Windshield trim issue

[Challenger in NC]

My car is scheduled to head for finish body and paint around January. Prior to this, I need to do some prep. work including installing front and rear glass trim clips. I ordered a windshield from AMD and placed it in the body to see how the trim would fit up. The windshield is sitting on small sections of 5/16" butyl tape and a couple of spacing blocks. I have not yet installed the trim clips, the trim is only taped to the body and top of the windshield.

The first thing I notice is the top passenger side corner has a large gap that needs to be addresses. The trim is hitting the roof in the corner,  do I need to have the body shop notch the roof curve to allow the trim to slide over further? It would appear that this would close that gap up.

Secondly, the trim looks almost flush at the top of the windshield but at the base of the pillars, it sits a little lower. Has anyone needed to shim their windshield to get the trim to be more consistent?

Lastly, what is the best method to locate the clips height-wise so that the moulding sits tight against the windshield without noticeable gaps? Once those holes get drilled into the roof, there's no adjustment if the trim is loose or too tight. I'm assuming the bottom of the clip does not simply sit on top of the window channel (pinch weld)?

Chris

[anlauto]

On the passenger side of the car, can you not slide the trim "around the corner more" to close the gap at least some ? Otherwise you are correct the body shop should fit the trim to the corners better with either filler or better metal work.

[Challenger in NC]

On the passenger side of the car, can you not slide the trim "around the corner more" to close the gap at least some ? Otherwise you are correct the body shop should fit the trim to the corners better with either filler or better metal work.

I've tried adjusting it and pulling it tighter into the corner but the trim is pretty stiff and there seems to be very little adjustment, unfortunately. There will be some filler put at the pillar/roof seam but not enough to correct this gap. The driver side gap looks like it could be filled enough to get it close, but other side is way off.

[anlauto]

I agree, the PS side looks pretty nasty...

[Cuda Cody]

Well, what is original on the car?  Has the roof or "A" pillars bee replaced?  The bottom line is that does not fit and needs to be fixed.  So you can find some other trim to see if they fit better or you need to make them fit.  That means adding metal and or bending the trim.  Most likely a combination of both will need to be done.  This is one of the reasons I keep a lot of trim on hand and end up polishing originals that fit the car. 

[Challenger in NC]

As far as I know the trim is original. The pillars, roof and cowl were replaced at the AMD fab shop. They probably checked the opening but not the trim fit up. The trim has the gap near the top as seen in the photo but the gap decreases as you get towards the bottom of the glass which makes me wonder if the angle of the pillar is slightly off. I will need to discuss this with the shop and see what the options are, I'm sure some cutting and re-welding will be in order, which sucks. I'd be open to re-contouring the trim a little but afraid there is too much gap too close up without modifying some body metal.

[Cuda Cody]

Check the door window channel trim too (drip moldings).

[Challenger in NC]

Check the door window channel trim too (drip moldings).

Will do. Thanks.

[edison1970]

I would check the rear window trim also since the roof was replaced.

[RUNCHARGER]

Wow: That's pretty bad. It needs metal welded in to make it right but I think will make the post too thick. So I would say a bit of work to move the post over and reshape the incorrectly shaped roof skin. That's what it looks like from the computer screen anyway.

[1 Wild R/T]

I wouldn't use plastic filler I've seen how that turns out, looks good when done, a few years later not to good....... Welding in metal?  Maybe.. But the best option IMO is lead...  You can easily build the window channel out, shape it & it'll be good as new...

Oh, while your test fitting check the tail panel trim, the headlight bezels... And any other trim... Better to find it now & fix than to find it later...

[Challenger in NC]

I wouldn't use plastic filler I've seen how that turns out.... Welding in metal?  Maybe.. But the best option IMO is lead...  You can easily build the window channel out, shape it & it'll be good as new...

Yeah, the shop is going to have to use solder or lead in that area anyway so they may have to add more than normal to help fix the gap. 

[RUNCHARGER]

Looking at that right one again I think it will take a lot of thought before doing anything. The guy that does the repair will have to have a good plan before bringing out the whizwheel. It looks like a combo of moving the post to the left and maybe cutting into and reshaping the roof but there is no way to tell from photos over the internet. It's pretty severe anyway, are you a long ways away from the guys that stitched it together?
I also don't think the drip rail moldings will fit right now either.

[Challenger in NC]

Looking at that right one again I think it will take a lot of thought before doing anything. The guy that does the repair will have to have a good plan before bringing out the whizwheel. It looks like a combo of moving the post to the left and maybe cutting into and reshaping the roof but there is no way to tell from photos over the internet. It's pretty severe anyway, are you a long ways away from the guys that stitched it together?
I also don't think the drip rail moldings will fit right now either.

AMD in Ga did all the work. Ill probably send over the photos to the local guy who's doing the paint and see what he thinks. Ughhh!

[Challenger in NC]

This may be problem 2. Anyone see an issue?