1974 Challenger Restomod

[Dmod1974]

On another note, I wasn't convinced that the PCM was faulty despite Mopar tech support and other experts telling me it was.  The OEM diagnostics for the codes said it was too.  So, I removed the PCM to box it up and ship out, but I decided to power it up on the bench for grins and low and behold, those codes did NOT set. 

So I put it back on the car, and sure enough, they set again.  I noticed that BARO would read correct for a few seconds after key on before jumping up to 16psi (should be about 14.4psi for my altitude) and setting the faults.  With the gray engine PCM connector unplugged, the codes didn't set and BARO read correctly.  Hmmmm.......  After ruling out bad grounds and shorted wiring, I ended up figuring out the issue.

The 2018+ Hellcat engines all received upgraded 3 bar (instead of 2 bar) TMAP sensors to better read higher boost levels.  There are 4 on the engine (pre supercharger, post supercharger, Bank 1 charge air cooler, Bank 2 charge air cooler). 

The PCM in the Mopar Performance control kit is still using 2017 and earlier TMAP sensor scaling in the software which caused all 4 to read incorrectly!  Some of you may have seen my videos where I found differences in the knock sensors, EOP sensor, and make up air hose that required some swapping to work with the kit.  Well, the old and new TMAP sensors use the same plug as well so I didn't know there was a change until I did some more research.  You can swap all 4 TMAP sensors to the old ones, or do what I did and use tuning software to rescale the MAP sensor values to match the newer sensors that can read higher boost anyways.

The P3032 and P2227 codes that were setting are a result of a KOEO rationality check against the 4 TMAP sensors and the BARO sensor in the PCM.  KOEO, they should all read pretty close to the same value.  If one is sticking out, a fault sets against that sensor.  In this case, all 4 TMAP sensors were reading the same (but WRONG) values, so the PCM flagged the BARO sensor as the issue and set the codes.  The BARO sensor is built into the PCM, hence why everyone said it was faulty.  The factory diag for these codes was basically 2 steps: check for low voltage and replace the PCM if the codes are active.

So after updating the TMAP sensor settings, the codes are gone and the car is no longer in limp mode!

Awesome troubleshooting DMOD!! 

Thanks!  I'm just glad I got it fixed without buying another PCM.  The vendor I bought it from was giving me the runaround about warrantying it out, and these are like $1000 out of pocket and on backorder to boot.

[Dmod1974]

I'm still waiting on my replacement glass, so I decided to fab up seat brackets for my Tiburon seats.  All in all, not terribly complicated and they really do fit well in the car.  I copied @Brads70 design for the most part.  I definitely got a workout lifting those seats in and out 100x and carrying them to the garage to cut/grind/weld.  I also started narrowing my rear seat frames to allow them to fit with my mini tubs.  The lower cushion is done, but the upper will require a lot more work.  Nothing that can't be done with more time, cutting, and burning metal.







It was nice getting this car moving out of the garage under it's own power for the first time in over 3 years!  Might need to bump up that ride height a bit though...  It's sitting really low with that heavy engine/trans, insulation, reinforcements, and sheet metal that isn't rotted out!

[YellowThumper]

That is looking so nice and clean.
Now add to that completely reliable for the win.

[Blowout]

I think it looks awesome as is!  Very nice.

[dodj]

Been watching since you started. Looking great! Amazing amount of work. 

[Dmod1974]

Yeah, might bump it up a bit just to keep the $2K TTI headers from scraping constantly.  These lovely IL roads have potholes and road debris that will take out a dump truck!  I got the quarter windows in and adjusted last night.  Boy, what an absolute nightmare!  My arms look like ground beef right now.  Not much space to work, and the Nu-Relics regulators take up a lot more space in the access window than the manual ones did.  Trying to fumble around and get the glass lined up with the main track and the two rollers on each side of it was infuriating, but, I got it.  The passenger side is adjusted nicely, but the driver side needs a little more work.  I might have to shift the drip rail seal channel outward since I'm out of adjuster threads.

[anlauto]

the Nu-Relics regulators take up a lot more space in the access window than the manual ones did. 

WOW...couldn't agree more, what a pain in the ass with those power windows...

[Dmod1974]

I'm still waiting on replacement glass so I tackled the interior carpet and other little odds and ends.  It came out pretty good and everything fit well even with the non stock seats, huge trans tunnel, and copious amounts of insulation.  I also mounted a Halon based fire extinguisher to the rear of the passenger seat god forbid something ever happens.

I finally settled on hood badging that fits the restomod theme I'm going for too.



I also started taking a crack (no pun intended!) at sanding out the scratches in my side glass.  I'm starting with the driver's side since it was by far the worst; it's almost like somebody taped sandpaper to the window felts and ran them up and down a few thousand times!  I've finished the 120 and 240 grit stages, and all of the scratches are pretty much gone now and the glass looks like it is frosted.  It wasn't hard, but certainly time consuming.  I'll need to go through 320, 400, 500, 1000, 2000, and then polishing stages.  1000 grit will absolutely not remove anything you can feel; 100ish grit is probably where you'll need to start with any decent scratches.  I'd attach pics, but they just don't show the nasty scratching as bad as it really is.

I don't have much choice since nobody seems to have anything in stock right now, and if this doesn't pan out they're garbage anyways.

[anlauto]

@Dmod1974 FYI AMD's website is now showing all the side glass back in stock after months of it being out of stock. For Challenger, I believe the back glass is still out of stock though..

[Dmod1974]

@Dmod1974 FYI AMD's website is now showing all the side glass back in stock after months of it being out of stock. For Challenger, I believe the back glass is still out of stock though..

Thanks for the heads up!  I think I'll wait for some others to buy and install from this batch before chancing AMD glass again.  They did nothing for me with their front/rear glass that was unusable.

[daaboots]

Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?

[Dmod1974]

Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?

2nd gen - 2003-2008 Hyundai Tiburons

[daaboots]

Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?

2nd gen - 2003-2008 Hyundai Tiburons

Awesome! I'll start shopping around 

[dodj]

Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?

2nd gen - 2003-2008 Hyundai Tiburons

What kind of price should a guy expect?

[Dmod1974]

Great work! I like the looks of those seats. What year was the Tiburon they came out of?

2nd gen - 2003-2008 Hyundai Tiburons

What kind of price should a guy expect?

I paid $175 for leather front and rear seats (didn't need or use, but they were sold as a set) about 9 months ago.