Main Menu

Trunk seal placement

Started by Mrbill426, May 07, 2020, 07:32:29 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

Mrbill426

I am about to install the rubber trunk seal and I have a question about proper placement.  The rear edge is pretty self explanatory but for the side and front edges does the seal continue hugging the inner lip (Red arrows in photos) or does it hug the inner edge of the channel as it wraps around the sides and across the front (blue arrows)?  And am I correct in saying that where the ends butt up the "seam" is not dead center in the rear but a couple inches to the side?
Thanks!

:wrenching:


anlauto

In my opinion...it hugs the red arrow and the seam is usually close to center by the latch  :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

RUNCHARGER

That is what I have seen on original cars as well.
Sheldon


70 Challenger Lover

Here's an untouched gasket if it helps.

Mrbill426

Thanks guys for the comments and photos; it helps me a lot  :twothumbsup:

:wrenching:

70 Challenger Lover

There was a trick an upholstery guy showed me that I really liked. Rather than use clips, wait for it to dry hoping nothing slides out of place, he uses the 3M tube glue like a contact cement. I've done it many times since and love it.

The gap is at the bottom somewhere but you start at the top doing only 12" at a time. Put a film of glue on the paint and also the rubber but separately. Lightly touch them together but then lift the rubber away a couple inches. This creates stringers and the glue starts drying faster. After a couple seconds, press it back down into position. If you did it right, it will firmly adhere and instantly tack in place. Once you've done a couple 12" sections, you quickly get a feel for how much glue, how far to lift them apart, how long to wait before sticking back together. When done right, you get one shot at sticking it back down, just like a decal or using contact cement. If it still slides, repeat the process and use less glue on the next section. You can do a trunk seal in ten minutes and no waiting afterward. Though I still like to give it a couple hours before shutting the trunk lid.

anlauto

 :iagree: this is exactly how I do it with 3M weather-strip adhesive...follow the instructions on the tube and I never used any type of clips  :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Wayne

I used clothes pins to hold mine in place while glueing....if I did it again I would use painters tape.
1970 Cuda 383 4spd red on red
Backyard Hotrods @ Youtube, Facebook & Instagram
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2bd5dyuOKCJT-kWhdEGm3A

70 Challenger Lover

Is that method in the instructions? I've never actually read them. And here I was thinking the guy showed me a cool insider trick of the trade!

anlauto

Quote from: 70 Challenger Lover on May 08, 2020, 06:44:10 AM
Is that method in the instructions? I've never actually read them. And here I was thinking the guy showed me a cool insider trick of the trade!

:haha: :haha: :haha: You made me just go read the instructions on the tube....

It says to apply to both the car and the weather-strip...allow to tack up and press firmly together once tacky...I guess I learned that trick of putting it together then slightly pulling it apart to speed up the process :haha: :haha: :haha:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

anlauto

Found this picture of a 1970 Cuda with the original weather-strip still in place. The original seam or splice is just a wee bit off center. :twothumbsup:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Floyd

From engineering drawing

ec_co

that page has more details on it (a few detailed pics, shows where it lies and the joint), I just got my copy the other day and showed my wife this page as a good example of why this book was worth buying. the important part I'm reading into this, is that at assembly they say install under compression which leads me to think they just closed the trunk lid to compress it and keep it in place for a watertight joint (easiest method I can't think of anything else other than sticking a plate on top as it continues down the line. don't see them using clips or other cumbersome methods. time is $$) https://forum.e-bodies.org/cuda-and-challenger-general-discussion-roseville-moparts/2/70-71-assembly-manual/15800/   page 99
Growing older is mandatory...growing up is optional.

Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.

'70 Barracuda B5/B5 225 /6 3spd ... about as bare bones as they came

Mrbill426

So it's basically applied like contact cement?




Quote from: anlauto on May 08, 2020, 06:39:50 AM
:iagree: this is exactly how I do it with 3M weather-strip adhesive...follow the instructions on the tube and I never used any type of clips  :alan2cents:

anlauto

Yup....I like the 3M stuff better then the current Contact Cement available.
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration