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1970 Challenger SE - Massive restoration

Started by BAM, January 24, 2021, 03:36:39 AM

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BAM

Quote from: R/T's 4 R/P on January 25, 2021, 08:15:24 AM
You should coordinate with the gentleman from Italy working on the 71 six pack Challenger. (Antonelli) I'm sure he's shipping items to that neck of the woods, too.

It`s all good, thanks. I pay about 700$ per 100kg so nothing too scary there.

The problem is to source everything i need and have them shipped all together

Moprr

Here are pics of the pedal assembly I have

mccannix

The brake pedal assembly you picture is correct for your car...you should be OK there


anlauto

The above brake pedal assembly is for manual brakes, will need to be modified slightly if your plan includes factory power brakes  :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

mccannix

Yep, just knock the two top studs out...modification complete.
Will need correct power brake firewall re-inforcement plate and pushrod

YellowThumper

Inside of cabin there will be a pivot shaft necessary the booster rod connects to.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.

BAM

#21
Ok, thanks guys. I`ll keep searching for the correct one that will not require any modifications or corrections.  :)

I`ll check now on the fender tag, if the car had factory power brakes.

Edit: on the fender tag, i don`t see a power brake option...Just the power steering but i definitely want power brakes.


BAM

Hello all,

I need some help with couple of things.

1. I`m looking to order a complete disc brake conversion kit front and back, complete with the master cylinder, power brake system. The car originally had drum brakes front and back. Anyone able to advise on a good braking system that will not be a pain to install? Any additional suspension parts are welcome as I`m planning to change everything there too. Do i need to buy front disc brake spindles? If so, will they just replace the drum brake spindles or i need something else for that?

2. I need to start the engine rebuild. The engine is a 318, connected to a 904 transmission which also needs rebuilding. Can someone advise on Pistons, rods, etc and what`s the maximum size i can go with the pistons? (looking to increase the capacity as much as it`s still safe). Is there any complete rebuild kit on the market that is in good quality?

3. I need to change the complete front suspension and I`m thinking to get a QA1 complete kit with a K frame too but before dropping a lot of money on that, maybe someone knows any better solutions and maybe cheaper than the QA1?

4. Looking for a vintage air kit as the car didn`t have factory AC. The new firewall that is about to be installed, is the one for the AC cars but i`m still not sure what`s the correct system for me.


Updates on the car:
1. trunk floor is in
2. trunk extensions are in
3. wheel wells repaired
4. the whole roof frame is ready
Thank you all for the help and patience.

RUNCHARGER

1) Honestly I would call Cass at Dr. Diff for the brake parts, he uses optimized factory stuff and it is all proven.
2) Overbore a max of .030 on the 318, other than that I don't know much about them, I would consider EngineQuest Magnum style heads (with earlier LA style intake bolt pattern) though as that will add life to a 318 and compliment better camshaft, intake system and exhaust. If cost and fuel efficiency isn't a factor a lot of people stroke them into a 390 but that's more involved and with a set of Engine Quest heads and other mods a 318 can be made to run pretty good.
3) A big part of being a Mopar car is the torsion bar suspension and I would optimize that by using bigger torsion bars, increasing caster using offset upper control arm bushings and bigger sway bars. Look stock but perform better.
4) The Vintage Air stuff is good although I personally have never installed one in an E-body. I used to sell lots of Vintage Air and never had a complaint about their product.
Sheldon

Tony 73

Hello from  :newzealand:, I have brought home a couple of projects but the wife and neighbours would never have let me get your car near my shed. Good on you for saving another E Body, will follow this with interest. :bigthumb:

BAM

anyone knows if the dash core/frame is the same for 1970 vs. 1971-1974?


anlauto

Quote from: BAM on January 31, 2021, 09:11:48 AM
anyone knows if the dash core/frame is the same for 1970 vs. 1971-1974?

YES..they are all the same from 1970 to 1974 Cuda or Challenger, don't matter
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Purepony

Welcome abd not to hijack but I have the brake pedal assembly I just removed from my 74
I have a few more parts since I'm removing my 904 for a 733

MoparLeo

Just an opinion on the brakes. Rear disc are not necessary and just create more down the road problems. It is harder to get a good, hard pedal with the conversions. These cars are very nose heavy and the front brakes do approximately 70 % of the braking. The rear are more than adequate. Best to use as close to factory parts as you can, especially because of your location.
https://www.allpar.com/threads/disc-o-tech-stop-on-a-dime.237038/#post-1085245451
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

usraptor

 :welcome:from Utah.  Do you plan on converting it back to LH drive? Nice progress BTW.