383 stroker questions

[Ewing]

Hi – I am considering getting a stroker kit and looking to clarify a few things before I commit. Hoping you guys have the answers! Car is a 1970 Cuda 383 4 speed

- The car is relatively new to me, but sold as numbers matching engine and tranny (I was buying this car matching or not). If I stroke it to 496 does this get rid of the intrinsic value associated with being a numbers matching car, even though it's the same block? It already had a cam done and has aluminum intake. So not perfectly original as it is.
- If I do this do I need to upgrade the rear end? Currently 8 ¾. This is strictly for street use. Could I get away with existing rear end?
- Any ideas how stroker kits interact with cams? Mine was described by the seller as a mild cam. Am I on the hook for a new cam as well?

Thanks much!!

Andrew

[1 Wild R/T]

The block is still the stock block... Strokers eat up duration so your mild cam will be tame....  Strokers also eat up cylinder head flow so if you want it to make power past 4000 rpm heads are on the list.....

8.75 will live unless you have a 4spd & sticky tires.....

Honestly if I were going to build a stroker I'd set the numbers engine aside & grab a 400 block...

bigger bores means the heads have more room...  If it does grenade the original block doesn't get hurt..... 

If I were building it.... 400 block, Stealth heads, 512 CI, roller in the 244-250 @.050 range.. Get your wallet out cause there will be allot of incidentals....

[RUNCHARGER]

I love strokers and they save you money. Instead of buying a more speed transmission (either manual or automatic) you can run a rear axle ratio that likes the highway and yet with the torque of the stroker it will still be punchy on the lowend. If it was me, I don't like storing extra parts and taking up garage space so I would stroke the original engine.
The first stroker I came across was a 68 Coronet with a 500 in it. The car had 3.23 gears, he drove it 300 miles to the track, bolted slicks on and ran some low 11's. Then bolted the streets back on and drove it home. The car looked stock except for headers and exhaust too.

[jimynick]

I'd do what Wild said. There's no shortage of 383 blocks, but then if you're going to bore it anyways, why not just go the 440 Source stroker kit route and use an available 440 block while kicking the #'s 383 block under the bench? 440 parts are also more common and not more expensive than 383 stuff. Just my 

[Chryco Psycho]

496 ci in a 383 block is too much , you are building a race engine , the oil ring will be over the wrist pin & the piston becomes too short , 383/ 432 is a great combo , I would not use the #s block , 400 / 451 is a better combo & is a monster ,
No matter what stroker combo you build you need a pkg , cam has to be tailored to the combo for best results

[Ewing]

Right on guys, thanks for the guidance! Obviously lots to consider.

[1 Wild R/T]

I love strokers and they save you money. Instead of buying a more speed transmission (either manual or automatic) you can run a rear axle ratio that likes the highway and yet with the torque of the stroker it will still be punchy on the lowend. If it was me, I don't like storing extra parts and taking up garage space so I would stroke the original engine.
The first stroker I came across was a 68 Coronet with a 500 in it. The car had 3.23 gears, he drove it 300 miles to the track, bolted slicks on and ran some low 11's. Then bolted the streets back on and drove it home. The car looked stock except for headers and exhaust too.

Since I've had a shop since 1990 I don't have an issue storing the original engine.... With a stroker, particularly if built with heads that limit power & RPM chances are building the original engine is ok.... My preference to build a different engine dates back to the days when 95% of of the guys had stock stroke stuff that got beaten pretty hard to get anywhere close to the power that a stroker can produce pretty easily....

[Shane Kelley]

I like that 383/496 it's a real torque monster. Like was said above. Gears are not as critical because the big motor doesn't care. Minimal block modifications to make it work. Just some small notches on the bottom of the cylinders to clear the heads of the rod bolts and some massaging of the oil pick up tube to clear the rod.

Here's a little ride with the 496 backed up with a 4 speed and 3.55's.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/gallery/;sa=view;id=709

[RUNCHARGER]

I want to see all these broken blocks everyone tells me about. You know, let your original block rust while you run the wrong one in the car just in case the crank breaks in 10 pieces and parts go out the side even denting your inner fenders and lacerating the front tires.

[Todd489]

I have a 383/496 stroker, built 5 years ago! Have over 20,000 miles on it now, and not easy miles either, I beat the hell out of it!!! And plenty of Dyno thrashing too!! It makes 580 hp and 615 tq,  very reliable motor, I will take this car anywere, I say go for it, the tq is awesome, I would be glad to answer any questions about this build!!