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Welding question

Started by Cbridgewater, May 17, 2020, 12:31:13 PM

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Cbridgewater

So, I am choosing to completely weld the seams where the Rear Deck filler meets the quarter panel. My question is, do I need to fill the low spots with another weld, or filler? What would you all suggest?

JS29


Mopar5

When you say rear deck panel you mean the panel that extends to both quarters that the rear glass sits if that is the case I wouldn't keep filling that with weld the more heat you put on it the worse distortion is going to be. I would fill the rest with short strand fiberglass.


Mopar5

Just another thought if you keep grinding into the adjacent metal you make it super thin and worhtless

IRON MAN

Do not use fiberglass. Eventually it will delaminate and rust will appear.

jimynick

Short strand fibreglass is stable as hell and I've never seen it come off/deteriorate in the 30+ years I've been using it. Regular cloth or mat fibreglass? Well, that's a different story. The first stuff we saw in the 70's and 80"s was called Tiger Hair. It was and is waterproof and much stiffer than regular old bondo. And, it's in those grooves on my car, so I guess we're both taking our chances, eh?  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

Mr Lee

Can't he just continue to weld it closed as long as he welds it slowly / a little bit at a time, to keep it cool?  Then file it flat? 


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MoparLeo

Welded properly, there would not be the low spot(s) like in your picture. The panels should have been butted together and the weld would have filled and built up above the seam. There would be no low spot after grinding.
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

hanksemenec

I'll be doing the same job soon. How big was the gap when you started?

Mopar5

Its just not necessary to completely fill that seam with weld

Cbridgewater

With the rolled edges at the quarter and deck filler, there is quite the gap to fill with a quick weld (to avoid too much heat) to fill. I can definitely make additional passes to build it up, but don't want to risk any distortion.


Cbridgewater

Once the panels were clamped and welded together (before filling the seam with weld) I held a straight edge across the top and would say that the gap was about 1/4", reducing down to nothing. If you looked at a profile of the gap it would be like the drawing below.

hanksemenec

If I'm doing the same the same fill job, I'm thinking of silicon bronze filler on top of weld. How compatible is the silicon bronze with paint and body material?

IRON MAN

Quote from: jimynick on May 17, 2020, 07:17:44 PM
Short strand fibreglass is stable as hell and I've never seen it come off/deteriorate in the 30+ years I've been using it. Regular cloth or mat fibreglass? Well, that's a different story. The first stuff we saw in the 70's and 80"s was called Tiger Hair. It was and is waterproof and much stiffer than regular old bondo. And, it's in those grooves on my car, so I guess we're both taking our chances, eh?  :cheers:
Fiberglass resin does not expand and contract at the same rate as sheet metal and will eventually delaminate. At this stage of the OP's repair I recommend using a two part epoxy preferably JB Weld. JB Weld works great as a body filler and has the tendency to self level making it easier to finish the work. JB Weld expands and contracts at a similar rate as the sheet metal. I have used it with great success. :yes:

JS29

I would be more concerned about body flexing! that is why i suggested seam sealer.  :alan2cents: