392 Hemi Swap

[303 Mopar]

My '70 Barracuda is a non-numbers 318 car that came with a 340 6-barrel when I bought it.  I loved the "wow" factor of the 6-barrel that went with the AAR clone theme of my car, but it just wasn't fast enough for me plus being in Denver at altitude I was always having to mess with the carbs and could never get it running quite right. 

When I saw Mopar announce the new 392 Hemi crate engine with a wire harness specifically for older Mopars I knew it was for me.  I immediately began talking to @MoparDave at Roseville and ordering up the parts I needed.  However, I learned many things and lessons about doing this swap and wanted to help anyone who is considering this in their e-body.

This engine swap will require fabrication and modification to the firewall and engine bay of your e-body. You will need a good supply of tools, fabrication skills, and the use of a lift helps A LOT.  This is also a very expensive engine swap, so budget accordingly and expect the unexpected.

Parts List you will need
- 2016 392 Hemi crate engine
    SRT® 6.4L HEMI engine. With 485 horsepower and 475 lb.-ft. of torque, this complete engine assembly includes water pump, fly wheel and clutch, front sump oil pan, intake manifold with throttle body, fuel injectors and coil packs.
      FEATURES:
         • 392 cu. in.
         • 103.9mm Bore
         • 94.6mm Stroke
         • Cast Iron Block with 4-Bolt Powder Metal Caps
         • Forged Steel Crank Material
         • Powdered Metal, Floating Pin Connecting Rods
         • Hypereutectic Aluminum Piston Material
         • Nodular Iron Camshaft
         • Aluminum, Hemispherical Chamber Cylinder Heads
         • 54.3mm Intake Valve Size
         • 42mm Exhaust Valve Size
         • 10.9:1 Compression Ratio
         • 6,400 Peak RPM

- 392 Hemi engine covers (they do not come with the crate engine, #5038544AE and #5038543AE)
- Mopar Performance Wiring harnesses #7707245AB
- TTI headers #1223713

For a 727/518 automatic
- Flexplate (#P5153753) and 8 bolts (#6503465)
- Full manual valve body (#TAC-17875XA for forward pattern) for 727 and a different valve body system for engaging a OD for a 518
- Optional flexible transmission dipstick (#LOK-1211447). We were able to bend and adapt the stock dipstick to fit.

- 20' of positive 2 gauge cable to move the battery to the trunk
- Bouchilion Performance Radiator (#9D-19523-20) with 1 of their hoses (#20609G) and the lower hose for a E-Body small block engine, and an overflow tank (#S6074X).
- Milodon 31000 center sump pan, #18341 pick-up tube for 2009-later 392 Hemi's, and # 85025 short bolts for the pan
DO NOT buy the Mopar rear sump pan kit

- In-tank fuel injection pump, tank, 3/8" fuel hose, and filter regulator with return (http://www.tanksinc.com)
Fuel rail 
- 6 AN 90 degree 3/8" fitting that clips onto the fuel rail and fits under the engine cover, -6 AN high pressure hose, -6 AN straight fitting that connects to fitting provided by tanks inc
- Mopar Performance engine front drive system
- Power steering pump #77072448 and a remote reservoir, alternator #77072445, and ngine mounts (Shumaker #BCE57H or TTI)
- Block off plate, a remote oil filter base and high pressure hoses with fittings
DO NOT buy the Mopar 45 degree oil filter adapter as it will not fit on a k-member

- Two 5/8" hoses with a 90 degree elbow for your heater hoses
- Cold Air Intake aluminum tubing with cone filter, bands and silicone hose coupling, ¾" nipple or  a ¾" hose bolt-through fitting for the clean air intake for the pcv system

[303 Mopar]

Installation Instructions

- Order a new 392 Hemi.  When it arrives, uncrate the new engine and remove exhaust manifolds, clutch, flex plate and if you are going with an automatic you will need to cut out the pilot bushing  (3 cuts) as this is near impossible to pull out.  You may be able to remove the pilot bushing through compression by packing it with grease and hammer on the pilot shaft but you will need a spare pilot shaft. Remove the oil pan and dipstick.  If you want to use the stock dipstick in the block, it may be possible to re-bend and re-mark to fit around the headers. Mount the engine on an engine stand for most of the install steps below.  DO NOT mount the engine on the k-member until you are ready to bolt up the transmission. Caution engine as delivered was full of oil.




- Drop K frame and remove engine and transmission – this is the easiest step of the swap.




- For an automatic, buy and install a new flexplate (#P5153753) and 8 bolts (#6503465). Be sure to mark the bolt pattern so the holes line up with the offset bolt pattern by marking one of the bolt holes so it lines up properly.  You will also need a full manual valve body (#TAC-17875XA for forward pattern) if you are going to run the drive-by-wire pedal with a 727, otherwise buy the cable throttle body to run with your stock pedal.  You will also need a flexible transmission dipstick (#LOK-1211447) or bend the stock dipstick to fit.





- You will need to relocate your battery to the trunk (buy 20' of positive 2 gauge cable) to clear the air intake.  We used the 1970 starter system connected directly to the battery and mounted on the left side of the block, not the computer starter system. The wire harness is set up for the starter to be on the right side of the engine, so you will need to un-tape the harness and re-direct the wiring to reach the left side if you are going to mount your starter on the left side.  Also on the wire harness you can cut off and seal the starter cable connection because you will connect the positive battery cable directly, along with the starter connect for the battery on the wire harness to the starter.





- You will need a center sump pump pan and pick up tube and short bolts as the oil pan is stamped steel and thicker than new pan (Milodon 31000 pan, 18341 pick-up for 2009-later 392 Hemi's, and 85025 short bolts) and install. Reposition the stud from the number 1 main cap and position to number 3, swapping the bolt from number 3 to number 1 main cap. You can use the factory windage tray and gasket, and drill two new holes in the right and left rear corners.  The short bolts may bottom out on the block, so you will need to add 1-2 washers. DO NOT buy the Mopar or rear sump oil pan kit as it will hit the steering linkage. 





- Buy and install in-tank fuel injection pump, tank, 3/8" fuel hose, and filter regulator with return from www.tanksinc.com.  I mounted the regulator filter on the shock cross-member towards left side and drilled two 1" holes through cross-member for fuel line clearance.  Route fuel hose along left side brake line or use a 3/8" hard line but you will need to switch the fuel rail from left to right side of the block.  Install a 16 gauge hot wire from engine to tank and connect to fuel pump.  For 1970, you should have a vented fuel cap but for '71-74 you will need to run a vent line.







- Buy and install new 90 degree fitting and high pressure hose on the fuel rail.  You will need a 90 degree 3/8" fitting to fit under the engine covers.  I used a -6 AN 90 degree 3/8" fitting that clips onto the fuel rail, -6 AN high pressure hose, -6 AN straight fitting to connect with tanks inc fuel hose. or connect to a hard line.




- Buy and install the engine front drive system including the power steering pump #77072448 and a remote reservoir, alternator #77072445, and engine mounts (Shumaker #BCE57H or TTI has them) with a .120 shim on the left mount to clear headers which may require dye grinding the k-member bolt hole to fit.  Alternator bolts on easy but will require you to trim the lip near the frame rail on the right side of the engine bay to fit. 





- The power steering pump will need a remote reservoir or a small square attached to allow the cold air intake to clear, and you will need a custom made power steering pump pressure hose with fittings to attach to the steering gear box.  You will also need a 3/8" hose to attach steering box to the reservoir, and a 3/4" return hose to attach the reservoir to the pump. 






- Buy and install wiring harnesses #7707245AB.  This includes the drive by wire pedal which will need to be modified to fit onto the firewall if you want to use.  I modified the factory pedal by cutting out all the "webbing", slightly bending a pedal from a GM SUV (you can use any pedal with a steel shaft with a slight bend), and using two bolts through the factory pedal and the GM pedal.  You can also convert to cable throttle body and use your factory pedal. 









- Install wiring, mount the ECM horizontally on the right side of the firewall above the heater core, and mount the distribution block on the right inner fender panel near the horns.  NOTE the factory numbers on the stickers on the back of the ECM as these are needed if you ever need to reference what harness/ECM you have or want to custom tune the engine.  The wiring harness can be installed entirely before installing the engine.  The factory lighting, start system and temp sensor with sending unit stays.  You will need to tie in factory power sources (battery cable and power feed through the firewall incorporated in new wiring harness). 






- Cut a 1 3/4-2" hole in the firewall near the factory fuse block to feed the specific part of the new wiring harness inside and trim provided grommet on harness to fit hole.  Plug in the drive by wire pedal, connect ignition power relay, attach ground wires, and mount power buss.  You will use the factory neutral switch and start system so this will eliminate two wires on the new harness.




- Buy and install two 5/8" hoses with a 90 degree elbow for your heater hoses on the back of the engine.  If you are running power brakes, you will need the brake vacuum hose to install on the back of the engine. Be sure to install these hoses BEFORE you install the engine as it is a very tight fit between the engine and the firewall.





- Buy and install TTI headers #1223713. The torsion bar clearance on the right side may not be adequate and you will need to dent a tube.





- Mount the 392 Hemi engine to the k-frame, bolt up the transmission and if you are using a 727 auto, you will need to fabricate new transmission cooler lines hugging the transmission and block just above the oil pan and run them long enough to reach the front of the radiator support. I was able to bend the factory oil tube and dipstick to fit between the headers.




- Install engine and trans on the k-member into the E-body from the bottom. Reattach front suspension and brake lines.




- Connect wires for fuel pump and fans to the ECM distribution block.  Connect the ground wires in the harness, and the main ground cable from the block to the frame or desired location (I used a bolt on the horns).





- Buy and install radiator made for a 392 Hemi. Note that the inlet and outlet for the engine are both on the passenger side.  I ordered a Griffin through Bouchilion Performance (#9D-19523-20) with 1 of their hoses (20609G) and the lower hose for a E-Body small block engine.  You will also need to buy and install an overflow tank (#S6074X).




- Install the remote oil filter on the k-member of desired location.  Install the remote power steering reservoir on the left side of the inner fender near where the battery used to be and attach hoses to the power steering pump.






- Buy and install 392 Hemi engine covers at the end (they do not come with the crate engine, #5038544AE and #5038543AE).  The left cover is a tight fit with a 2-speed wiper motor.




- Buy and modify Cold Air Intake aluminum tubing with cone filter, bands and silicone hose coupling.  The tube will need a hole with grommet for the air temp sensor, and a hole for the cleaner air intake supply hose, you will need to aluminum weld a nipple on or buy a ¾" hose bolt-through fitting.  You will also need to fabricate a bracket to support the tube.





- Fill the engine will oil, radiator with coolant, power steering fluid in the reservoir, transmission with fluid, and tank with 91 or above fuel.  The engine may not fire on the first attempt.  Also, the 392 is known to run between 220-228 degrees so your fans may not kick on until 228 degrees.

[MoparDave]

Awesome Job their Dan.

[Cuda Cody]

Really want to do this to a 70 challenger.   Thank you so much for sharing!     Nice job!!

[HP_Cuda]

Very cool Dan

But you know you'll have to update this thread soon to cover the blower addition.

[Cuda Cody]

I never get tired of hearing that YouTube video!!!!   Nice job man.

[Katfish]

Super write up, any chance you have a detailed breakdown of the budget?

[anlauto]

I want to do this

[303 Mopar]

I hate adding up the total cost on any work I do for my cars   

But, PM me and I can give you some numbers.

[Timbbuc2]

Good job and thanks for posting

[72hemi]

Thanks for the thorough write up. I saw this setup at SEMA last year. It's awesome to finally have this computer/harness setup from Mopar. I would love to build a car around this package one day.

[Brads70]

As always, beautiful workmanship Dan!    Love both of your cars! 

[Marc70challenger]

That's awesome!

Reading threads like this just makes trying to land on a decision for the 65 motor more and more difficult.     

[ec_co]

awesome write up Dan! I've always greatly admired your AAR clone, it is exactly what I would want to do to mine (B5 AAR/392 swap)

[303 Mopar]

awesome write up Dan! I've always greatly admired your AAR clone, it is exactly what I would want to do to mine (B5 AAR/392 swap)

We need to get together this spring/summer and go for a ride.