73 Cuda resto

[Deezel]

I then got busy fitting up the windage tray and oil pan. I used the stock 340 windage tray and it only needed minor tweaking to get clearance. I did order a Milodon windage tray but it needed quite a bit of massaging so I opted for the stock one. The Milodon pickup and Melling HV-72 oil pump all bolted up without issue.





That was pretty much as far as I could go on the build as I had to check piston to deck height before I ordered my head gaskets. Turns out the pistons are at zero deck, right where I wanted them. I ordered a set of Cometic 0.040" x 4.125" head gaskets. Block was bored to 4.070". That should put my quench in the sweet spot and my compression ratio at 10.58:1.

I'll be checking piston to valve clearance and measuring for pushrod length once the head gaskets are in. Hopefully I can have that completed before I head back to work for 2 weeks.

In the meantime while waiting on more parts, I'll be busy getting the engine run stand put together.

[Jay M.]

Very nice! I tried to do business with the dash pad factory in El Paso, TX. I had to get my credit card company involved to get my money back. I was dealing with Alana (sp?).  Keep us posted. Jay M.

[Deezel]

Very nice! I tried to do business with the dash pad factory in El Paso, TX. I had to get my credit card company involved to get my money back. I was dealing with Alana (sp?).  Keep us posted. Jay M.

Dashpad Pros was good to me but far too many have had issues dealing with them. I can't even bring myself to recommend them anymore. I believe the dashpad factory are the same people as dashpad pros.

If you haven't got a dashpad yet, I keep hearing good things about ABC Moparts for getting a dashpad. I know you have to call them as all my inquiries to them via email went unanswered.

[Deezel]

Motor is alive!  

I know there are varying opinions about break in for a hydraulic roller but I figured it couldn't hurt so I ran it for 20 minutes or so at 2000 - 2600 RPM. Initial timing is set at 14, that's where it seemed to be the happiest. Motor never got over 195 degrees and on the second run, settled in at 185 degrees.

Zero issues on the initial run. No weird sounds and no fluid leaks. One thing that I forgot to check is how much vacuum it's pulling, for my power brakes. Comp said it should be sufficient. I was surprised to see the oil pressure drop to 35psi or so at hot idle but I don't think it's anything to worry about. When I first bought the car, the hot idle pressure was around 20psi.

I dropped the oil and found next to no metal filings in it. Magnet on oil pan plug had just a small trace. Still need to open the filter to see if there's anything in there but that will have to wait until I have my filter cutter.

So far I'm pretty happy with it. First motor I've rebuilt in over 20 years and it seems to have gone off without a hitch.
I made a couple short videos and uploaded to youtube. Tach on that run stand is out to lunch. Idle was set at 800-850.
I'm definitely not a videographer....

[Deezel]

Motor is off the run stand and back on the engine stand. I won't fire it up again until it's found it's resting place in the car.

Put the front serpentine system on it and just hung the headers to see how it looked.
I think it looks pretty darn good! 
I'm thinking my next step will be to get some sort of k-frame stand figured out and start getting as much put together as I can before the car shows up.

[YellowThumper]

Good times on the motor fire up.
Solid progress.

[Deezel]

I've made some more progress in the last month or so. I'm just going to keep these posts short and sweet as I haven't documented on how everything goes together, just the finished product.

First thing was to build some sort of K-frame jig so I could get everything put together. I thought about welding one together but decided to just use what I had.



Bought some new casters for the engine run stand and threw them on the k-frame jig for now.
Took the motor off the stand and mounted it on the frame jig.
Have I mentioned just how much I love the gantry crane the previous owner left? It sure makes jobs like these super easy.



Next was to put the transmission on. Laid some boards across the back and just set the pan on it.
Everything is rock solid and well supported. From what I've read, the transmission tunnel lip will have to be rolled for clearance. I'll have the body shop do this before paint.

[Deezel]

Next was to tackle the front suspension. It's a mix of Hotchkis and QA1 parts with Wilwood 12" front disc brakes. Everything is tightened up but not done to final torque values yet. I'll do that once I have everything mounted in the car.
The brake bolts and components have been torqued and Loktite used though.

[Deezel]

time to test fit the headers to make sure everything fit. I did have to take off the straps that mount from the lower motor to transmission for clearance.
I also had to shim the top bolt on the Borgenson steering box. It didn't fit flush against the QA1 k-frame. Not a big deal, just a couple washers added.

[MoparCarGuy]

Your fabrication skills should help with a skid plate for that oil pan.
The road will not be friendly.

[Deezel]

Not quite sure why I'd need a skid plate for it. It's sits up higher than the k-member does.