Thoughts on adding a positive bus bar

[SpeedD408]

I have a '71 Cuda 383 that's been modified a bit before I got it.  For instance it has the 72> electronic ignition. 

After reading the electrical threads, I bought the headlight, road lamp and AC relay kits from @crackedback last year and the kits look great.  I have the headlight/road light kit just about installed and I noticed the lug on the back of my alternator doesn't have much room left.  It took a min to get the nut on with just the stock and head/road lap relay wires and I have one more to add for the AC relay.  Therefore, I had a thought....  maybe it would be better to run a 6 AWG or maybe 4 AWG cable to a bus bar and then I would have additional terminals to attach these relays and do the parallel wiring to take the load off the Packard connections at the firewall as well.

Thinking a 4 position bus bar like:

https://smile.amazon.com/Pike-Industries-Copper-Busbar-Terminal/dp/B08JKXKF3Q/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=bus+bar+red+400a&qid=1623419032&sr=8-2

or

https://smile.amazon.com/Post-Power-Distribution-Block-Pair/dp/B07THLYYH3/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=bus%2Bbar%2Bred%2B400a&qid=1623420283&sr=8-4&th=1

Does this sound like a good idea?  Stupid?  Other/better options/thoughts?

Thanks.

[Skdmark]

I'm considering adding a sealed fuse / mini relay / bus panel under the battery tray.
Something from Eaton Bussmann

https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1369/Power-Distribution-Modules/

[Burdar]

The bus bars linked in the 1st post are a lot bigger then you would think.  I ordered one and was shocked at how big it is. No way would I be able to hide something that big under the batter tray without it being seen easily. 

I found one that was much smaller and I think it will work just fine.  I added an 8 gauge wire from the alternator stud to the starter relay.  Then I ran another 8 gauge wire from the relay to the bus bar under the battery tray.  That's also where I have the fuse holders for the headlights and convertible top relays.  They are completely hidden but still gives you access to the fuses if you ever need to get to them.

[Burdar]

This is the style I ended up using.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224362344139

[crackedback]

You could certainly put a busbar in if the alt output is too busy.

Thanks for the compliment on the kits.

Rob

[SpeedD408]

Ok, so the conclusion seems to be that this is idea is appropriate.  The only question being how big of a bar and where to put it. 

I agree the 4 terminal bus bars are larger about 6 inches in length.  The 2 terminal bars are naturally smaller, but I like the covers on the 4 terminal bars.  I guess it's time to hunt for a short bar that has a cover (not a fan of having positive connections exposed).

Thank you all.

[Burdar]

(not a fan of having positive connections exposed).

I thought the same thing...I wanted the + connection covered.  But then I realized that the starter relay is exposed.  The + battery terminal is exposed too.

On mine I guess I could put a rubber cap over the exposed studs but it clears everything under the tray.  I can't see how it could be grounded accidentally.  What ever you are comfortable with I guess though.  Post pictures of it when you're done.

[crackedback]

You could get a single post and load them up.  Don't have to be a bar, similar to what was posted in here.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/47217/Junction-Block-Stud-47217-Non-Feed-Through-/

[SpeedD408]

Agree, doesn't have to be a bar.  Found this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/MGI-SpeedWare-Power-Distribution-Junction/dp/B08K78ZV2J/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2RVHSJW4RHYS22JHP93Y

I can run a nice AWG to the center from the alternator through the cap.  Put 21+ amp loads on the center stud and then 20A loads and smaller to the connections off the small connections around it.

I bought it, not sure it will be what I end up with but have to start some place.

[anlauto]

Agree, doesn't have to be a bar.  Found this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/MGI-SpeedWare-Power-Distribution-Junction/dp/B08K78ZV2J/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2RVHSJW4RHYS22JHP93Y

I can run a nice AWG to the center from the alternator through the cap.  Put 21+ amp loads on the center stud and then 20A loads and smaller to the connections off the small connections around it.

I bought it, not sure it will be what I end up with but have to start some place.

I'm using this exact one in the resto-mod I'm building, feels like pretty solid construction, I'm happy with it.
You can see it in the upper left hand corner of this picture...I'm using it to connect the main power cable coming from the trunk to the power cable going the the engine harness.