Need help with rebuilding a master cylinder

[Brads70]

I'm helping out a good friend restoring his 68 Charger R/T 440/4speed. It has quite a few numbers matching parts and Mike would like to keep it that way as much as possible. Car only has 62K on it. It's like a time capsule in a lot of respects!   
Today we removed the M/C and disassembled it to find the bore has some pretty good pits in it from sitting for 40 years.We got a hone and tried honing it for 20 minutes or so and am not satisfied with what we have.   My question is can I machine it out for an oversize rebuild kit if there is such a thing?
I'm thinking  like an overbore of .010" or something like that? If so where would I buy such a kit?   I've never rebuilt one before but it doesn't look like rocket science?
Any words of wisdom? 

[1 Wild R/T]

Typically the unit is sleeved, brass or stainless both are used.... Doubt it's a problem in brake M/Cs but I've seen on a sleeved hydraulic ram where fluid got between the cylinder bore & the sleeve & it started pushing the sleeve out....  But that was a 7000 PSI 6" cylinder & the sleeve had a .125 wall...
The cylinder was heated, the sleeve was chilled & green lactate was used & it still pushed the sleeve... Just something to be aware of when sleeving hydraulic cylinders...

If you think .010 will clean it you could probably go back with the standard seals....

[Brads70]

If you think .010 will clean it you could probably go back with the standard seals....

Hummm good to know? I have no idea what you can get away with?

[1 Wild R/T]

If you think .010 will clean it you could probably go back with the standard seals....

Hummm good to know? I have no idea what you can get away with?

The seal is probably compressed .050 - 060 & when you induce hydraulic pressure it forces the rubber seal tighter to the bore....
FWIW in a different application a rotating lip seal (front damper) I've cut .050 off to fix a grooved seal surface & the seal still had good tension on the hub & sealed fine....