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340 Winter Upgrade

Started by Shane Kelley, January 02, 2018, 09:21:01 AM

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HP_Cuda


Nice port job there but blowers are also an alternative to overcoming the inefficiencies in heads.
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Shane Kelley

Quote from: HP_Cuda on March 01, 2018, 12:50:45 PM

Nice port job there but blowers are also an alternative to overcoming the inefficiencies in heads.

I don't really want to put a blower on my car. That might be a little to overboard for this kind of build. I have built a couple supercharged cars in the past and they do rip.

This is as far as I have got getting it back together. Very happy with the porting work. I bought a new bead blast cabinet and needing to get my old one changed over to plastic media. I want to see how it does on my aluminum intake. So that's my hold up. Hopefully I can get that accomplished this weekend. 


Cudakiller70

What rocker arms, shafts, etc are those?
Is that an HEI large body distributor?
Nice and super clean stuff as usual Shane!


Shane Kelley

Quote from: Cudakiller70 on March 08, 2018, 10:52:58 AM
What rocker arms, shafts, etc are those?
Is that an HEI large body distributor?
Nice and super clean stuff as usual Shane!
The rockers and shafts are stock 273's.  Aftermarket billet hold downs and Crane adjusters with lock nuts on the rockers.
Distributor is a Mopar Performance Billet mechanical advance. Hard to come by and has been discontinued for years. Real nice piece! Hooks up the same as factory electronic. The housing is 2 piece that separates for easy access to the advance springs so you can adjust the timing curves. 

Thanks for the compliment!

nsmall

You are always killing it Shane.   :banana:

MOPAR MITCH

How did you determine what push rods to use?  Their length?   I ask because I've encountered length issues finding the correct length push rods.    7.25" total overall seems OK, but any longer and they will break due to interference under the rocker arm.   The factory 273 push rods are too long at ~7.5/16 - 7.3/8 overall.

HP_Cuda


When setting up the heads you use a adjustable push rod length tool to determine the length you need.

Here is one:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/pushrod-length-checkers

This way you avoid PTV issues.
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200


LinceCuda


Cudakiller70

#53
Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on March 15, 2018, 11:12:55 AM
How did you determine what push rods to use?  Their length?   I ask because I've encountered length issues finding the correct length push rods.    7.25" total overall seems OK, but any longer and they will break due to interference under the rocker arm.   The factory 273 push rods are too long at ~7.5/16 - 7.3/8 overall.
@MOPAR MITCH I have adjustable rockers stock 273's and used these instructions with adjustable pushrod checker. Also I made a solid lifter set to cam spec' preload to use with adjustable pushrod.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7709-1/overview/
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/LengthCheckerMay20162.pdf

Shane Kelley

Quote from: MOPAR MITCH on March 15, 2018, 11:12:55 AM
How did you determine what push rods to use?  Their length?   I ask because I've encountered length issues finding the correct length push rods.    7.25" total overall seems OK, but any longer and they will break due to interference under the rocker arm.   The factory 273 push rods are too long at ~7.5/16 - 7.3/8 overall.
I got lucky and this set up was already in a running 340 I bought. When I switched my Road Runner 340 over to these rocker arms I used the same length. 7.389
Lots of hard runs and no issues. Below is a pic of the motor in the Road Runner with the stock 273 adjusters. Valves are adjusted in this pic. I changed to a lock nut design on the motor in the Cuda only because I felt the the adjusters moved to easy. It was a used set and had probably been run in and out a few to many times. I installed NOS ones on the Road Runner so they are nice and tight.


Shane Kelley

I do have the motor just about ready to fire. I changed alternator brackets and of course it interferes with the fuel line. So I need to bend up a new one and it should be ready to go. As most of you know I was wanting to do something different on the valve covers. Well that turned into a huge PITA so I said the hell with it and just bolted them up as is. I am happy with the way they look and the breather grommet fits correctly. That was always a iffy thing on the cast MP covers.

Still in the process of powder coating my air cleaner wrinkle black. Base turned out good but the lid didn't. Of course. So round 2 for it. This wrinkle powder coat is a little tricky to get the results I like.

Went with a textured black on the billet alternator brackets. I always hated how the factory lower factory adjustment bracket would get chewed up making adjustments. This set up with the turn buckle fixed that issue. Did the same treatment on my pulleys.   


nsmall

You are so detail oriented.  I love that about you.  I truly enjoy looking at your work.  You are are very talented.   :bradsthumb:

Shane Kelley

Quote from: nsmall on March 19, 2018, 09:25:24 PM
You are so detail oriented.  I love that about you.  I truly enjoy looking at your work.  You are are very talented.   :bradsthumb:
Thank you!   I try. 

Well motor is all buttoned up and running. Got the air cleaner all done and I'm very please with the wrinkle powder coat. Of course the new alternator bracket was in the way of my fuel line. So I got to make another one of those. Now I just need the roads to dry up and see how she runs.

Chryco Psycho

Looks great & I am sure it will run as good as it looks !!  :cooldance:

larry4406

That alternator bracket is sweet!  Is that home brewed or aftermarket?