Battery Cable ...recommendation

[chargerdon]

Need recommendation for a new Positive side battery cable.    Currently i have an aftermarket Battery Terminal on my 74 Challenger.   On it is the heavy (i do not know the gauge or what is needed) cable that runs to the starter motor, and a heavy (i think 10 gauge) cable to the starter relay.   Its missing the fusible link.   

I have several times gotten corrosion on the cable to the starter motor and have had to clean it to start the car.   Yes, i spray it with corrosion protector red stuff.   Still its exposed to the air on that Battery terminal.   Tired of doing that and i cant trim it back to "fresh clean wires" as its barely long enough now.   So, i thought bite the bullet and put on a new cable with "factory ends" that are less susceptible to corrosion.   

First, i can find at the various part stores cables they call battery to switch in the $10-20 dollar range, that have either 4ga or 6ga main cable in various lengths...   And then the second lead that ends with a butt connector.   The second lead all appear (not specified) to be only 12 ga.   I could hook up the starter relay to that second lead...however, i have done the ammeter bypass so i have a 10 gauge wire straight from alternator to the starter relay...   Now if i connect the replacement battery cable with its 12 gauge wire to the starter relay, i have kinda UNDONE the upgrade to 10 gauge..   

So, questions are...
1) is 6gauge heavy enough to the starter or should i choose one with 4 Ga.   What was the factory original ? 
2) What length do i need...their sold in 38" to 56" 
3)  Does anybody know of a new cable that has the lead for the starter relay heavier than the 12 gauge they all seem to be ?

Lastly, can anyone simply recommend a new cable brand and seller that would have 10 gauge or more for the starter relay, and comes already with a ring connector that will reach the near starter relay ?? 

Thanks

[Burdar]

Go to your local Chrysler dealer.  You can still buy a new reproduction cable from them.  They aren't 100% correct for an OE type car but they are 1000x better then a parts store cable.  They are a direct bolt-on...no splicing of wires.

[Burdar]

Now if i connect the replacement battery cable with its 12 gauge wire to the starter relay, i have kinda UNDONE the upgrade to 10 gauge..   

Not really.  The alternator is still feeding the accessories(from the starter relay) from the 10 gauge wire.  The 10 gauge wire is so you don't get a lot of voltage drop from the alternator to the relay.  If the wire from the relay to the battery is 12 gauge, it's a really short length so voltage drop on that wire probably isn't a big concern.  Also, the fusible link is much smaller then 10 gauge anyway.   

[dodj]

I would want #4 for the starter wire.  I think that is factory size.
I  use #1 motor lead wire,  but it's coming from the trunk.

[chargerdon]

Now if i connect the replacement battery cable with its 12 gauge wire to the starter relay, i have kinda UNDONE the upgrade to 10 gauge..   

Not really.  The alternator is still feeding the accessories(from the starter relay) from the 10 gauge wire.  The 10 gauge wire is so you don't get a lot of voltage drop from the alternator to the relay.  If the wire from the relay to the battery is 12 gauge, it's a really short length so voltage drop on that wire probably isn't a big concern.  Also, the fusible link is much smaller then 10 gauge anyway.

I'm not so worried about voltage drop...but amperage!!  Its true that to "run the car" my 10 gauge alternator wire is feeding the system from the relay back into the car.   

However, charging the battery is from the relay to the battery.   If i were to drain the battery and need a jump start, then once started the alternator would be putting out 40+ amps at first to recharge the battery.   12ga is only rated at 20 amp.    Right now the wire from battery to relay is a 10 gauge capable of carrying 30+ amps but of course that would be replaced with a new cable.   Lastly the fusible link is on the relay to bulk head connector side, not the battery to relay side.   

[DeathProofCuda]

Go to your local Chrysler dealer.  You can still buy a new reproduction cable from them.  They aren't 100% correct for an OE type car but they are 1000x better then a parts store cable.  They are a direct bolt-on...no splicing of wires.

I was curious, so just did a quick Google search for 70 Cuda battery cable.  The results I got back show options for reproduction cables running from approximately $125 to $150.  WTF??  When did that happen?

[Burdar]

I bought a couple of them in the $40 range.  That was a few years ago though.  Just checked e-bay.  They have one for $66 and another for $75.

[Montclaire]

I just put one of these on my 74 Barracuda w/440.  Fit fine and it's actual copper wire, not aluminum like a lot of the repop junk.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333757998418

[dodj]

I'm not so worried about voltage drop...but amperage!! 

You should be concerned with voltage drop. That is what causes higher amperage.Your starter will do it's best to draw the same power. So if you have less voltage, it will draw higher amps to end up drawing the same power to get the job done. 
As with anything in electricity, voltage amps and resistance are all closely related. P=VxI.

[70 Top Banana]

Where is the fusible link? On the red 10 ga wire from the positive cable to the starter relay? I looked at mine and I think it has been cut out of the harness.

[Jay Bee]

I bought my positive battery cable from Evans Wiring ages ago - no issues 

Here's the fusible link...

[70 Top Banana]

Terrific, Thanks!

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Got my cable from ROSEVILLE years ago.... no issues

[SpeedD408]

521 Restorations seems to have a good selection:

https://521restorations.com/e-body/electrical/battery-cables/

I've used them for fasteners and been happy with them.  I have not used their cables yet.

[Montclaire]

Make sure you ask if they use copper or aluminum cable.  A lot of the repop cables are aluminum these days.