72-74 front clip - lots of questions -Update

[blown motor]

Last year I bought a front clip I found on Kijiji just to have as a spare because the price was right on it. Today I started to clean it up.

There is a piece of rusted body metal still attached and the nut is seized on the stud. The stud twisted out when I tried to turn the nut, the threads on both the stud and it's seat are fine. How do I get the nut loose or is the stud and nut available as a repop? The seat for the stud on the other side is stripped out, is there any fix for that?

I removed the hood latch release lever and of course three screws came out fine and the fourth on twisted off. What's the best way to deal with this?

The headlight adjustor screws and the bolts that hold the grill in look like they'll be difficult to deal with. What's the best way to proceed on them?

The stud and nut that holds the top fastening brackets are also seized together. I need to deal with that. Should I strip and prime the latch release lever of just clean it up?

Thanks guys. I know you have the answers.   

[72 Challenger]

I'd give everything a good soak in penetrating oil. I'd rather snap the hardware instead of risking damaging the more valuable pieces.

For the most part I believe all of those fasteners are available in the aftermarket world.

[Burdar]

Personally, I would soak the latch release in EvapoRust.  The original plating looks like it's still decent.  Once it's out of the EvapoRust, rinse it off and spray it with a matte clear...or spray it with some WD-40. 

The double ended studs in the lower rear corners of the header panel are NOT reproduced as far as I know.  There was a guy on Moparts looking for some not long ago.  Don't break those.  One end of the stud is a special thread that goes into the fiberglass header panel.  The other end is just 1/4x20 thread I think.  That end goes through a hole in the fender.  The back side of the fender is just open to the wheel well.

If you break the double ended stud, I found something that might work at a local hardware store.(Theisen's)  It's a generic double ended stud with a lag screw type thread on one end and 1/4x20 on the other end.  That might work in a pinch.

[blown motor]

Thanks @Burdar . I thought you might chime in here. I'll work on a couple studs at a time. I got 6 of the 8 screws out in the headlight bezel rings and one of the grill mounting studs. the others won't budge, yet.

[Burdar]

The broken latch screw...

Does it stick out on the bottom side?  If it does, you can put a vise grip on it and try turning it out from the bottom.  If it doesn't stick out, you'll have to try and drill it.  It shouldn't be a very strong grade so hopefully it drills easy.  Use an "easy out" once you have enough of a hole drilled in it.

If you break off the grill attaching bolt it isn't a big deal.  The clip it goes into isn't anything special.  I'd try to get everything out without breaking anything though.  Do you have one of those mini hand held sand blasters?  Those would work great at cleaning up the back side of that bolt.

[Burdar]

That rusted piece of metal is what's left of the front fender.  You can unscrew the stud from the header panel...then work on removing the nut from the stud on a bench vise.

[anlauto]

Heat

[blown motor]

I was going to try a vice grip on the latch bolt tomorrow. Hopefully it works.
Alan

[Bullitt-]

I imagine this strategy would solve the stripped thread issue

[blown motor]

Interesting Wade. Thanks for posting.

[blown motor]

A small amount of success this morning. With a vise grips I was able to get the broken latch screw out from the back side and with a little patience and perseverance I was able to get the two lower screws out of the grill. The three top ones were no problem.
The two double ended studs that hold the top brackets continue to be stubborn. Alan, how much heat can you put to those? Since the stud is free in it's anchor I doubt I'll be able to get the nut free from the stud. Might have to cut it apart if I can find a suitable replacement.

[blown motor]

Some more success. I did finally get the nuts free from the studs and got the threads all cleaned up. Next up is the headlight bezels. I can only get 6 of the 8 screws out. What is the absolute best penetrating oil? I really don't want to poke the torch in there to heat things up.

[bluespruce]

I like PB blaster or kroil

[jimynick]

Murray, throw the damn thing in your truck and bring it over. We'll get the bolts out and re-setting the studs is easy and quick, been there and done that. GM made a "heat riser and valve lubricant penetrant that used to be the best. I've got a couple of cans in the cupboard. You can see my new wheels and tires while we work. 

[blown motor]

Hell of an idea! I'll text you.