73 Cuda resto

[Brads70]

I'd go hydraulic  roller, not worth the risk with the available lifters they are selling these days. I have a Lunati in mine and am happy with it.

[Deezel]

Yeah, it's really been eating away at me. I've read soooooooooo many horror stories lately about flat tappets it's not even funny. 
It would be another hit to the pocketbook right now BUT it wouldn't be nearly as costly as having to pull the motor and do it anyway.

I've been hearing really good things about the Lunati Voodoo retro-fit kit, part number 20200712LKLUN. Supposed to make good TQ/HP numbers while still making enough vacuum to run a brake booster. I'll be running a 2800 stall with 3.73 gears so it should be a fairly good fit.

If I do go the Lunati route, can anyone suggest a good place to purchase them from?

[Deezel]

After ALOT of consideration, I decided to ditch the flat tappet and go hydraulic roller. The deciding factor was my lifter bore clearance was out of spec with the smallest being 0.0020" and largest being 0.0027". Spec for flat tappet is 0.0013" - 0.0019". I know they would have probably still been OK for a flat tappet but it was a good enough excuse to push me into a roller.

Did quite a bit of research and decided to ditch the RPM heads for this build. I bought a new set of Trick Flow 190 heads, Trick Flow roller lifters and am looking into a cam now. After talking with Comp, I'm kinda leaning towards the Xtreme Energy 236/242 Hydraulic Roller Cam. They are telling me this will make great HP and TQ, with the stroker kit, while still retaining enough vacuum to run power brakes.
I had searched for a Lunati roller but after contacting numerous retailers, it's starting to sound like they won't be making any SBM rollers anytime soon. I also see they only show 1 roller cam for a SBM on the website now.

I will find a use for the RPM heads and flat tappet cam/lifters for a different project further down the road or possibly put them up for sale.

[7212Mopar]

I will be following this post. Can't tell from the pictures but are you building a 71 front and keeping the 73 taillights? I see the 71 fender grilles. If yes, I think that would be the best Cuda combo that Plymouth could had done. Good choice to go with hydraulic roller and Trickflow got the best after market heads for SBM. My 416 was built by IMM and has a Comp CRS XR292 HR-10, 242/248 at .05, CNC imported heads, currently running 2800 stall converter with 3.23 rear. I think if my cam is one size smaller, it might be better. But the current camshaft still works great with a stroker that can take a lot of duration. Engine really comes alive at around 3500 RPM even with 3.23. I can cruise at 70 on the HWY all day long but not as great at a dig like a 4.10. You might want to take a look at Silversport overdrive tranny that can give you the best at both ends. Look forward to more update from you. 

[Deezel]

The fender gills were actually an afterthought. I seen a few pictures of 72-74 with them in and really liked it. I'm also going to be putting in hood pins.

I'm having my rear diff built right now. It will have a 3.73 sure-grip in it. I would have liked 3.91 but that wasn't an option.

Transmission is already bought. It is the SilverSport A41 and will have a 2300 - 2900 stall in it. It's already been delivered to an acquaintance down at the Canada/US border. I'm waiting on some other body parts from him so I figured I'd wait and just have everything shipped up together.

As for the motor, check out Terry Brighton (Brighton Racing) on YouTube. He builds all small block Mopars, strokers and stock. I'll be mimicking one of his past builds. It was a 408 stroker with TF heads and the Comp 20-813-9 roller cam. My compression will be a bit lower but I'd suspect it should be fairly close in the TQ/HP range.

 

[daaboots]

Motor sounds great! Very nice power numbers too 

[Deezel]

I haven't updated in awhile as, well, my car is now in bodyshop jail.
The owner has had a few issues and the car was, and still is, on the back burner for a bit. He's hoping to have the car completed and back to me by March of 2025.

On a good note, I ended up buying an acreage with my dream shop on it and will be moving in October. I do have room for 2 lifts so I'll most likely start with a 2 post lift and eventually put in a 4 post lift. That gives me the best of both worlds.

The Dana 60 is complete and waiting for installation. I went with a 65-67 B-body width and 3.73 gears with sure-grip. I'll be putting in the 1" offset hangers, if I can ever find a set. Dr Diff has been out of stock for close to a year now.
The new Silversport A41 is also in and is too waiting for the cars return.
All the pieces for my 340 stroker have arrived and I'll be tackling that job once I'm settled in at the new place.
The new seat skins are in from Legendary and I will be sending those out to an upholsterer to do. I just don't think I could get them as good as someone who does it for a living. He has also said he would come and help with the headliner once the car is ready for it.

Most of the Hotchkis suspension is in but I am still waiting on a few components. The rear sway bar is one of them. With that being said, does anyone know if the rear sway bar will still work with the rear end being narrower than a stock E-body?
Thanks.

[Brads70]

Sounds fun except for the body shop jail part. Yes the rear sway bar will fit with no issues. I had the Hotchkis rear bar on my stock 8 3/4 before I installed the Dana 60

[340sport]

Any Dana pics?

[7212Mopar]

Please take lots of pictures to cover your A41 install. Looking forward to that and how the car drives afterward. I think it is a must have if we are to drive our cars on the freeway with how fast cars are moving these day.

[Deezel]

Any Dana pics?

Just getting moved into the new shop so nothings really organized yet.
At least the previous owner left the Gantry crane for me. That'll come in handy!



Here's the Dana and the original 8 3/4 beside it.

[Deezel]

Please take lots of pictures to cover your A41 install. Looking forward to that and how the car drives afterward. I think it is a must have if we are to drive our cars on the freeway with how fast cars are moving these day.

I'll do my best to document the install. That's still quite a ways in the future though. Last time I talked to the body shop they were hoping to have my car done by January. In all honestly, I'm hoping for March.

Here's the A41, still in the crate it came on.

[Deezel]

It's been awhile getting settled into the new home but work on my engine build has finally started. I also got word that the body shop has blown the dust off the cuda and work on it has resumed! Hopefully have more updates on that soon.

It's been 20 plus years since I last rebuilt a motor but figured what the hell.

I had an issue before I could even really get started. All the bearing clearances for the new crank were tight. All measured at 0.001" - 0.0015". Called machine shop and they had me bring in the crank. They ground 0.001" off all the crank journals. After grinding, bearing clearance measured at 0.0022" - 0.0025".

Installed crank and it turns over smooth as silk. End play ended up at 0.005".

[Deezel]

Connecting rods and pistons went in without issue, all bearings measured between 0.0018" - 0.0022" clearance. I'm happy with that. Motor still turns over relatively easy with pistons installed. All piston rings were file fit as per instructions. There was zero clearance issues with the stroked crank and connecting rods.

[Deezel]

Cam and timing set in. Cam degreed at 106 degrees. Comp told me this cam will still build plenty of vacuum to run power brakes. We'll see if it does or not.
Here's a snapshot of the cam card, if anyone is interested.