72 Challenger Is Back

[erat340]

What is the story on that caliper anti rattle spring bar? how is it exactly mounted and why?

[71vert340]

It came with the caliper and  is shown in the FSM. I installed it, since it was included, on the driver's side first. I have it just sitting on top on the passenger side but will install it tomorrow. Drawing shows how it installs over the pins.
 Terry W.

[71vert340]

Here is the driver's side showing the anti-rattle spring installed.
Terry W.

[erat340]

Thank you. I have a rh inner pad rattling and have tried that clip but it did not help.

[71vert340]

I'm thinking if the part labeled as the positioner is loose, then there may be rattling also. I have to check as mine on the drivers side appear loose.
Terry W.

[71vert340]

I'm working on the engine wiring harness and dash wiring harness now. The engine wiring harness that came with the car had several sections of the harness looped back and forth tie wrapped to itself to take up excess wiring. I laid it out and it's the wiring going to the distributor and to the coil. It looks like it is for a big block engine instead of the small block the car came with. Okay, not a problem. Probably replaced at some time. I am using the FSM and need to get an Ignition Control Module. I would prefer to stay with the stock ignition system. Only the 4 pin module is listed as available for Challenger, on line, unless I order the 5 pin 1972-74 Dodge M300 module. The 1972 FSM shows the car should have the 5 pin module. Why would every chart list the 4 pin module as stock? I've included the FSM drawing photo. What have some of you found with the stock system?
Terry W.

[71vert340]

 After doing more research on this, I found out that I use the 4 blade ballast resistor with the 5 pin Ignition Control Module and use the 2 blade ballast resistor with the 4 pin Ignition Control Module. Either will work as long as I use the correct ballast resistor.
 Terry W.

[71vert340]

Started work on the dash harness. I had to replace the engine side of the bulkhead connection box. It took about 45 minutes for me to change all the wires over. I cleaned each one and checked for corrosion. I have installed the black and red wires to do the alternator bypass and will not run it through the bulkhead connection box. For now, I connected both ammeter wires together on one ammeter post and will be installing a voltmeter gauge in the blank spot on the standard instrument cluster. The plastic on the connection box had too much damage for me to reuse. I'm checking all wires with a multimeter(ohms). I'm checking all bulb sockets for corrosion. I was surprised this harness is not all hacked up like most of the originals are. I only found one plug missing and it went to the parking brake pedal. I replaced it.  A few photos to show.
Terry W.

[dodj]

Thank you. I have a rh inner pad rattling and have tried that clip but it did not help.

The anti rattle spring only affects the outboard pad. For the inner pad try applying hi temp silicone brake grease to the face of the caliper piston to reduce rattle

[71vert340]

With help from the wife and my grandson, I got the dash back in tonight.
 Terry W.

[71vert340]

After almost a month of working on the brake system on and off, I now have brakes. The biggest problem were the leaks because of installing new lines, etc. The only parts reused were the rear brake shoes as they only had 500 miles on them. I would get a leak stopped, bleed the line and all appeared good. I would check a couple of days later and notice a small amount of seepage around a line fitting. Retighten, bleed again and wait. I think I'm finally good. Now to install the steering column and the engine bay wiring harnesses. After that, the engine and transmission. Woohoo! I also installed all the door mechanisms and glass yesterday with my wife's help. It works great with new parts.
 Terry W.

[71vert340]

 I'm almost to the point of having to get front seats. I do not want to use the original style seats as they are uncomfortable to me. I've read where the 2003-07 Tiburon seats are a good choice but the ones I see for sale are the passenger seat. Apparently, the driver's seat is usually worn out. I'm looking at aftermarket reclining seats that are also good for back seat access. Any suggestions?
 Terry W.

[YellowThumper]

Check out compact cars that only have 2 doors. Smaller cars will have more compact framework. But all seats are designed to fit today's bodies.

[71vert340]

YellowThumper, Thanks. I'm keeping an eye out at newer cars for front seats. I'm interested in newer seat because of the comfort, side bolsters and lumbar adjustments. My 2015 Challenger seats are great but big. Our 2021 Compass seats are great but the tracks are tall.
 Terry W.

[YellowThumper]

I have a Focus and a Cmax. Both seats are comfortable and supportive. Have thought of similar but they are 4 doors. So they don't move forward enough.
To me the best bet is to hit a local pull type salvage yard. They are butt test capable.