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Clutch temperament

Started by Bluemonster71RT, June 09, 2017, 03:40:57 PM

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Bluemonster71RT

Quote from: Cuda Cody on June 10, 2017, 07:50:58 AM
Are you sure the engine is running correctly?  Big cams will change the way an engine drives.

As sure as I can be anyway. If I knew exactly what cam I have I'd have some better tuning ideas.   I have no doubt that I have a clutch problem. Shouldn't have to adjust the clutch as soon as I have either. Its gotta be slipping a lot and burning up. I put on about 2700mi since I got it back on the road and twice I have adjusted the clutch because it would grind into reverse and was stiff going into the forward gears.

Cuda Cody

Adjusting the linkage rods would not have much to do with the clutch.  Unless the clutch is worn and and you're adjusting the throw of the pedal to try and get more pressure on it? :notsure:

Quote from: Bluemonster71RT on June 10, 2017, 01:31:36 PM
Quote from: Cuda Cody on June 10, 2017, 07:50:58 AM
Are you sure the engine is running correctly?  Big cams will change the way an engine drives.

As sure as I can be anyway. If I knew exactly what cam I have I'd have some better tuning ideas.   I have no doubt that I have a clutch problem. Shouldn't have to adjust the clutch as soon as I have either. Its gotta be slipping a lot and burning up. I put on about 2700mi since I got it back on the road and twice I have adjusted the clutch because it would grind into reverse and was stiff going into the forward gears.

Chryco Psycho

Sounds like the clutch is going away fast


Bluemonster71RT

Quote from: Cuda Cody on June 10, 2017, 03:01:13 PM
Adjusting the linkage rods would not have much to do with the clutch.  Unless the clutch is worn and and you're adjusting the throw of the pedal to try and get more pressure on it? :notsure:

Quote from: Bluemonster71RT on June 10, 2017, 01:31:36 PM
Quote from: Cuda Cody on June 10, 2017, 07:50:58 AM
Are you sure the engine is running correctly?  Big cams will change the way an engine drives.

As sure as I can be anyway. If I knew exactly what cam I have I'd have some better tuning ideas.   I have no doubt that I have a clutch problem. Shouldn't have to adjust the clutch as soon as I have either. Its gotta be slipping a lot and burning up. I put on about 2700mi since I got it back on the road and twice I have adjusted the clutch because it would grind into reverse and was stiff going into the forward gears.
Nope not the rods. The fork adjustment nuts for more pressure. Once I do that it shifts smooth as silk for a little while.           Yes it is going fast. In fact I want to do this swap before the car strands me. 

RUNCHARGER

Yup: Brewers or Passon stock them, they'll ship a setup right out to you. I'm not a fan of being stranded either.
Sheldon

Bluemonster71RT

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on June 09, 2017, 07:56:00 PM
The cam / low vacuum will have a big effect on the launch .
They only use the 10.5 "in slant 6 & 318 cars , it is not just 1/2" extra but it is at the outer edge so 1/2" away from the center is a lot more leverage & significantly more surface area , bottom line you really need to install a better clutch soon .

If they only used 10.5 in slant 6 and 318 cars then why are almost all the offerings within my searching all 10.5 for 130 Big block? Roseville only offer 10.5 and Brewers offer 10.5 and 11 inch(143 tooth) sets and only 1 10.95(Listed as 10.9)set.
Seems McLeod is not carrying the bb plates anymore. They don't even come up in the search and they are only showing 11 inch sets for 23 spline.

I did find a 10.95 bb long from a place called jays racing but its only the plate. Also it says that it needs counter weight assist kit. Whats that? 
This feels like the same hole I was digging when I was looking for the clutch the first time around.
Everyone offers Ram clutches with  bb 10.95 but I have had 1 bad experience with them and seems many say they are junk but everyone offers them.     

RUNCHARGER

Just phone Passon's or Brewer's. They will hook you up. It sounds funny about the listings but they will have what you need in stock and know exactly what you are talking about.
Sheldon


Bluemonster71RT

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on June 11, 2017, 12:55:56 PM
Just phone Passon's or Brewer's. They will hook you up. It sounds funny about the listings but they will have what you need in stock and know exactly what you are talking about.

Was just chatting with someone at Brewers. The kit they have was put together by him and should be good up to 550hp. I think thats more than I have so now just going to verify 130 tooth on my flywheel. 90% sure thats what it was but I am awful with remembering numbers. I should right these things down. :dunno: I was 99% sure up until I saw a 143 tooth for the 383.  (Edit: found my post from 3 years ago. Seems I wrote it in digital 130 it is)

Chryco Psycho

I have not seen a 10.5" disc used with a 143 tooth flywheel but the disc would fit .

Bluemonster71RT

Got as far as getting the trans out so far. 1st thing I saw was that the input shaft seal is/was leaking. It's damp on the face but kinda grimy but not a lot. Could be disc dust in it making it that way though. 2nd thing I noticed was that the throw out bearing feels like its no good. Thats all I could tell for now except one last thing that caught my eye looking through the bell was that the end of the crank just before where the pilot bushing goes, (I think its where if the torque convert nose would be if it were and auto) is scorn in there. I can't remember if it was like that before or not but also couldn't think of anything that could do that either.

I probably wont be able to get back at it until Monday. I'm itching to see what the disc looks like and also it the rear main is causing the oil dripping from the back of the pan area. But the whole pan is covered with a sheen and the drain plug just wont seal. Truth be told soon. Please stand by. 

Chryco Psycho



Bluemonster71RT

Got it all apart and here is what I found. A few good things and a few  :dunno:s 
It appears that the rear main is not leaking and looks more like the back of or actually the entire oil pan is the cause of my drip woes. That and a valve cover mishap. The flywheel, disc and plate were dry. And actually the disc doesn't look too bad but there was an awful lot of dust in there. The flywheel now has a lot of cracks in it. I'm guessing that for some reason the disc was not being clamped in hard enough. I'll post some pics then explain the clutch issues I had from the install and maybe some of you can help me figure out whats going wrong here.

Bluemonster71RT

Flywheel and disc. you can see the cracks pretty good. Disc looks to be ok

Bluemonster71RT

Plate surface looks ok. There are what seems to be uneven wear on the fingers from the throw out bearing.

Bluemonster71RT

But this one interests me a little. Looks like there was contact from the clutch at and the inside of the fingers. I would suppose that shouldn't be.