Welding question

[gzig5]

JB Weld expands and contracts at a similar rate as the sheet metal. I have used it with great success.

Were you the one working on my 73 back in the day?  It ended up with what looked a lot like JB 1/4-1/2" thick for two feet all over where the passenger rocker got bashed in.  That repair was there for a long time and it was hard to find.  The metal repair work was horrible but the mud work was really good.

I wouldn't hesitate to fill that shallow seam with good quality reinforced filler.  There isn't much flex in that area and with the two panels fully stitched, they aren't going to be able to move relative to each other.  Either way, its likely to get a light coat of filler even if you were to weld it all and grind it down.  You will never work that area flat with the flange seam under it.

[cuda hunter]

I'm curious about the brass brazing.  Would that work well? 
Would the paint adhere to the brass the same as the metal around it?

[JS29]

I'm curious about the brass brazing.  Would that work well? 
Would the paint adhere to the brass the same as the metal around it?

Yes, the brass must have all the flux removed and be clean. heat warp-age could happen if not careful. Etch primer, serfacer primer, fillers will adhere to the brazed area. They make a set up to MIG weld instead of using a torch now.     

[IRON MAN]

JB Weld expands and contracts at a similar rate as the sheet metal. I have used it with great success.

Were you the one working on my 73 back in the day?  No, not me. I live in the SF Bay Area.

[Mopar5]

JB Weld expands and contracts at a similar rate as the sheet metal. I have used it with great success.

Were you the one working on my 73 back in the day?  It ended up with what looked a lot like JB 1/4-1/2" thick for two feet all over where the passenger rocker got bashed in.  That repair was there for a long time and it was hard to find.  The metal repair work was horrible but the mud work was really good.

I wouldn't hesitate to fill that shallow seam with good quality reinforced filler.  There isn't much flex in that area and with the two panels fully stitched, they aren't going to be able to move relative to each other.  Either way, its likely to get a light coat of filler even if you were to weld it all and grind it down.  You will never work that area flat with the flange seam under it.

I agree both edges of that seam were they meet at the top have a gentle roll that is slightly raised it will be a tough area to blend in without skim coating the deck into the quarters and down the trunk.

[larry4406]

Convertibles don't have that seam present.  What did the factory do for them?

[Tunis]

@larry4406 lead or plastic filler I guess. You can always lead it if you want it to be all metal and don't want to put the heat into the panels that you get from welding.

[gzig5]

Convertibles don't have that seam present.  What did the factory do for them?

Lead I would think.  Like the roof seam and rockers to the quarter.  That is another option.  Brazing is going to put a ton of heat in the panel unless you are very experienced. The least chance of warpage would be to MIG it or lead.  Either way, there is going to be filler, no way around it.  It's not a terrible thing if done well with quality products.

[soundcontrol]

Convertibles don't have that seam present.  What did the factory do for them?

Whatever they used for that, didn't last, all my convertibles (had 3) cracked there.

[JS29]

Again, BODY FLEX.

[Cbridgewater]

Ok, it looks like I am leaning toward the seam sealer option. Now for my next question, is it sandable?

[Tunis]

You might want to add something to the paint to make it more flexible if you have a softer material underneath, as you would for rubber bumpers  Otherwise the paint might crack where the body flexes. But I'm not an expert on this. Just some thoughts.

[JS29]

Modern clear will flex to a point. Axalta FKA Du-pont dose not recommend using flex agent. 3M urethane will stay pliable with grease and wax remover applied over it. use a cloth or your finger to trowel it. most body shops do it that way. So to answer your question no you can't sand it.  Even after seam sealer is set up, app lie a little grease &wax remover to it and it will soften back up. I would prime the bare metal then seam sealer applied.