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Sheetmetal gurus help me get started

Started by Jocigar, February 14, 2022, 08:17:22 AM

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jimynick

All good advice, to which I'd say that the lft door/hood gap may respond to a block of wood on the upper door edge and a 4lb hammer to the wood. Take it easy, but I'll bet you gain some. As for the right side, the pic seems to show the fender edge as being slightly bulged and pushed back. This usually happens when you pry too hard against it. Something to remember on these cars, they never fit worth a damn originally and those perfect 3/16ths cars? 100's of hours prying, welding, grinding to achieve. My car, from the factory, had a gap that I could slide my fingers under at the drivers door/rocker intersection and a measured 3/4" vertical misalignment at the trunk floor/rt trk flr extension. Unless you're going to show the car, get it a good as possible and ask the idiot who may point out the non-perfection where his, perfect car is and then compare the cost of his ride to yours and then get a warm fuzzy feeling knowing that nobody will ever see anything when you're at 30, let alone 60 mph. :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

Jocigar


Checking back, I've got few days in alignment time.   I have the alignment and gaps best they can be without cutting and welding them as needed after panels are permanently attached.     So before I go any deeper into fixing gaps I still need to take quarters off one more time, to weld in trunk pan, extensions and wheel wells. 

The door, fender and trunk lid gaps still need fine adjustment via hammer, cutting and welding, but at this point I think I am as good as I can tweak them with just panel alignment.   Would you agree that i can take ass end apart and start welding my way out?   

Also need to coat trunk in epoxy primer before quarters go back on.    When I epoxy do I need to worry about flash time? I will not be painting the truck area for weeks after primer. 

I epoxy the inside of quarters before remounting them, but paint them on inside after mounting.. yes?

If I use DP74 (red) epoxy that would be better for FK5 finish?   How does that work on outside ?  epoxy, filler, primer filler, epoxy, base coat?    If I don't end up in epoxy before base there is no use in getting red to match base, correct?

What else do I need to do before remounting quarters?  Maybe seam sealer ?  have no idea where, this would be after primer or before?    Once quarters are on there is no going back so nerve wrecking first time around.     

Thanks for all the help!