roof front / windshield channel

[GoMangoBoys]

We discovered more bondo in the car today.  The front of the roof has lots of rust damage and is dented in quite a bit.  The windshield channel was coated in bondo.  Removing it revealed that there was some really bad patching that was attempted.  We intend to remove the bad patchwork and redo it.  There is also quite a bit of rot in the outer A pillar pieces.  We plan to buy the replacement panels for those. What I would love is to find a good roof section that is only the front 4-6 inches.  I don't want to buy a whole roof skin since 1.  I already worked on it where it meets the quarter panels on each side in the rear adn 2.  The roof is pretty expensive.
In the end, I think I will need to fabricate a patch panel for the front roof section and the windshield channel.  Any advice would be welcome.

[jimynick]

I think you're on the right path looking for a used section, because that current piece is going to be a cast iron SOB to replace! Welding in a 6" front patch across the whole roof will show you warping like you've likely never seen before, so if you find a used one, see if the guy will cut it off in the 1/4's, regardless of the fact that you've already done some work there. But then, that's just my    Good luck. 

[70 Challenger Lover]

I recently replaced an entire roof skin and it was easy. First, I spent weeks making repairs like you are doing. Then, I caused a little bit of warping from heat and spent more weeks trying to shrink it back so it wouldn't oil can. In the end I gave up and put on a new skin. It was fast and easy compared to everything up to that point trying to save the original. My advice would be to learn from my folly.

An added advantage of replacing the skin was it opened up the top side of the bracing which I then was able to clean and seal up.

[GoMangoBoys]

To be honest, I have 2 problems with replacing the entire roof.  The lesser of the 2 is the price. The primary problem that I have is the fact that I already repaired the rear areas where the rood meets the quarter panel.  I really don't want to undo all of that.

I used duraglass to fill the seam between the quarter panel and the roof.  That will be a real SOB to grind out and start over.  Maybe, in the end, this would still be the better choice, but it seems like a tough row to hoe at this point.

My failing is in not looking at the front of the roof before repairing the rear.  I realized some time ago that I should have totally disassembled the car and had the body dipped before doing any work.

[70 Challenger Lover]

The work you've done looks nice. I can't argue with the logic. Hard to go backwards. However you make the front repairs, be extra careful with heat. That was my undoing. I had a solid roof to start but after all my repairs, I had oil canning I just couldn't get rid of. I got lucky on the expense part of it. There was a company twenty miles from me that ordered the wrong roof skin and rather than return it and pay shipping, they sold it for a loss. I think I got it for $400 flat, no tax or shipping. It was still a big chunk of dough but I didn't see any way around it at the time.

To address your issue, I've never seen roof patches. I have seen guys sell entire roofs hacked off at the A pillar but they always seem to want huge amounts of money for some reason.

[jimynick]

You like to take the road less travelled, don't you? It looks like you know how a MIG works, so if you're bound and determined to splice it AND you find a doner, may I suggest you buy a length of flexible 1/2" copper pipe and I'd bend it so that it fit th present skin'd configuration and then I'd panel bond it under the roof skin and cut just before it. That way you'd have the now floppy skin supported, in the shape it's supposed to be and you'd have a support to reduce warping when you attempt this feat of legerdemain! You'd probably be able to lap it as opposed to butting it and you could panel bond it that way with a few mig spots at the edges and flanges for insurance. They bond the roofs of F150's today, FYI. Have fun. 

[JS29]

More than just F-150 roof's are bonded on these days. 

[GoMangoBoys]

Thank you all for your input.  I have decided to just do it right, even though it means going backward a bit.  I just ordered a roof skin and 2 A pillars from Summit.  The roof has to ship freight, so it will ship to the main store where I will pick it up in a few weeks.  Not happy about the delay, but we have lots of other things to do.
Thanks again to you all.

[RUNCHARGER]

I hate setbacks but the end result will be worth it.

[tparker]

I did my roof about 2 years or so ago. The biggest pain was the spot welds. Those were a pain to drill out. My roof was about $600 years about 10 years ago. Not terrible price. I would probably opt to replace the entire roof rather than fab up pieces. I considered making a roof and getting an english wheel etc. But then I came to my senses. The curves seem to be a pain to get right and trying to deal with any warpage would probably drive me crazy.

My pillars had a couple bad areas and the lower window channels were toast. I was able to fabricate them without too much trouble, and it looks decent. The window will cover it.

I have a vinyl top, so my roof didn't have to be 100% perfect. Thats good for me and my skill level of work. LOL.

Good luck. Keep the pics coming.

[gzig5]

I have an aftermarket sunroof to deal with and it looks like someone danced a jig on parts of the roof.  I am going to take a run at the repair, if nothing else to gain the experience.  There is a good video on utube of a guy in Europe taking care or the oil can issue on the roof.  I'll see if I can find the link on my other computer. 

[jimynick]

Oil canning is a result of too much metal in too small an area and the cure is shrinking. This usually involves heat (torch) and cooling (air blower,squirt bottle). You'll get people telling you not to use water, as it'll change the metals ductility, but you're usually doing only a few shrink spots and you can trust me when I say the roof won't blow off/collapse, etc. if you do. You can cold shrink, but it requires some specialized tools and knowledge. Try it on your soon to be old roof skin! 
PS- seriously consider bonding the new skin on. It's much quicker and makes a continuous bond all the way around, versus spot welds in - spots.

[gzig5]

I think I'm more worried about the dents than the big hole, but I guess I'll find out when I get there.  Only about 30% of the carnage is visible here.

[BFM_Cuda]

I think I'm more worried about the dents than the big hole, but I guess I'll find out when I get there.  Only about 30% of the carnage is visible here.

I wanted one of those sunroofs so bad in high school...I miss the 80's.....

[gzig5]

I think I'm more worried about the dents than the big hole, but I guess I'll find out when I get there.  Only about 30% of the carnage is visible here.

I wanted one of those sunroofs so bad in high school...I miss the 80's.....

$500 and it's yours.   

Actually, If I can make it not leak, I might keep it for a while.