Convert amp to volt and redo wiring ?

[Racer57]

I've got to replace my tach this winter and other postings have made me decide to redo the amp gauge. Is there a posting that shows step by step how to delete the hot lead to amp gauge that goes through the firewall and then rewire to get power for everything including a volt gauge ?  I can use a volt meter, but that is the limit of my electrical skills and don't want to fry anything so thats why I need a step by step. I'm not even sure I'm asking the question properly, but hope you know wtf I mean.   

[HP_Cuda]

If you are talking a standard dash over a Rallye Dash then you could get a delete piece and then modify it to accept a 2 1/8" voltmeter gauge like these:

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/gauges-analog/department/gauges-accessories?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&N=4294904112%2B4294951021%2B4294951097%2B4294882872%2B4294944904%2B4294944926

[Cudakiller70]

https://forum.e-bodies.org/electrical-and-audio/11/alternator-died-any-low-cost-upgrades/3279/
In this thread I like what 1 Wild R/T suggests, this gets a good start.

Then this one for the volt gauge
https://forum.e-bodies.org/interior/6/voltage-gauge-for-cuda-rallye-dash/685/

[Racer57]

Thanks for the suggestions, but I'll most likely have Redline take care of the gauge. What I really need to know is how to properly eliminate all of the wires involved with the amp gauge(alternator, firewall connector, etc) and then properly feeding the correct wiring to an volt gauge.

[340challconvert]

Try this:
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

[340challconvert]

This is even better!
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

[nsmall]

I just had redline restore my gauges but I didn't have them do the volt conversion as they wanted $300 and I thought that seemed crazy.

You can ask Shannon who I believe is the owner.... I'm pretty sure you don't need eliminate anything you just hook it back up the way you had it to the ammeter and you're good to go.

[dodj]

Bare minimum, if you are getting the ammeter replaced with a volt meter.
After the gauge is returned from redline, put both wires that were on the original ammeter to the +ve post of the new voltmeter. If the volt meter has a ground post, connect that post to a good ground on the dash frame.....You are done.

If you are looking to improve the electrical system overall as well, look at the madelectrical link posted by 340chall.

I personally don't like the drilling that the madelectrical guy suggests so I used two parallel wires to the interior of the car instead.
To do that, you run a separate bypass wire from the alt to the +ve battery post (or starter solenoid) Fuse this wire. I used an 80 amp fuse. You then take the original black wire that fed alternator power to the interior of the car and tie it to the red wire that feeds the interior of the car off the starter solenoid. Connect it to the red wire in such a way that the fusible link or fuse still protects the wiring from short cct. When you tie those two wires together and you have the two former ammeter wires terminated on the same post, you have effectively created a parallel feed for the interior. Significantly reducing the likelihood of melting your bulkhead connector.

[Racer57]

Bare minimum, if you are getting the ammeter replaced with a volt meter.
After the gauge is returned from redline, put both wires that were on the original ammeter to the +ve post of the new voltmeter. If the volt meter has a ground post, connect that post to a good ground on the dash frame.....You are done.

If you are looking to improve the electrical system overall as well, look at the madelectrical link posted by 340chall.

I personally don't like the drilling that the madelectrical guy suggests so I used two parallel wires to the interior of the car instead.
To do that, you run a separate bypass wire from the alt to the +ve battery post (or starter solenoid) Fuse this wire. I used an 80 amp fuse. You then take the original black wire that fed alternator power to the interior of the car and tie it to the red wire that feeds the interior of the car off the starter solenoid. Connect it to the red wire in such a way that the fusible link or fuse still protects the wiring from short cct. When you tie those two wires together and you have the two former ammeter wires terminated on the same post, you have effectively created a parallel feed for the interior. Significantly reducing the likelihood of melting your bulkhead connector.

Thanks !  This is what I've been looking/hoping for.  Don't be surprised though if you get a pm with pics in the middle of the winter wanting to double check stuff.      Wiring scares the he11 outta me.

[Roadman]

Bare minimum, if you are getting the ammeter replaced with a volt meter.
After the gauge is returned from redline, put both wires that were on the original ammeter to the +ve post of the new voltmeter. If the volt meter has a ground post, connect that post to a good ground on the dash frame.....You are done.

If you are looking to improve the electrical system overall as well, look at the madelectrical link posted by 340chall.

I personally don't like the drilling that the madelectrical guy suggests so I used two parallel wires to the interior of the car instead.
To do that, you run a separate bypass wire from the alt to the +ve battery post (or starter solenoid) Fuse this wire. I used an 80 amp fuse. You then take the original black wire that fed alternator power to the interior of the car and tie it to the red wire that feeds the interior of the car off the starter solenoid. Connect it to the red wire in such a way that the fusible link or fuse still protects the wiring from short cct. When you tie those two wires together and you have the two former ammeter wires terminated on the same post, you have effectively created a parallel feed for the interior. Significantly reducing the likelihood of melting your bulkhead connector.

Thanks !  This is what I've been looking/hoping for.  Don't be surprised though if you get a pm with pics in the middle of the winter wanting to double check stuff.      Wiring scares the he11 outta me.

                            

[dodj]

OK, here's a pic