger attachment. Also cracks develope at the rivet holes and the shoes can come apart in pieces. When the lining wears down to the rivets, the rivets cut grooves in the drums possibly ruining them. Replace all of the hardware at each reline. Heat downgrades the strength of the pins and springs. Thoroughly clean and inspect the backing plates for wear, particularly at the contact pads where the shoe makes contact with the backing plate. They must be smooth, no grooves for the shoes to move freely during braking. Polish and lubricate before you install the shoes. Since rear brakes are rarely replaced it is also a good time to service the outer wheel bearings by cleaning and repacking with good grease.
Replace the inner axle seals every time and the outer seals only when they leak, not weep.
Correct stud re install procedure is to always press in from the back side. Lazy way that can damage the studs is to replace on the car with washers and just powering down a lug-nut on the stud. Old school studs 1/2" x 20, have weaker materials and that the torque setting is only 65 ft lbs.

[Brads70]

Jason , if you find you need and axle or what ever? I have my old  8 3/4 still sitting here, your welcome to what ever you need? I did install all new studs in my axles as well. I did use the drum brakes on my Javelin so just the housing and axles are left.