year one wire harnesses

[anlauto]

I don't give my customer's a choice. I put all new M&H wiring in all my restoration projects.

[MoparLeo]

I was just using your picture to raise a point.  Since many people read these threads I hope that other people can take away something from them. If anyone out there has seen a similar situation on their bulkhead connectors or have noticed a burnt wire odor, or burnt wire/wires at the bottom of the steering column.  Don't ignore it. It is more common than you think. Remember that even a new wiring harness will have limitations. Back in the early days of the change from generators to alternators, the alternator on a late 60's - early 70's Mopar would have  been only rated at about 35 amps. on a standard wiring harness . An HD harness would be rated for about 60 amps. on a HD unit. Jump ahead to today. High energy ignitions, high output stereo amplifiers,  HD headlights etc.... OK for a modern electrical system built to handle high loads but on a system designed over 40 years ago will not be up to snuff., I will list a few links that have good Mopar electrical info on a few different applications.  Please read and save what applies to you. 
http://www.allpar.com/fix/alternator.html
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24
http://rt-eng.com/rte/images/e/e5/LimiterManualIVR3_D.pdf
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0808-fixing-dim-or-blinking-headlights/
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

[nsmall]

@Jay Bee

Jay  Bee...Jay is my middle name.

thanks for the heads up on the reverse light harness.  Just checked mine, looks horrible.

Am I missing anything else?  My steering column harness looks good, my blinker switch is new.

I am ordering everything mentioned at the beginning of my post plus the reverse lights, DO I NEED ANYTHING ELSE? 

Thanks

[Chryco Psycho]

You should have 5 harness
- Main / dash & fuse block / bulkhead
- Taillight
- Engine
- Front lighting
-  trans /reverse light if 4 spd

[anlauto]

I also but the clutch switch wire...little 12" green wire that goes to the relay.

[Claudia]

Based on all my research I am thinking I need to spring the $$$$ for new wiring.

I have a 73 Cuda with rallye gauges.

I have what am assuming to be stock ignition?  Attached are some photos.  I dont know if my set up is stock so I need your input on this.

Are these the correct harnesses I want?

https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu329e

https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu1

https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu5

https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/rl77

There is an option for 70 and 71 engine harnesses that have an electronic ignition, but not for 73.  So Im assuming I have picked the correct set up as 73 only has one engine harness set up?

Are the yearone harnesses 100% factory correct?  As in totally plug and play ready to go?

I guess I will keep my ammeter set up even though redlines near where I live can can do the volt conversion for $250.

Lastly, what type of wire grease should I buy to ensure the longevity of the new set up?

Thanks in advance.

I also included photos of areas where it doesn't look so good.

IMO - I did not feel good about trusting any old wiring.  I bought all new wiring harnesses from Year One for my Cuda.  As of current, I have not started my car with the new wiring harnesses as I am still installing my dash and steering column but everything thus far has been 100% plug and play and every wire has been the correct gauge and color according to the FSM schematics.  I did the ammeter to volt meter upgrade on my rallye dash so I did have to cut and splice a couple of the main dash harness wires to make that work but it was quick and easy.  Outside of that, I am (so far) a fan of the M & H wiring harnesses.  Expensive but should be well worth it in the long run.

[MoparDave]

@nsmall

AS everyone has mentioned. Use a 30 code from YO, Which is the best deal out there. Classic sells the MH also but is limited and actually buys them through YO, but then you would be paying tax. also check your engine harness as 73 may have been a connection at the right valve cover. I know 74 engine harness is a 2 piece, If this is the case you will need to order both pieces.

My reasoning for all new harness's is simple. electrical fires are bad. If a wiring is botched or compromise and you cant confidently repair, then spend the money and replace it. This is one of those things I don't compromise on as Alan pointed out.

[Jay Bee]

DO I NEED ANYTHING ELSE? 

Personally, I can't think of anything more, you're covered with those 5 harnesses.

[nsmall]

Sorry, new issue.  I think the generic 73 engine harness I was about to buy may NOT be the one I want.

I think this is the one I want....https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu324e#prettyPhoto.  I can try to post a pic of my fender tag later to confirm it was built "up to october of 1973"

Thanks

[nsmall]

My fender tag

[JS29]

September 12 1972, SBD. I am no expert, but I know that much.   

[nsmall]

@Burdar

I'm sorry but the 30% off sale at yearone ends today so I'm trying to get this done.

I can't tell for sure from the pictures online but I think I want the engine wiring harness from the most recent link I posted on this thread.  Am I correct?

Attached are some pics

[Burdar]

That link is for a 1974 harness.  An October 73 built car will be a 74 model.  You're car's SPD is Sept of 72.

[Burdar]

It looks like an HU1 would be correct for a 73.

https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu1

[nsmall]

@Burdar

Thanks Darren.  The picture online for a 74 harness looks more closely like the one I currently have, but you are always right and I trust you more than a picture (thats hard to see clearly) so I will buy the one for 73 only you just mentioned.  Thanks.  I want to order this today.'

Neil