Really confused

[jlemler]

When it comes to wiring a trouble shooting electrical issues I am a complete novice.  Here is the situation:

1. I start the car (70 Cuda) it starts fine.
2. I hit the brakes and everything goes dim. Amp meter goes a
   little in to discharge.
3. I rev the engine and the meter goes a little into charge.
4. Turn on the lights at idle and the meter goes almost all they way to
    D or Discharge.  I give it some gas and it almost makes it back the
    way to center on the meter. 
5.  If I step of the gas when driving it is the the electrical power is
    drain from the car and it stalls unless I step on the gas.
6.  When I am sitting idling I notice the stereo light on my am/fm will
     flicker with the rotation of the engine.  The overhead console
     lights will get very bright if I rev the engine the stereo light stops
    flickering.
7.  Its a 383 engine, no power brakes, no power steering.  The
    alternator is about 6 years old and the battery is brand new, like
    yesterday new.
Any ideas?  any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
     will get very bright.

[71chally]

Have you tested the alternator to make sure it is putting out the correct volts?

[dodj]

Go through ALL your connections. In particular. the bulkhead connector and ammeter connections. But also on the battery, VR grounding to the firewall, start solenoid connections and your fusible link connections.

[dodj]

And you might want to check out this thread...for learning about ebody elec systems

Hmmm....guess I forgot to link the other thread....oh well, moreparts got it

[moreparts]

I'd do all of the above suggestions and watch this video here put together by a member to really understand what's going on.  Particularly if you have anything non factory added to your electrical system.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/electrical-and-audio/11/factory-original-chrysler-ammeter-based-charging-system-and-additional-loading/29803/;topicseen

[jlemler]

O.K. I am willing to learn.  I have a volt meter, what is the best way to test the volt meter.  I know it is a basic thing; however, like I said I am a complete novice.  I am willing to learn. So if anyone is willing to answer this with directions thank you.

[Jay Bee]

I had a similar situation but not as drastic. Idle RPM's normal, driving at night, come to a stop, my LED dash lights go completely out & ammeter swings towards D. Rev engine, or start moving, dash lights come on. Replacing the alternator cured my issue.

[MoparLeo]

Automotive electrical 101. Always start at the battery and work your way out.
New does not always guarantee good.  Fully slow charge with a battery charger. 2 amps slow.  Load test when done. If the battery is not up to the job, the alternator struggles to try to do it.
Is battery the correct size for your car ? Battery cables and terminal ends clean, no corrosion ?
 No temporary cable ends. They are designed only to be temporary, the same as a modern spare. Only used until the tire is replaced.
Check/clean all electrical connections, both all the grounds (The biggest problem on old cars) and positive connections.

You say the battery is new. When did the current problem start and was any work done that started this ? etc.. been done
 More detailed info will help.

[captcolour]

If your engine bay was recently painted, I'd first check the ground at the voltage regulator.  You can turn the car on with the headlights on then take a wire from a good ground and touch the voltage regulator with it.  If lights get bright, then I'd remove the voltage regulator and scuff the paint behind it to get metal to metal contact with the back of the voltage regulator, then remount.