Painting my steering column

[CudaJon]

Hello Everyone - hope all are doing well

Have some down time and taking out my Instrument Cluster, the column got some scratches. I'm really a novice at painting but was wondering if I need to take like steel wool to rough it up a bit before I paint it. BTW it's a 73 Cuda and I"m just doing the top of the column with sem black trim.   Thanks!!

[JS29]

You want to ruff it up a little, A scuff pad will do the job as well. 

[Cuda Cody]

You can use a few things to scuff before paint and they will all work.  I prefer using either a grey or red 3M Scotch Brite pad.  The grey is about the same 600 grit and the red is about 300 grit.

[CudaJon]

I have some 400 and 800 grid sandpaper laying around the shop - comments?

[Rich G.]

Wipe it down with a wax and grease remover before you start sanding so you don't wind up with a lot of fish eyes in the paint.

[CudaJon]

I purchased that sem solver which I guess you use it before you paint anything metal

[Cuda Cody]

Paint adheres one of two way.

1 = Chemical bond.  This is when you use primer on bare metal and the paint adheres to the primer while the primer is still "open".  The term "open" means the primer, while dry to the touch, is still chemically open to bond with the paint.  Normally the primer open time will be somewhere between a day or two all the way up to a week or so.  After that you need to scuff the primer.

2 = Mechanical bond.  This is done by scuffing the primer or old paint to add a lot of micro scratches that form highs and lows in the part and the paint will lock in to the scratch creating mechanical bond. 


The chemical bond is the strongest, but mechanical bonds work good too.  If you put to big of scratches in the primer or old paint they will show through the final paint.  If the scratches are to small they will not create the mechanical bond need to hold the paint on.  I like somewhere between 300 and 600 depending on the paint I'm using.  If I only had to pick between 400 and 800, I would use the 400 and not push super hard.  Also, like Rich said, clean is the key.  Key the area before, after and right before you paint.  I think the SEM solver is a detergent for cleaning (much like soap I think).  The wax and grease remover is best and would work with SEM (use the wax and grease remover last, right before you paint.).  Make sure it's clean, clean, clean and give it time to flash off (dry).

As for SEM Trim Black.  That is one of the best single part paints in a rattle can.  If you use a two part paint in a professional paint gun it would be better, but the Trim Back that SEM makes is really good for what it is. 

[CudaJon]

Thank you sir for your detailed explanation - always learning!

[WhiskeyRebel]

Good luck with refinishing your column.  Post up some before/after pics.

I am doing the exact same thing right now.  Just pulled my column.  I was going to use Spraymax hot rod black.  It is a 2k paint in a can that comes with an activator:
https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/products/product/top-coats/2k-hot-rod-black/
Anyone ever use this before?  Or should I stick with the SEM trim black.

[Cuda Cody]

2K paints (rattle can or from a paint gun) will always be better than even the best single stage rattle can paints.  Any time you can use a 2K (2 part paint that has a catalyst to harden it) it's going to be a longer lasting paint job.  SprayMax makes good paint in a rattle can.

[70 Challenger Lover]

Paint adheres one of two way.

1 = Chemical bond.  This is when you use primer on bare metal and the paint adheres to the primer while the primer is still "open".  The term "open" means the primer, while dry to the touch, is still chemically open to bond with the paint.  Normally the primer open time will be somewhere between a day or two all the way up to a week or so.  After that you need to scuff the primer.

2 = Mechanical bond.  This is done by scuffing the primer or old paint to add a lot of micro scratches that form highs and lows in the part and the paint will lock in to the scratch creating mechanical bond. 


The chemical bond is the strongest, but mechanical bonds work good too.  If you put to big of scratches in the primer or old paint they will show through the final paint.  If the scratches are to small they will not create the mechanical bond need to hold the paint on.  I like somewhere between 300 and 600 depending on the paint I'm using.  If I only had to pick between 400 and 800, I would use the 400 and not push super hard.  Also, like Rich said, clean is the key.  Key the area before, after and right before you paint.  I think the SEM solver is a detergent for cleaning (much like soap I think).  The wax and grease remover is best and would work with SEM (use the wax and grease remover last, right before you paint.).  Make sure it's clean, clean, clean and give it time to flash off (dry).

As for SEM Trim Black.  That is one of the best single part paints in a rattle can.  If you use a two part paint in a professional paint gun it would be better, but the Trim Back that SEM makes is really good for what it is.

I also appreciate the detailed explanation. If I paint epoxy over bare metal, is that also mechanical? I assume it is. Why is epoxy so much better over bare steel on exterior surfaces? Is it just tougher or creates a better seal?

[Topcat]

i matched the pantone at my painter's and they made the color and then I painted with a Sata Mini Jet.

[JS29]

I an  with my mini-jet!!! Any bare metal MUST be coated with etch or epoxy primer, SEM black etch is my go to for rattle can primer.

[Mrbill426]

Nice info  thanks
Is that SEM trim black the thing to use for all the black metal surfaces on the dash?

Paint adheres one of two way.

1 = Chemical bond.  This is when you use primer on bare metal and the paint adheres to the primer while the primer is still "open".  The term "open" means the primer, while dry to the touch, is still chemically open to bond with the paint.  Normally the primer open time will be somewhere between a day or two all the way up to a week or so.  After that you need to scuff the primer.

2 = Mechanical bond.  This is done by scuffing the primer or old paint to add a lot of micro scratches that form highs and lows in the part and the paint will lock in to the scratch creating mechanical bond. 


The chemical bond is the strongest, but mechanical bonds work good too.  If you put to big of scratches in the primer or old paint they will show through the final paint.  If the scratches are to small they will not create the mechanical bond need to hold the paint on.  I like somewhere between 300 and 600 depending on the paint I'm using.  If I only had to pick between 400 and 800, I would use the 400 and not push super hard.  Also, like Rich said, clean is the key.  Key the area before, after and right before you paint.  I think the SEM solver is a detergent for cleaning (much like soap I think).  The wax and grease remover is best and would work with SEM (use the wax and grease remover last, right before you paint.).  Make sure it's clean, clean, clean and give it time to flash off (dry).

As for SEM Trim Black.  That is one of the best single part paints in a rattle can.  If you use a two part paint in a professional paint gun it would be better, but the Trim Back that SEM makes is really good for what it is.

[Cuda Cody]

When I paint a steering column and dash I use the same factory suede finish.

Nice info  thanks
Is that SEM trim black the thing to use for all the black metal surfaces on the dash?