Main Menu

How to reduce body roll -70 Cuda with Hemi

Started by Mopsquad, February 12, 2018, 05:10:33 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Mopsquad

Took both my classics out on the weekend, me in my Mustang and my buddy drove the Cuda.  Seeing him in my rear view mirrow going around curves, wow! that's some serious body roll! - kinda reminds me of the Bud Linderman videos of the 60's and 70's.

I feel it doesn't handle that well when I drive it, but now I see part of the problem.  It has the 426 in it so that's uber heavy, stock suspension and all new with less than 1500 miles on it.

What changes would you prescribe to help the handling around corners?

anlauto

Do you want to keep it stock looking ? I wonder if they upgraded the torsion bars when adding the Hemi ?
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Brads70

Obvious one would be bigger sway bars, but also bigger torsion bars, factory bars are horribly under sprung.


RUNCHARGER

Yup: Bigger sway bars and bigger torsion bars. Also if you want to spend money, aluminum heads, WP etc. 17 inch rallyes with low profile tires helps as well.
Sheldon

303 Mopar

If they didn't upgrade your torsion/sway bars, did they look at your rear springs or shocks?

CudaMoparRay

Looks like throwing a hemi in our cars that did not come with one requires some extra components.
These upgrades are never just that simple I guess.

61K T/A

#6
Sub frame connectors are worth the time and money to install. Does your car have sway bars? Aluminium heads, intake, radiator, water pump, mini starter,  Borgeson box will lighten up the front approx. 74lbs.


ToxicWolf

When we put the hemi in my 70 challenger we added a lot stiffeners to keep the torque under control.

http://store.uscartool.com/dodge-challenger-E-Body-chassis-stiffening-pack.html


Lloyd Lind

I have a full steel hemi in my car and a world block to boot so extra weight in that casting for sure. I put the street handling torsion bars on it and a set of fourth-year-old super stock rear springs so I could relocate the rear springs for tire clearance. The front sway bar is so big I had to put it in through the k frame before mounting the skid plate, 1. 25 I believe and the rear is close to one inch 7/8? I think. I put truck shocks on the rear to get the longer shock I needed for travel d 100 1974 I believe

. It feels good without being harsh and it goes around corners ok, I still don't trust it totally with all that weight on the nose but I think it handles way better than some of the stock 440 and 383 cars I have owned in the past so I'm happy with it. Still, not a small block feel but hey it's a Hemi.

Mopsquad

At this point, stock looking isn't too important.  Coming from the highly modified early Mustang crowd, I do see that the Mopar crowd values originality much more. I do want to travel and have fun in this car so some good quality new engineering is welcome.

Using 17" Rallyes and new rubber.  A big difference over the Polyglas and 15"s

Can you see the torsion bar type from this photo?


bbcode image link

anlauto

With that level of restoration, I would hope they put larger torsion bars in. Although it may be hard to see.....well it's on a hoist look at the open end of the torsion bar for a three digit part number should be 780 781 to handle the weight of the Hemi. if you want to improve them, you can buy aftermarket larger ones   :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


HP_Cuda

Know that you will never match a GT40 or Cobra for handling but you can get a much better feel than stock.

On my ride I did (keeps it somewhat stock looking):

1.06 Torsion bars
Large front sway bar
QA1 adjustable shocks all around
Hemi/440-6 rear leaf springs
Moog offset bushings - more caster/camber
Also have sub-frame connectors which stiffens it up

With the power steering it's a breeze to throw it around so I will be adding in the washers to bring down the psi on the pump to give a little bit more road feel.
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Mopar451

Having owned my 70 RT/SE for 44 years I can give some tips but I won't go in depth.  The more you go with (lean towards) handling, the further you will stray from stock components.  The replacement components can be made to look more stock but eventually you will enter the realm of "modified" (one of the categories I frequently see at car shows).

Tires with compounds (UTOG) of ~200 will help get you there.  Lower profile aspect ratios of these tires in wider widths with properly matched wheel widths will help big time.  For example, I use a 275/50/15 rather than a 275/60/15 for this very reason.  So if you think of the tires as what is making the car slide you would be correct.  Tires however, have nothing to do with body lean or roll.

Suspension components that need to be addressed would be torsion bars, front sway bar, rear sway bar, rear leaf springs, and shocks. These are all the main components that have a direct control over roll and sway. I have left out control arms, steering linkage components, strut rods, bushings, and etc. These are not main components but things like bushings and attaching points locations can be optimized while still looking stock.

Transferring weight from front to rear (i.e., aluminum components up front battery to rear) is almost as important as everything else previously mentioned. So is lowering (not slamming) chassis. Try to maintain a 1* (degree) rake.

The fun part for me is looking stock from the outside (even with widened rallyes and tires) and having a flat cornering machine. If you can (without scratching) put weight on one front corner of a fender and the opposite side also lowers then you are on the right track.  Have fun, be safe, and good luck.

Mopsquad

Thx everyone.  The stock look isn't too important.  I know the restoration was very authentic but I wasn't the one throwing gobs of money at it.  Just good timing on my part.  I'll take a look at the torsion bar part#'s.  The rear springs are hemi/440 type.  I believe offset with one more leaf on one side. 

The power steering upgrade is in the future as well.  Right now, I'm focusing on converting to dual quad fuel injection and the front end handling.

6bblgt

a pair of calipers (or open end wrench) on the diameter of the torsion & sway bars will answer the question quicker

stock '70 HEMI torsion bars were 0.92" dia. (<15/16") front sway bar 0.88" dia. (7/8")