Any tips/suggestions on installing a dash wiring harness?

[DodgeGuy]

This weekend I'm going to be installing my new dash harness from M&H wiring....the "plug and play" type.

So....if anybody has done this before and has any tips or suggestions I would appreciate it.   I prefer the old saying of "work smart not hard".


Is this just a matter of pulling out the entire instrument panel? 

I guess I'm asking what I should disassemble in order to make this to go as smoothly as possible.

I'm also installing the Sunpro voltmeter in place of the factory ammeter.  I'm assuming once I do that, I can attach the two wires I connected onto one post back onto separate posts on this new voltmeter?  (I ran a 10 gauge bypass wire directly from the alternator to the starter relay, and then wired the two ammeter wires together on one stud as suggested by numerous people here and elsewhere)

Once again, thanks for the information and suggestions!

[1 Wild R/T]

Easy way is to pull the whole dash as an assembly....  If you've ever considered replacing the pad now is the time.....   The two wires from the Ammeter connect to each other & insulate them very well.... I wouldn't connect them to the voltmeter or it will become a constant draw..... You want to feed it switched power...  The easy way is a jumper from the extra lug on the IVR, Oh, you have to ground the other side of the voltmeter...

[DodgeGuy]

Easy way is to pull the whole dash as an assembly....  If you've ever considered replacing the pad now is the time.....   The two wires from the Ammeter connect to each other & insulate them very well.... I wouldn't connect them to the voltmeter or it will become a constant draw..... You want to feed it switched power...  The easy way is a jumper from the extra lug on the IVR, Oh, you have to ground the other side of the voltmeter...

1Wild, I was watching a video on youtube last night that showed how to do this in anticipation of needing to do it in order to install this dash harness.  Basically the procedure went like this (more or less):

1. There are 4 bolts in the defrost vents to take out.
2. There are "pivot bolts" on both ends of the dashboard down towards the bottom that need loosened, which would allow the dash to "pivot forward".
3. The steering column needs to be removed by taking out the roll pin in the coupler at the steering box, and then there are two nuts on studs that hold the column up that need to be taken off so the column can drop straight down and then out.  I believe there are also 2-3 bolts that bolt a flange on the column into the firewall that need to come out.

After that the dash should just kind of roll forward allowing me to gain access the instrument cluster, fuse panel, bulkhead connectors, all of which I'm going to replace....

Does that sound correct?

[1 Wild R/T]

You can lower the column & lay it on the seat without removing it.... Towel on the seat, remove steering wheel, unbolt three bolts at firewall & the two that the studs need to be removed.... I have the bulkhead connector & the kick panel connectors disconnected before I drop the dash...  The four in the defroster dust are easy if you have a 1/4" drive 3/8" swivel socket...  Plugs at the heater box, heater & A/C controls...

[DodgeGuy]

You can lower the column & lay it on the seat without removing it.... Towel on the seat, remove steering wheel, unbolt three bolts at firewall & the two that the studs need to be removed.... I have the bulkhead connector & the kick panel connectors disconnected before I drop the dash...  The four in the defroster dust are easy if you have a 1/4" drive 3/8" swivel socket...  Plugs at the heater box, heater & A/C controls...

That makes sense on the steering column, thanks for the suggestion!  A few other questions if I may.

1. What exactly are the "kick panel connectors"?  I know what the kick panels are....but are the "connectors" referring to some wiring components?


2. On the ammeter to voltmeter swap...just to clarify.   I understand the part about not hooking up the new wires from the new dash harness to the voltmeter at all.  You're saying to simply connect/wire them together and then insulate them very well.

However, can you clarify this statement: "You want to feed it switched power...  The easy way is a jumper from the extra lug on the IVR, Oh, you have to ground the other side of the voltmeter." 

Is this "IVR" the Instrument Voltage Regulator in the dash that you are referring to?  What gauge wire would be best for the jumper?  Any suggestions on where to ground the other side of the voltmeter?

[1 Wild R/T]

What you really need is the @anlauto   dash removal tutorial.....  Something like 42 comprehensive steps to dash extraction....

[DodgeGuy]

What you really need is the @anlauto   dash removal tutorial.....  Something like 42 comprehensive steps to dash extraction....

42 steps you say?   

I'm hoping at least half of them involve beverages and pizza!!

[Adams1stCuda]

I am going to be doing the same thing relatively soon and I decided to pull the whole dash.  Really wasn't that hard...all together took me about 45-min to an hour.  Below are the steps referred to in a previous post that I used.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/dash-removal-in-the-words-of-alan/1472/

Here are a few additional tidbits I also kept from other posts...

***I installed my dash pad first onto the frame. 
Then I did my glove box insert and door.
Next I installed the ashtray support and receiver. 
Then I installed my gauge cluster and switch panel.
Next was the heater control panel and radio bezel.
Finishing up with the wiring harness before installing into the car.

***Looking back, I would have also installed the lower LH and lower RH dash corner trim pieces before installing the assembled dash into the car.

***You can assemble everything from the ashtray over last if you want.

1. Main gauges
2. Radio bezel and heater controls (attach both cables to the heater controls before installing)
3. Main gauge plastic bezel
4. Switch panel assembly. (Make sure you have a good ground to the frame)
5. Light bar. (I always put power to the light bar after installed to make sure the frame ground is good)
6. The x2 plastic elbows.
7. Radio
8. Main wiring harness
9. EVERYTHING I FORGOT

Place a couple pieces thick of masking tape over the edge of the main gauge bezel woodgrain so when you install the switch panel assembly, it won't get scratched.  You have to have the switch panel on the exact correct angle and turn it as installed.  Can't tell you exactly what that is, I play with it until it falls in.   I can stress enough how important all the grounds are to the dash frame and the frame to the body.

***I personally find it easier to hook the two cables to the heater box first

***I put the glove box in last, that makes it easier to hook the heater cables to the box.

***looks right except I do not remove the 2 bolts at he door pillars , the lower dash mounts are slotted so the dash can sit on these bolts once  the 4 bolts in the defroster are removed the dash will lift right off of the lower dash bolts , this also helps with  installing the ash s it can be set onto the same lower bolts & lifted up to align the 4 defroster bolts

***For that to work when you preform step 19 you should have double nutted the studs & removed the studs too rather than just the nuts..... And yes, thats how I do it too

***1/4 " drive with a flex extension works best , keep a magnet near too
installing the screws is another story , I fought with that for hours on one car , , my customers girlfriend showed up & was able to start the screws by hand !!

Finally the link below is more descriptive for disassembling the dash piece by piece.

http://www.justdashes.com/2011/08/instructions-1970-74-mopar-e-body-dash-pad-removal-and-replacement/

Hope this helps...

[DodgeGuy]

Wow adams, thanks for a very informative post and link to more great information.

After reading through all of that, it seems like if I'm just replacing the dash wiring harness with a plug and play harness, I wouldn't need to do ALL of that correct?

Those directions are suited for someone who is completely removing the dash from the car (in order to rebuild it).

What I basically need to do is "peel it back" so I can access the back of the instrument cluster in order to do the rewire.  I planned on just loosening the door pillar bolts and letting the dash swivel on those.

Unless I'm missing something (which I could very easily be doing), I'm going to just pivot the dash as one complete unit to gain access to the back of it, but I'm not going to need to disassemble anything....Is that correct?

[Chryco Psycho]

Be warned getting the 4 bolts back in by the defrost ducts is nearly impossible with the windsheild in place , I spent about 3 hrs trying to get the bolts started , the owners girlfriend came home & she was able to slide her hands right down there & Start the bolts easily 

[RUNCHARGER]

I suggest magnetizing your 1/4 drive setup when doing the dash vent bolts. I too have done it with the windshield in and it isn't too hard.

[Chryco Psycho]

I have tried magnetized drives , flex drives , wobble drives , simply could not start any of the bolts , my hands are just too big , never been able to start them with the windshield in place 

[DodgeGuy]

Be warned getting the 4 bolts back in by the defrost ducts is nearly impossible with the windsheild in place , I spent about 3 hrs trying to get the bolts started , the owners girlfriend came home & she was able to slide her hands right down there & Start the bolts easily 

lol, well, my wife is a tiny little thing, so I might need her to help if I can't get them started!

Thanks for the heads up!

[anlauto]

With the windshield in....lay a large mirror on the outside of the windshield.....place a light in just the right spot.....take a deep breath....find your patience....and a way you go......YES it's a PITA.....but in can be done.

[Adams1stCuda]

After reading through all of that, it seems like if I'm just replacing the dash wiring harness with a plug and play harness, I wouldn't need to do ALL of that correct?

Those directions are suited for someone who is completely removing the dash from the car (in order to rebuild it).

What I basically need to do is "peel it back" so I can access the back of the instrument cluster in order to do the rewire.  I planned on just loosening the door pillar bolts and letting the dash swivel on those.

Unless I'm missing something (which I could very easily be doing), I'm going to just pivot the dash as one complete unit to gain access to the back of it, but I'm not going to need to disassemble anything....Is that correct?

For me it was just easier to pull the whole thing.  I wanted to be able to access all wire routing clips as well as inspect everything else.  Also didn't want to try to work in the smaller space.  The only difference for you would be leaving a few cables attached.  That being said...my replacing the wiring harness has turned into a larger project of disassembling the dash to repaint the frame, pulling the heater box to restore it, and probably going to strip the interior floorboard to clean it up and install sound/heat insulation before putting it all back together...