Battery relocation kit

[nsmall]

I'm relocating my battery to the trunk.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1200a

I found that kit for pretty cheap.

Not sure if this one's worth 75 bucks more but here's another one....

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48201

I'm not looking for anything fancy. New cable cost me like 3 bucks a foot so I might as well just buy one of these kits

If anyone knows of a better one let me know as I was going to try to use my stock tray and I'm thinking I need a box that's made to hold the battery down tight versus trying to get my stock tray Mickey Moused together.

Thanks

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I have an old summit kit with 2ga on my hemi swap [chrysler mini starter] and have a 1v drop along the 2ga cable when cranking.

It's too small. Go 0ga or 1/0.

I used an off road mount because I didn't care for the plastic boxes and straps.




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[nsmall]

Goody, I have a simple 340, you dont think 2 gauge will work?


I also was curious about something else.  I understand I would run the new cable from the starter to the battery.  HOWEVER I had a thick red wire running from the positive battery terminal to the starter relay.  How do I avoid this or was it not necessary?  Can I just run a red wire from the starter relay to the starter?  Sorry for the questions.  Thanks

[Burdar]

The FACTORY cable has two wires on it.  The large cable runs directly to the starter.  That cable's ONLY job is to power the starter.  The smaller cable runs to the relay.  That cable powers the ENTIRE car.  When you move the battery to the trunk, I believe the right way to do it is to run the main cable from the battery to the starter.  Then run your smaller cable from the starter to the relay.

Race cars that require a cut-off switch get more complicated.  I assume you aren't going to install any battery cut-off switch right?

Goody...that's a nice simple/clean looking battery mount.  I like it.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Goody, I have a simple 340, you dont think 2 gauge will work?

I wouldn't expect a new hemi with a mini-starter to be harder to turn than an old flat tappet 340.

I suggest going larger than 2ga if you are moving it to the trunk.


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[A.Gramz]

I would go 1/0     expecially if elec fan , a/c, upgraded lighting, direct drive starter.  Etc

[nsmall]

Thanks for the advice.  1 gauge is $7 a foot.  Ouch.  Will this ever end?

[Brads70]

Thanks for the advice.  1 gauge is $7 a foot.  Ouch.  Will this ever end?

I used welding cable , check it out , might be cheaper?

[A.Gramz]

  I use welding cable often I like that it's easy flexible with more strands of wire compared to regular bat cable.   Only thing is it's black.

[61K T/A]

This is what I used from my trunk mount to mini starter.  Starter turns fast. No complaints.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEMCo-3-0-Gauge-AWG-Welding-Lead-Car-Battery-Cable-Copper-Wire-MADE-IN-USA/282122197332?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Don't forget to solder the terminal ends.

[HP_Cuda]

When relocating the battery to the trunk, resistance is not your friend.

Larger gauge wire = lower resistance

Solid wire = even lower resistance to stranded wire

[nsmall]

@61K T/A

You mentioned I have to solder the ends.  Is this recommended or required?

Thanks

[61K T/A]

For the best connection use solder. A small torch is necessary. You can either buy pre fit solder plugs or use  wire. I used rosin core lead wire. I wouldn't just crimp the connector but thats up to you.

[61K T/A]

I have an old summit kit with 2ga on my hemi swap [chrysler mini starter] and have a 1v drop along the 2ga cable when cranking.

It's too small. Go 0ga or 1/0.

I used an off road mount because I didn't care for the plastic boxes and straps.




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That's a first class install Goody. BTW I tossed the wing nuts and use 2 hex nuts on each stud so the wires will never loosen up.

[dodj]

I thought the whole reason for a "box" was to vent any gases (hydrogen) from the charging of the battery to be vented outside the car. Is that not a concern Goody?