1970 FE5 'Cuda Build

[1970Cuda]

Thanks for the compliment! I appreciate the feedback.

I did put in the box today, but I did notice something a little unusual that maybe someone else has run into before. I'm posting a couple of pictures for reference. I'm seeing a gap between the heater box and the defroster vent and I've checked the shop manual and it doesn't show any "vent connector" between the two. Should there be one or is the box somewhat adjustable? The gap is around 1 inch or so. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I am hoping to install the metal dash frame tomorrow if possible, but i want to fix this first before I move forward. Thanks to everyone who's provided guidance on my project. This site is super awesome and it's amazing how much people know about these e-bodies.

[anlauto]

The gap is supposed to be there so that it draws in cabin air to mix with the warm air coming from the box to increase over all air flow to the defroster vents 

[usraptor]

I agree with Alan.  My '70 'Cuda is the same way.

[1970Cuda]

Oh wow, I guess I have a lot to learn yet! Thank you Alan and usraptor for your feedback – I really appreciate all the timely input and answers to my endless questions. You fellows rock!

I am going to see about installing my metal dash today (hopefully). And then the dash harness. (Or maybe vice versa, not sure which is the correct or better order of things, but it might not matter.) I'll post another pix, once that's installed.

[anlauto]

Build as much of the dash that you can while on the bench, then install it as a complete assembly

[1970Cuda]

Ah OK - I again really appreciate the suggestion and advice. Could I (or should I) go ahead and install the dash harness now or should I wait for the Dash to be installed first?

[usraptor]

Alan is correct.  Assembly as much as is possible in the dash before hanging.  Have a second person help you.  Keep the pivot bolts on each side, below the A pillar, loose and set the dash frame slotted arms onto those bolts and then tilt forward and attach one of the screws on the top leading edge of the dash.  (Hopefully you don't have your windshield in yet as it's not very easy to attach these bolts with the windshield in place) Start all the bolts loosely and once all are started make sure dash frame is tight against firewall area and then systematically tightened all bolts.  Don't forget too tighten to the two pivot bolts on the side pillars that the dash arms went into when you first started.  Good luck.

[1970Cuda]

OK, will do. I'll get a much done as possible on the dash as you and Alan have suggested – I'm glad I asked. I took it apart around four years ago and took a bunch of pictures, but still, since it is my first re-assembly, it helps to ask.

And yes, I don't have the glass in yet, so that should make it easier.

I am guessing though it makes sense not to put in the dash pad until all the dash is in then. I'm still waiting on the pad anyway to be refurbished (which has been almost four months).

BTW – Your pictures are great usraptor and your car is fabulous and very desirable (as you know of course). That was a lot of work and no doubt took a boatload of time. Thanks for posting all the detailed pictures!

[usraptor]

If it was me, I'd wait until you get the dash pad back. I also had mine redone and as well as it came out it still required some trimming to get it to fit correctly.  The trimming and fitting to the frame is much easier done when the dash frame is out of the car.  Plus it's easier to reach the attachments for the pad with the frame out of the car.  If it's been four months it shouldn't be much longer.  Mine took about that long or just a bit longer to be redone.  Just my   
BTW thanks for the compliments on my 'Cuda.  it's much appreciated. 

[1970Cuda]

Right – I trust your experience, since I see how nice your car turned out. I'll wait until I get the pad back then and then fit everything together before installing the dash as a unit. It is a little frustrating to wait for everything TBH. It takes forever to get all the parts ...

In the meantime, I still need to send out my VIN to have it cleaned and refinished. I kinda hate to do it after my experience w/the blower motor (which by irony I did eventually get back, but that's another story).

Still I have plenty to do like polishing stainless and put in some new tinted glass. I'm getting pretty good at removing and reinstalling glass :^).

Happy New Year usraptor, Alan and all e-bodies.org enthusiasts!

[usraptor]

I don't mean to keep telling you what to do, but unless your vin plate is really toast, you can easily restore it yourself and save a lot of money.  You just need to strip the paint off of it, prime and then paint with SEM black landau paint.  You can buy the correct repo rivets and decal from ECS.  https://ecs-automotive-concepts.myshopify.com/collections/mopar/products/factory-exact-vin-plate-transfer-rivets   They're not cheap so take your time applying the decal and use a good rivet gun when attaching to the dash.  Again sorry to keep butting in on your restoration. Just trying to help and save you a little money.  Happy New Year to you also.

[Ns1aar]

Since you've had the dash frame out I assume its been painted along with the car. Make sure there is a solid ground between them it could save you from chassing grounds. The wiper motor is sensitive to this. Also make sure the switches have proper grounds also

[usraptor]

To piggyback with what Ns1aar said, a good place to insure a good ground is on the dash frame arms where they attach/pivot on the bolts below the A pillar.  Make sure to clean the paint off to bare metal on the bolts and both sides of the washers, the frame around the bolts and the paint on the dash frame arms where they attach to the bolts.

[1970Cuda]

That's totally fine usraptor – I'll take all the great suggestions as possible on my restoration. I'm just absorbing all the good info. from you and others.

On my VIN, it isn't all that bad really – see picture. And since you provided the link to the source of the VIN plate transfer and rivets I can probably do it myself. (I already have the rivets, so maybe I can purchase just the transfer? I'll check it out though.)

Can I use a rattle can to paint the VIN or will it look terrible? I purchased paint from a fellow who deals only in MoPar Restoration paint.

On the metal dash frame, I actually wasn't aware that it needed to be grounded too, and yes, it was painted already with the correct paint (or so I was informed). I did post a picture earlier in this thread. It looks awesome to be honest. Fresh paint really makes parts look so much better.

[RUNCHARGER]

The ECS Vin plate transfer is good. You can blast and paint it no problem. It does look pretty good as-is. The VIN plate and build sheet are two things that I would never let out of my sight no matter what.