Fusible Link and voltage limiter

[cataclysm80]

  With a link at both ends, they "should" both burn up and drop power to the entire jumper wire. 

It's heat from resistance that burns the fusible links (or blows fuses). 
At higher ambient temperatures, a fusible link will burn quicker than it would at a lower ambient temperature.
The alternator end of the wire, being closer to the engine, probably has a higher temp and should burn before the other end.
I'm not sure how severe this time difference will be, maybe you won't notice it.
Worst case scenario, the alternator end burns first, and if the wire shorts against something, that will burn the other end and your OK.

[screamindriver]

If you have the fusible link at the starter relay and you have an upstream problem with the charge wire grounding...The fusible link is'nt going to "see" the load{from the alternator} initially and remain intact so it's useless in that scenario...The fusible link at the alternator would help only in that situation..
    If it's a charging amp related heat issue a fusible link at the starter relay would be enough...Once it blows the charge wire should'nt have any issues and cool off quickly....
   If I add the secondary charge wire I either A} Rewrap the original harness to include the new,heavy gauge wire or B}Create it's own wrapped harness and run it with the wiring...Either way unless there's a catastrophic failure where something else severs/grounds the wire it shouldn't have the ability to ground itself...But in that case yes a double fusible link would be better...

[ebodycopper]

Take a look at this link. It goes a long way in explaining the issues you are referring to.  http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

[cataclysm80]

   Yep, that looks good.

[Cuda Cody]

That's some good information.  Thanks for sharing the link @ebodycopper   

Take a look at this link. It goes a long way in explaining the issues you are referring to.  http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

[nsmall]

Sorry, not able to insert quotes, don't know how.  But thanks for all the advice.

I will avoid any sort of jump starting...Thanks!  I will disconnect the battery before touching any wires under the dash...Thanks

Not sure what Redline sells for a voltage limiter, but I will buy a new USA one as $50 is no big deal at this point.

I have driven the car 1500 miles, hope to take it apart this spring.  No issues.  The Redlines guy just makes me paranoid, but I'm thinking I can wait as I have ZERO issues and that fan ran a lot this past summer as I live in the desert.

It seems like I have a ground issue as my gauges and stereo sometimes work and sometimes I have to turn the engine off and turn it back on to get them to work.  Once they are on, they work fine.  Maybe this is an ignition issue?  Ignition wires are loose possibly?

I SEE NO FUSEABLE LINK.  SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS...

This red wire that is supposed to have a fuseable link appears to attach to my firewall.  Can I install a fuseable link on the existing wire?


I am only half way through reading your helpful posts on page one.  give me time to keep reading and responding.   Thanks

[nsmall]

I doubled checked and grabbed the red wire that connects from my firewall to the starter relay...there is no fuseable link folks.

I plan to keep the entire original wire harness as its in decent shape.

I also just confirmed the big red wire from the alternator goes straight to the starter and there is NO FUSE.
Do disconnect this wire? Should I take this wire out of my car completely? 

Besides unhooking my red wire described above which doesn't sound like its running to my ammeter gauge I am under the impression I need to do the following...

I need to buy some  10 gauge wire that has a fuseable link (or do I buy the fuseable link and install them myself) and have ONE fuse near the alternator,  run this wire most likely around the rear of the engine and to the starter relay with a second fuseable link just before the starter relay? 

Where do I buy these fuseable links? 

It was also suggested I wrap the wire.  Any idea where to buy some nice professional looking wire covers vs black tape.  Not sure how to explain what I want, but something to wrap the wire besides tape.

Attached is a photo and like I said, the thick red wire in the photo goes straight to the starter.

What else am I missing?  If that red wire from my alternator is not running to the dash I am under the impression my ammeter gauge has no power running to it?

Thanks folks

[nsmall]

@Burdar

@cataclysm80

@screamindriver

I tried tagging burdar, screamindriver, and cataclysm.

Not sure if I was able to get to them with that tag as I haven't heard from them yet. No major pressure or anything as I'm taking forever to finish this car anyway and I'm obviously not paying you guys to give me advice so thank you so much for your help.

More questions. Do I need to keep the red wire from my alternator to my starter hooked up as I'm assuming that's how my starter gets power?

Do you guys need more pictures in order to help me understand what I need to do? 

I reread what everyone said and I'm thinking that having my red main wire go from the alternator to the starter is not a stock set up its supposed to go to the dash, is that correct?

Either way I hope I've given enough explanations that you guys could give me some advice on what I need to do.... bypass the dash and avoid fires

Thanks

[Cuda Cody]

I would guess that to be a ground.  Clean the ground connection on the motor, radiator support and battery.   

It seems like I have a ground issue as my gauges and stereo sometimes work and sometimes I have to turn the engine off and turn it back on to get them to work.  Once they are on, they work fine.  Maybe this is an ignition issue?  Ignition wires are loose possibly?

[screamindriver]

I would guess that to be a ground.  Clean the ground connection on the motor, radiator support and battery.   

It seems like I have a ground issue as my gauges and stereo sometimes work and sometimes I have to turn the engine off and turn it back on to get them to work.  Once they are on, they work fine.  Maybe this is an ignition issue?  Ignition wires are loose possibly?

Agreed...Clean the connections Cody has suggested....IF that doesn't do the trick then we'll move on to the next step for that problem..
  OK a little clarification please...When you say "the red wire is connected from the alt to the starter" do you mean the starter relay ??? If the answer is yes then you've already got your charge wire bypassing the bulkhead connections{bypassing the amp gauge with the main charge current} and there would be no need to buy any additional 10gauge wire...

   In any case there's no fusible link you should install  at least one...I've posted a link in my previous response to get a reproduction piece that looks like the original...IF originality isn't a concern you could add your own using a smaller gauge wire{14 gauge if the charge wire is 10 gauge} as others have suggested..

[nsmall]

@screamindriver

You said..."OK a little clarification please...When you say "the red wire is connected from the alt to the starter" do you mean the starter relay ???"

Answer:  NO

That big red wire running from the alternator runs straight to the starter (no fuseable link in that wire)

There is also another red wire (not nearly as thick as the alternator to starter wire) that runs from the fire wall (see pics..it goes into a bulk head connector..I think) to the starter relay (see another pic I posted).  Again, no fuseable link in this wire. 

Do I need to take more photos?  What should I do?  Should I add a 14 guage wire in addition to what I have set up from the alternator to the starter relay with a fuseable link on both ends? 

as for the grounds, thanks for the advice guys, I will do that.

On a totally different topic, got the 340 tuned in real nice.  Lays rubber pretty easily with the adjustment crycho psycho gave me regarding the vacuum advance.  Thanks CP!  The 355 SG was also a great addition.  Lots of fun

[nsmall]

@screamindriver  @cataclysm80

So I did some reading and from what I understand I need an add a fusible link in between the firewall and that starter relay red wire that does not currently have a fusible link.  Correct?

I also need to add a fuseable link to the thick red wire running from the alternator to the starter.  Correct?

In an effort to be extra safe...I run a fusible link on both ends of a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay?

I don't care about stock appearing so I'm under the impression I can add these fusible links to the existing wire and to the new one I purchase. Is that correct? I have a friend who can help me with this as he's really smart but I need to explain to him what I want.  Just to confirm what exact size of a fuse should I buy?

Thanks

[Burdar]

The way the factory designed the system is this...

The + battery cable has two wires...one thick and one thin.  The large heavy wire goes directly from the battery to the starter.   There was no wire from the alternator to the starter.  The smaller + cable wire goes from the battery to the starter relay.  From the starter relay, the wire goes through a fusible link before it goes into the bulkhead connector.  That wire powers EVERYTHING on the car except for the starter itself which is powered by the large + cable. 

So I did some reading and from what I understand I need an add a fusible link in between the firewall and that starter relay red wire that does not currently have a fusible link.  Correct?

Yes. However, you should already have one there.  The factory put one there.  If you really don't have a link between the starter relay and the bulkhead connector, someone removed it.

I also need to add a fuseable link to the thick red wire running from the alternator to the starter.  Correct?

No.  There shouldn't be any wire that runs from the alternator to the starter.  The large starter wire should run from the starter, right to the battery.

In an effort to be extra safe...I run a fusible link on both ends of a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay?

That's what I would do.  I would also add one to the factory wire that's connected to the alternator stud.

[Burdar]

Is your battery still in the engine compartment or is it in the trunk? 

The wire that's running from the alternator to the starter...is that wire powering the starter? 

If your battery is still in the engine compartment, you can buy a replacement + battery cable from Chrysler still.  You can get them for around $40.

[cataclysm80]

@Burdar

@cataclysm80

@screamindriver

I tried tagging burdar, screamindriver, and cataclysm.

Not sure if I was able to get to them with that tag as I haven't heard from them yet. No major pressure or anything as I'm taking forever to finish this car anyway and I'm obviously not paying you guys to give me advice so thank you so much for your help.

It looks like you've got the hang of tagging.   It's working properly. 

Tagging people sends them a Message.  I just haven't gotten into the habit of checking my messages here yet.
I wonder if there's a way to make the envelope icon blink if you have unread messages?   I've seen that on other forums, and it seems to help draw attention to the message box if something new shows up.