EFI Fitech

[7212Mopar]

@RCman ,
Did you install your EFI this WE
finally what 12v did you use?
Thanks

I did not, ran into an issue getting the plug out of the water pump housing (that's been there for 40 years) which has spiraled into me buying more parts. 
I did get it on the car but not wired yet.

What do you think about this?

That's exactly what I am planning on doing at the ballast side. This is the diode I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-19116975

I am still running points for now. The plan is to get it running and then this winter swap over the ignition stuff. I'm trying not to create to many "well it could be this" kind of situations if I run into issues getting the EFI going; so trying to keep as much the same for now as possible.

Follow up on this; I got it running using the method above (minus the relay I didn't use that) with the diode I linked.
Works well.

RCman, I am having difficulties understanding the diagram with the diode and the Fitech wiring schematic on page 2 of this post. The diode diagram shows a relay for the battery feed but you did it without. Are you connecting the diode out to the white wire or the blue wire of the 6 pin connector shown in the Fitech wiring schematic? I am terrible with electrical wiring.

[RCman]

I can't speak to the FiTech but if it uses the same single wire setup that the Holley Sniper uses the Diode goes on the brown wire (on the car) and is oriented so that electricity can't flow back on the wire but can flow from the brown to the blue & EFI connection (whatever color that is, Holley EFI is pink).

Attached is a photo of the little simple 'harness' I made up. You can see the blue wire gets split at the factory connection one goes to the open spade terminal (which connects to the EFI switched power) and the other to the ballast resistor. The brown wire from the bottom (black in my case) also gets split and one goes to the ballast to function like normal. The other side of the split from the brown runs to the diode and then to the EFI connection. However the diode is positioned so that the electricity can't flow from that EFI connection back down the brown and thus stopping bypassing of the ballast resistor and backfeeding that circuit.

Did that help?

[7212Mopar]

Thanks RCman. I am thinking then it probably should go to the white switch wire shown in the Fitech diagram on page 2 of the post.

I have a brand new Quick Fuel carb to used to restart the engine when ready and I don't have EFI yet. I am looking and want to understand especially wiring before committing. I spoke with a few owners in car shows and all of them love the EFI system.

[roadrunninmark]

Tagging for reference..

[YellowThumper]

Interest in this as well for another project looming.

[Dakota]

My  :

I have the Fitech GoStreet that's rated up to 400HP fed by a Tank Inc internal pump for my stock 340, along with a MSD 6AL box.  After 500 miles, all good so far.

At the risk of repeating myself from earlier posts, make sure you have a thermostat rated for 180 degrees F or higher as the FITech self-learning feature doesn't start working until the coolant temp exceeds 170.   

The FiTech unit also needs to prime by running the fuel pump for several seconds (key "on") before you hit "start". If you stall a manual, those extra seconds will add to the wonderful public shaming that goes with it.   

On my 340, I ended buying a pigtail to extend the FiTech coolant temp sensor wiring so I could thread the sensor into one of the holes normally used for a block drain plug.   The stock a/c compressor got in the way of any connections around the thermostat housing that would've made for a simpler wiring run.

With FiTech, or any other add-on EFI system for that matter, give some serious thought to adding a inertia switch that shuts the fuel pump off if your car gets in an accident so you don't end up pumping fuel into a bad situation.   There is also a safety switch available that replaces the oil pressure sending unit which can be used to shut off the fuel pump off based on low oil pressure (other than when the engine is cranking) as a way to detect an engine shutdown.  The oil pressure switch can't be used with FiTech because of the priming cycle mentioned above. The FiTech unit will cut off the fuel pump if the engine stops as long as the FiTech fuel pump signal wire is used to trigger the fuel pump relay.    I have the inertia switch in-line with the fuel pump signal wire.  I also have a little jumper to bypass the inertia switch in case it started tripping unnecessarily - no problem with that so far. 

Ok.   This was more like a quarter's worth of commentary but hopefully it will help someone avoid the little rocks I tripped over.