NorCal 73 Challenger

[RUNCHARGER]

I wouldn't get stuck on the Fitech if they can't supply it. Holley makes a good system too.

[Topcat]

Warren,

Big Mopar cruise planned in May.

San Jose Bass Pro Shops to Alameda Naval Air Base.

We need you there for that.   

[7212Mopar]

I need the FCC2 so I don't have to get an inline pump that can fail easy. I also got a new SS stock replacement tank. I don't think Holley makes a FCC2 or similar. May be combine the FCC2 with the Sniper EFI.

Mike, I am feeling the pressure now. I hate to miss another one. Waiting for Summit to respond.

[7212Mopar]

After some waiting, about a month ago, Summit automatic order cancellation kicked in and sent me an email that my Fitech order was cancelled. Called them to reinstate the order and the lady told me the goods are in stock and they can ship the same day. So I said great, lets do it. Not knowing that this resulted in a new order date and my $100 Fitech mail in rebate is no longer applicable. Anyway, I am still pleased that I got it the following day and started the install in the following few weeks. Everything is nicely packaged and good quality. The only exception is the handheld power supply terminal. They picked the smallest form factor of the male end power pin. It is really wimpy and won't stay connected and powered up if you move the handheld around. Really bad design.

I had to remove the washer bottle and fab a mounting bracket for mounting the FCC 2 but it is a good spot for it. I don't plan to drive the car on a rainy day so it would be ok. The rest of the install was very simple since I prepped the engine area ahead of time and the TTI header already have the bung for the O2 sensor. I did howerver, had to get a new air filter lid becasue I needed to use a 1/2" extension in order to clear the fuel line connection from the drop base air cleaner. The new lid is shorter than my old lid which only left about 1/8" clearance to the hood. I have about 1/2" now with the rallye hood. A flat hood would not clear if using the RPM air gap intake.

First time turning the key and engine won't start. I spend the next two weeks checking wiring, voltages and distributor timing. I even added a separate mounting post for the power directly connected to the battery instead of off the starter relay. In doing so I managed to broke the relay and the positive battery cable. Both were old and the internal of the relay short circuited so I had to get new ones. Everything checked out good after but still no start. I was starting thinking if I shorted the CPU but I got readings plus I can read write from the handheld. So today I tried again and engine wants to start but can't quite make it. I then open the throttle with the gas pedal like treating a flooded carb and the engine came to life. I had to keep applying the pedal or the engine will die. Checking the handheld and the IAC was way up in the 165 range and the IAC intake port was really sucking air. I then play with the TPS screws a few times and the IAC is now between 3-7 when warm, which is what Fitech say it should be. Engine can now start without the gas pedal. Lots of tuning and checking and tidy up ahead. Today was raining really hard so I did not take the car out. I just play with the engine throttle in the garage and stink up the house again. Actually the Fitech is less smelly than the carb and I think some more tuning and drivng will get it better. There is only so much you can do with a long duration cam. Here a few pictures.

[nsmall]

Thanks for the update and I hope you can finish this one up soon so you can enjoy it this spring and summer, we all know it's been a long journey brother.   

[7212Mopar]

Thanks Neal. I am looking forward to get on the road. I need to put miles to loosen up the drive line and be prepared for the road trip with Mike and others.

I opened up my old relay and one tab was sheared off and the whole thing was rotated. It touched the relay housing that is grounded to the car. So do not ever over tighten the bolt for the positive battery cable.

[7212Mopar]

Today is a beautiful day and I put another 30 miles on the car. 22 miles of city street and about 8 miles on the freeway. Yes I took her out on the freeway as I don't want to do it in April. I am still having nightmare about April. Car drove great but lots of rattling. My CRT 727 has the Transgo TF2 shift kit, 1st to 2nd at about 20-25 mph and definitely not a soft shift. Car will not upshift to 3rd below 40 mph. When car gets to 45 mph and if I ease off the gas a little, it will upshift to 3rd gear. It will stay in 3rd until I slow to under 30 mph. It seems to upshift to 3rd on its own if I get pass 45 to around 50 mph. I will play with the kickdown cable to see if I can have it shift sooner.


Car ran great on the freeway, about 3000 RPM at 70 mph (based on my Garmin GPS). I tried accelerating from 50 to about 80 mph and it happened so quickly that I was surprised when I looked at the GPS. I did this with only half pedal and loved every second of it. It felt so raw, loud and acceleration is so immediate. I had to tell myself to ease off and take it easy. Need to give it some time for the engine and driveline to break in. It definitely felt different from the new Challenger. I can't wait to try full throttle acceleration.


I need to look into fixing or minimize some of the rattling. Fuel gauge is way off, about 5 gallons of gas from full to half full. Brake light is still on. I will try to bleed the brakes more. My rebuilt power steering pump is making noise and it has a slow leak. I need to fix this as the pump powers my hydroboost brake system. I think I will check out the pump that Bergman Autocraft carries that is designed for the Borgeson box. It is kind of expensive though.

[7212Mopar]

Finished installing the MSD 6AL yesterday. I was hoping it will help to get a more complete burn of the fuel mixture to minimize the exhaust fume. That only helped a little in that regard but the engine idle and exhaust tone seems to be much more smooth than before. Engine also responds better when pressing the throttle. I will need to order the MSD mounting bracket and see if I can mounted it one the fire wall. The bracket I made myself mounting on top of the heater valve is vibrating too much.

After a 20 miles drive, I lighted up the tires at the stop sign off the freeway exit, only my car was at the intersection, no cops and I say time to give it a try. Car left behind at least 10 feet long of rubber. I think I was may be at half throttle, LSD working like it supposed to. Rear end was starting to get loose after the intersection so I let it off. This is the first time with this car since I got it. Very happy.  Next week I will change the engine oil with about 300 miles or so on the engine. The oil catch can is working and I drained off a few teaspoons of oil collected.

[nsmall]

I wish I could spin my tires that easy.  So excited for you.  Finally get to enjoy some fruit of your labor.   

[7212Mopar]

Thanks Neil. Take the plunge and call Brian to build you a 408. A stroker really wakes up the car and easy to get the car moving from a stop. May be ask him to use a slightly smaller cam than the one I have.

[Chryco Psycho]

Good to see you having fun with the Chall 

[7212Mopar]

I finished all the household chores late in the afternoon and found a moment to take the car out. After some local miles, I hopped on the freeway and headed toward the coast through the mountains. The car handles extremely well through the tight turns up and down the hills and I am exceptionally delighted. Steering could be faster but turn in and out is immediate and no hunting center. No body lean through the corners and the shock absorbs the road very well keeping the car planted. A newer Chevy mid size SUV behind me was trying to catch up but he had no chance. I have way more power going uphill and way better handling going down hill. The handling is definitely comparable to my SRT8 that has independent front and rear suspension (but it weights 4400 lbs). Not bad for a 40+ years old muscle.

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes: IMHO, they drive quite nice with minor tweaks and correct assembly.

[7212Mopar]

My car had been running great the whole summer. Even made a 200 miles round trip to attend a Mopar gathering at the track. I was out driving again yesterday enjoying the car before the raining season. On my way home going about 25 mph, the engine suddenly quit on me and then a loud backfire. Car would not start again. Fifteen minutes later while I was trying to figure out what is wrong, cop came by asking if I called the tow truck and saying if you don't call, he will call one for me. So after 3 hours of wait, car was back in the garage. Very please with Hagerty with the flat bed two truck. But I rather not have to use it.


This morning I started checking the fuses an all were good. Pop the hood and start checking the wiring and turns out to be burned off connector at the coil positive post. I could had fixed this on the side of the road but I did blocked about a 1/4 of the only lane on a two way street. This time I am using a ring connector instead of the male/female type from MSD and check it regularly. I think this slip on type connector is just bad news. There must be spark jumping between the connection. I am going to change out the negative post as well next week.

[YellowThumper]

Yes the actual contact points on those can be minuscule.
Glad overall issue is minor.
Mike.