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Tierods 9/16 vs 11/16? Any other improvements while I'm at it?

Started by FSHTAIL, January 22, 2020, 10:44:37 PM

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FSHTAIL

Hi..   

Quick question in regards to tie rods and all around steering upgrades.. 

I've noticed optional listings for 11/16 tie rods vs. the standard 9/16's
Are there any benefits to this?     

I'm hoping to really tighten this cars steering/handling..   
I also plan on buying the proforged tierod sleeves to ditch the hotdog bun tierod sleeves, the stock style sleeves seem like they would have a bit of give to them..   

Are there any other steering tricks or upgrades while I'm in here?

Thank you..     

1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

7212Mopar

PST 11/16" tierods adjustable sleeves, adjustable strut rods, reinforced and welded k frame and LCAs, Hotchkis sway bar, torsion bars and adjustable shocks, poly bushings, greaseable pivot pins, all new Moog ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm, tubular upper control arms, Borgeson 14:1 steering box. Many have done this and more or something similar to retain and improve the stock suspension design.

Car handles like a newer modern car, may be turn in not as quick but very good overall. Need some modern radial tires and wheels and big brakes to go with that.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket

FSHTAIL

Quote from: 7212Mopar on January 22, 2020, 11:27:08 PM
PST 11/16" tierods adjustable sleeves, adjustable strut rods, reinforced and welded k frame and LCAs, Hotchkis sway bar, torsion bars and adjustable shocks, poly bushings, greaseable pivot pins, all new Moog ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm, tubular upper control arms, Borgeson 14:1 steering box. Many have done this and more or something similar to retain and improve the stock suspension design.

Car handles like a newer modern car, may be turn in not as quick but very good overall. Need some modern radial tires and wheels and big brakes to go with that.

So far I have gathered....
https://youtu.be/vhyGdvWIdTM

I'm planning on getting Qa1 single adjustable on all 4 corners along with the proforged tierod sleeves and hotchkiss sway bar kit..

Is there a different car I can order Moog 11/16 tierods for that are a direct bolt up?

I'll get the big dog tierods and larger forged sleeves..
1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)


Katfish

C-bodies came stock with the larger tie rods.
So check out a Newport or something similar, RockAuto is great for checking this kind of stuff.

anlauto

I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

FSHTAIL

Quote from: Katfish on January 23, 2020, 04:23:54 AM
C-bodies came stock with the larger tie rods.
So check out a Newport or something similar, RockAuto is great for checking this kind of stuff.

70 Chrysler 300 FTW!   

I found the 11/16 versions..     

I think I'll order the QA1 tie rod sleeves..   
They cost a little more, but I didn't want to do aluminum sleeves and steel tierods together..
Made in Minnesota!    :banana:
1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

Katfish

Please post back when you get the sleeves.
I'm curious if they are the same length as stock.


HP2

Quote from: Chris Pauluk on January 22, 2020, 10:44:37 PM
Hi..   

Quick question in regards to tie rods and all around steering upgrades.. 

I've noticed optional listings for 11/16 tie rods vs. the standard 9/16's
Are there any benefits to this?     

I'm hoping to really tighten this cars steering/handling..   
I also plan on buying the proforged tierod sleeves to ditch the hotdog bun tierod sleeves, the stock style sleeves seem like they would have a bit of give to them..   

Are there any other steering tricks or upgrades while I'm in here?

Thank you..     

No, no benefit really to an 11/16 unless you are stock car racing with a 3000# car slamming into your front wheel.  A 9/16 tube can resist deformation up to 6gs of loading, which is way more than any of our cars can generate.  Now, ditching the split sleeve for a solid may be a slight tensile improvement, but nothing you will feel. Or if you can get an entire 11/16 set of ends and sleeves for less than 9/16 sleeves than there is an economic benefit.

Katfish

Interesting point, I know we're splitting hairs,
But if wonder if the weight increase of the heavier HW negates any strength improvement?
In other words, would a car with a lighter front end handle better?

7212Mopar

Looks like you pretty much got everything ready to go. Time to get rocking ready for spring. BTW, see if you can save and reuse the stock nut that holds the pitman arm to the steering box. The metal of the bolt that came with the Borgeson box is kind of soft. Test fit first and don't use the nut to press in the pitman arm. I need to clean up and chase down the pitman arm grooves with a small file to install.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket

gzig5

They put the bigger parts in larger heavier cars like the C-body because they stress the suspension more than a E-body.  I'm going to be using my car with tires and suspension components that the original designers couldn't have planned for, even in the AAR/TA's.  I think a sticky 295 cross section tire on the front is going to stress the body, steering, and suspension more in a corner so I put the bigger OEM parts in when I went through it last year.  Cost is the same essentially.  If you are going to push the car dynamically, I don't see why you wouldn't put in stronger, readily available parts.  Weight of the steering components would have negligible effect on anything.


GoodysGotaCuda

There are some terms running around this thread that may be confusing.

The "strength" of a 9/16" setup is more than adequate for the car, you will not permanently deform or break them.

There will likely be a subjectively noticeable -compliance- [deflection under load] difference between the two sizes. If you are really pushing the car and are in tune with its every move, you will notice the difference. Naturally, the 11/16" will be more favorable for this case.

That said I just run the hotchkis stuff on my car, their aluminum tie rod setup complements their upper control arms to help mitigate bump steer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1972 Barracuda - 5.7L Hemi/T56 Magnum
2020 RAM 1500 - 5.7L

My Wheel and Tire Specs

dodj

I have the 11/16 tie rods ends with the PST adjuster. I can't tell the difference. BUT, when the situation arises and I'm pulling over 6G's in a corner....I'll have piece of mind.... :stayinlane:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

torredcuda

I would think Chrysler engineers used 11/16" tie rods on C-bodies for a reason, may be overkill for most of us but can`t hurt.
Jeff   `72 Barracuda 340/4spd
https://www.facebook.com/jeffrey.hunt.750

Northeast Mighty Mopar Club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1486087201685038/

FSHTAIL

I figured if I can beef up anything on the car while I'm in there replacing it anyway, why not, it won't hurt anything. 

I ordered it for a 1970 Chrysler 300

The QA1 11/16 sleeves measure at 8" in length
They listed a Moog part number for the sleeve interchange and I cross-referenced that with the 9/16 e-body version and it is the same length.. 

Thanks for the guidance everyone. 
I'm going to enter some road racing events this season to earn my AAR stripes. 😁

Take care.
1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)