Main Menu

Clutch temperament

Started by Bluemonster71RT, June 09, 2017, 03:40:57 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 7 Guests are viewing this topic.

Bluemonster71RT

So the first thing that happened when I did the install was that I couldn't get the clutch to engage because I didn't have enough movement on the fork. In fact it was leaning more towards the back of the car and from what I have read was that it should be leaning more towards the engine. I actually had to shave a little of the back of the scatter shield to get some more throw out of it. It did turn out by attempting to move the car, something happened and I got a little more movement on the fork and the wheels wouldn't spin on stands while the clutch was in. However I still needed more adjustment so I got an A-body rod and thats how I have been driving it lately. All the parts were the same as when they came off the car 15 years ago or were replacements that matched up. So unless something happend to the PP while sitting for all those years I am not sure what went wrong or how to correct it at this point.   

Chryco Psycho

Ok so it looks like you have a 10.95 3 finger B&B pressure plate in there , is the disc smaller ?
Both the flywheel & pressure plate need to be surfaced or replaced depending how deep the cracks go , you can see the hot spots in the surface on the pressure plate
so the question is why is the pressure plate not clamping the disc properly is the fork hitting the blastshield  towards the front so it will not release fully , so there should be no pressure on the fork at all with the clutch engaged it should be loose with extra fee play . The pressure plate could be adjusted incorrectly to, the 3 lock bolts on the finger pivots could be set too high so it will not apply pressure to the disc causing it to slip

Bluemonster71RT

It is a 10.95 pressure plate but that is a 10.5 disc. The fork was not hitting anything towards the front of the bell at any time. It did hit that back as I explained when the pedal was pressed in but stopped doing that after first test drive. Looking at the adjustment nuts on the pressure plate I can see that on one of them the it has been backed off and the staked marks don't line up. I don't know if it was adjusted that way or got loose somehow. Other than that I don't know why it was not clamping. Another question is should I get a longer throw out bearing for proper fork position?  Though it is the same size as the old one with the same setup (all I changed was a new disc and a replacement bearing)which had no issues. Is the best option just to get new everything and try again?


Chryco Psycho

I have never seena  longer throw out brg But it could be pressed off shimmed & a new brg installed which would lengthen it  .
The damage to the levers is odd to like it was depressing then too far to the point where it hit the clutch hub .
new set up may be the best solution

Shane Kelley

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on June 20, 2017, 10:06:38 PM
I have never seena  longer throw out brg But it could be pressed off shimmed & a new brg installed which would lengthen it  .
The damage to the levers is odd to like it was depressing then too far to the point where it hit the clutch hub .
new set up may be the best solution
:iagree: Time for a whole new complete matched set up. That's not something anybody wants to keep dealing with. I recommend calling Brewers Performance and tell them what you have and they will tell you what you need. I consider them some of the most knowledgeable when it comes to Mopar manual transmissions. Great people to deal with.

Bluemonster71RT

Well, apparently McLeod had stopped making the borg and beck pressure plate at least for the 10.95. I didn't ask about the 11 inch but it sounded like that is done too. So if you needed or wanted one from McLeod and you know who has one, you should probably order it. This info is from Passion Performance.  However Brewers had a kit. I ordered it. Hopefully it is still a borg and beck like it says.

HP_Cuda


Just for giggles what size bell housing are you using?

Most likely mismatched parts installed off kilter.
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200


Chryco Psycho

Wow , what about the B&B Long version ? They were the only ones making those .
I wonder why they stopped making them , I guess not enough sales but with all the 4 sod conversions you would think there would be a demand .
You could try Ram

Bluemonster71RT

Quote from: HP_Cuda on June 22, 2017, 10:12:33 AM

Just for giggles what size bell housing are you using?

Most likely mismatched parts installed off kilter.

Its a Lakewood scatter shield. The parts were the same ones I had in the car before it came apart except for the TObearing and disc. However the pp sat out for 12-13 years. It could of got messed with I suppose.

HP_Cuda

Did you have to clearance the FW to get the Lakewood to fit?

I have one and I'm thinking of using it on another project.
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200

Bluemonster71RT

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on June 22, 2017, 11:39:12 AM
Wow , what about the B&B Long version ? They were the only ones making those .
I wonder why they stopped making them , I guess not enough sales but with all the 4 sod conversions you would think there would be a demand .
You could try Ram

I was told that they said they couldn't get good enough quality steel for the fingers.  :dunno: It's probably more expensive to make over the diaphragm style. But Passion is taking the listing off their web page and must be why they are not listed on McLeod's page. Also none in Summit or Jeggs. YO and Classic now have RAM only I think for borg and beck.
I have heard more bad about RAM than good. So though it was a lot more money I did get the B&B McLeod set from Brewers.   


Chryco Psycho

That is bad news , McLeods owner is a Mopar guy too .

Bluemonster71RT

#42
I read on another site that because of the 1/8" engine plate of the Lakewood bell, it throws everything else off by an 1/8". Though it says to just remove the fork pivot from the stock bell and put it in the Lakewood one #15330.  That may be why the fork was in the wrong position and cause the loss of mechanical advantage and also why I had to get a the longer A body rod to get enough adjustment. Does this make sense and or has anyone done the same? Maybe it will all work correctly with all the new parts I have but I just don't want to have to take it all down again.  Also Chryco, McLeod makes an adjustable length throw out bearing.



(I edited my post. I read the wrong instruction sheet which made the multiple fork pivots invalid.)

Chryco Psycho


HP_Cuda


Makes sense to me and that's why I asked what bellhousing you were using.
1970 Cuda Yellow 440 4 speed (Sold)
1970 Cuda clone 440 4 speed FJ5
1975 Dodge Power Wagon W200